cyclone controller help- 3 speed wiring

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Feb 6, 2019
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I've seen a lot of posts about the three speed switch on the cyclone controller and connecting the pink wire to ground to "unlock" it, but I haven't found one that really answers my question. I'm using a middrive cyclone motor, and in "normal" mode, when I want maximum acceleration, I have to shift gears a couple hundred rpm before the max speed or else there's a reduction in torque. For example, my bike will do 19 mph in first gear, but after 15 mph, the bike stops pulling as hard and I need to shift up. I tried riding in the "unlocked" mode today and the torque just seemed to fall off again after 15 mph or so, kind of like a turbocharged car after 6000 rpm. I didn't get a chance to ride it for too long though, so I'm not exactly sure if I was just imagining it. What I want to do is change my front sprocket and lower my gearing and ride in "unlocked" mode for better acceleration, but I'm not sure if there's any point now if the torque just falls off at the same point in "normal" mode. For those who have this controller, what is your experience with this? Is it worth lowering my gearing and riding in "unlocked" mode?
 
Anyone know? There's a lot of people running the highest speed on their cyclone controller right? Or atleast I'm guessing
 
Torque naturally rolls off at the top of the motor's power band. In a mid drive, if you extend the RPM by throwing more voltage at it, you make the cadence faster, then you can't pedal with it anymore, so that's generally not the best way to go.

A mid drive is meant to be shifted. That's the reason people buy them, because they are as hell aren't cheap or reliable like hub motors are. If you want something that goes fast without shifting gears, you really bought the wrong kind of kit.
 
Electric motors all have a torque curve that rolls off substantially as RPMs build. The cyclone is a weak crappy motor so the torque rolls off very fast indeed.
 
neptronix said:
Torque naturally rolls off at the top of the motor's power band. In a mid drive, if you extend the RPM by throwing more voltage at it, you make the cadence faster, then you can't pedal with it anymore, so that's generally not the best way to go.

A mid drive is meant to be shifted. That's the reason people buy them, because they are as hell aren't cheap or reliable like hub motors are. If you want something that goes fast without shifting gears, you really bought the wrong kind of kit.

oh no, I love shifting gears that's the reason I got a middrive. I just wanted more acceleration, and the controller has a three speed switch. What I wanted to know is if the torque stays on for longer in the "high speed" position. For example, in normal mode, torque falls off at 15 mph for me in first gear. In high speed mode, if torque falls off only after say 18 mph in first gear, I can change my front sprocket size to take advantage of that and improve my acceleration. If torque falls off again at 15 mph even in ''highspeed" mode, there's no point in the extra rpm
'
 
flat tire said:
Electric motors all have a torque curve that rolls off substantially as RPMs build. The cyclone is a weak crappy motor so the torque rolls off very fast indeed.

So does putting the controller in the "high speed" setting make the torque roll off later? Or does it still roll off at the same point?
 
speedyebikenoob said:
flat tire said:
Electric motors all have a torque curve that rolls off substantially as RPMs build. The cyclone is a weak crappy motor so the torque rolls off very fast indeed.

So does putting the controller in the "high speed" setting make the torque roll off later? Or does it still roll off at the same point?

The torque will get even weaker but the rpm will continue to rise 10-12% or so. This lets you use a shorter gear for the same top speed, making the down low power more impressive. Mid range or top end torque will not change at all in high speed mode, which is really just flux weakening renamed.
 
Tommm said:
speedyebikenoob said:
flat tire said:
Electric motors all have a torque curve that rolls off substantially as RPMs build. The cyclone is a weak crappy motor so the torque rolls off very fast indeed.

So does putting the controller in the "high speed" setting make the torque roll off later? Or does it still roll off at the same point?

The torque will get even weaker but the rpm will continue to rise 10-12% or so. This lets you use a shorter gear for the same top speed, making the down low power more impressive. Mid range or top end torque will not change at all in high speed mode, which is really just flux weakening renamed.

So there's basically no point acceleration-wise using this mode and lowering the gearing? I thought as much, would have preferred the reverse with torque increasing as rpms go up, guess you can't have that though :(
 
speedyebikenoob said:
Tommm said:
speedyebikenoob said:
flat tire said:
Electric motors all have a torque curve that rolls off substantially as RPMs build. The cyclone is a weak crappy motor so the torque rolls off very fast indeed.

So does putting the controller in the "high speed" setting make the torque roll off later? Or does it still roll off at the same point?

The torque will get even weaker but the rpm will continue to rise 10-12% or so. This lets you use a shorter gear for the same top speed, making the down low power more impressive. Mid range or top end torque will not change at all in high speed mode, which is really just flux weakening renamed.

So there's basically no point acceleration-wise using this mode and lowering the gearing? I thought as much, would have preferred the reverse with torque increasing as rpms go up, guess you can't have that though :(

That would be free power and there is no free power. You can shunt mod the controller a bit if your battery can handle it.
 
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