Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

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drprox   100 µW

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by drprox » Jun 11 2015 6:56am

It 'appears' to be limiting road speed at first but it is actually just limiting cadence on mine. I can tell by running in 1st gear, I can get around 6mph on setting 1 before the motor stops assisting. Knock down to 5th gear and the motor is back assisting and pulling 11mph now.

Road speed is limiting as set in the display is also taken into account but if it is set high it doesn't even come into the equation at low settings seemingly.

It would be nice to produce a few curves of cadence vs power, and road speed vs power and label the starts, ends, and gradients of the curves as to what each setting will affect.

I will try a low current decay tonight as once my cadence is reached my motor shuts off completely and comes back when pedal rpm drops, I wonder if at a lower level like current decay 5 the power drops off but not to 0%. From what others have said this is what 'keep current' should do, but mine is set at 60% and it certainly doesn't keep 60% at high RPM

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by DaDo.Bzz » Jun 11 2015 11:36am

tahustvedt wrote:No. The speed is 25 km/h at 100%, and lower according to the reduced percentages. Both speed and cadence are reduced on mine.
Lol, when you lower caddence, also speed will lower on same gear. ;)))))
LMX 81, 16S6P 60A
BBS02 on Cannondale Rz 120
BBSHD on CTM Scroll, XTR Di2, 700Wh 52V
Slovakia, Bratislava

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rscamp   1 kW

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by rscamp » Jun 11 2015 12:05pm

tahustvedt wrote:In my experience the basic % limits both speed and cadence, at least on mine.
Yup. I found the assist level speed percentage limits both the top speed with pedelec and cadence. For example, setting maximum speed in the menu to 50km/h and setting speed percentage to 64% nets 64% of maximum cadence and a legal 32km/h maximum assist speed in pedelec mode (0.64X50). You can set all assistance levels to 64% or below and maintain legal assist in pedelec whilst having a 50km/h top speed with throttle override. And if you select an appropriate cadence, you can shift smoothly with a derailleur in most situations without a throttle cutoff. Pretty cool, actually...
Rob
Trice QNT with Astro 3215 8T & V4 Drive
Trice Q with Bafang BBS02 at 48V with "500W" limit
Astro 3210-12T + Neugart PLQE60 20:1 Chain-Puller Spring '17

drprox   100 µW

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by drprox » Jun 11 2015 1:06pm

After further testing on my ride home tonight you are right it does actually seem to limit both. If only they released a manual of some kind for this.

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tomjasz   10 GW

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by tomjasz » Jun 11 2015 1:27pm

Hell It seems Bafang doesn't have complete understanding or there wouldn't have been all the problems with controllers and releases of units with bad programing. It seems a closely guarded fact but the fact is Bafang has released some bad setups. Thanks to Vendors like EM3ev and California eBikes some buyers have been protected and their controllers repaired or replaced. Pity those who bought from budget suppliers who often, and still sell old stock. Now it seems a newcomer YOCH has old Bafang designs and is peddling them as improvements. There are some good things in the pipe and thankfully the problems aren't widespread. But sadly not as uncommon as I'd like.
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by cruiser » Jun 11 2015 3:20pm

tomjasz wrote:
cruiser wrote:Just a quick note:

The current 750W can run 0 PAS and Throttle ON straight out of the box.
from which vendor?
em3ev

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tomjasz   10 GW

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by tomjasz » Jun 11 2015 3:41pm

cruiser wrote:
tomjasz wrote:
cruiser wrote:Just a quick note:

The current 750W can run 0 PAS and Throttle ON straight out of the box.
from which vendor?
em3ev
Still the best choice for the latest updates from Bafang, sadly many of the discount vendors still have old stock. I recently saw a new motor with the 5 screw case. Old design, now being peddled by YOCH as an upgrade over the BBS0x.
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by gridlok » Jun 14 2015 9:27am

I'm working on writing a hackers programming guide for the BBS02 for electric-fatbike.com . I'm interested in anyone who would be willing to help contribute. Please PM me if you're interested.

