Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by karma » Mar 22 2010 2:29pm

i would agree my two stage is all chains so no belt slip. im on my third rear sprocket size its hard to find the sweet spot on a set like this. totally different than the standard hubmotor. :wink:

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by recumpence » Mar 22 2010 3:38pm

What you really need is a 3220 that will run in your wattage range more efficiently. But, hey, if the little 3210 is not burning up with that power, keep running it!

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » Mar 22 2010 9:22pm

Oh she gets toasty !!!... it's impressive how much power you can get out of such a small motor really. I think with a big fat heat sink ( the 2 stage aluminum block itself sucks out heat BIG TIME .. i thought my belt was getting hot but it's the motor heating up the drive and getting the belt hot ! lol.. ) i still have to play with the castle software, may try retarding timing next for fun.

Gotta start somewhere, my first hub motor was a used wilderness energy front kit with 7ah SLA !!... now that totally sucked but a pile of changes later i get a 100v 100 amp chopper that just makes anyone that sits on it smile after 10 seconds on the throttle.. lol..

The RC version of my dream ebike will come in the form of a KMX trike with multiple motors, a quad 3210 maybe ? would sound freakin great...! :twisted:

Bottom line, I can only do as much as the budget allows. So with that in mind the next thing is lipo .. then i'll get back into the drive adjustments ! Unfortunately the RC bike is not the only project on the go.. gulp..
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by damcard » Mar 22 2010 10:18pm

I have been thinking I will try one of these once I get my 3220. Looks like it would work well. Props to Jeremy for posting them. I want to find them in the US. http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/oil-filter-c ... 1030-p.asp
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by AussieJester » Mar 22 2010 10:28pm

I don't know anything about astros but i would think if its geared correctly it shouldn't be getting hot enough to need heatsinks? Matt.S? i can cain the utter crap out of my HXT 130 amp every start pull 60-80amp continuous up hills and it never gets hot enough to not hold your hand on the can indefinitely esc never gets even slightly warm AND thats with my wheelchair in tow! as i said though I know nothing about astros this might be normal? if that was my setup i would be seriously questioning the gearing before anything else YPedal Man, throwing more batteries at it isnt really a great solution just a 'band aid' fix, sprockets don't cost as much as batteries and a new motor when this one gets toasted .....jm2c though....long as your happyz with it. :P

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » Mar 28 2010 4:14pm

Alrighty. so i just got back from a short ride.

Before i left, i plugged in the castle USB programmer and changed the motor advance setting from Medium to Low, no noticable change in performance but it seems like the rpm/amp draw settles more quickly and the motor was not as hot as it usually is ( considering it's 0 celcius out there right now ). More testing to do in this regard but something i have been wanting to do for a while now.

About the battery thing, the PSI cells are up to the job but are being pushed too hard with this setup, 10C gets these poor cells too hot for comfort in my backpack.

Regardless of gearing this bike needs a proper diet of Lipo and 20ah worth of them for the range i want from the bike. Once i get the batteries onto the frame and off my back, i can go back and fine tune the gearing some more.. it's in the ballpark now and good enough to use as is for a while.

Not sure if you have any left matt, but those heat sinks you had machined a while back, any of them available ?
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by recumpence » Mar 28 2010 6:00pm

Nope. I can make more, though.

I have never seen a hot Astro that was run in its efficiency range. You really need a 3220. :)

I am serious. A 3220 will run in its efficiency range with your use. You will have much more power too. :mrgreen:

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » Mar 28 2010 7:16pm

Are these dimensions correct ?

http://www.astroflight.com/index.php?ma ... g5i43s0mkj

My 3210 is 2.25 " x 3".. the 3220 is 2" ?
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by recumpence » Mar 28 2010 8:20pm

That is 2 inch lamination stack. A 3220 is 3 inches long.

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Solcar » Mar 29 2010 2:15am

Ypedal wrote:
The RC version of my dream ebike will come in the form of a KMX trike with multiple motors, a quad 3210 maybe ? would sound freakin great...! :twisted:

Bottom line, I can only do as much as the budget allows. So with that in mind the next thing is lipo .. then i'll get back into the drive adjustments ! Unfortunately the RC bike is not the only project on the go.. gulp..
A recent idea of mine is to use 3 motors with pinion gears on the shafts placed 90 degrees apart with respect to the inside of a ring gear. The teeth would mesh much more gradually (and smoothly) because the arcs of all the teeth are in the same direction. The output gear takes up the last 90 degree position.
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by damcard » Apr 07 2010 6:07pm

I have considered using three motors with a double sided belt on my race-link setup. Have the belt serpentine around the jackshaft and motor pulleys something like this high tech computer rendering. :) I started to look at the gate belts to see if they would work, but it was just too much money for all the motors and controllers for me.
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-David

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by MitchJi » Apr 09 2010 2:48am

Hi Y,
Ypedal wrote: The RC version of my dream ebike will come in the form of a KMX trike with multiple motors, a quad 3210 maybe ? would sound freakin great...! :twisted:
How about 2 of these these (or maybe 1) 15kw RC outrunners Hal and Marko are working on?

