What generally causes hall failure?

ebike11

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Would it be the heat from to much current/power? They are quite small...wonder how much heat they can actually take.
If not heat then is it just internal malfunction due to quality?
Ive had 2 or 3 sets go bad on different motors over the past 5 years and the motors were all connected correctly to the controller/bartery.
I guess i should use Honeywell ones for sure
 
Most of the failed Hall sensors I have replaced had been cooked.
 
Damaged hall wiring at the axle exit
Cooked halls
Loose halls that get damaged
Installing the wrong hall sensors
Miswiring the hall sensors

Go with a sensored&sensorless controller and you wont have to bother with halls, but if you want the smoothness of sensored you can have both.
 
markz said:
Damaged hall wiring at the axle exit
Cooked halls
Loose halls that get damaged
Installing the wrong hall sensors
Miswiring the hall sensors

Go with a sensored&sensorless controller and you wont have to bother with halls, but if you want the smoothness of sensored you can have both.

Mine must have been cooked because i cancelled out the other reasons...maybe quality of hall though even if the same model#

I prefer sinewave controllers. They all seem to be have a hall sensor plug
 
Well did you buy a genuine hall sensor from an authorized dealer like Mouser.com or did you buy from some back alley hustler on ebay where you'd really have no clue if the hall sensor was genuine, counterfeit, rebranded from a dirt cheap chip. You know counterfeits are everywhere, I even heard airlines had some counterfeit critical parts on it. Its a very serious problem in certain respects, brake pads for auto's, airbags, drugs, the list is long ebike11.

ebike11 said:
Mine must have been cooked because i cancelled out the other reasons...maybe quality of hall though even if the same model#

I prefer sinewave controllers. They all seem to be have a hall sensor plug
 
Most motors have cheap Chinese Hall sensors, that are not reliable for heat resistance. After you replace them with Honeywell hall sensors, they will probably last very long because in most situations the fault was not abuse and overheating, only bad luck to have had the defective ones in a batch that passed through minimal or non-existent quality control.
 
Since I was melting motors on purpose for a time, I cooked halls.

I found a motor that got good and hot, then parked hot, would cook its halls. There is a temp spike after you stop having air rushing past the motor, so it would get all hot, work fine, then next ride the halls would not be working.

Quite small air vent holes in the cover can help a lot with this. Once you stop, hot air goes out the upper holes, and cool air into the lowers. These holes not near enough to help with while you ride, but after you stop, just 1/4 inch holes can do a lot to prevent that heat spike after you stop.

Cool down ride helps a lot too. Meaning a mile or so at 20 mph, after a good long run at 40 mph or more.
 
markz said:
Well did you buy a genuine hall sensor from an authorized dealer like Mouser.com or did you buy from some back alley hustler on ebay where you'd really have no clue if the hall sensor was genuine, counterfeit, rebranded from a dirt cheap chip. You know counterfeits are everywhere, I even heard airlines had some counterfeit critical parts on it. Its a very serious problem in certain respects, brake pads for auto's, airbags, drugs, the list is long ebike11.

ebike11 said:
Mine must have been cooked because i cancelled out the other reasons...maybe quality of hall though even if the same model#

I prefer sinewave controllers. They all seem to be have a hall sensor plug

Yes i bought from aliexpress haha so that explains it. I thought a hall is a hall but now ill have to buy from usa or canada
 
dogman dan said:
Since I was melting motors on purpose for a time, I cooked halls.

I found a motor that got good and hot, then parked hot, would cook its halls. There is a temp spike after you stop having air rushing past the motor, so it would get all hot, work fine, then next ride the halls would not be working.

Quite small air vent holes in the cover can help a lot with this. Once you stop, hot air goes out the upper holes, and cool air into the lowers. These holes not near enough to help with while you ride, but after you stop, just 1/4 inch holes can do a lot to prevent that heat spike after you stop.

Cool down ride helps a lot too. Meaning a mile or so at 20 mph, after a good long run at 40 mph or more.