Over time as we learn more about programming the controller I'll be updating the article.

Karl
Fatbikes+Electric=Awesome : http://www.electric-fatbike.com

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by tomjasz » Jun 14 2015 10:14am

gridlok wrote:I'm working on writing a hackers programming guide for the BBS02 for electric-fatbike.com . I'm interested in anyone who would be willing to help contribute. Please PM me if you're interested.

Over time as we learn more about programming the controller I'll be updating the article.

Karl
It would be nice if someone posted just the basic parameters for known proper programing. Pity those who buy from discount sources and have poorly programed units and are stuck trying to sort through thousands of posts for parameters.

Thanks Karl!
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by maro64 » Jun 21 2015 8:49am

Some days ago I received and mounted a BBS02 36 Volt 500W dated 1505xxx may 2015 . All was good but I am unable to program parameters with the normal procedure. I installed test program in windows xp v3 on vmware workstation. The serial port tested serially goes normally. The startup procedure is correct and follows
the steps described in this forum. The test programs connects normally and finds serial port number correctly without error, but read and write windows remains invisible.
Somebody had the same problem with this recent release of BBS02 ?

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gridlok   10 W

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by gridlok » Jun 26 2015 7:19am

The full article with colors and images and links that actually work is located here

https://electricfatbike.wordpress.com/2 ... the-bbs02/

A Hackers Guide To Programming The BBS02
Posted on June 26, 2015

One way that the BBS02 middrive unit shines over other competition like the Bosch is the ability to program the controller yourself. Although the process of programming the controller will void any warranty that you got with the unit, to many people the risk of voiding their warranty is outweighed by the possibility of getting more performance or having the PAS settings more to their liking. There are 3 settings that most reputable resellers of the BBS02 will set for you.

Low Voltage Shutoff (in Volts)
Limited Current (in Amps)
Speed Limit

Many US vendors will be resistant to remove the 20mph speed limit as that may make them liable for any accident you are in with their motor. The BBS02 at 750Watts is really only powerful enough for about 25mph or so on level ground, although with a 52T chainring on a downhill stretch I have reached 40mph. At higher speeds your batteries get used up very fast.

It can be somewhat confusing as many of the settings on the drive controller have a setting of ‘By Display’s Command‘ which means the controller on the drive until will defer that setting to whatever the display is set to. There are 3 different displays which all have different settings on them and ways to set different variables like wheel diameter, speed limit and PAS levels. For instruction manuals for all three display types look here. The C965 and C963 are generally set to 5 PAS levels, although the C961 is easily set to 9. You can also adjust the C965 PAS levels up to 9. The last page after the Password has been entered is the PAS page, it can be adjusted up to setting “0-9”.

Before you start programming your controller, here are some important quotes from Paul at em3ev.

“The PAS functions like a switch, it either assists at a certain speed and current percentage or it doesn’t. It is on or off. The motor does not know how hard or how soft you are pedaling, it is not assisting you, it is not reacting to your behavior. It only knows that you are pedaling or you are not. The only change in the so-called assistance, is because the motor has been moved to a different point on the motors power curve and that is not a programmable parameter, it is just a case of pedaling that bit closer to the no load speed of the motor/controller combination, where the motor will deliver less torque and therefore less power. That is why the PAS settings are best left pretty much like they come from the factory, with gradually increasing speed and corresponding increases in current values too, as you go from steps 1 through to 9″
“Users can change the LVC, change the current level (reduce it preferably)”
“Users can also change the speed limit to be controlled by the display (but that does leave the kit more liable to blow).”
“Setting the throttle to 100% and without speed limit is what everyone wants, but is also a good way to blow the controller.”
“Once anything is increased, or the response is made faster, the controller is more liable to blow. Setting every PAS level to 100% is a terrible idea.”
Comes in a wide variety of colors, I recommend black for stealth. You don't want to draw attention to the drive unit.
A smaller chainring is critical for singletrack riding controller conservation. I prefer the 34T Raceface narrow\wide ring.

