GREETINGS, CAN YOU POINT ME IN THE DIRECTION OF A COMPARABLE controller in 2021

GIGATT

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GREETINGS, CAN YOU POINT ME IN THE DIRECTION OF A COMPARABLE controller in 2021?

liveforphysics said:
Dyno testing his earlier prototypes of this 24fet design, I was pretty blown away how they were able to solidly own a cro-motor in a small diameter rim before they were getting to any thermally concerning level of warmth in the heatsink.

I was also pretty impressed, because I think it's the very first e-bicycle controller builder to bother to do endurance dyno testing and extreme thermal fatigue testing to verify the power electronics stage viability, and then accompanied with late-night ripper sessions of street mayhem, a few lucky times when I myself had the free time to be involved in the hooning/burnout/ripper-esque shenanigans that is the realm of properly testing sporty Ebike parts. :)

It also makes me damn proud to see you openly sharing all the finer details of the build my friend. This is how the community grows in development by sharing the hard lessons learned and the accompanying solutions.
 
I'm trying to use a PowerVelocity http://powervelocity.com/home/55-24f-15kw-sinewavesilent-controller-android-ios-bluetooth-programmable.html
I can't recommend them as I've not been able to buy it and I've been trying for 6 weeks.
Let me know what you find as I'm now looking for alternatives. I'll post my short list as I find things
Kelly are a bigger company and have a wider range of controllers but are bigger, heavier and more expensive https://kellycontroller.com/shop/kls-8080i-ips/
https://www.kellycontrollers.eu/kdz12401 136V max 400A for a minute 160A continuaous briefly looks possible
 
GIGATT said:
GREETINGS, CAN YOU POINT ME IN THE DIRECTION OF A COMPARABLE controller in 2021?

liveforphysics said:
Dyno testing his earlier prototypes of this 24fet design, I was pretty blown away how they were able to solidly own a cro-motor in a small diameter rim before they were getting to any thermally concerning level of warmth in the heatsink.

I was also pretty impressed, because I think it's the very first e-bicycle controller builder to bother to do endurance dyno testing and extreme thermal fatigue testing to verify the power electronics stage viability, and then accompanied with late-night ripper sessions of street mayhem, a few lucky times when I myself had the free time to be involved in the hooning/burnout/ripper-esque shenanigans that is the realm of properly testing sporty Ebike parts. :)

It also makes me damn proud to see you openly sharing all the finer details of the build my friend. This is how the community grows in development by sharing the hard lessons learned and the accompanying solutions.

I love the ASI BAC8000 for hot rods, but its finicky and 20-21s max not 24s max. The ASI BAC4000 also is a beast that can saturate most motors and save you weight over the 8000. The nuclear controller guys seem to keep making more power too, but I haven't had time to play with mine yet, but exciting potential. ZombieSS and Arlo1 both make incredible ultra-rugged controllers, but I don't think they will sell you one yet. Good luck!
 
I went for a Sevcon Dragon 8 in the end for a higher voltage but lower Amperage and because I couldn't get a Nucular at a sensible price and timescale.
The Dragon 8 can go from 50v-140V working (145V non operational) and 100A rms for 1hr, 325 for 2 mins and 400A for 10S output
View attachment Dragon 8 Product Manual v1.pdf
PS this is not advice just info :) no idea how well it will turn out
 
BobBob said:
I went for a Sevcon Dragon 8 in the end for a higher voltage but lower Amperage and because I couldn't get a Nucular at a sensible price and timescale.
The Dragon 8 can go from 50v-140V working (145V non operational) and 100A rms for 1hr, 325 for 2 mins and 400A for 10S output
Dragon 8 Product Manual v1.pdf
PS this is not advice just info :) no idea how well it will turn out

I also recently picked up a Dragon 8, have you got yours running? What motor are you using?
 
More than ever, DIY ebikers are in the need of better, more powerful controllers. That is because the fast builds are heavier than ever.

