2019 GNG 3000W cyclone middrive

since the discussion got OT https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=95704&start=200#p1447418
this drive now gets it's on thread.

Product page
https://www.gngebike.com/gng-2019-3000w

GNG have confirmed that the upgrade parts will be available, but no word on pricing.

They confirmed to look into 4kw kit given demand.

4kw motor is the same device with a bigger core. Has taken me up to 58mph(94kph) on flat at 72v 80a with a 70% charge, ~5400w.


3kw cyclone can peak at ~70a ~5500w at 72v, 4kw at ~100a 7200w at 72v.

Of course, if you're going north of 4000w, you should be thinking of single staging it, like the guys in this x1 thread. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=97479

Since it is so quiet here... I got one
So far I'm waiting for more parts to finish the build. Other drives I have experience with: TDSZ2 & BBS02. This should be my (first) wheelie monster with a 3 speed nexus disc hub :thumb:

Only issue so far is the BB mount hits the rear arm but nothing a little disc grinding cant help overcome. Only question is... Can it run 20s?

dvdspelert said:

Since it is so quiet here... I got one
So far I'm waiting for more parts to finish the build. Other drives I have experience with: TDSZ2 & BBS02. This should be my (first) wheelie monster with a 3 speed nexus disc hub :thumb:

Only issue so far is the BB mount hits the rear arm but nothing a little disc grinding cant help overcome. Only question is... Can it run 20s?

Click to expand...

Of course. Interesting it is not the standard cyclone (yuyangking) controller.

How long did it take from the day you placed the order , until it arrived at your door ?

How long and wide is that 15 fet controller ?


People with linkage bikes like yours will have modify the mounting plates.

It would be good for GNG to ship this motor with mounting plates that only are 5-6 mm bigger ( 10-12 mm overall larger diameter ) , than the BB shell of a BSA threaded bike. So that it would clear any linkage on both sides .
Look at the Giant Masetro type of linkage that they and many other bike Manufacturers use as well.

And

To have waterproof connectors that have 11 awg or 12 awg blue / green / yellow phase wires into a waterproof connector.

A new bigger version of a HiGo would have to be designed ?

Didnt take too long... I'd say 2-3 weeks from payment?
The measurements of the controller are 185x85x43mm. Its a bit big. But the outsides seem water resistant with a rubbery layer on the ends. You think I need to upgrade motor wires? Im just planning to connect them direcly with some heat shrink tube layering. Maybe remove the useless wires from inside and waterproof it a bit more indeed. There is also 2 orange wires labeled cruise (switch for the coppers I guess?) and one blue wire labeled speed meter (needs pulsing input or something?) I need to have the right tools to check and adjust the firmware. Ultimately I think to get the most from the motor (and fun) I would upgrade the controller in the future..

For now I'm doing the chainline and tensioner, since I'm using a shimano SG-3D55. I'll keep updates here

Odd they would go with a 35A controller. Is this temporary? The Luna 60A Bluetooth controller is amazing. Smaller, more powerful, AND very configurable.

Hi guys

I just got the 15 fet controller from GNG and not all my wires were labelled and it would be good to try and find out.

So far I have;

- phase wires (BU/GN/YL)
- hall sensors (BU/GN/YL/BK)
- keyswitch wire (RD)
- reverse (GN/BK)
- battery +ve and -ve (RD/BK)
- throttle (RD/GY/BK)
- speedometer (either PR or BU)
- brake lever sensor (BN/BK)
- self-learn (double YL that connects to itself)
- alarm (tri connector OR/BU/BN)
- alarm power (double connector RD/BK)
- 3 speed (tri connector WH/PK/BK)

And i'm left with

- either PR or BU that is not the speedometer

What would it be?

I'll try and add a photo but it looks the same as the one above.

First ride on my kit today. This thing decided to desintegrate. Other than that - lots of power. Easy to install

Which part failed ? the piece that looks like a Sram XD Driver ? or the cog/cogs on that piece ?

Is GNG going to ship you new parts under warranty ? ( no cost )

Let us know how long they take to get your new parts to your home.

TOLM said:

First ride on my kit today. This thing decided to desintegrate. Other than that - lots of power. Easy to install

Click to expand...

ScooterMan101 said:

Which part failed ? the piece that looks like a Sram XD Driver ? or the cog/cogs on that piece ?

Is GNG going to ship you new parts under warranty ? ( no cost )

Let us know how long they take to get your new parts to your home.

TOLM said:

First ride on my kit today. This thing decided to desintegrate. Other than that - lots of power. Easy to install

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Hi there

In the picture is (if i understand this correctly) the freewheel that failed the inside part of which is still attached to the adapter that normally sits on the shaft. I removed the whole thing from the shaft.

I let gng know that
1. This happened
2. There was zero grease of any sort inside the freewheel

Gng (Howard) offered to ship me the replacement freewhel but asked me to cover the shipping iao usd 15.00. Which i accepted.

