GNG big block kit

TOLM

1 W
Joined
Jul 1, 2018
Messages
59
First ride today. This thing fell apart. I think i am misding the outer "side" (could not find it after it fell off)

Also noticed zero grease of any sort inside

Am i being super lucky or this is normal/expected for gng cyclone?

 
https://lunacycle.com/replacement-cyclone-13t-freewheel-with-adapter/

Is this what i am looking for?

Thanks
 
hi all,
my C-3000 have just about 300 miles and make a mechanical noise ... but work normaly.
I have pull out gearings and the noise still present.

it's seem that the front motor bearing not have play.
Anyone have this issue ?
20190610.jpg
 
zekill said:
hi all,
my C-3000 have just about 300 miles and make a mechanical noise ... but work normaly.
I have pull out gearings and the noise still present.

it's seem that the front motor bearing not have play.
Anyone have this issue ?
20190610.jpg

There have been some cases of hall/phase cables coming loose, rubbing, and eventually causing a short. To check that, you'll need to open up the other side with the screws on the cap there.
 
TOLM said:
First ride today. This thing fell apart. I think i am misding the outer "side" (could not find it after it fell off)

Also noticed zero grease of any sort inside

Am i being super lucky or this is normal/expected for gng cyclone?


Received the part from gng. I was however unable to remove the old freewheel casing from the adapter. Had to use the grinding tool

 
zekill said:
thank for reply.
i have open the motor, all is in place and dry.
I seem that the rear bearing (6201) is fautly.
20190611.jpg

20190612.jpg
so finally, it's the rear motor bearing that doing noise, the front loose grease too.
I change there with branded gearing and no noise.
I thing to changing the five reductor gearings too ...
 


My motor keeps shutting off when the battery (52 volt nominal) is still reading around 54 volts.. Sounds like a.controller issue i guess ? Battery is a new Luna wolf 2. The controller says 48-52 volts on it.

 
Got a response from gng. Wppwrently the 48-74v controller was. Intended for 60v batteries

Any one has a clue what is meant by " plug in the self learning wire"? Right now this wire is not used at all. ?

Thanks

*********

Dear Pavel,

I see what happen. Just asked the controller factory and they have set the low voltage cut off to your controller and we would not have that in next batch.
The controller self detected the battery to be 60V, and thus set the low voltage cut off at 54.4V.

There is a way to solve this problem:
please find a 48V battery (or if you can discharge your current battery to be lower than 52V)
plug in the self learning wire again.
The motor will set the low voltage cut off base on 48V battery.
Unplug the self learning wire.
The controller will be able to use under 54.4V.
 
More guidance:

Dear Pavel,

Unfortunately the controller only recognize 48,60,72V 3 types battery. So the only way is to let it think that you are using the 48V. The 52V battery when fully discharged should be around 46/47V, you may use a discharged 52V battery to let the controller think that you are using the 48V battery,

Best regards,
Jon
 
TOLM said:
More guidance:

Dear Pavel,

Unfortunately the controller only recognize 48,60,72V 3 types battery. So the only way is to let it think that you are using the 48V. The 52V battery when fully discharged should be around 46/47V, you may use a discharged 52V battery to let the controller think that you are using the 48V battery,

Best regards,
Jon
The controller will be able to use under 54.4V.

That's the answer, don't charge to above 54v. Good idea anyway for longevity.
 
zekill said:
zekill said:
thank for reply.
i have open the motor, all is in place and dry.
I seem that the rear bearing (6201) is fautly.
20190611.jpg

20190612.jpg
so finally, it's the rear motor bearing that doing noise, the front loose grease too.
I change there with branded gearing and no noise.
I thing to changing the five reductor gearings too ...

Would you happen to know the bearing sizes? and any recommendations on ordering a replacement set in advance?
 
1) Looks like the controller is not working as it should, don't know if the factory that makes the controller for GNG made a mistake on programming , or , if the Fets / Caps / and or Shunts are not good enough for a Real 72 volt controller .
A real 72 volt controller should have at least 90v or 100 v caps .

Your controller should not have a LVC of 54.4 volts . for a 14s battery pack , otherwise known as a 52 volt battery pack , an LVC of 54.4 volts is only letting the battery discharge to 3.89 v per cell. You will not get the range you should get from that . On my hub motor bike I adjust the Cycle Analyst to have a LVC of 51 volts . I forgot exactly the % at that voltage , somewhere around 10 % or 15% left in the battery pack .

I also do not understand what " self learning wire " is ... Howard said it is the white or yellow wires on the controller.
I think there is something lost in the translation from Chinese to English .

on my Infineon clone controllers the white wire when plugged together allows the controller / motor to regen.

Does the Cyclone / GNG 3000 watt mid drive have the ability to use regen ? if not then unplug the white wires , and have nothing plugged into them.


B.T.W. I just got mine this week, I did not order it with a controller since I have a few new controllers sitting around.
But I am going to have to find the Shunt Value of my controller and its voltage ( I know it is at least a 48/52 v capable controller ) and I will have to cut off the HiGo connector from the controller and also put some connectors on the Phase Wires of the 3000w motor .
I really do not know why GNG does not use the Standard 4mm bullet female connectors on the motor phase wires like most every other motor does .
4mm female bullet connectors on the motor side makes connecting up a controller much easier and cleaner !

