Do these cables cause problems?

ebike11

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Hi all
I have an APT controller and the darn thing wont connect to the software. I followed all of the steps..COM port etc but in the program itself the controller status and settings dont show up.
Im thinking of buying different cables rather than the ones that were included.
Its kind of hard to find this particular cable. Do you think it could be a signal issue in the cables?
Im troubleshooting as much as i can. Thanks!
 

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You might try picking up a usb to serial adapter. The software for the adapter will allow you to assign virtual com ports, which may or may not help to resolve your issue. I had luck doing this under similar circumstances, albeit completely unrelated to e-bikes.

That said, the only thing I know about APT controllers is the thread here titled something to the effect of "Do not buy" and I suspect it had something to do with getting the things configured properly.
 
HK12K said:
You might try picking up a usb to serial adapter. The software for the adapter will allow you to assign virtual com ports, which may or may not help to resolve your issue. I had luck doing this under similar circumstances, albeit completely unrelated to e-bikes.

That said, the only thing I know about APT controllers is the thread here titled something to the effect of "Do not buy" and I suspect it had something to do with getting the things configured properly.

Thx for the reply...actually ive changed COM ports because for some odd reason they include 2 cables with the controller. 10pin from the controller to a female serial and then a male serial to usb.
I already tried a 2nd serial tonisb but its hard to find the 10pin to female serial.
I did see that thread...i got most of the controller files from there
 
Ah, sounds like they included a serial to usb adapter in the kit then. Sensible, as many computers are missing serial ports these days. Sadly it doesn't seem to be doing the trick.

I wonder, have you tried connecting using each individual com port option as a process of elimination? You probably have, but that's the best I've got on this one.

Good luck!
 
HK12K said:
Ah, sounds like they included a serial to usb adapter in the kit then. Sensible, as many computers are missing serial ports these days. Sadly it doesn't seem to be doing the trick.

I wonder, have you tried connecting using each individual com port option as a process of elimination? You probably have, but that's the best I've got on this one.

Good luck!

Yeah ive tried all ports.
So im thinking on replacing the cables.
What would be the proper name of the cable in the above photo?
 
ebike11 said:
Im thinking of buying different cables rather than the ones that were included.
Its kind of hard to find this particular cable. Do you think it could be a signal issue in the cables?
Do you think the cable itself is faulty? That cable is easy to test pin-to-pin continuity with your DVOM.
 
99t4 said:
ebike11 said:
Im thinking of buying different cables rather than the ones that were included.
Its kind of hard to find this particular cable. Do you think it could be a signal issue in the cables?
Do you think the cable itself is faulty? That cable is easy to test pin-to-pin continuity with your DVOM.

Hi there...is there a specific method to do that?
 
Set your meter to resistance/continuity and probe both ends of the cable to ensure power is traveling from one end to the other.

Sorry, not familiar enough with that round connector to say what exactly it is for replacement purposes.

Worse comes to worst, perhaps try using a different computer if you have one available. Just to rule that end of the chain out.

Have you asked in the APT thread by chance? Perhaps someone more familiar with that particular hardware can be of more assistance.
 
HK12K said:
Set your meter to resistance/continuity and probe both ends of the cable to ensure power is traveling from one end to the other.

Sorry, not familiar enough with that round connector to say what exactly it is for replacement purposes.

Worse comes to worst, perhaps try using a different computer if you have one available. Just to rule that end of the chain out.

Have you asked in the APT thread by chance? Perhaps someone more familiar with that particular hardware can be of more assistance.

ok thx...yeah read the apt thread. seems to be a common problem with programming. but my controller isnt even connecting to the computer..gotta sort that out first.
Thx for the tips!
 
The D-Sub, first designed by Cannon int he early 50's, military applications, are some of the BEST and MOST reliable designs that were ever made.

I have the gear to make them all and if you need one I can mak a custom harness for ya. The crimper cost 750$ or so. Lol. I can make them, they are VERY reliable.
 
The USB to serial converter can also cause problems. With a different controller, I had one that did not pull low enough to read as a zero to the controller and wouldn't talk. By adding a resistor from the TX line to ground, I was able to tweak it enough to work. Some converters may work better than others.
 
DogDipstick said:
The D-Sub, first designed by Cannon int he early 50's, military applications, are some of the BEST and MOST reliable designs that were ever made.

I have the gear to make them all and if you need one I can mak a custom harness for ya. The crimper cost 750$ or so. Lol. I can make them, they are VERY reliable.

That cable is known as D-sub??
How much do you charge?
 
fechter said:
The USB to serial converter can also cause problems. With a different controller, I had one that did not pull low enough to read as a zero to the controller and wouldn't talk. By adding a resistor from the TX line to ground, I was able to tweak it enough to work. Some converters may work better than others.

Thanks for the info...but not sure which wire is the TX
 
What is the diameter of the round one. It's either 11:16 or larger . Mm. It is called a GX series connector. They make them in many variants. Yes I can source One and yes I can crimp the gold pins. The rectangle is a d sub. Yes I have them and yes I can make them in that pin configuration.

However wire is very rarely lose their continuity randomly. You should try something such as a loopback serial emulator program to test the cable with one jumper from TX to RX. You can send a command outside of the computer and it will loop back and receive a command from the jumper cable if everything is wired correctly and the cable is working.

There is a program called hyperterm for this bundled in Windows 7. I don't know what operating system you are using or how to do a serial emulator loop back test with your cable to confirm the communications are working. If you're absolutely sure your communications are not working because of the cable continuity yes I can make another one. Cable is very rarely go bad though.
 
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