Question about a recumbent trike build

I have a Catrike Expedition with 135 rear drop out for 26 inch wheel. I'm trying to find a 500 watt hubmotor that will take a 10 speed cassette (NOT freewheel) and fit in the dropouts. Might be willing to go with less wattage if that means it'll fit in the dropouts and I'm aware that I can add a spacer on the drive side to get the depth on the axle for the cassette. I figure with 10 speed gearing I probably won't have speed problems (grin). Anyone know of anything that would come close/fit the bill?
On a steel frame, I wouldn't hesitate to bend the dropouts a bit for width, but with this being aluminum, I really, really don't want to do that if it's at all avoidable. I already have a solution to avoid spinout of the axle.
I'm figuring on pairing it with a Baserunner and a flat battery and a Cycle Analyst.
If anyone knows where to find one of these unicorns-I'd sure appreciate a point in the right direction.
Thanks.
Just found this: http://www.mxusebikekit.com/mo/proshow.aspx?cateid=152&productsid=294
MXUS MX01C anyone know much about these?

Why not a mid drive like a BBS02B, BBSHD (both without torque sensor) or a TSDZ2 with torque sensor and open source firmware support here on E-S: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788

Take a look at the motors Grin Tech has available.

https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motors/rear.html

I used the GMAC when I put an electric drive on my Scorpion, and it seems to be working well. Not a cheap motor.

wyvernwaddell said:

I have a Catrike Expedition with 135 rear drop out for 26 inch wheel. I'm trying to find a 500 watt hubmotor that will take a 10 speed cassette (NOT freewheel) and fit in the dropouts.

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https://www.amazon.com/BAFANG-Cassette-Brushless-Electric-Conversion/dp/B07PZT3PK7

Have a plan for what to do if your cassette freehub craps out, because these are not normal freehubs. They're likely to be a lot less reliable than the usual kind, and not obtainable by your local bike service shop.

Thanks, y'all-I've thought about a BBS02 or BBSHD also, but wasn't sure the weight on the boom would be ok. I haven't had a chance to do a lot of research yet as this is just in the planning stages at the moment. Judging from the number of builds I've seen with those just in the past couple of hours...I'm going to assume weight won't be an issue.
How are the cassettes different on the cassette hubmotors? Are they prone to breaking? I've never owned one, so I have nothing to base an opinion on. All my stuff is either direct drive hubmotor or geared hubmotor. I built this about 2014, been riding it ever since.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZvUMw7BWDhNrBpio9
This is going to be a new thing for me, so I figured I'd ask the folks that know Thank you for the advice.
Just looked at a GMAC..damn that motor looks nice

wyvernwaddell said:

How are the cassettes different on the cassette hubmotors? Are they prone to breaking? I've never owned one, so I have nothing to base an opinion on.

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Cassette freehubs were originally designed for pedal bike hubs with 10mm axles, to rectify the problems that arose with 10mm axles, so that’s the largest diameter that can fit through a traditional and proven freehub. 12mm thru-axles are the new hotness in high-end bikes these days, and not surprisingly, the freehub bodies designed to pass 12mm axles through them are less reliable and have more problems than the old standard kind.

Rear hub motors have typically had 15-20mm bearings on their axles, and axle ends of 15-19mm where they pass through the freewheel. This doesn’t work for cassette freehubs, so cassette hub motors have reduced diameter axles where they must pass through the freehub body. This results in a weaker and more failure-prone axle, but it does not restore the freehub to a design that is proven to work. They still have much less room for the ratchet pawls and bearings, or they must move the pawls inboard under the sidecover (encroaching on other motor parts), or both.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=88640

One of the advantages of using a freewheel on a hub motor is that it’s a perfectly ordinary freewheel, just like all the others that have been used and refined on bicycles for over a century. But a cassette freehub on a hub motor, because it has more constraints on the space it can occupy, isn’t the same as an ordinary cassette freehub that has been commonly used on pedal bikes since the late 1980s. It’s a novel design made by shoestring Chinese manufacturers. Will it work? Well... try it and see.

My MAC 10T has over 5000 trouble free miles.