Perhaps we all , including people who want to buy the new 2019 3000 watt motor let GNG ( Jon/Howard ) know that we want 4mm female bullet connectors on the motor .




TOLM said:
Got a response from gng. Wppwrently the 48-74v controller was. Intended for 60v batteries

Any one has a clue what is meant by " plug in the self learning wire"? Right now this wire is not used at all. ?

Thanks

*********

Dear Pavel,

I see what happen. Just asked the controller factory and they have set the low voltage cut off to your controller and we would not have that in next batch.
The controller self detected the battery to be 60V, and thus set the low voltage cut off at 54.4V.

There is a way to solve this problem:
please find a 48V battery (or if you can discharge your current battery to be lower than 52V)
plug in the self learning wire again.
The motor will set the low voltage cut off base on 48V battery.
Unplug the self learning wire.
The controller will be able to use under 54.4V.
 
electric_nz said:
zekill said:
zekill said:
thank for reply.
i have open the motor, all is in place and dry.
I seem that the rear bearing (6201) is fautly.
20190611.jpg

20190612.jpg
so finally, it's the rear motor bearing that doing noise, the front loose grease too.
I change there with branded gearing and no noise.
I thing to changing the five reductor gearings too ...

Would you happen to know the bearing sizes? and any recommendations on ordering a replacement set in advance?
6201 and 6203 are the two motor bearings, 2RS version (sealed).
I don't have ref for the five reductor bearing.
in Europe we use SKF or SNR brands.
 
markz said:
No grease in the gear reduction, not good.

To access the gear reduction - is this the drive side? (Remove freewheel and then the cover to add grease?)
 
ScooterMan101 said:
1) Looks like the controller is not working as it should, don't know if the factory that makes the controller for GNG made a mistake on programming , or , if the Fets / Caps / and or Shunts are not good enough for a Real 72 volt controller .
A real 72 volt controller should have at least 90v or 100 v caps .

Your controller should not have a LVC of 54.4 volts . for a 14s battery pack , otherwise known as a 52 volt battery pack , an LVC of 54.4 volts is only letting the battery discharge to 3.89 v per cell. You will not get the range you should get from that . On my hub motor bike I adjust the Cycle Analyst to have a LVC of 51 volts . I forgot exactly the % at that voltage , somewhere around 10 % or 15% left in the battery pack .

I also do not understand what " self learning wire " is ... Howard said it is the white or yellow wires on the controller.
I think there is something lost in the translation from Chinese to English .

on my Infineon clone controllers the white wire when plugged together allows the controller / motor to regen.

Does the Cyclone / GNG 3000 watt mid drive have the ability to use regen ? if not then unplug the white wires , and have nothing plugged into them.


B.T.W. I just got mine this week, I did not order it with a controller since I have a few new controllers sitting around.
But I am going to have to find the Shunt Value of my controller and its voltage ( I know it is at least a 48/52 v capable controller ) and I will have to cut off the HiGo connector from the controller and also put some connectors on the Phase Wires of the 3000w motor .
I really do not know why GNG does not use the Standard 4mm bullet female connectors on the motor phase wires like most every other motor does .
4mm female bullet connectors on the motor side makes connecting up a controller much easier and cleaner !

Perhaps we all , including people who want to buy the new 2019 3000 watt motor let GNG ( Jon/Howard ) know that we want 4mm female bullet connectors on the motor .




TOLM said:
Got a response from gng. Wppwrently the 48-74v controller was. Intended for 60v batteries

Any one has a clue what is meant by " plug in the self learning wire"? Right now this wire is not used at all. ?

Thanks

*********

Dear Pavel,

I see what happen. Just asked the controller factory and they have set the low voltage cut off to your controller and we would not have that in next batch.
The controller self detected the battery to be 60V, and thus set the low voltage cut off at 54.4V.

There is a way to solve this problem:
please find a 48V battery (or if you can discharge your current battery to be lower than 52V)
plug in the self learning wire again.
The motor will set the low voltage cut off base on 48V battery.
Unplug the self learning wire.
The controller will be able to use under 54.4V.


Thanks. After couple weeks of back and force communications they instructed me to use the learning wire when battery was around 47volts to lower the lvc. This helped.
 
Not sure about the GNG, but I just did my Cyclone 4kw, and its 4 bolts on the gear side, no need to remove the freewheel gear. Its easy to get out, putting it back in so that all the gears line up, is a matter of wiggling the freewheel and wiggling the gear reduction itself until it slides in easy. No pressure, very slight.

TOLM said:
markz said:
No grease in the gear reduction, not good.

To access the gear reduction - is this the drive side? (Remove freewheel and then the cover to add grease?)
 
markz said:
Not sure about the GNG, but I just did my Cyclone 4kw, and its 4 bolts on the gear side, no need to remove the freewheel gear. Its easy to get out, putting it back in so that all the gears line up, is a matter of wiggling the freewheel and wiggling the gear reduction itself until it slides in easy. No pressure, very slight.

TOLM said:
markz said:
No grease in the gear reduction, not good.

To access the gear reduction - is this the drive side? (Remove freewheel and then the cover to add grease?)

Excellent, thank you. 4k motor should same design.
 
This video shows it good. Though mine came out as one piece, the freewheel with the casing.

https://youtu.be/3FVt1rPqHIg?t=1361
 
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