The biggest problem with the BBS02 is when it is turning under too much load at too low of a speed. The best way to keep the motor spinning fast is to get a smaller chain-ring and to make sure you are in the right gear for any hills you want to climb. The surest way to blow your controller is to use full throttle in too high of a gear on a hill where the pedals are turning too slowly. If you use a large chain-ring on your commuter (mine is a 52T because I like to go fast) make sure you shift down into a lower gear before coming to a stop even on level ground so you are not repeatedly trying to start moving in too low of a gear. Your pedaling cadence should always feel normal to fast, especially on hills.

Another strong recommendation for not frying your controller is to install a temperature probe. Instructions on how to do this are here and it takes about 7 minutes to do and costs $2 shipped.

In order to program your BBS02 you will need a windows PC with a USB port, a programming cable (from Empowered Cycles) and the software. More info on those three items can be found in this article.

Clicking READ FLASH or WRITE FLASH buttons changes or reads values from all 3 tabs at the same time. You should always click READ FLASH, then FILE->SAVE as a .el to make a back up copy before making any changes to your current settings.

There are 3 pages of programming variables. You can click READ for each page but it will only load the current settings on the controller on that page before you change them. Sometimes the serial connection is unreliable and a variable will have a totally wrong setting or garbage in it. I suggest clicking the READ button twice before you start changing the settings to make sure it read the controller settings correctly. I’ve never had garbage persist through 2 READ clicks, it always seems to get it right on the 2nd try. When you edit the variables you want you will then need to click the WRITE button for each page you change or WRITE FLASH for all pages. I would click the READ button again on each page after waiting a few seconds to make sure that the settings you changed were actually written to the controller firmware when you clicked WRITE.

Variables are color coded based on how safe they are to modify

Green variables are safe to change
Orange variables can be changed but there is some risk
Red variables should never be changed unless you know something that I don’t
The color of the variables are what defaults from various drive units as well as the .el configuration file for each vendor. You must save the file to your drive then rename it from .doc to .el then FILE->LOAD it directly into the Bafang program. All variables will be automatically set on all three pages and you need only to WRITE FLASH to write it to the controller.

Black is for em3ev settings. .el File is here
Blue is for Lectric Cycles e-RAD settings.
Brown variables and text is EMPowered Cycles settings & quotes. .el File is here
Purple variables and text is Kepler from Endless-sphere’s settings & quotes. .el File is here
BASIC TAB

Listed are the settings, in bold is the setting I recommend and what little we’ve learned about them. This article will be updates as we experiment more.

Low Battery Protect(Volts): 41/41/41/41 to 43 – This number will change based on the pack size and configuration. Most likely your battery will have a BMS that will shut off power when it gets too low. This setting is mostly useful when you are running a battery setup without a BMS which is not advised. Kepler notes,

“I use 43V on my 14S 4P 18650 pack setup”

Limited Current(Amps): 25/25/18/18 to 20– This sets the power level that the drive unit will pull from the battery pack. Be aware that just because it is set lower, does not mean that it will not draw more amps for brief periods. If you don’t want to stress the BMS you may want to set this number lower than you think it should be by 2-3 amps then slowly increase it over time if your $15 watt meter shows that it is not pulling too much power on a regular basis. This variable will be set lower than 25 if you have a BBS01 or a BBS02 with a lower power level rating than 750W. If this is set lower than 25 from the factory you CANNOT RAISE it safely unless you are sure it is a 750 Watt unit & controller and your battery can handle the draw (it should say on the bottom of the unit). Matt from Empowered Cycles has this to say:

“I recommend 18 amps in most cases. You still get amazing performance, prolonged controller life, more charge cycles from your pack, more range on your rides. If you have an internally geared hub, I recommend 15 amps and changing the “start current” on pedal assist and throttle all the way down to the lowest setting of 1. Even at 18 amps the 750 watt motor keeps up with an 8T geared MAC hub motor that is pulling 1500 watts. You do not need 25 amps for this motor to perform.”

