The Fork

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
Post Reply
markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

The Fork

Post by markz » Oct 31 2020 7:29pm

Such an odd format 120 or 125mm fork from costco fat bike.
Normal 1-1/8 with 7"
8 spokes broke on the 19x1.40 lacing back to normal bike 26


fork2.jpg
fork2.jpg (103.06 KiB) Viewed 732 times


fork1.jpg
fork1.jpg (102.13 KiB) Viewed 732 times


fork3.jpg
fork3.jpg (78.03 KiB) Viewed 732 times

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: The Fork

Post by markz » Nov 02 2020 8:33pm

Was a nice bike for rear hub on fork, the fatties cushioned the cracks in the path real nicely.
Cobbled together the ole Santiago for some cruising today. Getting back in the groove.

Ordered Sunlite 26" Rigid Fat Bike Fork 1-1/8" 275mm Threadless 135mm Front Disc Spacing
hopefully it gets here before the rear hub spokes start breaking and they will.


20201102_181112.jpg
20201102_181112.jpg (95.22 KiB) Viewed 664 times




Fun times!
Was going to put on a new specimen, a Trek 700x50C but didnt feel like messing with the new nice ride as its my only backup.
The 26 wheel would have fit good.
20201102_181127.jpg
20201102_181127.jpg (98.32 KiB) Viewed 664 times

miro13car   1 MW

1 MW
Posts: 1816
Joined: Mar 26 2007 1:30pm
Location: Calgary, Canada

Re: The Fork

Post by miro13car » Nov 03 2020 9:27am

what motor is on the rear wheel ?
Eplus, Bionx

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: The Fork

Post by markz » Nov 03 2020 12:59pm

miro13car wrote:
Nov 03 2020 9:27am
what motor is on the rear wheel ?
It is a rear Leaf 1500w hub, so fit nicely on a fat fork, had no issues with a rear hub being on the front as it lined up good.

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: The Fork and new ride

Post by markz » Nov 27 2020 10:47pm

I have not even ordered the Amazon Sunlite fat fork. I am keeping the fork as a memento. I find with the damaged fork, I would have guessed that the right hand side of the fork would be spread but its perfect, its the left side that has spread out. I was hit from my left side.

I am riding this now. Frame is XXL, 700x50C front, 26x2 rear. Going about half as fast as I used to since the accident. The rear rack is my hardcased battery 52V 14.5Ah Grintech not on in the pic, being charged up next to computer. That triangle battery should be 36V and about 28Ah but only has capacity of 15Ah due to degradation, that 15Ah nets me 20'ish km with a one geared cruiser, the trek I do more pedaling with so I will see what I get for total distance.




20201127_203306.jpg
20201127_203306.jpg (74.8 KiB) Viewed 508 times


20201127_203439.jpg
20201127_203439.jpg (81.63 KiB) Viewed 508 times

goatman   100 MW

100 MW
Posts: 2592
Joined: Jun 23 2019 6:50pm
Location: Surrey, B.C.

Re: The Fork

Post by goatman » Nov 28 2020 12:06pm

hop on a greyhound for the island. beginning to think you need 3 fat tires to carry your load :wink:

https://nanaimo.craigslist.org/bik/d/na ... 65798.html

999zip999   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 9858
Joined: Jan 10 2010 1:40pm
Location: Dana Point So. Cal

Re: The Fork

Post by 999zip999 » Nov 28 2020 2:59pm

Am I looking at that picture backwards why is your rear cluster on the wrong side and your disc brake is on the reverse side I don't remember seeing that

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: The Fork

Post by markz » Nov 29 2020 3:00am

999zip999 wrote:
Nov 28 2020 2:59pm
Am I looking at that picture backwards why is your rear cluster on the wrong side and your disc brake is on the reverse side I don't remember seeing that
The bicycle itself is upside down, the seat is out but would be on the ground. The chain is the giveaway, plus the Cyclone motor mount plates are on but I never installed on that bike as the plates need bend for 100mm bb.

