26 inch - 4" fat tire build for sand

The laced bafang wheel is bit over 2 inch wide,
The mongoose factory wheel had a glued on rim tape.
I used 2 layers of hockey tape on the bafang rim.

Question: will a 4 inch wide tire and factory tube fit on this 2 inch wide rim?


I was not careful and stripped a disk screw, arrrrh, I am going to lowes to get a screw out and see if I can take it out.

The bottom bracket is notchy, does not turn easily, it feels as though it lacks grease and is over tightened.
I don't have the tools to take off the crank and bracket thing. I will reach out to neighbors/friends and see if I can find one.
 

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gobi said:
Question: will a 4 inch wide tire and factory tube fit on this 2 inch wide rim?

Answer: yes.

The only advantage you'd get from using a wider rim is the ability to use lower tire pressure before the tire becomes unstable. So a wider rim could be of benefit for running on sand at the most effective soft-surface pressure. But for sure you can use a 100mm tire on a 60mm rim.

As for your stuck screw, I would (carefully) notch the head with a hacksaw, covering the brake rotor if necessary, then give it a whack with an impact screwdriver. Second choice would be to drill the screw socket with a 5mm ish drill until the head pops off, then worry out the remainder. A left hand drill bit might remove it all at one go.
 
Chalo said:
gobi said:
Question: will a 4 inch wide tire and factory tube fit on this 2 inch wide rim?

Answer: yes.

The only advantage you'd get from using a wider rim is the ability to use lower tire pressure before the tire becomes unstable. So a wider rim could be of benefit for running on sand at the most effective soft-surface pressure. But for sure you can use a 100mm tire on a 60mm rim.

As for your stuck screw, I would (carefully) notch the head with a hacksaw, covering the brake rotor if necessary, then give it a whack with an impact screwdriver. Second choice would be to drill the screw socket with a 5mm ish drill until the head pops off, then worry out the remainder. A left hand drill bit might remove it all at one go.

Chalo,
Gotcha, I mounted the new tire (chaoyang sand storm) using the mongoose factory tube, it fit well, Danke!

link to tire:
https://www.chaoyangtire.com/index.php/pro/pro-details/7/148?type=FAT&name=SANDSTORM

Member in Thailand uses this and recommended in a thread I read.

I am going to take off one side of the crank to grease the crank bearings, it turns but is kinda notchy, at 9 to 2 it is hard to turn and then it loosens up and then hard again.
 

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My freewheel tool kit off amazon came in and it does not fit the freewheel, some looking around on mtb forum, it seems it uses a different freewheel, I bought that off ebay (same price at amazon), another $10 flushed.

Trying to customize my rear light from a bunch of marine leds I have, they are all 12v, I think I can put 4 in series and use it, or maybe 3 in series for my 13s pack.

I tried to look up the VOLTAGE range of the marine leds and maker leds I have, I failed and none of them list the voltage range.

At min, I think it should be 9v to 15v for a 12v Led, fair assumption?
 
Update:
Finally got around to the assembly.

The rear dropout is around 190mm and even with the 170 (??) mm bafang drop out I still have a lot of gap to fill,
I bought some nutz from amazon and I fan fit 2 washers and 2 nuts but then I don't have enough threads left over on the outside (see pic)

Q: is it OK to take a washer out and compress the dropout like 3mm ish?
 

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20mm is quite the distance, I cracked my dropout at about that distance. Think how much stress that area takes, then squeeze it in or expand it out with all those bumps, hopefully it will last.
 
calab said:
20mm is quite the distance, I cracked my dropout at about that distance. Think how much stress that area takes, then squeeze it in or expand it out with all those bumps, hopefully it will last.

Calab,
ouch, no I have around 20 mm of space but I added those skinny nutz and a washer and then the torque piece and then I had around 3 mm of gap that did close up nicely with a skinny washer on the outside and a full size nut.

I was able to align the rear brake caliper, yah!

can't wait to ride this.
 

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I could not fit a regular torque arm that I have use before for the front fork. I used the the little tiddly tabbed washers instead for now.
Bafang nearly always OVER states their torque, so I should be good for now?