Thx for the tips
 
MadRhino said:
Most motors have cheap Chinese Hall sensors, that are not reliable for heat resistance. After you replace them with Honeywell hall sensors, they will probably last very long because in most situations the fault was not abuse and overheating, only bad luck to have had the defective ones in a batch that passed through minimal or non-existent quality control.

Yes ill go with honeywell for sure
Does honeywell show their temperature threshold?
I see there is SS41 and SS41F..also unipolar and bipolar.
I think 41F is for qs205?
 
I was once in a south-east Asian country, and on a whim I bought an acoustic 6-string guitar as a souvenir (hoping I would learn to play someday...I never learned to play guitar)

After making my selection, they asked what label I wanted on it. I was confused until they showed me the selection. I could have a label that said Gibson, Martin, Taylor...any brand I wanted.

I suspect it is the same with Hall sensors. I would suggest that it is best to buy Honeywells from an authorized retailer, someone who has a reputation to protect.

If they are priced $1-$4 each, three of them can be $3 plus tax and shipping or $12 +T&S.

I have spent more than $16 for lunch in the past, and $16 is a small price to pay to get three authentic Honeywells.

Authentic Honeywell Halls are built using the proper materials, fake Honeywells are filled with disappointment, deception, and frustration. Like my ex-wife, they are pretty on the outside...

Also, Fairchild Aviation recently bought Honeywell Electronics, and the new company will be called..."Fairwell Honeychild" (*ba-dum-TISS)
 
spinningmagnets said:
I was once in a south-east Asian country, and on a whim I bought an acoustic 6-string guitar as a souvenir (hoping I would learn to play someday...I never learned to play guitar)

After making my selection, they asked what label I wanted on it. I was confused until they showed me the selection. I could have a label that said Gibson, Martin, Taylor...any brand I wanted.

I suspect it is the same with Hall sensors. I would suggest that it is best to buy Honeywells from an authorized retailer, someone who has a reputation to protect.

If they are priced $1-$4 each, three of them can be $3 plus tax and shipping or $12 +T&S.

I have spent more than $16 for lunch in the past, and $16 is a small price to pay to get three authentic Honeywells.

Authentic Honeywell Halls are built using the proper materials, fake Honeywells are filled with disappointment, deception, and frustration. Like my ex-wife, they are pretty on the outside...

Also, Fairchild Aviation recently bought Honeywell Electronics, and the new company will be called..."Fairwell Honeychild" (*ba-dum-TISS)

Thx for the info!
I will indeed buy honeywell but im getting conflicting posts on which model for the QS205. I read SS41 and SS41F as well as many other SS41*** models
Will any starting with SS41 work?
 
Just look to see what the differences are between the two. They look very close, if not exact. Same package. Temps look to be the only difference, 25C vs -40C-150C for T(A).

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/187/hwsc_s_a0001295895_1-2271171.pdf

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/187/honeywell-sensing-bipolar-hall-effect-digital-posi-1846288.pdf
 
markz said:
Just look to see what the differences are between the two. They look very close, if not exact. Same package. Temps look to be the only difference, 25C vs -40C-150C for T(A).

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/187/hwsc_s_a0001295895_1-2271171.pdf

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/187/honeywell-sensing-bipolar-hall-effect-digital-posi-1846288.pdf

Thx for the links
I think though they are all rated up to 150C according to the links u posted
 
ebike11 said:
markz said:
Just look to see what the differences are between the two. They look very close, if not exact. Same package. Temps look to be the only difference, 25C vs -40C-150C for T(A).

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/187/hwsc_s_a0001295895_1-2271171.pdf

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/187/honeywell-sensing-bipolar-hall-effect-digital-posi-1846288.pdf

Thx for the links
I think though they are all rated up to 150C according to the links u posted

I think i also read that SS41 is bipolar and 41F is unipolar and 41F is correct for qs205. Just hoping to confirm
 
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