Efforts, rebuilds and upgrades Stromer ST1,ST1x etc

FiberOptic

100 µW
Joined
Sep 28, 2019
Messages
8
Hello I've spent about year to research how Stromer ST of first generations (36V battery) can be upgraded.
I have received here in Russia some frames from USA friend partialy disassembled.
Here main futures
-The initial config is heavy and slow. Internal controller in motor hub integrated is too weak and non relaible.
- Frame itself is good and capable to make good rebuild.
- It want eat highways miles, with agressive fast PAS riding up for 1kw power in peak, 500W in constant avarage. and 45-50km/h cruise speed. It is not "e-moto" bike or recreational comfort 25-30-kmh in parks riding etc.

Light easy upgrades:
- Crankset have to be replaced to more light and prof. Shimano Octalink type with 118-121 axis length. Or even Hollotech triple. shimano 105 black triple looks very cool. and it will save 0.4 kg . chain ring is 56-58T for adecvate speed maintain in PAS.IMG_7513.jpg
- seatpost is 34.9 without shim. And use good seatpost 34.9! For example Fizik Cyrano that cheap at auctions.
IMG_7516.jpg
Average upgrades.
-26" wheels with large tires looks still good for live but better way- to upgrade 27.5". you see it will take tires up to 2.00 width.
also I have experince to upgrade to 700cх40с but need replace own fenders
IMG_20170606_52.JPG

Rebuilds:
Discover it's TDCM motor has physical maximum speed at 36V - 35km/h only and 30km/h with riding. it is not depend even of controller and "max speed hackings" at display. stromer controller is weak and has 350W and 500W "sometimes" max power.
If you wnat to leave this good motor (but with no bad controller)- One way - remove controller, as was shown here in "classic" exellent link https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63809&p=1044028&hilit=two+stromer+hacking#p1044028 .
Then Use external controller and encrease voltage.
And this way open window to very interesting work and time spend. :p
1. battery compartment is capable to hold not 50 pcs 18650 cells as original - but 75+ pcs 18650 cells Plus 1500W controller! :bolt: . Just need to remove doors down hardware (and safe 0.8kg), use more simple down latch but leave upper latch key.
IMG_7517.jpg
battery builds in semi-O profile. 5p15s - 63V in max. so it will make 63km/h for free power. and about 50 km/h for real max
speed. If use 18650 3500mah cells will reach exact 1000Wh battery in this small frame.
The controllers I tried is KT type with LCD3/6 - more cheap than infenion (do not like infenion for price). KT type controllers is good. It is 35A controller so called as Mark I. It has max voltage of 57v and some overheat one chip at 63V - so have to make additional cooling of it. And one bonus of this controller - it can power on-off headlight 2W and rear light electronically without key.
to place it to frame need some metall work takes no more time :D IMG_7510.jpg
Important notice - you have to press firm it frame body down but nuts - to heat conduct to frame. it is 1500W controller!.
can be used " natural" holes шт in this controller that press transistors to body. condustive heat past will help also.
IMG_7519.jpg

So this SYSTEM with new controller and new 15S battery will rotate old own TDCM DD motor-hub after wheel rebuild. or ANY new motor you choose. Old motor-hub as good, powerfull but very heavvy. New geared motor like geared MAC will safe 3kg weight!
all these efforts not final not ideal. just wanted to show what happens if move this way.

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IMG_7514.jpgIMG_7515.jpgP1160548.JPGIMG_6435.jpgIMG_7511.jpgIMG_6831.jpg
 

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just note - with factory setup 50T front chain ring you can ride in PAS 12x50T gear confing up to 35km/h, no more.
so I do not know what mean for factory setup "max speed 45kmh" if mean with throttle - the factory controller is 500W max, that correspond the same max 35km/h.
Thus, the change the front chain ring to 58T is very important to ride on it.
 
Wow very Nice rebuilds! Excellent works.