999zip999   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 9858
Joined: Jan 10 2010 1:40pm
Location: Dana Point So. Cal

Re: The Fork

Post by 999zip999 » Nov 29 2020 5:51am

Ha ha you got me I thought I saw a seat stem coming out of the bottom bracket. :lol:

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: The Fork

Post by markz » Dec 02 2020 10:44pm

I was seriously thinking about buying this, it was at an auction.
2019 RAD POWER RAD ROVER 5 ELECTRIC FAT BIKE

I had a feeling it was going to go for near $1000, but I was willing to buy it for $500-$600 as I saw another bicycle at a pawn shop, similar styling, non ebike for $900 but maybe can get it for $600-$700. So you see where my thinking was going, if the battery was in decent condition I could have scored if that 2019 RAD POWER ROVER was $600 or $700. By the time I found the auction, signed up the bid was at $725 on Sunday.

That RAD ROVER 5 did not come with a charger, which would be $50 at the website below.
The final bid was yesterday at $975cdn which is far to much for that ebike. Brand new they are $1600 from https://www.radpowerbikes.com/products/ ... c-fat-bike

The small geared hub motor would be good to put on another bicycle, build as ebike and sell.
The battery, who knows what condition it would have been in.

Here take a look at the link and pictures if you want to, it will be a bad link in no time.
https://regalauctions.com/inventory.php ... ract=83627

Final bid.
https://regalauctions.com/index.php?a=o ... ales=90781
*Looks like it was a bidding war between 2 parties from the $725 mark.

goatman   100 MW

100 MW
Posts: 2592
Joined: Jun 23 2019 6:50pm
Location: Surrey, B.C.

Re: The Fork

Post by goatman » Dec 03 2020 10:41pm

i found the perfect bike for you Z, its a Rat Fink

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/bnc/bi ... 94417.html

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: The Fork

Post by markz » Dec 04 2020 5:52pm

Now that would make an excellent conversion to electric power.

144 spokes is good to have, so you can have 108 spokes break and still be rideable.

The ad never mentions how many gears it has in the back, so the best setup would be a 18kw mid drive kit. :D
goatman wrote:
Dec 03 2020 10:41pm
i found the perfect bike for you Z, its a Rat Fink

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/bnc/bi ... 94417.html

markz   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 11914
Joined: Jan 09 2014 11:38pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: The Fork

Post by markz » Dec 09 2020 12:48am

------------------December 08, 2020----------------------------------------------------------------

Can't buy a local fat fork, I tried.

Email conversation.
Hello I am look for a 135mm fat fork with normal quick release skewers and disk brake mount with 1-1/8 straight tube.
Are you able to obtain the fork, I see Sunlite sells one.
We have no source for these forks and Surly no longer makes them.
Sorry we can't help.
Amazon and ebay have some for $80 and $110 shipped.




------------------December 13, 2020----------------------------------------------------------------


The tire on the hub has some balding spots and a few spokes need replacing. Always repairing broken spokes, always thats just the way it is with me and rear hubs. People say you gotta build it right and you wont break spokes, I build em right, follow everything to the T. Alexrims, Sapim 13/14g spokes and nips, boiled linseed oil, destress all the way through then I baby the mofo and 2 wks later ping.

I liked the fat bike with the rear hub on the front I never had any issues. I may just go ahead and buy front Leaf 1500W but to expensive been keeping my eyes open for generic 1kw fronts and found a few with decent shipping prices on a few different sites, $250+$30cdn. Its funny how the markets ebbs and flows because Leaf upped their s/h price last year, not sure what it is now but others have lowered their s/h.

Part of the problem with this round of spoke repair is the rear derailleur got caught on some spokes and only broke 4 or 5, and bent the pulley gear housing back. Easy fix with using the lock screw on rd so it doesnt go to nearest gear to motor, biggest gear. I have scavanged a few spokes from a generic hub for my Leaf 1500W, same spoke size it looks like.

I've actually been thinking of how I can make my own cast-like wheel. A thought came to me as I was riding back from the corner store to check my lotto tix, in -25C weather today with a nasty windchill. 3D printers could do the job, but then I'd need to find someone with a 3d printer, find the right plastic and measure precisely. Its totally doable the only issue would be do I make the rim out of plastic, or integrate a rim into plastic cast from hub flange to rim spoke holes. Motorcycle rims out of metal puts me back into non standard bicycle size rims on a vbrake bicycle. For now fix spokes, keep thinking and probably buy geneirc front 1kw hubby.

Tomorrows suppose to be nice, lockdown is starting and I need to buy gifts and its one stop shop to chocolate store if their open, hopefully I call before I ride 30km round trip.