Kepler has this to say

“ I agree that 18 amps is a good all-round setting. I then rely on the Limit Current Assist level to fine tune the max power best suited to bike.”

Asst0 Limit Current(%): 1/0/0/100 – This is the setting for the PAS at level 0. When pedaling at PAS0 you should be able to hear a very low hum and the motor should turn, but with not even enough power to turn the crank if set to 1. The throttle might not work in PAS 0 unless this is set to 1.

Asst0 Limit Spd(%): 1/0/0/1 – At power level 0 causes the controller to lower current gently to maintain motor rpm when 44% of speed limit is hit. Speed limiting is done based on motor RPMs not road speed. The throttle might not work in PAS 0 unless this is set to at least 1, it is really nice to have a hand throttle setting without any PAS intervention.

Asst1 Limit Current(%): 52/20/52/10 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 1.

Asst1 Limit Spd(%): 44/44/36/100 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 1.

Asst2 Limit Current(%): 58/20/58/20 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 2 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst2 Limit Spd(%): 51/51/44/100 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 2 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst3 Limit Current(%): 64/30/64/30 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 3 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst3 Limit Spd(%): 58/58/52/100 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 3 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst4 Limit Current(%): 70/40/70/40 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 4 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst4 Limit Spd(%): 65/65/60/100 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 4 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst5 Limit Current(%): 76/50/76/50 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 5 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst5 Limit Spd(%): 72/72/68/100 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 5 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst6 Limit Current(%): 82/60/82/60 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 6 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst6 Limit Spd(%): 79/79/76/100 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 6 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst7 Limit Current(%): 88/70/88/70 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 7 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst7 Limit Spd(%): 86/86/84/100 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 7 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst8 Limit Current(%): 94/80/94/85 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 8 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst8 Limit Spd(%): 93/93/92/100 -Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 8 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst9 Limit Current(%): 100/100/100/100 – Power cut based on road speed at power level 9 if set to 9 power levels.

Asst9 Limit Spd(%): 100/100/100/100 – Power cut based on motor RPM speed at power level 9 if set to 9 power levels.

A quick note on power levels. If your display is set to only use 3 power levels then the controller uses settings for Asst1, Asst5 and Asst9 and ignores all the rest. If it is set to 5 levels than it ignores every other power level setting (but uses Asst1\3\5\7\9). On the C963 display I have still not figured out how to set the display to 9 power levels, so you may be stuck with only 5 PAS power levels with that unit.

Wheel Diamter(Inch): 26/26/26/26 – Set this to whatever your wheel diameter is.

Speed Meter Model: ExternalWheelMeter / ExternalWheelMeter / ExternalWheelMeter / ExternalWheelMeter – As far as I know this is the only speed sensor that is set up for the BBS02

SpdMeter Signal: 1/1/1/1

PEDAL ASSIST TAB

This page is for the Pedal Assist Settings. Change conservatively, make small incremental changes and test rather than large ones.

Pedal Type: DoubleSignal-24 \ DoubleSignal-24 \ DoubleSignal-24 \ DoubleSignal-24 – Unknown

Disignated Assist: By Display’s Command \ By Display’s Command \ By Display’s Command \ By Display’s Command – This setting if set will override the Limit Speed setting on the Basic Tab and also overrides the speed limited on the Basic Tab.

Speed Limited: By Display’s Command \ By Display’s Command \ By Display’s Command \ By Display’s Command– Cuts power when the road speed from the mag sensor hits the number set here. If set to By Display’s Command then it uses the Display’s set speed limit.

Start Current (%): 10\50\40\30 -This variable is vital for not killing the controller. The lower the Start Current is set the less power is directed to the PAS system upon startup, this will create less strain on the controller when starting from a standstill, especially if you are in a gear that is too high. 100% Start Current will peak at well over 1kW draw. With Kepler’s settings this should be set to 30% or less. This can be set all the way down to 1, very useful for IGH bikes and for people wanting a more gentle start

Slow-Start Mode(1-8): 3\4\5\6 -Controls how quickly the power ramps and how much it overshoots. If this variable is set too high the PAS start will be jerky, if set too low you risk blowing the controller as with Start Current above. If you are in too low of a gear to start and this variable is set too low it can blow the controller.

