Help setting up KTLCD8 display

Hello,
I would like to find a display that works with my controller, I listed the link to my controller below. It’s a universal controller, but I have no idea how to get a display to work with it. The display that I want to use (ktlcd8) has 5 wires. The only wire I can see on my controller that might be for a display is called “multi data meter display” it’s one wire bullet connector. Is there anyway to connect my display to this controller or is there another display I can use? Ideally I’d like a display that can handle 60v as I might upgrade to 60v.

Thanks for your opinions.

E‑Bike Speed Motor,48V, 60V, 64V,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HWF7MZ7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ebike92119 said:

Hello,
I would like to find a display that works with my controller, I listed the link to my controller below. It’s a universal controller, but I have no idea how to get a display to work with it. The display that I want to use (ktlcd8) has 5 wires. The only wire I can see on my controller that might be for a display is called “multi data meter display” it’s one wire bullet connector. Is there anyway to connect my display to this controller or is there another display I can use? Ideally I’d like a display that can handle 60v as I might upgrade to 60v.

Thanks for your opinions.

E‑Bike Speed Motor,48V, 60V, 64V,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HWF7MZ7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Click to expand...

Depends on what you want to display. If you just want to monitor speed, current, power, or voltage, you don't need a display that "talks" to the controller, for changing parameters, for instance. If you want to be able to tweak the controller setup, then you'd usually need a display that's compatible with that manufacturer (usually the same brand; they need to speak the same language), but even then, you'd need a way to connect it.
You could add a Cycle Analyst to any controller with a throttle input. It's not a display, but does display information like I mentioned (speed, power, etc), by taking inputs from the motor/controller, and either an internal or external shunt to monitor current. The CA can do a lot more than that, including adjusting throttle ramp rates, adding PAS, cruise control, and other stuff, so priced accordingly. It is also possible to add a CA connector to most controllers with a little soldering.

The cycle analyst seems useful. I should be able to hook up a 5wire display to my controller, all the right signals and wires are there with just have to find them or maybe it won’t work due to the software of the controller? Standardized connections would be nice. Even the more pricey controller like sabvaton do not have high resolution LCD displays.

Contact the seller and ask what display is compatible with the controller. Otherwise you're going to waste your time and money not solving the problem.

Looking at the wires in the item listing, I don't see anything that appears to be a display plug.

Ebike92119 said:

Standardized connections would be nice. Even the more pricey controller like sabvaton do not have high resolution LCD displays.

Click to expand...

I guess that's just one area the government isn't dictating, so no standardization/regulation.

Once you're installing Sabvotons, you're not really focused in looking at a display. If you do, you'll run into a tree, fly off of a cliff, or rear end a truck. The display is merely some info to look at when you have a half second to take your eyes off the road or trail.

That controller doesnt' have a communications/display plug (it doesn't have the right signals available), so it isn't compatible with displays that you're thinking of, that would talk to the controller and display info from the controller, and allow you to change settings, assist levels, etc. It is highly likely that what they call a "multi-data meter" wire is the same thing as on most scooter/etc controllers, essentially just a branch of a motor phase wire that goes to a scooter's dashboard for a speedometer signal; this is basically battery voltage level signal pulsed with the rotation of the motor.

That controller is what is commonly called a "dumb" controller, because it isn't user-programmable or settable.

So if you're purpose for a display is to change controller settings, etc., or display information generated by the controller, you'll need a new controller to do that, one that comes with a matching display (because displays are not generally inter-compatible, and if you don't get the display with the controller, there's a great chance it won't work with it--it might turn on, but it probably won't display speed, or send assist-level changes to the controller, or otherwise communicate with the controller, etc).


So...what specifically you want the display to do for you?

Hmmm.... Remember, this is a scooter controller. No PAS which is a biggie on an ebike. I made this mistake long ago.

Diggs said:

Hmmm.... Remember, this is a scooter controller. No PAS which is a biggie on an ebike. I made this mistake long ago.

Click to expand...

My 2003 Crystalyte controller has no provision for PAS, but it's as satisfactory as ever. My other e-bike has a controller that supports PAS, but a crank that's not as cooperative, so no PAS there either.

For me, pedaling isn't what I do to get the motor to run. It's just what I do.

Chalo said:

Diggs said:

Hmmm.... Remember, this is a scooter controller. No PAS which is a biggie on an ebike. I made this mistake long ago.

Click to expand...

My 2003 Crystalyte controller has no provision for PAS, but it's as satisfactory as ever. My other e-bike has a controller that supports PAS, but a crank that's not as cooperative, so no PAS there either.

For me, pedaling isn't what I do to get the motor to run. It's just what I do.

Click to expand...

Good point! How you ride makes a huge difference. I'm a country cruiser so to me PAS levels are a necessity. I custom program the BBHSD for cruise control. My favorite speed/cadence is 15 mph. I've programmed the controller to add power if the speed drops below that (like going up a country hill) and cut back/off power at speeds above 15 mph (like going down the backside of the hill). I just pedal and the BBHSD adds and takes away assist/power automatically based on the wind and hills. I don't even have to think about it. For a long 50 mile country cruise I couldn't imagine hanging on the throttle all the time but that's just my style of riding.

I have a KTLCD8 display. It seems that the display is designed for hubs with some gear reduction, but I have a direct drive hub. I’m not sure how to setup the parameters. I have P1 (gear reduction x magnets in motor) set to 70 right now, bike seems to ride fine, but the motor does make a grinding noise. The noise is consistent regardless of how the parameters are adjusted, so I’m pretty sure it’s just the controller. I read another post about reading the poles with a multimeter, but that’s a little out of my electrical skill level. The hub is mounted to a 26” x 4” rim. It’s a generic hub from Amazon that has no markings on it, rated for 1500w.

Thanks for help.

Ebike92119 said:

I have a KTLCD8 display. It seems that the display is designed for hubs with some gear reduction, but I have a direct drive hub. I’m not sure how to setup the parameters. I have P1 (gear reduction x magnets in motor) set to 70 right now, bike seems to ride fine, but the motor does make a grinding noise.

Click to expand...

The noise likely isn't related. The gear reduction for direct drive is 1, and number of magnets, for a 9C clone is 46 (23 pole pairs). What motor do you have?

Good info, some I’ll set it to 46? Unsure of the brand, but I’ll post a link below.







AW Electric Bicycle 26" Rear Wheel 48V 1500W EBike Conversion Kit 4" Fat Tire Cycling Hub Motor LCD Display PAS System https://a.co/d/fyelKOz

Ebike92119 said:

Good info, some I’ll set it to 46? Unsure of the brand, but I’ll post a link below.







AW Electric Bicycle 26" Rear Wheel 48V 1500W EBike Conversion Kit 4" Fat Tire Cycling Hub Motor LCD Display PAS System https://a.co/d/fyelKOz

Click to expand...

Ya, try 46, should work. If it's a fat tire, then you probably have to mess with the tire diameter setting to get the speed to read correctly. I think fat 26" tires are close to 29"