Sensored, water cooling (optional), 5.2kg per motor, priced at about $300 each, designed to be connected in multi-motor configurations:
Image
Best Wishes!

Mitch


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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » Apr 09 2010 8:46am

Daaamn.. that's a huge B...H ! :shock:

*reminds self he has an Agni 95 Reinforced and a 72v 500 amp controller on the shelf !! :twisted:
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Arlo1 » Apr 09 2010 8:51am

Were do I sign up?
My Leaf motor controller build. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 27#p963227
My YSR build http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRo8r5g4NBg
RC and most types of Lithium batteries you MUST know your individual cell voltages charging and discharging.
Don't keep them were you cant afford smoke or fire!
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by MitchJi » Apr 09 2010 11:00am

Hi,
Arlo1 wrote:Where do I sign up?
The spec's of the original motor are on the first post in the thread.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =2&t=16728

The description of the final motor modified according to Hal's spec's starts here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 05#p254218
HEY GUYS , ON APRIL 19 WE WILL HAVE ALL NEW MOTORS THAT HAL REDESIGNED : -HALL SENSORED , LIQUID COOLED (USE IT WITH OR WITHOUT IT ) . AND JUST TO TELL YA , HAL ALREADY MADE MOUNTS FOR CONNECTING 2 , 3 ,4 ,5 ... MOTORS TOGETHER :) AND A FEW MINOR CHANGES :)
Best Wishes!

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by MitchJi » Apr 09 2010 8:01pm

Hi,
Ypedal wrote:Daaamn.. that's a huge B...H ! :shock:

*reminds self he has an Agni 95 Reinforced and a 72v 500 amp controller on the shelf !! :twisted:
Pictured next to an Agni:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... 09#p249609
markobetti wrote:i GOT THE MOTOR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HE IS THE SICKEST THING I SAW :) :) :) : ): :) :) ....

TODAY I WILL SEE HAL AND WE WILL TRY TO TEST IT. HERE ARE THE PICTURES . MOTOR CONSTRUCTION LOOKS OUTSTANDING
THIS MOTOR IS MADE FOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION FOR SURE , HE IS NOT SO LIGHT. HAS AROUND 5.5KG .

DEFINITELY HAS A LOT OF SPACE FOR AIR FLOW ON UPPER AND DOWN PART OF THE STATOR.

HERE ARE THE PICS : SIZE COMPARISON WITH CIGARETTES AND AGNI :)
Image
Image
Best Wishes!

Mitch


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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » Apr 13 2010 5:50pm

How's this for an eye opener..

I FINALLY bolted a magnet to the nuvinci and calibrated a CA....

Low Gear no load speed = 43 km/h

High Gear no load speed.. are you ready for this ? .. : 155 km/h !!!!!

at Battery voltage 46v

:shock:
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Mark_A_W » Apr 13 2010 9:27pm

I think you need to add more reduction to the motor.

Reduce your no load speeds by 50%, get more torque.
Under construction: Giant DH Team, MAC Shanghai, Infineon 18 FET controller, 64v Headway battery. LINK!!

Retired: Kona Dawg Dually + Bomber Triple Clamp forks with Nine Continents front hub motor, 48v 10Ah Headway LiFePO4 Pack + 12v 10Ah Headway LiFePO4 booster pack (nominal 64v).

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Dead: Jamis Dakar frame, Mongoose Pro Downhill frame, cooked Lipo booster pack....and various other bits and pieces...

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by AussieJester » Apr 13 2010 9:35pm

^^Agreed... gearing is way too tall for the motor imo, this could be alot to do with the excessive heat the motor is producing?

KiM

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » Apr 13 2010 9:49pm

yep... and these numbers will be even higher with 12 cell lipo.. so a 50 % reduction sounds about right.. just not sure how the hell i'm going to get it out of this setup !! ( clearance issues.. ) I can bolt a bigger sproket to the rear ENO.. and a larger pulley on the 2nd stage.. a reduction chainring on the outside for a few more teeth..

oh joy.. :D
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Mark_A_W » Apr 13 2010 9:57pm

:twisted: Don't forget the Wheelie Bars :twisted:
Under construction: Giant DH Team, MAC Shanghai, Infineon 18 FET controller, 64v Headway battery. LINK!!

Retired: Kona Dawg Dually + Bomber Triple Clamp forks with Nine Continents front hub motor, 48v 10Ah Headway LiFePO4 Pack + 12v 10Ah Headway LiFePO4 booster pack (nominal 64v).

Powered by the sun :)

Dead: Jamis Dakar frame, Mongoose Pro Downhill frame, cooked Lipo booster pack....and various other bits and pieces...