Startup Dgree(Signal No.): 4\4\4\4 – The number of sensor steps before the start up commences. The maximum accepted is 20. 24 is a full pedal revolution. Too few makes start-up occur with too slight a pedal movement. Lower number is less pedal movement to start the motor. Does not work with 1 or 0.

Work Mode (angular Speed of Pedal/wheel*10): Undeterminated \ Undeterminated \10\10 — Adjusts the amount of power that can be applied to each pedal rotation. The higher the number the greater the power applied to each rotation. This might affect at what rpm peak power sits in PAS operation, changing it doesn’t seem to be noticeable so we advise to leave it alone.

Time of Stop(x10ms): 25\25\25\25 – This affects how quickly the drive stops after you stop pedaling. Some people report that setting this lower (as low as 5) may affect the startup delay on the throttle. If you set it to 0 the PAS system ceases to work. 25 is probably too high.

Current Decay(1-8): 4\8\6\8 – Determines how high up the pedal cadence rpm range it starts to reduce power, 8 being the highest. There is no detail on actual rpm speeds for the Current Decay setting. The lower this setting is the sooner the drive unit will start cutting back on the power as you pedal faster.

Stop Decay(x10ms): 0\0\0\20 – The amount of time the system takes to cut after pedaling stops. Lower is faster. Kepler says,

“I prefer a smooth stop transition. It is still quite quick to shut the drive down when you stop pedaling”

Keep Current(%): 60\60\60\60 – What this setting does when set at 60% is ramp the current down to 60% of the PAS level selected based on pedal cadence rpm, so at low pedal cadence you get 100% of the level selected but as your pedal cadence increases the power is reduced down to 60%. As you pedal faster the motor does less work down to whatever this number is set to (60% of max current or 15 amps on 25 Amp system).

THROTTLE HANDLE TAB

Start Voltage(x100mv): 11\11\11\11 – The is the throttle input starting voltage, the point at which the controller responds to input is at 1.1 volts, so set value to 11 which = 1.1 volts. As you begin to roll on the throttle the voltage moves up from zero and when it reaches 1.1v the motor begins to turn. Best to leave between 10 and 15. Too low and the display will throw an error as the motor will want to run continuously. If you change the throttle you will need to find the new lowest setting.

End Voltage(x100mV): 35\35\42\35 – You can set the max range to 42 which is the max input the controller accepts from throttle input 4.2v. If you set lower than this value your throttle response is not as linear or smooth as it could be. Matt suggests you set start voltage to 11 and end voltage to 4.2 for a wider range of throttle response and smoother control of motor output. If you use an aftermarket throttle you will need to test to see what voltage the hall sensor throttle is giving off at full throttle and set this number slightly lower than that voltage shown on the meter (times 10).

Mode: Current\Speed\Speed\Current – Switching this to Current Mode (instead of Speed mode) has an improvement in the throttle response smoothness. If you change this then set the Start Current % on this page to 10 or less.

Designated Assist: 9\9\9\9 – If you disable the PAS system (step 5 here) then this will give you the same number of levels of throttle power as PAS settings. If you don’t disable the PAS system then you should probably set this to 9. If your bike is in a rental fleet and don’t want to deal with fried controllers then you should set it to something much lower like 6. This setting if set will override the Limit Speed setting on the Basic Tab and also overrides the speed limited on the Basic Tab. If you set this to 9 be aware that you can and will fry your controller if you are in too high of a gear on too steep of a hill and you peg the throttle.

Speed Limited: By Display’s Command\40KmH\40KmH\40KmH – Cuts power when the road speed from the mag sensor hits the number set here. If set to By Display’s Command then it uses the Display’s set speed limit. However this setting can sometimes cause severe Throttle lag in PAS0 so if you set it to 40km/hr the 2-3 second throttle lag should disappear.

