8 pounds, 14 horsepower........

recumpence

recumpence

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Apr 19, 2008
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On Earth right now. That can change at any time, t
Here is a little something I threw together. :mrgreen:

It is obviously not finished yet. I still need to mount the motor sprocket and chain idler as well as some finish decorative machining. I may machine fins into the thick motor front plate if I feel ambitious.

Anyway, I figured you guys would get a kick out of this.

Matt
 

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Those are some good numbers!!!

Beautiful work! I love it!

You are an artist!

Best Wishes,
-Luke
 
You know this means we MUST race :D :) :p

I think we could also race anyone but Jozzer in the E-motorcycle forum and win as well :)
 
liveforphysics said:
You know this means we MUST race :D :) :p

I think we could also race anyone but Jozzer in the E-motorcycle forum and win as well :)
Click to expand...

If we raced, I have a feeling we would both be struggling with wheelies more than anything else. :wink:

The only issue with racing the motorcycle guys is they would get all bent out of shape that our bikes cannot tolerate the power, they are illegal, and we have no business pushing a measly bicycle so hard......... :?

I figure this thing is good for 10kw bursts (maybe 30 to 60 seconds) and about 8kw continuous.

The entire bike should weigh in at 45 pounds depending on the cells I use.

Matt
 
You guys need to find a track!

Nobody can bug you if you do it on a private track.

And then you won't be scared of videotaping it for us.. :mrgreen:
 
Thing is, this much power is only really good for three things;

Very tall gearing for high top speed.
Good snap out of corners.
Wheelies.

The latter two get the nod from me for this build.

I will probably gear it for 35 to 40mph. That is the fastest I can go on my streets. However, I want to be able to snap the front wheel up at 30mph. I also want that surplus power affect. This is kind of like 1200hp in a car, you cannot really use it on the street. But, if you build it for more power than you will use, the system will merely be yawning when you ask 50 or 60% of its capability.

I do not like knowing I am pushing the edge on my recumbent every time I pull 4 or 5kw out of it.

Besides, I can think of a couple places that I could really open it up (with altered gearing) if I am willing to truck the bike a few miles out of town.

Matt
 
I want your shop...

So...how much torque are you expecting out of this thing...
 
Yep, this should definitely get the safety police after you, for sure. :roll: :mrgreen: When I eventually get around to doing my Townie, I'm going to try a single 3220, setup for 72V. Should be capable of similar power levels I think, not that I'd need, or want to use that much, though.

Anyway, this will be a very interesting machine. Can't wait to see the build progress. :) How are you going to mount this beast?

-- Gary
 
Wow, that's some nice work!

I'm curious as to the purpose of the timing belt. Could you have just used one chain around both motor shafts? I envision the chain wrapping backwards around the one shaft, and then simply reversing that motor. The two motors would be spinning opposite directions, canceling out any gyroscopic forces, thus improving handling . . . :lol:

What size chain are you using and what are you planning to use for ESC's?
 
I wanted to minimize chain noise. That is the reason for the timing belt rather than using one long chain and two sprockets. Besides, it has that cool supercharger look this way. 8)

The chain is #25 pitch. It will handle the torque just fine and will run quieter than a 219 chain. But, I am open to changing it if need be.

I will be running two HV110s. THey will both be fan cooled with added capacitance, and I will run a modified 200 amp version of Fechter's limiter.

Also, I may run a brass bus-bar setup similar to my car audio days. That way my 12S 4P lipo setup can run the 4 groups of cells to a common bus-bar with individual connectors each.

Anyway, this drive should absolutely rip.

Matt
 
Yeah, but we both know the conductivity isn't as good.

You're not one of those guys with a carbon fibre doorhandle on your Civic, are you? :lol:
 
I am aware of the issues with brass. Heck, CF is conductive. I could go that route!

I love working with various materials. I also love using multiple materials in conjunction with each other and the affects of doing such. For instance, did you know electrolysis occurs between CF and aluminum? That degrades the CF over time. Therefore you need an insulative layer between the two. But, that is not true for titanium. Therefore, you can use a titanium shim between CF and aluminum to eliminate electrolysis.

Anyway, don't get me started. :wink:

Matt
 
OK, I'm not even through with all the therapy I had to get from your last two-stage drive post and now you go and do this. Costing me allot of money to stay around this place. ;^) Very nice looking unit and gobs of power for to get into trouble with. What more can one ask for?
 
Matt - I think you've been "started" for a while, nevermind my getting you there. :mrgreen:

Titanium is one of my favourite materials - I rode a Merlin Cyrene a few years ago and was just astounded by the feel. Alive! Taut! I still get goosebumps.

Granted, one has to know what to do with it - but such is the case with any material.

That's why I have SO little respect for carbon fibre door handles, stereo trims and steering wheels... I could actually call it dis-respect, I guess, if that I accepted that as a real word. :wink:

Anyway, I'm all for purpose built. If it's to be bling, make it bling. For conductivity and sheer demonstrative value, I say go copper! Or hell, make it a superconductor.

I loved Luke's mention of heat-pipe CPU coolers in his build thread, for example... I googled for a few hours, and was amazed by these things. A pinnacle of pure engineering, but with style.

Anyway I love this build. The componentry and intent are possibly the most focused I've ever seen, and the package size is incredible.

My girlfriend looking over my shoulder was told: "It's less than half the size, a quarter of the weight as my moped, and has 14 times the power it was sold with... so ... it should accelerate like a Ferrari."

SHE gives you a thumbs up. :mrgreen:
 
A work of art as always, Matt.

Get that drive chain on NOW... :mrgreen:

What sort of speed would you be doing while pedalling at say, 70 cadence?
 
It is geared for roughly 20mph pedalling. I wanted it geared so I can still pedal it without the motor without the ratio being too high. I also want to be able to pedal wheelies. That requires a certain ratio to be ideal.

Matt
 
Your bike is beyond kool. Are you sure you don't need to add about 200 lb of ballast to the front end to keep the front wheel on the ground? Looking forward to seeing a movie with you doing a 1/4 mile wheel stand.

Bubba
 
So this is where you have been, tinkering in your lab, machining, coming up with schemes to take over the forum. :lol:

That is a masterpiece that any gearhead can appreciate. Will you only output one motor?

I am thinking, why don't you machine your own rear hub with mounting flanges, spoke flanges and double side freewheel threading all overbuilt, I'm sure alot of guys would be interested in something like that. I would, and I'd be willing to pay a pretty penny if everything just bolted up to it. 8)
 
I have kicked that around. The only reason not to do it is clearance. The best freewheels have a flange that does not allow them to be threaded beyond a certain point. So, side to side freewheels would be a real pain.

Still, an overbuilt rear hub is not out of the question.

Matt
 
Hopefully not too far off topic, following the custom hub idea, I saw the post on this thread:

Re: Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

about Staton Inc products, and they have some interesting stuff on their web site, including custom hubs for ICE with thread on both sides and for different spoke counts as well.

(Moderator, please feel free to move this post to a new thread on custom hubs/wheels if you think its worthwhile)
 
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