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » Apr 13 2010 10:00pm

Nahh.. just need more wheelie practice ! :|

I suck at wheelies... :oops:
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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by swbluto » Apr 13 2010 10:02pm

MitchJi wrote:Hi Y,
Ypedal wrote: The RC version of my dream ebike will come in the form of a KMX trike with multiple motors, a quad 3210 maybe ? would sound freakin great...! :twisted:
How about 2 of these these (or maybe 1) 15kw RC outrunners Hal and Marko are working on?

Sensored, water cooling (optional), 5.2kg per motor, priced at about $300 each, designed to be connected in multi-motor configurations:
Image
Gee, what post did you see this at? Those wires look tiny compared to the motor, but I guess that's how things go when the motors go huge. It just seems unlikely that it'd carry 15 kW, but maybe it's a "High voltage" type of motor?

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by MitchJi » Apr 14 2010 3:43am

Hi,
Ypedal wrote:yep... and these numbers will be even higher with 12 cell lipo.. so a 50 % reduction sounds about right.. just not sure how the hell i'm going to get it out of this setup !! ( clearance issues.. )
oh joy.. :D
Why don't you use two chains to the Nuvinci, to go directly to a FW on the Nuvinci, bypassing the crank, like Gary did here with the Nexus 3:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... 28&t=12267
The drive part of this is really pretty simple. There's separate chains to the rear for the motor and for the pedals. Both rear sprockets are attached to the SRF-3 hub, via a standard Nexus 16T splined steel cog (also available at UtahTrikes.com...). I'm using a Nexus cog because they are dished slightly, which helps in the alignment of the chains. This steel cog is sandwiched between a 22T 4-hole 64mm BCD "granny gear" aluminum mountain bike sprocket, and a 94T aluminum #35 heavy duty go kart sprocket I got from gokartgalaxy.com. This sprocket already comes with a 2-1/8" hole and four holes in a compatible 64mm BCD pattern. The 16T cog lines up perfectly, so it literally just bolts together. I used some small 3/8" wide spacers I got from McMaster, to space the two sprockets apart a bit. This assembly then slides onto the splined hub and is held in place with the circlip. The big #35 sprocket is on the inside. The 22T sprocket ends up being perfectly aligned with the chainline coming from the crankset.

To keep the motor from driving the pedals, I replaced the front crank with an IPS crankset, which has an embedded freewheel. I'm having some adapters made, however, that will eliminate the need for having to add a FW to the crank. The adapter will replace the 22T sprocket with threads that will allow a standard BMX freewheel to be screwed onto the adapter. These come in sizes from 16T to 22T, so it will be easier to match a stock setup.
I think you can use a FW for the pedal chain, and a fixed sprocket for your Motor using the FW on Matt's reduction drive(if there is room for both a FW and fixed sprocket on the Nuvinci). That would replicate the effect of Gary's adaptor meaning the Motor won't back-drive the chain to the BB. I'd try to limit the reduction to about 3:1 between Matt's drive and the Nuvinci.
swbluto wrote:Gee, what post did you see this at? Those wires look tiny compared to the motor, but I guess that's how things go when the motors go huge. It just seems unlikely that it'd carry 15 kW, but maybe it's a "High voltage" type of motor?
Using the sensors (optional) it doesn't have the normal RC Motor voltage limitations imposed by the necessity of using RC esc's. Luke thinks with the water cooling (optional) it will handle twice that. Here's the thread. The description of the version of the motor with Hal's tweaks begins roughly on page 8:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... =2&t=16728
Best Wishes!

Mitch


Buying a new Tesla? Use a referral code and get six month's of free supercharging. Please consider using our referral code:
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The best quality batteries and lowest priced batteries for DIY EV's are tier 1 OEM Quality Cells from salvaged (wrecked) EV packs. Three examples are Chevy Volt and Nissan Leaf and Tesla Model 3 packs.

Nissan Leaf Module specs are here
Chevy Volt Pack Info - Salvage 16kwh Packs Under $2k here

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Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

Post by Ypedal » May 30 2010 6:23pm

Dusting this thread off for an update.

My RC bike has REAR BRAKES !!!!!!!!!... :D I got an adapter for the 203mm rotor and i picked up an avid BB5 caliper, oh the joy of stopping power !.. love'n it !

And... crossing my fingers.. but LiPo should land tomorrow ! :o

I've been riding the bike a few times a week during the last month or so, it has been holding up well so far, damn i hope i'm not jinxing it.. I'm getting used to the nuvinci shiting habbits along with throttle position to hold for best efficiency ( cruising at 20 amps, half throttle )

Took it off-road, the motor mount is holding up well to hard hits, rear hookworm is not a good offroad tire but does the job for light trail duty.

Talk about an attention magnet this thing is.. yikes...
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