There is a lot of ways to disable the speed limit. On the C965 display you can disable it in the programming for the display. You can also set it to a faster speed limit by choosing a smaller wheel size. If you program the Speed Limited to 50km/h on the display then set the display to a smaller wheel size then it will display kph but will really be mph. If you have a 26 inch wheel, set it as 16 inch wheel in the display (i.e. 26/1.61 = 16 – 1.61 is also roughly the same ratio as km to miles, as in 26km is 16miles). If you have a fatbike tire you will want to set it to 18 inch diameter as the 26 inch fat tire is really closer to 29 inches due to its thickness. After making this change, then 25km/h on the display will in actual fact be approximately 25mph in reality. If you set this to a number it will override the Designated Assist variable on the previous Pedal Assist page.

The speed limit only applies to the PAS and in ignored by throttle input, so in other words, if you want to go past the speed limit, just use the throttle. This is a setting that allows the rider to set a pace or cadence when using pedal assist for a comfortable steady pace. Almost like cruise control, when you begin to go past the speed, the motor cuts out to maintain a lower speed. It is a useful way to extend range. The max speed limit of the display is 45 mph.

Start Current(%) : 10\10\10\10 to 20 – Percentage current of available when throttle initially applied. Unwise to raise beyond 20, but fine to lower, however motor will give less power when the throttle is engaged. If you set the throttle Mode to Current (which I think you should) you will want to lower this number substantially or it will be very jerky on startup. 5-10 gives a much smoother startup. This can be set all the way down to 1, great for IGH bikes and smoothing out power delivery.

So what do you recommend?

If I was running a rental fleet of electric bikes I’d probably neuter my controller to 18 Amps like Matt & Kepler do. For smooth throttle control and less delay the Current Mode on the Throttle Handle Tab is the way to go, but you should keep the Start Current % low (below 10 is safe) otherwise the throttle is far too jerky and wheelie prone.

I have 8 BBS02 controllers from various manufacturers and I’ve only had one controller failure from the first one I bought from elifebike. The two I have bought from Lectric Cycles and all the ones I have bought from Paul and Doug at California-Ebikes (which both use em3ev’s settings) have given my absolutely no problems. The Lectric Cycles settings has a jumpy throttle and a little throttle delay which could be corrected by switching the Throttle Mode to Current. I have hundreds of hours beating the living piss out of my drive units with em3ev’s and Lectric Cycles settings with no complaints and no controller failures. I don’t tend to modify the programming just in case I want to try to warranty something, although generally I’m a fix-it-myself kind of guy.

There are plenty of people who say Kelper’s settings are very reliable, but I have not tried them yet so I cannot say. I would not advise using Kepler’s settings at a full 25 Amps, as you are asking for trouble. 100% Limit Speed at every PAS level at is going to put a serious load on the cheap-ass controller mosfets.

In some ways its great that we can get into the software and change so many of the settings for the BBS02. Along with this flexibility comes taking responsibility for the controllers and drive units we end up destroying by tweaking the settings. This guide is a way to share information that others have discovered the hard way, but by no means is definitive. All the information here could be wildly inaccurate as no one that I know of has gotten any real technical guidance from Bafang on how to program these units at all.

Program at your own risk. Don’t program your controller, fry it, then try to get it replaced under warranty pleading innocence. If you fry your own controller then have the common decency to spend the time and energy to fix it yourself or just suck it up and buy another one. Paul has had so many problems with people ripping him off by custom programming and frying their controllers and then trying to get free warranty replacements that he no longer warranties the individual controllers. Can you really blame him?

This article is the culmination of many hours of work and was contributed to by Paul(cellman) from em3ev, Matt from Empowered Cycles, kepler and drprox from Endless-Sphere and this insanely long 37+ page thread on ES. Many thanks to everyone who contributed. I could have done it without you but the results would have been really laughable.