I see the occasional post from Catrike owners going to an electric motor, on the bentrideronline.com forum, and a lot of the time they go with a crank drive like BBS02 or TDSZ2. That isn't to say that proves anything - they're mighty attracted to the "Copenhagen Wheel", too. I just mention it to pose the question: which would be more be more reliable in terms of just the external bicycle parts - a crank drive, or a hub with a cassette and 12mm axle? Without any experience or data to go on, I bet a quarter it's the hub motor.

Also note that the GMAC appears to use a 10mm axle.

wyvernwaddell said:

I have a Catrike Expedition with 135 rear drop out for 26 inch wheel. I'm trying to find a 500 watt hubmotor that will take a 10 speed cassette (NOT freewheel) and fit in the dropouts. Might be willing to go with less wattage if that means it'll fit in the dropouts and I'm aware that I can add a spacer on the drive side to get the depth on the axle for the cassette. I figure with 10 speed gearing I probably won't have speed problems (grin).

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There are quite a few 500w hub motor options with freehubs that will support 8/9 speed cassettes.
Why not get one of those and stack the cassette with gearing that gives you cadance/speed combination you are looking for?

pullin-gs said:

There are quite a few 500w hub motor options with freehubs that will support 8/9 speed cassettes.

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8-, 9-, and 10-speed Shimano Hyperglide pattern cassettes all fit on the same size freehub body.

Balmorhea said:

pullin-gs said:

There are quite a few 500w hub motor options with freehubs that will support 8/9 speed cassettes.

Click to expand...

8-, 9-, and 10-speed Shimano Hyperglide pattern cassettes all fit on the same size freehub body.

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Yes...but there is a caveat....especially if using a mid-drive:
A 10-speed cassette on an 8/9-speed freehub body will cause dents to form in the freehub body (because the 10-speed cogs are so narrow). The 10-speed freehub bodies have taller splines, so they avoid this problem.

PS: 500W hub motors can be had with 8-9 speed freehubs.....have never seen a 10sp.

pullin-gs said:

Balmorhea said:

8-, 9-, and 10-speed Shimano Hyperglide pattern cassettes all fit on the same size freehub body.

Click to expand...

Yes...but there is a caveat....especially if using a mid-drive:
A 10-speed cassette on an 8/9-speed freehub body will cause dents to form in the freehub body (because the 10-speed cogs are so narrow). .

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That's only a problem with aluminum freehub splines.

Maybe you're thinking of Campagnolo pattern cassette splines, which are deeper than Shimano splines. Shimano made deeper 10-speed Hyperglide splines (from 2004 to 2007) for the high priced Dura Ace group, so they could use an aluminum freehub body. But in 2008, they switched back, and since then (and for all other product lines) Shimano 8/9/10 speed Hyperglide is the same freehub spline.

Balmorhea said:

That's only a problem with aluminum freehub splines.

Maybe you're thinking of Campagnolo pattern cassette splines, which are deeper than Shimano splines. Shimano made deeper 10-speed Hyperglide splines (from 2004 to 2007) for the high priced Dura Ace group, so they could use an aluminum freehub body. But in 2008, they switched back, and since then (and for all other product lines) Shimano 8/9/10 speed Hyperglide is the same freehub spline.

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I chose Hyperglide not for 10S (My groupset is 9sp) but because of the various range in gearing options that Hyperglide offers.
With a 9SP 11x36T I was able to dump my stock front 3X crankset and upgraded to an SRAM 1x 44T narrow-wide for my e-trike. I kid you not I was able to shave off almost 2 lbs by tweaking my drivetrain.
Here in Florida I have not missed a beet under e-power or even when I swap back to an un-powered wheel (I mainly ride for fitness).
I liked my e-trike 1X setup so much that I did the same mod for my road bike when I upgraded to 11SP carbon wheels last Spring.
Very happy w/Hyperglide. 10S on 8-9 speed freehubs is great. How did Shimano manage to get that to work? Are the big-rings offset?

pullin-gs said:

10S on 8-9 speed freehubs is great. How did Shimano manage to get that to work? Are the big-rings offset?

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The made the sprockets and spacers thinner, so the whole stack fits on the same length splines. There being no free lunch, 10 speed is finickier and less tolerant of wear and imprecision than 9 speed.