Best Phase Wire Connectors & MXUS 3kw stock wires

MartyMcfly1

10 mW
Joined
Jan 16, 2021
Messages
20
I thought I'd consult the experts on here for some advice.

I'm currently running MXUS 3KW Turbo V3 3T on 22s li-po, with Sabvoton 72150 and Grin Cycle Analyst v3. Running on 80a currently @ 92v (approx 7300w)

I'm getting some Tattu li-po, 22s and I'm going to increase the amps to approximately 120a whixh will give me around 11,000w.

I'm changing my cables from 10 awg to 6awg, replacing wiring harness xt90 connectors with EC8 connectors. And replacing the xt90 phase wire connectors. My question is about MXUS stock phase wires which are 4mm. Will they handle 11kw? And which connectors will be best for them. Solderless crimp bullet connectors?
 
Good question, stock the phases are soldered up so way i see it is if the solder has melted your well past the 105c rating of the motor.

Im not sure if this is correct but its how every motor ive seen has been terminated to the stator.

Can you get 3 × 6mm phase wire and a set of hall cables in theres ? Id go for 6 core on the halls and add a kty temp probe so you can monitor what your 11kw is doing, its expensive when it all goes wrong ive got a freerider sat dead thrown magnet from 12kw.
 
I changed my V3 3T motor wires out to 8AWG and regularly run 10kW. But you can't run that level of power sustained anyway. The motor just can't shed heat that fast. Short bursts with time to cool in between. So if you keep the original 12AWG motor wires as short as physically possible, they'd probably be ok and not the limiting factor.
 
I've got temp sensor hooked up and displaying on the cycle analyst. Think I should go solderless connectors on the phase wires? Or solder some 6mm amas XT150's on there?
 
Ianhill said:
Good question, stock the phases are soldered up so way i see it is if the solder has melted your well past the 105c rating of the motor.

Im not sure if this is correct but its how every motor ive seen has been terminated to the stator.

Can you get 3 × 6mm phase wire and a set of hall cables in theres ? Id go for 6 core on the halls and add a kty temp probe so you can monitor what your 11kw is doing, its expensive when it all goes wrong ive got a freerider sat dead thrown magnet from 12kw.

My plan is to run with stock wires and see how they hold up. They'll be the thinnest wires in the system at 4mm diameter though so it is a worry. Theyre not silicone and I hear they can withstand some high temps. I don't really want to strip them out, after seeing people do it online and have issues getting the plate back on due to increased cable width. Ive seen someone take insulation off and heat shrink just to squeeze them through. Halls are only taking 5v so I'm not too worried about those.
 
IMG_20190302_115344399.jpg

Its hard to tell from by there what extra will fit on the dualtron scooters they add 10awg and push them to 12kw burst range, rion open out the side covers to get some air cooling going on but that dont really help with added burst capability but really just takes maybe a minute or 2 quicker to cool depending how your riding.

Heres my question to the tuning gods if i open my motor cases with a step drill make it look all fancy can i then use ferrofluid and not have it spill its guts, from what i can tell only a small amount goes in to keep drag down would that stay in place ?

Those mods seem more relevant to me but it depends on if its a daily rider or a fun toy.
 
(One of ) my bike(s) have 3mm^2 wire phase cross section. I run 4Kw contin and 8kw peaks. It is a 1Kw motor rating. the phase wires? i do not know how they survived at all. they regularly approach " considerable warm and soft and whatnot". 8Ga batt power harness. Its still alive.

I have used real, UL listed, nickel plated Panduit lugs. Lockwasheres and strong strong bolts.


Im building a 205 and a 273 bike at the moment, 350A and 450A respectively, and I refuse to cut and place a new connector in, unless it says UL Listed Panduit, 4 gauge or 6 gauge. Any connection I install is a fail point potentially.. and I do not mind ( unbolting the lugs) to taking off wheels.

SupraX solderless connectors are the ones I would use if I was not to use the UL listed stuff.
 
How much will cooling fins help ? Will two sets fit ?
They will melt I melted a 5t v1 going up a dirt hill with speed bumps for rain drainage. So Stop and go with hills equals melt. Running on flat ground is different. What type of riding are you doing ?
I cut holes in the side plates of my edge 1,500 35mm aluminum stator with fins at 3,100 watts. Will statoraid stay in with drilled side plates ?
Maybe someone has extra side plates of a melted one ? For drilling. As I was wondering if V1, V2, V3 are the same or interchangeable ?
 
You need to know what connectors can fit the gauge of wire you are using. XT90's will only be able to handle up to a certain gauge, but there are 5.5mm bullet connectors and 6mm and 6.5mm bullet connectors, but there is also Powerpole SB connectors that probably wont suit your needs as they are huge.
Remember that you can only fit 10awg through the axle, if your lucky, but you can always go to a thicker wire right outside the axle.
 
Markz what your secret for pulling wire thru the axle . Mine is cut the wire flesh the pull the sheeting and stretch it. Get 5in. or more of MT sheeting and slit a little and then pull the MT sheeting tough axle hole. You can use shrink tube at tip. I did put Vaseline in the hall and he did it up with a hot gun. Markz how do you pull yours ? Does anybody know where you get 10 ga or 12 ga phase wire with hall wire and sheet ? Can bore hole as port an Polish ect ?
 
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