Ride On.
Fatbikes+Electric=Awesome : http://www.electric-fatbike.com

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by opperpanter » Jun 26 2015 7:58am

That should be the opening post :-)

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tomjasz   10 GW

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by tomjasz » Jun 26 2015 11:14am

Great work Karl!
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by Kepler » Jun 26 2015 8:55pm

Yes, great work on putting this together Karl. I am honored to be included as part of this article.

One item I think needs further clarification is the following:
There are plenty of people who say Kelper’s settings are very reliable, but I have not tried them yet so I cannot say. I would not advise using Kepler’s settings at a full 25 Amps, as you are asking for trouble. 100% Limit Speed at every PAS level at is going to put a serious load on the cheap-ass controller mosfets.
I agree that keeping the full 25 amps with these settings is not a wise move however I am not in agreeance that "100% Limit speed" is the culprit for overloading the controller mosfets. We have already established that the PAS is essentially a switch with some control logic that keeps the on / off transition nice and smooth.

My understanding is that the function of the "Limit speed" setting is to determine at what level of cadence the drive stops providing assist. With this in mind I fail to understand why stopping assist at a lower cadence level would place less load on the Mosfets then stopping the assist at higher level of cadence. In fact the higher the cadence level and associated motor RPM, the less load you are placing on the Mosfets for a given current limit.

In my view the "limit current %" is going to have a far more profound effect on how hard the Mosfets are being worked. A high limit current % combined with low cadence levels while climbing hills is what is going to kill Mosfets.

I set my drive to 100% so that cadence is taken completely out of the equation. That being said I think there is merit in setting the "Limit speed%" to a level that matches your maximum comfortable cadence level.
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tommie   10 W

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by tommie » Jun 27 2015 4:39pm

The following are the latest factory default settings taken from a motor dated June 2015 that i received a few days ago if you wish to compare the latest settings..
BasicCont.jpg
Basic
BasicCont.jpg (136.05 KiB) Viewed 2468 times
Pedalcont.jpg
PedalAss.
Pedalcont.jpg (132.97 KiB) Viewed 2468 times
ThrottleCont.jpg
ThrottleHandle
ThrottleCont.jpg (109.36 KiB) Viewed 2468 times

alexis57   100 W

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by alexis57 » Jun 30 2015 8:04am

Hi guys !

I programmed my bbs02 but with this setup, when I use the throttle at the PAS0, the speed is really slow. (The bbs02 is still not on the bike)
Image
Image
Image

For now, I have 3 levels (and I want to keep them) from the C965 (without wattmeter) and I would like to get the level 0 for avoid PAS but I would like to be able to use the throttle at full power for every PAS.

I didn't find how to do it...

Thank you !
Selling 40 new cells NCR18650PF Rank B

opperpanter   100 W

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Location: The Netherlands

Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by opperpanter » Jun 30 2015 8:18am

Change on "Throttle handle" tab, the value for "Designated assist" from "By Display's command" to "9".

Might be that in your case 3 will also work, but I have it set to 9 because I have 9 levels of assist and I think 9 will also work even if you have only 3 levels.

DaDo.Bzz   100 W

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by DaDo.Bzz » Jun 30 2015 8:30am

alexis57 wrote:Hi guys !

I programmed my bbs02 but with this setup, when I use the throttle at the PAS0, the speed is really slow. (The bbs02 is still not on the bike)
Image
Image
Image

For now, I have 3 levels (and I want to keep them) from the C965 (without wattmeter) and I would like to get the level 0 for avoid PAS but I would like to be able to use the throttle at full power for every PAS.

I didn't find how to do it...

Thank you !
It would take parameters from PASS 9 in basic tab, and this could be mapped to level 3 if u have 3 levels setup on LCD ( that mapping is weired) I have set throtle to level which is not mapped to my 5 level on LCD and did put there 100 and 100. Works and still have 5 separate pass levels + 0 level.
LMX 81, 16S6P 60A
BBS02 on Cannondale Rz 120
BBSHD on CTM Scroll, XTR Di2, 700Wh 52V
Slovakia, Bratislava

alexis57   100 W

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Posts: 137
Joined: Apr 15 2015 8:07pm
Location: Japan

Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by alexis57 » Jun 30 2015 8:32am

It's working !
I don't know why I thought I'd loose my 3 levels.
I'll see if it's good or not when the motor will be on the bike.