Work on weight and design optimisation, to achieve better performance with the power available.
 
rider119 said:
BobBob said:
I went for a Sevcon Dragon 8 in the end for a higher voltage but lower Amperage and because I couldn't get a Nucular at a sensible price and timescale.
The Dragon 8 can go from 50v-140V working (145V non operational) and 100A rms for 1hr, 325 for 2 mins and 400A for 10S output
Dragon 8 Product Manual v1.pdf
PS this is not advice just info :) no idea how well it will turn out

I also recently picked up a Dragon 8, have you got yours running? What motor are you using?
It's not running yet, I'm working out where to put the controller, haven't built the battery yet & Wheel is being rebuilt
I've got a MXUS 3k (4T) which will be the weak link but also the cheapest bit so that's ok
100 new Molicel INR21700-P42A cells so with 32S 3P I get 135A peak for a couple of minutes till it all gets a little warm
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.h...e&throt=100&cont=cust_135_250_0.03_V&axis=mph
How do you power the 12V system?
I was thinking a DCDC converter https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/isolated-dc-dc-converters/1862888 and if necessary 3 cells in series - in parallel with it (sitting at 4V they won't be damaged by overcharging)
 
BobBob said:
rider119 said:
BobBob said:
I went for a Sevcon Dragon 8 in the end for a higher voltage but lower Amperage and because I couldn't get a Nucular at a sensible price and timescale.
The Dragon 8 can go from 50v-140V working (145V non operational) and 100A rms for 1hr, 325 for 2 mins and 400A for 10S output
Dragon 8 Product Manual v1.pdf
PS this is not advice just info :) no idea how well it will turn out

I also recently picked up a Dragon 8, have you got yours running? What motor are you using?
It's not running yet, I'm working out where to put the controller, haven't built the battery yet & Wheel is being rebuilt
I've got a MXUS 3k (4T) which will be the weak link but also the cheapest bit so that's ok
100 new Molicel INR21700-P42A cells so with 32S 3P I get 135A peak for a couple of minutes till it all gets a little warm
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.h...e&throt=100&cont=cust_135_250_0.03_V&axis=mph
How do you power the 12V system?
I was thinking a DCDC converter https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/isolated-dc-dc-converters/1862888 and if necessary 3 cells in series - in parallel with it (sitting at 4V they won't be damaged by overcharging)

I’m just powering the logic circuit with a 12v pack of 18650s for the time being. My problem is that my controller is password restricted and I’m trying to figure out how to get around that. Hoping to hear back Monday from a rep at FSIP who’s helping out and contacting Sevcon/Borg directly.

A DC/DC converter would be how I would likely power it in the long run though.

So I assume you have not connected it to DVT either?

Anyone know how compatible .dld and .dcf files are between models? I finally got my Gen4 Size2 running my QS120, still needs a lot of tuning, but I’m hoping I can load files from it to my Dragon 8 and only need relatively minor tweaks.
 
rider119 said:
I’m just powering the logic circuit with a 12v pack of 18650s for the time being. My problem is that my controller is password restricted and I’m trying to figure out how to get around that. Hoping to hear back Monday from a rep at FSIP who’s helping out and contacting Sevcon/Borg directly.

A DC/DC converter would be how I would likely power it in the long run though.

So I assume you have not connected it to DVT either?

Anyone know how compatible .dld and .dcf files are between models? I finally got my Gen4 Size2 running my QS120, still needs a lot of tuning, but I’m hoping I can load files from it to my Dragon 8 and only need relatively minor tweaks.
I thought the chances of magic smoke were higher before I have half decent wiring in place and I probably need some spare crimps for temporary wiring. I like the ampseal connector so far - better than some ITT ones with the spikes out the sides of the crimps that can short together

Mine came with a usb stick with the following files on it plus a 2021 version of DVT - let me know if you have any other info or are missing any of these.
dragon docs.JPG

I also found this - ref passwords if you're stuck on the ixxat sw - probably not what yr after but thought I'd drop it in in case
To use the Software, where Software applies to all files
contained in this zip file, you are required to accept the
terms and conditions of the License Agreement contained in
the file "IX_License_HW&SW.txt"

If the "IX_License_HW&SW.txt" file is missing in this zip file
or if you do not accept the terms and conditions of
the License Agreement, you shall not use the Software.

If you agree to the preceding conditions, type "ACCEPT" as the
password.
 
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