Controller enclosure: The factory kit came with a plastic enclosure for the controller, why use it? won't that prevent the controller from cooling down?
 
gobi said:
I could not fit a regular torque arm that I have use before for the front fork. I used the the little tiddly tabbed washers instead for now.
Maybe the TA can fit on the inside of the dropout?
 
99t4 said:
gobi said:
I could not fit a regular torque arm that I have use before for the front fork. I used the the little tiddly tabbed washers instead for now.
Maybe the TA can fit on the inside of the dropout?

nope, the hex head bolt hits the side of the drop out,
I think I can put on on the outside on the disk brake side, I will add more washers on the outside to offset the torque arm like 2 mm to give it enough offset off the dropout frame to fit.
I will try it in the morning and post pics, thanks,
 
I peeked at GRIN and what do you know they make a REAR axle torque arm,

Who knew such a thing existed, I broke down and dropped nearly $50 on a GRIN rear torque arm.

Phew, that part is solved.

Now to mount the controller and the battery.
 
gobi said:
Who knew such a thing existed,
You obviously didn't, but I have recommended it several times recently here on ES.
Congradulations on your acquisition :thumb: it's a solid, high quality, well designed/engineered crucial piece of hardware. :D
 
99t4 said:
gobi said:
Who knew such a thing existed,
You obviously didn't, but I have recommended it several times recently here on ES.
Congradulations on your acquisition :thumb: it's a solid, high quality, well designed/engineered crucial piece of hardware. :D

So I guess you're saying that converting this thread into a sticky so people will know Grin makes rear torque arms wouldn't provide much value... :shock:
 
E-HP said:
So I guess you're saying that converting this thread into a sticky so people will know Grin makes rear torque arms wouldn't provide much value... :shock:
Hey that reminds me-- didn't we start working on a sticky for things like this? What happened to it? :?:

"Grin makes rear torque arms" Yes very good ones; here is their info page. We are talking specifically about their "TorqArm_V4."
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html
 
99t4 said:
E-HP said:
So I guess you're saying that converting this thread into a sticky so people will know Grin makes rear torque arms wouldn't provide much value... :shock:
Hey that reminds me-- didn't we start working on a sticky for things like this? What happened to it? :?:

"Grin makes rear torque arms" Yes very good ones; here is their info page. We are talking specifically about their "TorqArm_V4."
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html

It kind of died; not much interest, but incorporated:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111571
 
Eastwood said:
gobi said:
can't wait to ride this.

Show more pictures! I don’t think you posted a picture of the actual bike?

It has been sitting next to my fireplace half done,I am aiming to ride this tomorrow after I volunteer at the sailing club.
Here you Eastwood:
 

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E-HP said:
99t4 said:
E-HP said:
So I guess you're saying that converting this thread into a sticky so people will know Grin makes rear torque arms wouldn't provide much value... :shock:
Hey that reminds me-- didn't we start working on a sticky for things like this? What happened to it? :?:

"Grin makes rear torque arms" Yes very good ones; here is their info page. We are talking specifically about their "TorqArm_V4."
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/torque-arms.html

It kind of died; not much interest, but incorporated:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=111571

E-HP,
I disagree, there is value in thread like your for newbies like me, it is nice to have a checklist.
I appreciate the threads which educate us.

The rear torque arm came in yesterday and I installed it already.
 
gobi said:
It has been sitting next to my fireplace half done,I am aiming to ride this tomorrow after I volunteer at the sailing club.
Here you Eastwood:

Nice! Is this your first build?
Also are you still working on the enduro frame?
 
Eastwood said:
gobi said:
It has been sitting next to my fireplace half done,I am aiming to ride this tomorrow after I volunteer at the sailing club.
Here you Eastwood:

Nice! Is this your first build?
Also are you still working on the enduro frame?

Nah, first build with a full kit though,

Enduro is in the works, need rear spring and crank, yes crank else in MI it is deemed as a moped and I need a Moped plate and then have to carry insurance on it also. Things start getting complicated, I might still do that route but that SEVERELY limits where I can take it legally in MI

I have a qs motor 205-35h hub which I am about to lace to a 17 inch moped/moto wheel, but I am not sure if I will use the 205-35h or get a 205-50h, I need to start a seperate thread on that, I have a spot for in my garage now so I can start work on it :)
 
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