[SOLVED] bricked tsdz2 with broken stlink?

pxl666

1 kW
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Aug 22, 2019
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428
hey . is it possible to brick tsdz2 with vlcd6 with stlink that worked fine for few flashes but suddenly gives an error and in the same time motor stops working? display turns on but there's no read of speed and no power is sent to motor ...
 
pxl666 said:
hey . is it possible to brick tsdz2 with vlcd6 with stlink .......
It is possible to do a bad flash, but a complete brick imho isn't possible.
The firmware consist of 3 files. If one of them is corrupted, you have a bad flash.
Flashing again can solve this for two files with the Java configurator.
The third file (optionbyte) only can flashed manually with STVP.

To get the sequence clear:
Which error you got with flashing?
Did the motor run after flashing?
 
as of now it seems that st-link broke somehow. we tried to read memory from different motor and it failed too . seems like it broke during flash and this broke the process of flashing which resulted in faulty controller . my friend has another st-link so we will try if this one would work . I will report soon hopefully
 
pxl666 said:
as of now it seems that st-link broke somehow. we tried to read memory from different motor and it failed too . seems like it broke during flash and this broke the process of flashing which resulted in faulty controller . my friend has another st-link so we will try if this one would work . I will report soon hopefully
The STV2link is very sensitive for the wiring. The wires must be as short as possible.
The best is to use the original wire sockets with some shrinktubes to connect the speedsensor socket of the tsdz2.
You haven't said which error you got when connected
 
Elinx said:
pxl666 said:
as of now it seems that st-link broke somehow. we tried to read memory from different motor and it failed too . seems like it broke during flash and this broke the process of flashing which resulted in faulty controller . my friend has another st-link so we will try if this one would work . I will report soon hopefully
The STV2link is very sensitive for the wiring. The wires must be as short as possible.
The best is to use the original wire sockets with some shrinktubes to connect the speedsensor socket of the tsdz2.
You haven't said which error you got when connected

this is what we got when trying to restore original fw
 

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Elinx said:
pxl666 said:
hey . is it possible to brick tsdz2 with vlcd6 with stlink .......
It is possible to do a bad flash, but a complete brick imho isn't possible.
The firmware consist of 3 files. If one of them is corrupted, you have a bad flash.
Flashing again can solve this for two files with the Java configurator.
The third file (optionbyte) only can flashed manually with STVP.

To get the sequence clear:
Which error you got with flashing?
Did the motor run after flashing?
posted error in previous post , motor is not working , display is not showing speed like it has lost connection with controller
 
pxl666 said:
....
posted error in previous post ...
This error is with the second STlink? The one from your friend?
The error is about a missing SWIM connection.

Are the motor connection pins all there and not bended?

If it is the faulty STlink, I hope nothing has burned inside the controller.
Is it possible to measure the Voltage on the motor SWIM connection and GND
It should be 5V

file.php
 
it is 5v okay . pins are okay , they look good . tested the st-link with another bike and it reads bytes fine . im assuming that the controller causes trouble ...
is this any difference that i power on the main battery and not the 5v from stlink ? and i use only GND and SWIM but i see other ppl use 4 wires for connection ...?
 
pxl666 said:
...
is this any difference that i power on the main battery and not the 5v from stlink ? and i use only GND and SWIM but i see other ppl use 4 wires for connection ...?
The 4e wire is connected to the Reset pin, but that isn't used, so isn't needed to connect. You only need 3 wires.
I never tried to flash with SWIM and GND only and Voltage from battery, but maybe it could work.
Beware don't connect STlink Voltage too, because that could burn something.
 
okay . so with all the data provided - it there a chance to unbrick controller somehow ? if stvp can't read it ?
 
pxl666 said:
okay . so with all the data provided - it there a chance to unbrick controller somehow ? if stvp can't read it ?
First you said that your STlink doesn't read another tsdz2, a few post later you say it does fine.

imho it looks that something is wrong with connecting several times.
What exactly has happend with the controller you can't know, if you aren't 100% sure about the connections.

One thing you can try first is to use the 3.3V of the STlink instead of the 5V. Sometimes that does work.
If your STM32 really is bricked, the easiest way is to replace the complete controller.
 
Elinx said:
pxl666 said:
okay . so with all the data provided - it there a chance to unbrick controller somehow ? if stvp can't read it ?
First you said that your STlink doesn't read another tsdz2, a few post later you say it does fine.

imho it looks that something is wrong with connecting several times.
What exactly has happend with the controller you can't know, if you aren't 100% sure about the connections.

One thing you can try first is to use the 3.3V of the STlink instead of the 5V. Sometimes that does work.
If your STM32 really is bricked, the easiest way is to replace the complete controller.

now i have another st-link . this one reads other bikes but does not read my bike . so it is fine i presume .
3.3v you mean third wire from stlink and not ebike battery ?
 
just realized that the display might have gone off during flashing ? Is that possible and would this cause bad flash?
 
pxl666 said:
...
3.3v you mean third wire from stlink and not ebike battery ?
Yes, 3.3V from STlink to Voltage pin together with Gnd and Swim
pxl666 said:
just realized that the display might have gone off during flashing ? Is that possible and would this cause bad flash?
imho flashing is only a connection with the SWIM pin on the STM32, Voltage and GND.
Normally your display has nothing to do with it and stays off. Or it must be that you use the Voltage of the battery instead of STlink Voltage.
If it doesn't work it could be that some Voltage is missing, like 5V, but you have measured this already on the controller.
I really don't know what could be broken on your controller.
 
hey , thank you for help . i fixed this thing . used all four wires , SWIM GND 3.3v and RST ant this worked ! do i have to take out battery with this setup or just keep display off with battery on the bike ?
 
pxl666 said:
... i fixed this thing .... do i have to take out battery with this setup ....
Good to hear everything worked out now.
For safety reasons, it is always better to flash the controller without battery connected.
 
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