jb weld torque arms

im playing with my torque arms. I cant fasten them to the outside of the drop outs with out the motor falling off. I was able to mount one on the chain side in between the freewheel and bolted to the drop out area. disc brake side I need to file the axle so the torque arm goes toward the motor 1/4 inch and then it will bolt to drop out. on that side I just might make a torque plate instead because I keep flaring out torque arms. has anyone jb welded the arms or plates to the axles.

basically I want to jb weld the torque arms or plates to the axle, bolt everything solidly to the swing arm and let the jb weld cure

Yeah I did that.

Jb weld still cracked when the bike slid on the derailer.. Tough derailer though, bent the hanger...

The metal Tq arm is stronger than jb weld or epoxy with cabosil in it. Cracked right off.

jb weld is soft. it won't do anything to resist torque or to prevent rotation of axle inside too-large or wrong-shape holes.

doctorbass has a thread about an epoxy used to glue torque plates to frames if the frame is properly prepared, to secure the arm to the frame, and that works, but jbweld isn't sufficient for that purpose, either.

the epoxy he used wouldn't work for gluing the arm to the axle to prevent rotation, either.


if you're having trouble with the holes opening up, then you need more precisely fitting holes.

or you need clamping / pinching dropouts.

or your axle itself is soft and is being damaged and allowing the start of a spin in the hole, then damaging the hole itself because it's too soft too.

see the torque-arm picture thread for lots of ideas on how to make / modify your own to work better.

Maybe post a picture of your situation and perhaps someone will have a good idea for you. I agree with Amberwolf on the JB Weld. I've done testing with JB Weld and some other toughened epoxies (West System's G/Flex and a Brampton epoxy for golf shafts) in a fashion similar to the Dr Bass video. The results weren't nearly as good as his. I'm a big fan of using epoxy for lots of stuff. But i'd be very hesitant to use one on a torque arm.

Dr. Bass used a very expensive 3M epoxy (DP 420) and had a very large surface area for his torque arms. So that's a pretty special case.

[youtube]G6oLx4FjPVg[/youtube]

wturber said:

Maybe post a picture of your situation and perhaps someone will have a good idea for you. I agree with Amberwolf on the JB Weld. I've done testing with JB Weld and some other toughened epoxies (West System's G/Flex and a Brampton epoxy for golf shafts) in a fashion similar to the Dr Bass video. The results weren't nearly as good as his. I'm a big fan of using epoxy for lots of stuff. But i'd be very hesitant to use one on a torque arm.

Dr. Bass used a very expensive 3M epoxy (DP 420) and had a very large surface area for his torque arms. So that's a pretty special case.

[youtube]G6oLx4FjPVg[/youtube]

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I think im going to have to make clamping torque arm/plates, Ive quit using regen til I do. torque arm picture thread is very good.
once the axle gets a little damage from a torque arm it will continue to happen and flare out a new torque arm so I thought maybe jb weld could fill the damage to keep them solidly in place.

Filing the axle shoulder is not unusual task to make a fit, but best is to make precise dropout plates that are setting the motor neat and centered as is.

For this purpose it is required with some frames/motors combos, to make extended dropouts with integrated brake and derailer mounts. There are many advantages to this method: extended wheelbase does stabilize the bike in acceleration, it does let you make the perfect center fit for the motor and proper spacing for the brake, it does give you plenty of options to bolt the custom dropout plates to the actual dropouts of the bike, and it does let you adjust the height for any wheel size or geometry that you wish.