I asked if by chance they can ship thing together with an adapter installed since there is no way for me to remove/re use this one as i do not have the special tool that is needed. Below is the response from gng. (I would agree to pay for this extra thing)
*******************
Dear Pavel,
The freewheel had been packed as pictures shown, we will send it tomorrow. The dissembled freewheel is due to loosening cap that can be easily recovered .Could you please try to upside down the adapter on motor to remove the adapter from the old freewheel? Now here is 3:00am mid night ,I will go to sleep soon. Thanks!

Best regards,
Howard
******************
I am honestly thinking to just oder a 13t fw from sick bike parts

This

http://sickbikeparts.com/electric-motor-freewheel-13t/

Some pics
Since i can not ride my bike.. Need to discharge the battery


Build quality of the mounting stuff is very impressive



I built a mounting bracket to protect the frame and add some more strength via two arms. The thing also holds the controller

Installed. Thinking of how to hide the wiring. Controller is ugly as well ))

E-monstrocity

Any more adepts here?

I have wired ( connected the wires ) the motor to controller wires to the same colors ,
the Phase Green motor to Green Controller
Phase Motor Blue to Controller Blue ,
and Phase Yellow motor to Yellow Controller wires ,
then
all the Hall Sensor wires to the same color motor to controller
and

The Motor is running .... Backwards ! ? !

Who here has had the same problem and how did you get the motor to spin clockwise ?

I am using my own 9 fet , 3077 fets , Lyen/Infineon Controller with the usual 3 phase wires and 5 hall sensor wires .

Jon/Howard sent me a e-mail a while back that did Not , make any sense . Are they spending all their time on the XT Pro and not making the 2019 Cyclone motor right ? There are some improvements with the Chainring bolts , and freewheel / chain and a bolt head that is in the way of the right side/drive side crank arm , that I will talk about in another thread.

I have done 4 e-bike conversions before this one and I never had this problem before with hub motors and controllers from different vendors .

ScooterMan101 said:

I have wired ( connected the wires ) the motor to controller wires to the same colors ,
the Phase Green motor to Green Controller
Phase Motor Blue to Controller Blue ,
and Phase Yellow motor to Yellow Controller wires ,
then
all the Hall Sensor wires to the same color motor to controller
and

The Motor is running .... Backwards ! ? !

Who here has had the same problem and how did you get the motor to spin clockwise ?

I am using my own 9 fet , 3077 fets , Lyen/Infineon Controller with the usual 3 phase wires and 5 hall sensor wires .

Jon/Howard sent me a e-mail a while back that did Not , make any sense . Are they spending all their time on the XT Pro and not making the 2019 Cyclone motor right ? There are some improvements with the Chainring bolts , and freewheel / chain and a bolt head that is in the way of the right side/drive side crank arm , that I will talk about in another thread.

I have done 4 e-bike conversions before this one and I never had this problem before with hub motors and controllers from different vendors .

Click to expand...

You can reverse it just change around the phase wires. Also, some controllers have a reverse plug, 1 wire plugged into 1 wire.

My Lyen/Infineon Controller does not have the reverse wires you speak of,
nor
does it have the yellow wires that GNG calls the self learning wires

So ...

After looking at the Diagram above I first exchanged the Yellow and green Phase wires, the motor just made noise but did not move in either direction.

Then I left those two wires exchanged and also exchanged the Yellow and Blue Hall wires per the diagram, ( see the bottom right side of the Diagram where it says to exchange the yellow and green phase and yellow and blue hall wires )
Now ...
The Motor , Still , moves backwards .

Then I seperated the two white regen wires , and now .... The Motor Does not work at all !

Edit : 2 minutes later I plugged the Phase and Hall sensor wires back to their corresponding colors , kept the two white Regen wires plugged together , and now the motor works again, just Backwards like before .

ScooterMan101 said:

My Lyen/Infineon Controller does not have the reverse wires you speak of,
nor
does it have the yellow wires that GNG calls the self learning wires

So ...

After looking at the Diagram above I first exchanged the Yellow and green Phase wires, the motor just made noise but did not move in either direction.

Then I left those two wires exchanged and also exchanged the Yellow and Blue Hall wires per the diagram, ( see the bottom right side of the Diagram where it says to exchange the yellow and green phase and yellow and blue hall wires )
Now ...
The Motor , Still , moves backwards .

Then I seperated the two white regen wires , and now .... The Motor Does not work at all !

Edit : 2 minutes later I plugged the Phase and Hall sensor wires back to their corresponding colors , kept the two white Regen wires plugged together , and now the motor works again, just Backwards like before .

Click to expand...

On the bottom of the pic its says what you have to do to reverse it.

That is exactly what I did, on the bottom right of the picture ... exchanging the wires from the motor to controller as shown .

That does not work .

What controller do you have with the cyclone ?

I have received one of these to install, it arrived fast and all looks fantastic. The aluminium mounting brackets are works of art, main downside is they are so good they make the motor look a little cheap really. It's a little on the heavy side all up; but that's probably the motor, BB, steel sprockets etc. The 15 FET controller is very light but not exactly stylish. It has 4110z FETs in it.

electric _ nz ,

Wait to install it as there are things to check before and things that need to be done just a certain way in order for the motor and cranks to align up properly.
I am going to make a new thread on improvements that need to be made on it , and what to check for before you install it .

