Walmart Hyper e-ride: Controller Swap Suggestions

Joined
Oct 23, 2020
Messages
15
Ordered a pair of these 2 days ago. Bikes havent arrived yet and already I want to make DIY changes. I seek your wisdom!

Its the Hyper e-ride mountain bike. 36v 7.8ah 250w rear hub.

Lets change to a controller that will: give me integrated lights, a twist throttle, a decent display. This bike stock has none of those features.

If the battery will allow, Id like to pump more power to that 250w hub - use as a 500w at least, but I need your opinions. I wont know if thats possible until its delivered and I can get the battery out to put on my multimeter and post images here.

I have a good soldering station, crimpers, multimeter etc.

I bought these bikes to get into the DIY aspect of the ebike hobby.

29in-hyper-e-ride-36-volt-mountain-bike-hard-tail_6.jpg

26in_Hyper_E-Ride_Mountain_MTB_1.jpg
 
I would start by buying the bike I want buying a bike of that nature with a small but battery and then trying to modify it. That small battery was made for that small controller.
I mean a $400 ebike is a $400 ebike.
 
Best to go 36V 20-30A and if the motor breaks then who cares, you can always use that bicycle frame for a better motor controller setup.

Should never buy cheap ebikes from department store, never!
If you were my friend, I would have suggested this:
Walmart bicycle $125
Yescomusa ebike kit $235 with free shipping
em3ev battery $340
Total cost $700 - You will have an ebike that is 10 times better, will last 10 times longer.
 
R1200GSjohn said:
I bought these bikes to get into the DIY aspect of the ebike hobby.

If you want to get the value you paid for, you should just ride them as-is until you wear out the battery before doing any conversions/upgrades. Otherwise you'll just end up replacing all of the "e" parts of the bike making them a terrible value. If you add a throttle with that battery, you'll probably only be able to ride it around for 20 minutes, so better to stick with PAS.
 
If you only paid the going rate of $398 per bike in walmart.com, it's a heck of a deal. Anyway, I think it's a good start. Your next build can be a monster bike if you want.

In 2015, I paid $280 for a 36V10AH pack and $200 for a 500W rear kit. It's got the same 810LED as your Hyper, and I had to supply my own Trek mountain bike. I still use it. The 810LED is good for 12 mph in pAS 1, 14 mph in PAS 2, and 16 mph in PAS4. Top speed on throttle with the 36V battery is 21-22 mph. It uses about 4AH per mile at 14 mph.

While I didn't change the 810LED on the above bike, the 3 level PAS is crude and I think it's worth changing to a 5 level system.It won't go any faster, but will help you match your casdence and speed better, Plus you get a throttle if you didn't have one.
 
I suggest that you try the bike and then decide what it needs. Some hubs rated at 250 watts have a much higher 'surge' power rating, while others are pretty much 250 watt hubs. If it seems like it has more power than it should, then decide if it's enough, or if you still want to upgrade the controller because of your other wants. If it's feeble, though, it's a crap shoot whether or not a more powerful controller will do anything for it...you don't want to turbocharge a Yugo.
 
docw009 said:
If you only paid the going rate of $398 per bike in walmart.com, it's a heck of a deal.

While I didn't change the 810LED on the above bike, the 3 level PAS is crude and I think it's worth changing to a 5 level system.It won't go any faster, but will help you match your casdence and speed better, Plus you get a throttle if you didn't have one.

Thanks for that info. Helpful insight. I've had the bikes 2 days and have done some miles. Ive pulled out the controller and had a look.

The 3 level selector is annoying. On the trails its either a bit too fast or a bit to slow. Level 1 to level 2 jump is huge and level 2 to level 3 seems too small. 5 levels would be great.

Having to charge the bikes and the usb rechargeable lights i put on is a spidersweb of wires. A controller with cables for front and rear lights would be great.

810 display has no speedo. Not major but would be nice.

The bike at this price is an unmitigated bargain. Rides well. Power hits smoothly, nicely. It's damn near silent. Bike seems well built. Rides well without power assist. Wow these lower tiers of shimano derailleurs have gotten nice (not very serviceable though so...)!

Id like to: swap for a better controller with a display + more levels, lighting connectors, thats programmable so that i can tey 500w to the motor (i have a dual battery connector on the way to deal with range).

What controller might work?
 

Attachments

  • 84b39b7c85b40f6b398734e05d2721a366d41fd0-14.jpg
    84b39b7c85b40f6b398734e05d2721a366d41fd0-14.jpg
    102.8 KB · Views: 4,990
  • e768b5569eadbc8d5908ffd36a00ef864674d8da-14.jpg
    e768b5569eadbc8d5908ffd36a00ef864674d8da-14.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 4,991
E-HP said:
What is your budget?

Depends on what id be getting. But im fine with a few hundred if the controller will allow for a motor and battery swap later. These won't be our only bikes. But i already want these changes. And the experience of changing them around myself.
 
R1200GSjohn said:
E-HP said:
What is your budget?

Depends on what id be getting. But im fine with a few hundred if the controller will allow for a motor and battery swap later. These won't be our only bikes. But i already want these changes. And the experience of changing them around myself.

You'd probably get more suggestions if you scrap the integrated light requirement.
 
E-HP said:
R1200GSjohn said:
E-HP said:
What is your budget?