Thank you !!
Selling 40 new cells NCR18650PF Rank B

DaDo.Bzz   100 W

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Posts: 130
Joined: Feb 12 2015 3:29pm

Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by DaDo.Bzz » Jun 30 2015 8:43am

tommie wrote:The following are the latest factory default settings taken from a motor dated June 2015 that i received a few days ago if you wish to compare the latest settings..
BasicCont.jpg
Pedalcont.jpg
ThrottleCont.jpg

Nothing new. Again stupid settings as level one has 600W - too fast for level 1! I recomend to set level 1 to 10% it gives me usually 40W it is for battery saving and cruising with non electric ;) bike friends. Then step up to 750W ( for steepest hills) and full power for throttle (when u use new throttle handle it has good response, old one is like on/off switch). I have caddence on 65% for all pass, just the pass for throttle has full caddence. This is so far best setup for bafang and believe me, had reprogrammed it over 50 times. ;)))
LMX 81, 16S6P 60A
BBS02 on Cannondale Rz 120
BBSHD on CTM Scroll, XTR Di2, 700Wh 52V
Slovakia, Bratislava

opperpanter   100 W

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Location: The Netherlands

Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by opperpanter » Jun 30 2015 10:48am

DaDo.Bzz wrote:
tommie wrote:The following are the latest factory default settings taken from a motor dated June 2015 that i received a few days ago if you wish to compare the latest settings..
BasicCont.jpg
Pedalcont.jpg
ThrottleCont.jpg

Nothing new. Again stupid settings as level one has 600W - too fast for level 1! I recomend to set level 1 to 10% it gives me usually 40W it is for battery saving and cruising with non electric ;) bike friends. Then step up to 750W ( for steepest hills) and full power for throttle (when u use new throttle handle it has good response, old one is like on/off switch). I have caddence on 65% for all pass, just the pass for throttle has full caddence. This is so far best setup for bafang and believe me, had reprogrammed it over 50 times. ;)))
Cool, there's a new throtlle. Where can we order it, em3ev?

DaDo.Bzz   100 W

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Joined: Feb 12 2015 3:29pm

Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by DaDo.Bzz » Jun 30 2015 11:14am

I like more old one as throttle is closer to the nadle bar.
LMX 81, 16S6P 60A
BBS02 on Cannondale Rz 120
BBSHD on CTM Scroll, XTR Di2, 700Wh 52V
Slovakia, Bratislava

EMPowered   10 mW

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Joined: May 30 2014 5:41pm

Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by EMPowered » Jul 10 2015 10:44am

maro64 wrote:Some days ago I received and mounted a BBS02 36 Volt 500W dated 1505xxx may 2015 . All was good but I am unable to program parameters with the normal procedure. I installed test program in windows xp v3 on vmware workstation. The serial port tested serially goes normally. The startup procedure is correct and follows
the steps described in this forum. The test programs connects normally and finds serial port number correctly without error, but read and write windows remains invisible.
Somebody had the same problem with this recent release of BBS02 ?
The controllerst program does not test and find a serial port by itself or automatically, you must look in "device manager" find the comm port assigned to the usb device and manually enter it.
You may also have a dead controller, does the motor work? If the motor does not work, you will probably not get any connection.
Last edited by EMPowered on Jul 11 2015 12:04am, edited 2 times in total.

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tomjasz   10 GW

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by tomjasz » Jul 10 2015 11:10am

If on the opening screen you see the program version information in the bottom right corner, you are connected. Are you seeing that?
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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Whitehawk   10 W

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Re: Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

Post by Whitehawk » Jul 29 2015 3:29am

Hi all,

Do you know if it's possible to lower under 38v the low voltage cut-off of the 48v BBS02 ? With the aim to use 36v battery ....

Thanks a lot !
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