Since you just got it and probably want to install it right away here are a few points to follow for you to make your life easier , I had to correct some things that took hours/ days to figure out.

1) Mine was sent with the outer chainring put on backwards, the chainrings are cheep not like Shimano where you can look at the teeth angle and see how to correctly install onto the crank.
Look at the video's and pictures on GNG website closely . the chainrings should be on the crank with the indent of the chainring/chainwheel facing outwards , there is dish to the chainring so if your's is installed not right like mine was , ( a mistake at the Factory that cost me days to figure out ) , The chain will be at an angle that will have the chain jump off the motor sprocket . Between that mistake by the factory and my not screwing in the BB not quite enough from the drive side to non drive side make the chain always jump off when testing / turning the cranks by hand.

2) Be careful with the Chainring Bolts as they are Aluminium and will strip the heads at the hex wrench , unless you are very careful.
Note there there are no standard chainring bolts for bicycles that are the right length. ( I spent a month trying to find Steel Chainring Bolts / Nuts that would work , no one makes 16 mm outter/female steel nuts , add to that there are different thread pitches for Chainring Bolts/Nuts ) not even Sick Bike Parts sells such chainring bolts .
GNG needs to make those Chainring Bolts/Nuts with steel and make the female/outer ones longer like 16 mm instead of 12 mm !

3) You have to put in the BB just right , if you do not thread it in from the drive side enough then the left/non drive side crank arm will not clear a bolt on the motor, if you thread it in too much then the drive side crank arm will rub / not clear a bolt that holds the chain tensioner .

4 ) Notice how the spring direction goes on the Chain Tensioner , wrong way and the chain will be too tight .

There are other improvements that need to be done but I will list them later when I have time in a New Thread .

electric_nz said:

I have received one of these to install, it arrived fast and all looks fantastic. The aluminium mounting brackets are works of art, main downside is they are so good they make the motor look a little cheap really. It's a little on the heavy side all up; but that's probably the motor, BB, steel sprockets etc. The 12 FET controller is very light but not exactly stylish. It has 4110z FETs in it.

Click to expand...

I have tried many different combinations , the one that works is different from what the Schematic that Tommm posted, and different from what GNG was telling me.

( That is However a nice Schematic Tommm , it might help someone else )

I will post here what did work, but it might not work for everyone because the Controller I have I bought from someone who was only wanting to sell the Befang BBSxx series motors, the controller was modded by Lyen and has the HiGo type of cable coming out of it , perhaps to use as an outside controller for BeFang mid-drives.

If any one in the South SF Bay Area wants to test this controller on their Befang BBSxx mid drive I have another new one that I would sell you if it works on your Befang mid-drive .

For me what worked is :

Motor Phase Green to Controller Blue
Motor Phase Blue to Controller Green
However just these two do not work , one must also ...
Switch two Hall Wires as well
Motor Hall Blue to Controller Hall Yellow
Motor Hall Yellow to Controller Hall Blue

All this was done on a Bike Work Stand, motor feels weak with 16 s battery pack and Cycle Analyst set to 35 amp max.
I must now correct some other items that need to be done on the mounting hardware before testing under load on the road .

I now have 450 miles on this motor . ( it is Winter here with allot of rain days so I am not riding a e-bike much. since at speeds of 20mph and more I am freezing cold , and no amount of regular clothing is warm enough )

There are a couple of problems with the kit ,

1) the front crankset / chainrings wobble , this puts a sideways motion to the chain and rear cassette cogs . At higher speeds this sets up a frequency that tends to move the rear swing arm from side to side a small amount . Which makes me wonder if I am getting a flat tire . ( anyone else who has this kit let us all know if your inner chainring or both chainrings wobble , you can test this when motor not running by turning the crankset backwards . )

2 ) the chainring bolts are too short , and they are Aluminium . ( They should be longer like 16 mm long or a little longer and be made of steel ! )

3) the chainring bolt spacers that go between the chainrings are not sized to fit the chainring bolts exactly . the inside of the spacers are larger in diameter than the outside of the female chainring bolt/nut .

Over all I like this mid-drive since I can shift gears/cogs on the rear cassette for either more speed or for climbing hills.
I am using a 9 speed cog set 12-36 tooth with 9 speed chain and shifter . Since it is a 9 speed chain set up I rarely use the 12 tooth cog , most often only down to the 14 tooth cog to make the chain and cogs last longer.

A Down side of this kit is that it is this is a heavy mid-drive, 10.5 pounds not including batteries , however
once I get a higher power controller I can use the motor's potential better so on the street might not notice the weight as much , ( I did not buy a controller from GNG since I have a couple of new 9 fet controllers already ) Right now I am just running this drive on 600-1400 watts , mostly a little over 1k watts or a little under and on the street 750 watts or under since I can use the gearing to get the speed I want .. ( the controller I am using is a lyen 9 fet with 14s or 16s battery pack , I am guessing it is only a 30 amp controller since on the Cycle Analyst I am only seeing up to 30 amp max and mostly under 20 amps only going a little over 20 amps when going up hills with 6-7 % grades)