Depends on what id be getting. But im fine with a few hundred if the controller will allow for a motor and battery swap later. These won't be our only bikes. But i already want these changes. And the experience of changing them around myself.

You'd probably get more suggestions if you scrap the integrated light requirement.

Alright.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/E-bike-Controller-36V-48V-KT-Controller-Latest-Sine-Wave-Dual-Mode-Controller-/254234300008

Are you trying to fit it into the same location as the existing controller? If so, dimensions would be helpful. Also, would you be OK with using your phone as a display? KT controllers often have a light output, but it doesn't provide enough current for most lights, so it would primarily be used to operate a relay that would power the lights. Also, you should explain what you mean by battery and motor upgrades.
 
Just ride and enjoy . Then buy a 52v 15ah battery a 1,500 watt kit for 236.00 and get back a used colmoly mtb for 100.00. a 30mph bike. Next project.
Just ride what you got. As a bigger controller will be harder on that little battery.
.
 
999zip999 said:
Just ride and enjoy . Then buy a 52v 15ah battery a 1,500 watt kit for 236.00 and get back a used colmoly mtb for 100.00. a 30mph bike. Next project.
Just ride what you got. As a bigger controller will be harder on that little battery.
.

Given that a few folks have provided this feedback, I think there's probably something else in play here.

Here's one example, but not necessarily the case here, but just a common strategy. Some people buy two ebikes, because they want an ebike, but the easiest way to make that fly is to get one for the spouse too, so "we can ride together". If you go that route, you have to get one that looks presentable, even if it's not too capable.

With this tactic, however, you need to invest in upgrading both bikes in order to eventually get the bike you want. Expensive way to go, but a lot of times it's not about the money, but about getting past the authorization. You gotta do what you gotta do. :shock:
 
You should all just give up your ebikes and ride normal bicycles, its a friggin' workout man, :lol: can't believe the peasantry still goes on. I've had it with my couple hrs of riding peasantry style today, sure it was only 4km and every pedal I seemed to get madder and madder, dreaming of throttle action.

I need parts asap to get my ebike going again,
168mm spokes, fat fork and 68mm bb and plates for m.d.
 
All great comments. I havent yet decided on a controller btw but I'm close.

Just like my motorcycles in the garage these bikes are very useful machines to get places with a higher fun factor than a car. Ive already run several errands for my business that i normally would have taken a motorcycle to or driven a car.

Like a motorcycle, modification and personalization is part of the fun. Now i know what i like and dont and what i care about and dont. Cheap front fork for example, until it breaks id never change it because, turns out, i dont care (except no disk mount option). Battery otoh: personally i want more ah so im going to get 2 of the 52v 20ah triangle in a bag batts that i can switch between these bikes and the mid drive gravel road bike I'm building. Id like a little more torque on these bikes so ill change the motor and controller and lace up my own wheels (which ive done for many motorcycles). Ill add a cheapo rear disk and put a ultegra rim brake i already have on front.

The result is: a pair of fun bikes for me and my significant other to bop around on and play with while i build a silly-fast weapon. 3 bikes, fun for me and i can have company when i want it. And still cheaper than a pair of Boltons or Lunas which WAS my original christmas plan. Im not changing the drive systems on 3500 bikes but i will go to town on 400 dollar bikes.
 
Phaserunner will easily fit in the space, works with voltages from 24V to 72V, and paired with a Cycle Analyst 3, you'll have plenty of upgrade potential/options. You can set the current limits so you don't kill your stock battery right away, but ready for upgrading to likely any level that you'll want to achieve on those bikes. Then, when you're ready, 1500W Leafbike motor to replace the 250.
 
R1200GSjohn said:

Well I didnt ride far today on my pedal bike, and I didnt see many ebikes at all. As a matter of fact, only saw one; some Bosch ripoff unit.
My sweat glands were jealous of the electrons.
 
E-HP said:
Phaserunner will easily fit in the space, works with voltages from 24V to 72V, and paired with a Cycle Analyst 3, you'll have plenty of upgrade potential/options. You can set the current limits so you don't kill your stock battery right away, but ready for upgrading to likely any level that you'll want to achieve on those bikes. Then, when you're ready, 1500W Leafbike motor to replace the 250.

Thanks so much for that. I'm reading through your build now. Really nice work. This is a helpful read.
 
E-HP said:
Phaserunner will easily fit in the space, works with voltages from 24V to 72V, and paired with a Cycle Analyst 3, you'll have plenty of upgrade potential/options. You can set the current limits so you don't kill your stock battery right away, but ready for upgrading to likely any level that you'll want to achieve on those bikes. Then, when you're ready, 1500W Leafbike motor to replace the 250.

Phaserunner goes up to 90v@100A peak
 
brazilianboy said:
E-HP said:
Phaserunner will easily fit in the space, works with voltages from 24V to 72V, and paired with a Cycle Analyst 3, you'll have plenty of upgrade potential/options. You can set the current limits so you don't kill your stock battery right away, but ready for upgrading to likely any level that you'll want to achieve on those bikes. Then, when you're ready, 1500W Leafbike motor to replace the 250.

Phaserunner goes up to 90v@100A peak
It can do 21S, but that's not really a common pack voltage. 20S (72V) is pretty standard though.
The 100A (96A) are phase amps, so moderate power, but good enough for the OP's application.
 
Back
Top