------------------Pictures----------------------------------------------------------------


5 spokes replaced from scavanged cooked generic, same size spokes :thumb:
temp fix

spoke repair.jpg
spoke repair.jpg (88.35 KiB) Viewed 84 times


3 Layers of standard electrical tape for rim tape, good for a temporary fix.
Gorilla tape is better.

20201213_223247.jpg
3 Layers of standard electrical tape for rim tape.
20201213_223247.jpg (86.56 KiB) Viewed 84 times



Spokes all repaired, tire on with Kenda canadian tire tube and Kenda canadian tire tire. Had to extend the phase wires, I dont use sensor wires. Nice bulge, so I double shrink wrapped, with last one extended out past and overlapped for watertight seal, then electrical taped. I also snip off the soldered end so no sharpies stick out. I'll have to go to rc store to buy 14g wire and 4mm+ bullet connectors, but hardwiring the phase with enough slack to repair a flat has been doing me good for years now.






------------------December 25, 2020----------------------------------------------------------------

Doing some work today because my phase wires were getting to short due to hard wiring the phase and not using connectors. You can do this but remember to leave enough slack to be able to change tires. Never really had a problem with controller on rear rack, slack from the axle exit to frame though sometimes it was tight.

Did my bid to help support local businesses by purchasing 5.5mm bullets, 12g + 10g wire from local rc store, which cost about double.

Key points

- Solder not over the pcb board, trying to desolder stock phase wires I had to tin the tip and I added to much and some flung but luckily it landed on smaller wires and not onto board.

- Insulate the heck out of the solder joint, I used 2 layers over solder, 2 layers overlapping wire insulation, then electrical tape to seal up the tip of the solder joint.

- Place away from the fets

Read the pictures notes to see whats going on.

------------------Pictures----------------------------------------------------------------


20201225_183102.jpg
Short phase wires due to hard wiring the phase wires and not using a connector. Always had enough slack to change a flat tire.
20201225_183102.jpg (2.9 MiB) Viewed 20 times


20201225_184318.jpg
Soldering to the side and not overtop the pcb
20201225_184318.jpg (2.83 MiB) Viewed 20 times


20201225_184447.jpg
First layer of insulation, just overtop the solder
20201225_184447.jpg (2.98 MiB) Viewed 20 times


20201225_184628.jpg
Added a second layer overtop solder, but added a wider heat shrink to cover the stock wire instulation. I dislike light colors for heat shrink cuz I use a lighter which blackens it.
20201225_184628.jpg (2.71 MiB) Viewed 20 times



20201225_184826.jpg
Electrical tape to well beyond tip of heat shrink to seal up the tip. Lots of layers.
20201225_184826.jpg (2.73 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_185432.jpg
Repeat again and again for other phase wires.
20201225_185432.jpg (2.35 MiB) Viewed 20 times



20201225_190150.jpg
20201225_190150.jpg (2.77 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_190237.jpg
blurry
20201225_190237.jpg (2.42 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_190618.jpg
tape, and shove into a spot away from fets, fets get hot.
20201225_190618.jpg (3 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_190703.jpg
Have the phases staggered, might be what others do but I've fried controller before because I didnt do this.
20201225_190703.jpg (2.84 MiB) Viewed 20 times



20201225_191635.jpg
20201225_191635.jpg (2.63 MiB) Viewed 20 times





20201225_191641.jpg
20201225_191641.jpg (2.96 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_192031.jpg
20201225_192031.jpg (2.78 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_193223.jpg
Light colored heatshrink and lighter blacken the heat shrink UNLESS you just put the lighter further away, but takes longer.
20201225_193223.jpg (3.07 MiB) Viewed 20 times





20201225_193447.jpg
Pliers help
20201225_193447.jpg (2.25 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_193637.jpg
Too much solder to female 5.5mm bullet
20201225_193637.jpg (3.37 MiB) Viewed 20 times





20201225_193746.jpg
Added to much solder to the cup of the 5.5mm female. Solder wick helps but you could just smooth it out with iron and try to get some off.
20201225_193746.jpg (3.49 MiB) Viewed 20 times




20201225_194103.jpg
Have the other end of the phase wires not line up so phases dont touch.
20201225_194103.jpg (3.26 MiB) Viewed 20 times

Post Reply