QS205 tolerence specs??

ebike11

1 MW
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Hi guys how are you?
I know this isnt the same for each QS205 owner as there are many variables. To round things off to make it easier, if one had a controller set at 200a and 24s pack (100v) for 20kw. How long would you think the motor would hold up at max. throttle assuming all other componants such as wiring/connectors of the system didnt fail??

I thought i seen detailed specs in an older thread by an experienced member on here but I cant find it. The test specs may have been for the mxus 3k. Im not really sure.

Ive ran 20kw and i reached 100kph but i was always concerned at how long i could maintain that speed for if on a highway etc.

Has anyone tested in the risky area before with this motor? Im sure some have since its a popular motor.

Thanks!!
 
The risk is only at low speed uphill, repeated hard acceleration. Riding high speed is not a problem for it won’t pull much power after it had reached it. Hard starts from a standstill are pulling lots of power but it is only a few seconds and safe as long as it is not up a steep hill. This motor can ride 100 kmh all day, unless it is pulling a heavy load.
 
MadRhino said:
The risk is only at low speed uphill, repeated hard acceleration. Riding high speed is not a problem for it won’t pull much power after it had reached it. Hard starts from a standstill are pulling lots of power but it is only a few seconds and safe as long as it is not up a steep hill. This motor can ride 100 kmh all day, unless it is pulling a heavy load.

oh really? cool
I guess the AMps do drop off when it gets up to 100kph.
I was just worried something might fry internally.
My 10guage wiring does get pretty warm to very warm though, but i guess it has nothing to do with the motor itself
 
Yep. 10 ga wires are too small for that kind of power. 8 ga is OK if they are short length.
 
MadRhino said:
I use 8 ga turnigy and the wiring gets pretty hot sometimes.

I see.
But does it matter using 8awg instead of 10awg because the wiring coming out of the hobby king packs is 10awg..so even if you crimped 8awg onto the hobby king awg, you would still have a weaker/hotter area of concern???
 
The very short 10ga wires are not a problem. Crimping high quality butt connectors and wiring the harness with 8ga is a must because it does require longer wires. The longer the wiring, the bigger the wire ga required. Feeding that high power does heat the wiring pretty quick, so the longer the time spent feeding high power, the bigger the wire ga required. Keep in mind that your wires and connectors are not rated for that much power, thus only quality of assembly, short length of wiring and short bursts of full power are making them sufficient, and efficient.
 
MadRhino said:
The very short 10ga wires are not a problem. Crimping high quality butt connectors and wiring the harness with 8ga is a must because it does require longer wires. The longer the wiring, the bigger the wire ga required. Feeding that high power does heat the wiring pretty quick, so the longer the time spent feeding high power, the bigger the wire ga required. Keep in mind that your wires and connectors are not rated for that much power, thus only quality of assembly, short length of wiring and short bursts of full power are making them sufficient, and efficient.

Ok thx
Have ever opened and seen how the 10awg is attached to the hobby king cells?
 
Of course, they are soldered on the cells tabs with a machine. You can’t weld a new wire there if you don’t have that machine, or some expertise that I didn’t manage to find. Best is to crimp butt connectors on the actual wires, or use big gold bullets 5.5mm and up if you need the harness to be easily reconfigured.

Hobbyking does not manufacture the bricks. They are from other companies that are mainland China. You can find the manufacturer and order direct with wire size and connectors to your spec, but the shipping and broker fees will make them more expansive unless you buy a whole container.
 
MadRhino said:
Of course, they are soldered on the cells tabs with a machine. You can’t weld a new wire there if you don’t have that machine, or some expertise that I didn’t manage to find. Best is to crimp butt connectors on the actual wires, or use big gold bullets 5.5mm and up if you need the harness to be easily reconfigured.

Hobbyking does not manufacture the bricks. They are from other companies that are mainland China. You can find the manufacturer and order direct with wire size and connectors to your spec, but the shipping and broker fees will make them more expansive unless you buy a whole container.

Thx for the info
Im not gonna try and solder. Just wondering how strong and the quality of the welds of the wire to the packs? Im sure they can take a lot of power
 
MadRhino said:
Of course, they are soldered on the cells tabs with a machine. You can’t weld a new wire there if you don’t have that machine, or some expertise that I didn’t manage to find. Best is to crimp butt connectors on the actual wires, or use big gold bullets 5.5mm and up if you need the harness to be easily reconfigured.

Hobbyking does not manufacture the bricks. They are from other companies that are mainland China. You can find the manufacturer and order direct with wire size and connectors to your spec, but the shipping and broker fees will make them more expansive unless you buy a whole container.

How about these custom sized copper tubing to connect 2 lengths of 8awg? I have a hydraulic crimper and i could cut a single tube in half to make 2 short piece connectors. I wouldnt need to use solder either if the crimp is tight then shrink wrapped.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqxQXOP
 
A variety of butt connectors are normally available locally. Best are tinned copper marine grade.
 
:cry:
MadRhino said:
A variety of butt connectors are normally available locally. Best are tinned copper marine grade.

But wouldnt copper on copper be better without any solder at all to lower resistance? Assuming they are crimped well
 
No solder required when crimped of course. Best wires are silver tinned copper, same for the connectors.
 
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