QS-205 5000W kit Error 30H

Vikingimike01

100 mW
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Messages
48
Hello. I have a RisunMotor 5000W kit, and the display shows Error 30H. I checked the connections, they should be OK. It's also showing a little blue engine icon over it, and the wheel is not spinning. I don't know what could be wrong with it.

750c Display
 
Make sure the colors match from the motor to the controller. One mixed can cause your situation to occur.
 
Red, green, blue. All connected to the corresponding colors. Also, theres 2 hall sensor cables comming out. I tried plugging in both. Still, Error 30H, and a blue engine icon over it. Wheel does not spin. Connected Pedal Assist. Still.
 
Okay. I read up on this a lot more. I see battery voltage, so the controller is probably getting electricity. What else can I check?
 
Let me add: I have wired 2 batteries in SERIES before by mistake, so I gave it 160-164 volts. They replaced the controller. Any other parts could be damaged?
 
Hello! I'm back here, because I really need to fix this, the whole setup was about 2000$.

I checked the connection from the controller to the display. The order of wires are: Yellow, Green, Black, Orange, Red. But on the display the wires are Yellow, Green, Black, Blue, Red.
So on the display instead of an orange wire theres a blue one but it connects with a pin. Same order though. The pins are not bent, everything is connected very nicely. I tried plugging in everything they had in the kit, and then unplugging them 1 by one, and then putting them back together. No matter what I do Error 30.

Theres no water inside the display. The controller should be new, the seller replaced it. What else do I check?? I am messaging the seller, but the wait for 1 reply is about a day, since the timezone differences. So it will be a VERY slow process.
 
You don’t need a display to test the motor running. Plug only what is needed to run the motor. Controller to battery, switching circuit ON, controller halls and phases to the motor, and a throttle. Now, if it doesn’t turn when twisting the throttle and you have no testing facilities, try changing the phase color match. If it doesn’t do any sign of power switching, at least a small kick of the motor, you will have to get yourself a multimeter and start testing.
 
If you have the bluetooth dongle, this video may help:

https://youtu.be/nsnkojI1ghE

However if you sent upwards of 160v through the system, any component that normally sees full pack voltage could now be suspect I'd imagine.
 
Hello. I don't have a bluetooth dongle thing.

The seller says the kit needs the display. And I have no idea why it doesn't work. It does not turn tho. Again it's supposed to be a communication error between the display and the controller.. and it can mean the controller won't run the engine. Stupid, right? Anyways.

How do I change the phase color? the 3 very thick wires that connect to the controller? Do I switch those up? No small kicking currently. There are 2 hall sensors, 1 backup. I have a multimeter, but like not a digital one. Can I do any testing with that? If yes what do I need to test?
 
If you have a comm error with the display, you’d better try running the motor with the display unplugged. Too bad you don’t have any other comm options (bluetooth or RS232), because the controller may need to be set in the program. There has to be a switching circuit, a wire that powers the controller. It can be going to the throttle if it has a switch, or going to the display if the switch is there. You just need to switch this wire to the + battery current.

The phases are the 3 big wires going to the motor. They are not always color match, neither the halls. Blue may have to plug on the green, etc... it is common that we have to find the proper combination to match a controller with the motor.

First things to test are: the 5v circuit of the controller (acc, ebrake, throttle, halls red...), the halls circuit alternate signal when the motor rotates. If the controller does supply current on the halls and phases when throttle is applied, then it is only a matter of finding the proper color match combo for halls and phases.
 
MadRhino said:
If you have a comm error with the display, you’d better try running the motor with the display unplugged. Too bad you don’t have any other comm options (bluetooth or RS232), because the controller may need to be set in the program. There has to be a switching circuit, a wire that powers the controller. It can be going to the throttle if it has a switch, or going to the display if the switch is there. You just need to switch this wire to the + battery current.

The phases are the 3 big wires going to the motor. They are not always color match, neither the halls. Blue may have to plug on the green, etc... it is common that we have to find the proper combination to match a controller with the motor.

First things to test are: the 5v circuit of the controller (acc, ebrake, throttle, halls red...), the halls circuit alternate signal when the motor rotates. If the controller does supply current on the halls and phases when throttle is applied, then it is only a matter of finding the proper color match combo for halls and phases.

I'll try today soon with the display unplugged, doubt that it will work. I'll try anyways.
So. I have seperate wires for EVERYTHING. The wires to the controller have 5 colors, as stated. The throtthe has no button. The display has a small thingy that slips on next to it, that has a power button that turns the whole thing on, a menu button trough wich you can set options, and an up and down button for stepping trough options, assist levels.

First, how do I check the 5v circuit? I don't wanna take my controller apart again, but the wires comming out I can test.
So, what should I test exactly? Test voltage/current on the 3 big wires, and the hall sensor from the controller? If I have to test the halls, wich colours do I check? Red and black (if there are any)?
 
The manual for your 750c display can be found here:

http://www.aptdevelop.com/Public/Upload/59b62da5673c5.pdf

Note on page 13, the brown wire on the display carries the FULL battery voltage.

Considering the max battery voltage is 52v (nominal, but it still probably wouldn't handle over 100v), if you put in triple that, odds are the display unit is Fubar'ed as well.

I'm surprised that if you admitted you made the mistake, the supplier would be willing to replace. That's great customer service.
 
This is the EXACT same display that I have. The 750C. But mine is for 72 volts too, you can set it in display settings, and yeah. I put 160 volts trough it.... So it carries the full voltage? Oh god. Surprised it still turns on, and works. To be fair, the odometer part flashes sometimes (like the settings you can set it to trip lenght, how many kilometers you went so far, or average speed) and sometimes like a white window plops down on it. So in theory, it should be the display that's shot only, right?
 
Thats a fair guess.

If the controller has already been replaced, ther's not much else that cops the full voltage unless something fails closed rather than fails open.

Always a chance, but its rare.
 
Hey! The display was replaced. No more flashing. It's still showing up as Error 30H. The controller had the cables kind of pulled out from the side the display cable is in. I shipped the controller back for the second time now. Should be back in a couple of weeks. Anything else I should check after?
 
I have the same unit and you have to have the display to turn it on and there is a 3 wire plug with the display that you have to unplug to program it and I get that error on the screen when I unplug it to do the programming and it turns off when I re connect the 3 wire plug I think it's yellow brown and red on the controller end and goes to the display
 
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