I couldn't find the exat controller you are using. What controller should i get, with integrated light ?

There where two Versions of the ST1

P48: with a 500W Controller a max Speed of 45-50kmh and a gear config of 50T front and 11x36T back, which gives a high cadence at max speed but still ok

P33: with a 350W Controller and max 25-30kmh, gear config was 50T for the biggest front and 13x36T back

Then there where times where things got messed up and they shipped 350W Motors with 50kmh Software and i was also told that there was a shortage of the 11T casette so they mounted the 13T on the P48
 
Hello I've spent about year to research how Stromer ST of first generations (36V battery) can be upgraded.
I have received here in Russia some frames from USA friend partialy disassembled.
Here main futures
-The initial config is heavy and slow. Internal controller in motor hub integrated is too weak and non relaible.
- Frame itself is good and capable to make good rebuild.
- It want eat highways miles, with agressive fast PAS riding up for 1kw power in peak, 500W in constant avarage. and 45-50km/h cruise speed. It is not "e-moto" bike or recreational comfort 25-30-kmh in parks riding etc.

Light easy upgrades:
- Crankset have to be replaced to more light and prof. Shimano Octalink type with 118-121 axis length. Or even Hollotech triple. shimano 105 black triple looks very cool. and it will save 0.4 kg . chain ring is 56-58T for adecvate speed maintain in PAS.View attachment 260027
- seatpost is 34.9 without shim. And use good seatpost 34.9! For example Fizik Cyrano that cheap at auctions.
View attachment 260028
Average upgrades.
-26" wheels with large tires looks still good for live but better way- to upgrade 27.5". you see it will take tires up to 2.00 width.
also I have experince to upgrade to 700cх40с but need replace own fenders
View attachment 260029

Rebuilds:
Discover it's TDCM motor has physical maximum speed at 36V - 35km/h only and 30km/h with riding. it is not depend even of controller and "max speed hackings" at display. stromer controller is weak and has 350W and 500W "sometimes" max power.
If you wnat to leave this good motor (but with no bad controller)- One way - remove controller, as was shown here in "classic" exellent link Hacking a Couple Stromers .
Then Use external controller and encrease voltage.
And this way open window to very interesting work and time spend. :p
1. battery compartment is capable to hold not 50 pcs 18650 cells as original - but 75+ pcs 18650 cells Plus 1500W controller! :bolt: . Just need to remove doors down hardware (and safe 0.8kg), use more simple down latch but leave upper latch key.
View attachment 260030
battery builds in semi-O profile. 5p15s - 63V in max. so it will make 63km/h for free power. and about 50 km/h for real max
speed. If use 18650 3500mah cells will reach exact 1000Wh battery in this small frame.
The controllers I tried is KT type with LCD3/6 - more cheap than infenion (do not like infenion for price). KT type controllers is good. It is 35A controller so called as Mark I. It has max voltage of 57v and some overheat one chip at 63V - so have to make additional cooling of it. And one bonus of this controller - it can power on-off headlight 2W and rear light electronically without key.
to place it to frame need some metall work takes no more time :D View attachment 260031
Important notice - you have to press firm it frame body down but nuts - to heat conduct to frame. it is 1500W controller!.
can be used " natural" holes шт in this controller that press transistors to body. condustive heat past will help also.
View attachment 260032

So this SYSTEM with new controller and new 15S battery will rotate old own TDCM DD motor-hub after wheel rebuild. or ANY new motor you choose. Old motor-hub as good, powerfull but very heavvy. New geared motor like geared MAC will safe 3kg weight!
all these efforts not final not ideal. just wanted to show what happens if move this way.

View attachment 260034
View attachment 260035View attachment 260036View attachment 260037View attachment 260038View attachment 260039View attachment 260041
With your bike with the front hub motor, what hub did you use on the back instead of the TDCM? Mainly I want to know how to get an axle long enough. Or did you just squeeze in the frame? Thanks and great work!
 
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