TSDZ2 deliberately locking the one way bearing?

I need some advice and opinion on choosing to deliberately lock the one way bearing please.
Firstly some background as to why I want to do this:-
I'm building this...



There simply isn't room for a conventional pedal drive even using very small cranks. I've therefore decided to use this system...



...to keep vertical movement within the bodywork. This has the obvious potential issue of failing to rotate properly in the desired direction twice per rotation. To assist with this I'm looking to use a TSDZ2 and lock the sprag clutch so the motor assists with keeping the crank rotating in the desired direction. I appreciate that any run on when stopping pedalling is then going to power the pedals for a brief time and will live with this. The two questions I have are:-
Will locking the one way bearing cause any issues other than struggling to wind the crank to a desired start position when setting off?
What method would anyone recommend to lock the bearing? Welding, glue, buying one that's seized on it's own?

Thanks.

Popshot said:

I need some advice and opinion on choosing to deliberately lock the one way bearing please.
.... I'm looking to use a TSDZ2 and lock the sprag clutch ....
Will locking the one way bearing cause any issues other than struggling to wind the crank to a desired start position when setting off?
What method would anyone recommend to lock the bearing? Welding, glue, buying one that's seized on it's own?
...

Click to expand...

You say you are "looking" for a tsdz2. Does that mean you haven't one already?
In that case you could buy the coasterbrake version of it. That motor missing the sprag clutch.

Unfortunately I already have the regular version with the one way bearing. Is there a part in the coaster brake version that will swap over to replace that freewheel?

Popshot said:

....Is there a part in the coaster brake version that will swap over to replace that freewheel?

Click to expand...

If you can find it, the maingear.

Also you must flash new firmware too
This could be stock firmware or OSF

If you find a shop that sell this maingear it important to know if you must order helical or straight teeth
This because the helical teeth are ordinairy with the "sprag clutch" type and straight teeth with the coasterbrake type,
I don't know if the coasterbrake version has also helical teeth now.
If not you must change all gears for a straight type.

I had read somewhere that someone had insert a dummy bearing instead of the sprag clutch, for a coasterbrake conversion.
And someone has welded for the same reason the inner and outer ring together.
Never read an update if this worked for longer time.

Thanks.
Why would the firmware be different? Is it to cut the motor quicker on the coaster brake version? If so that's what I don't want. I want the motor to assist the spin past the two extremes of rod travel so want some run on to rotate past those potential stoppage points.I can't think of any other reason the firmware may vary.

Popshot said:

.. Why would the firmware be different? Is it to cut the motor quicker on the coaster brake version? If so that's what I don't want. ....

Click to expand...

I have no experience with a coasterbrake version, but freewheeling is done by the rear wheelgear.
If you use the pedalbrake you set some force backwards on the pedal, which is not possible with a sprag clutch type.
With that force you activate the torquesensor, so it could be that this backward torquesensing is ignored by the firmware.

I know with OSF enabling the coasterbrake option prevent a sturdy push of the pedals, if you resume pedaling with the bike in motion, and you have enabled boost too.

Ah - I see now. That makes sense. Thank you.