gorilla glue epoxy/hall sensor

goatman

10 MW
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
3,179
Location
Surrey, B.C.
In general, an epoxy that takes a few hours to cure will work for high temperatures. But a 10 min hard epoxy will be melting at lower temps.

Anything that says you can fix an engine block is high temp enough.
 
i just use plain old generic superglue.

the only problem it might have in most motors is that it will dissolve in water over time, if you ride in wet locations.

i don't know what it does at really high temperatures, but i don't run my stuff that hard.
 
motomech said:
I use JB Weld.

+1 on the JB Weld. That is what I have used to good success. The original one with one black an one white tube.

You could try a drop of hi-temp epoxy.

From what I have seen, generic motors use lamination shellac to keep the Hall in place or they are mounted on a pc board.

I would go with JB weld.


Edit:jbweld.PNG

:D :bolt:
 
JBweld is good, but not any JBweld. High heat is the one you need.
jbweldcom_575240777.jpg


Any other brand of epoxy will do, as long as it is spec high heat. 3M #2214 and JBweld High Heat are best and easy to source.

Best hall sensors are Honeywell.
 
I used super glue as well and it's fine so far, id recommend using a decent brand like scotch or gorilla glue though since it might hold upto high temps better than generic stuff
 
goatman said:
ive had a blown hall sensor for awhile. went to my shelf and all I have is gorilla epoxy, will that work for the hall sensor?

Any epoxy should stand up to heat.
Bubble gum could work, as it dries up nicely.
Instant Glue might be able to stand up to heat.
Plumbers putty.
Doing it right, epoxy!


https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html
Click on - Repairing a defective hall sensor
 
MadRhino said:
JBweld is good, but not any JBweld. High heat is the one you need.

Any other brand of epoxy will do, as long as it is spec high heat. 3M #2214 and JBweld High Heat are best and easy to source.
Regular JB Weld has pretty much the same temperature limit - 550 degrees F. It may even be slightly better. The High Heat is a putty, so maybe that's easier to work with.
https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-twin-tube

I've become a fan of West Systems G/Flex but it is only good to about 200 degrees F. That's probably good enough for the way I run my motors, but I think I'd prefer something else if I were really heating motors up. Likewise, the other toughened epoxy that I like is Brampton Pro Flex 20/20 Long Cure and it is only reliable to 180 degrees F. So one of those two JB welds seems like the way to go to me.
 
MadRhino said:
The putty has an advantage: it doesn’t shrink in hardening.

Regular JB Weld does not shrink either.

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/JB_Weld/JB-Weld-Technical-Datasheet.pdf
 
MadRhino said:
The putty has an advantage: it doesn’t shrink in hardening.

I saw the lunch baggy magnet trick to keep the hall in place while it sets. ill try the putty if I can find it. ive never done a hall but it sounds like putty wouldn't be as messy as regular jb weld when getting the hall seated.

I bought 3 Honeywell halls from grin months ago just to have on hand
 
Back
Top