Does more wattage gives more initial torque or only more speed
- Thread starter xtaphore
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markz
100 TW
Play around with this excellent tool and find out.
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
MadRhino
100 GW
Watts are power, volts are speed.
More power won’t make any extra speed, unless the initial power was too low to achieve voltage speed.
More power and gearing down are making more torque. With a DD hub motor wheel, gearing down does mean a smaller wheel. A QS 273 can be fed much higher power than 8000 watts in acceleration.
More power won’t make any extra speed, unless the initial power was too low to achieve voltage speed.
More power and gearing down are making more torque. With a DD hub motor wheel, gearing down does mean a smaller wheel. A QS 273 can be fed much higher power than 8000 watts in acceleration.
dogman dan
1 PW
The one time I got to ride a 10,000 w e bike it wanted to backflip pretty bad. Once you got going it was fun, but it was tricky to start it up from a stop.
But it depends on what you plan to do with it, if it needs wheelie bars to win the drag race, put em on. If you just need to get ahead of a flock of cars at a light, 5000w will do that nicely. Meaning half throttle is plenty for the first few feet.
But it depends on what you plan to do with it, if it needs wheelie bars to win the drag race, put em on. If you just need to get ahead of a flock of cars at a light, 5000w will do that nicely. Meaning half throttle is plenty for the first few feet.
MadRhino
100 GW
For hard acceleration, the bike need to have proper geometry. 10kw hard start on a bike that is not built for this, is almost impossible to control. Then the rider has to temper the acceleration to make it progressive, or set a soft start controller. But, if you build the bike with adequate geometry, you can control wether it will lift or drift in hard acceleration, thus you can feed it very high power and still keep it under control. Long wheelbase, centered weight distribution, adapted cockpit geometry... are your first concerns. Then you can feed all the power and accelerate with the rear wheel spinning and the front a few inches off the ground. You can also start with a frog jump, if you are willing to pay the cost of learning. 
dogman dan
1 PW
One of the reasons I started making my bikes 8-16 inches longer. If he wants a drag bike, he should lengthen it.
Another consideration about initial torque, is whether the wheel would just break traction. I still think 5000w is plenty for the first three feet off the line in street use. One thing I learned at the death races, was how incredible a 1200w bike could accelerate compared to the typical 90cc gas bike. I had so much more torque for the first 20 feet.
But if you need to beat other electric bikes, you can't have too much watts, ( once the wheelie problem is controlled) only more torque than your tire can handle.
Another consideration about initial torque, is whether the wheel would just break traction. I still think 5000w is plenty for the first three feet off the line in street use. One thing I learned at the death races, was how incredible a 1200w bike could accelerate compared to the typical 90cc gas bike. I had so much more torque for the first 20 feet.
But if you need to beat other electric bikes, you can't have too much watts, ( once the wheelie problem is controlled) only more torque than your tire can handle.
j bjork
100 kW
What you need is a controller that can deliver enough phase amps to either of them.
The bigger motor will be capable of more torque if you can feed it.
The bigger motor will be capable of more torque if you can feed it.
DogDipstick
100 kW
Motors have a Tq./Amp number with the certain design. One vs another.
Feed this much amps, get this much tq.
....put that in a rim to lever you along your way and have fun. The amount of butt dyno "umpf " this makes depends on the wheel diameter, load and how much work you put down. For the maths, I think. Plus how the bike handles against gravity.
Work = Force × Distance... and hp ( horseypower) is derived from this.
Don t hurt yourself.
Feed this much amps, get this much tq.
....put that in a rim to lever you along your way and have fun. The amount of butt dyno "umpf " this makes depends on the wheel diameter, load and how much work you put down. For the maths, I think. Plus how the bike handles against gravity.
Work = Force × Distance... and hp ( horseypower) is derived from this.
Don t hurt yourself.
markz
100 TW
Don t lose a shoe
https://youtu.be/NCpzXIPXdAQ?t=8
https://youtu.be/NCpzXIPXdAQ?t=8
j bjork
100 kW
I think this is more relevant: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=82155
The earlier version, before he went mid drive.
The earlier version, before he went mid drive.
j bjork
100 kW
Edit, maybe I misunderstood?
I thought it was comparing 273 50h, 8kw and 273 70h, 12kw.
I doubt there is much use for any 273 if you are using a controller that can handle 8kw or 12kw max.
I thought it was comparing 273 50h, 8kw and 273 70h, 12kw.
I doubt there is much use for any 273 if you are using a controller that can handle 8kw or 12kw max.
dogman dan
1 PW
Ok, its not a race bike. Sounded like it might be. We could discuss shit infinitely here, and have for over a decade. But to answer your question it would help to know what you want.
What kind of bike will it be? Is this a cargo hauling truck? Is this an MTB for trail riding? Do you need to have huge torque at low speed for 10 seconds? Or do you want to have low speed torque for an hour climbing up a mine road? Or do you want a street motorcycle that sort of looks like its a legal bike?
What kind of bike will it be? Is this a cargo hauling truck? Is this an MTB for trail riding? Do you need to have huge torque at low speed for 10 seconds? Or do you want to have low speed torque for an hour climbing up a mine road? Or do you want a street motorcycle that sort of looks like its a legal bike?
Thanks.
I'm DIY enduro e-bike (stealth bomber clone frame) and I'm looking for a "low speed torky bike". I'm 225ponds and I want this bike more for off road trail bike. From what I'v been told is that I should better choose a 8k@5T setup than a 12k@3.5T configuration because of my weight and offroad usage.
What do you think?
I'm DIY enduro e-bike (stealth bomber clone frame) and I'm looking for a "low speed torky bike". I'm 225ponds and I want this bike more for off road trail bike. From what I'v been told is that I should better choose a 8k@5T setup than a 12k@3.5T configuration because of my weight and offroad usage.
What do you think?
dogman dan said:
Thanks.
I'm DIY enduro e-bike (stealth bomber clone frame) and I'm looking for a "low speed torky bike". I'm 225ponds and I want this bike more for off road trail bike. From what I'v been told is that I should better choose a 8k@5T setup than a 12k@3.5T configuration because of my weight and offroad usage.
What do you think?
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