PeteCress
1 kW
With a MAC10T, what provides is the pedelec functionality?
CycleAnalyst?
The controller?
Something else?
CycleAnalyst?
The controller?
Something else?
With a MAC10T, what provides is the pedelec functionality?
- Thread starter PeteCress
- Start date
Human input is measured with a Torque Sensing Bottom Bracket (TSBB). A few different types mine is a Thun although Sempu, Bafang and few others have begun to produce them. Thun is the most accurate (rivaling some of the $$roadie stuff) but it only measures the left side input, assuming most have symmetrical leg strength.
Thun has two signals for measurement:
• 24 pole pulse input for cadence
• -2.5V to +2.5V output linear analog) to the torsion applied
Installing a TSBB requires some work on the boom.
The CA3 is configured to plug into the TSBB's available from Grin Technologies. The CA3 takes the input from TSBB & Throttle, which ever has higher power demand takes over. The CA3 passes the demand on to the Controller as a Master Throttle Input. Just plugs into the normal throttle port.
Also there are switches (rotary or button) that connect to the CA3 to control the rate of assist from 0-10X rider input.
http://www.triketech.com/Drivetrain/PowerAssist/Thun.html
Thun has two signals for measurement:
• 24 pole pulse input for cadence
• -2.5V to +2.5V output linear analog) to the torsion applied
Installing a TSBB requires some work on the boom.
The CA3 is configured to plug into the TSBB's available from Grin Technologies. The CA3 takes the input from TSBB & Throttle, which ever has higher power demand takes over. The CA3 passes the demand on to the Controller as a Master Throttle Input. Just plugs into the normal throttle port.
Also there are switches (rotary or button) that connect to the CA3 to control the rate of assist from 0-10X rider input.
http://www.triketech.com/Drivetrain/PowerAssist/Thun.html
PeteCress
1 kW
Would that be limited to drilling a hole for the wire?Triketech said:
I am starting to acquire the parts for a MAC10T build per your cookbook.
The victim will be an ICE Adventure HD that I will pick up this Saturday. Not my first choice for a trike, but the supply chain being what it is... and this one is lightly used on consignment form some other old guy who, I guess, couldn't make it work for him.
PeteCress
1 kW
Uh-oh....Triketech said:
But singlespeed should work with a centered wheel, right?
One one hand, maybe there is a Pinion in my future...
OTOH, just take a flyer and try a TSDZ2... hoping that the noise from the one in your video where you observed that the noise was from the TSDZ2 riding ahead and not the MAC was because it was retrofitted with a brass gear.
I am thinking that, besides being possible overkill, a Bafang Ultra would be pretty much guaranteed noisy...
PeteCress said:
The noise came from the TSDZ2 ahead. It has the plastic gear on the primary reduction set. Its the secondary 10-70 tooth that's grinding. Suffice it to say the quality of the way the teeth were chiseled out is clearly lacking.
Single speed should work, but fender won't fit.
Chalo
100 TW
For what it's worth, I've seen a few torque sensors installed on DIY systems... but I've never seen one last very long before crapping out. It would be nice if they were as easy to install and as reliable as a cadence sensor, but so far, no.
dogman dan
1 PW
Its better to use a throttle to vary the motor, than vary your cadence to control motor power. Yes, its not like a bike. On a bike you vary your cadence, till you vary it too much, and get that familiar old pukey feeling. You will love not doing that anymore.
Learn to throttle, its easy, and keep your speed and your cadence the same the whole ride. Your body will love steady cadence. Change gears if you want to vary speed, but keep your cadence that perfect rpm your body likes best.
This also keeps your system simple, wiring from the controller needs only to go the motor, and handlebars.
Learn to throttle, its easy, and keep your speed and your cadence the same the whole ride. Your body will love steady cadence. Change gears if you want to vary speed, but keep your cadence that perfect rpm your body likes best.
This also keeps your system simple, wiring from the controller needs only to go the motor, and handlebars.
markz
100 TW
dogman dan said it best, go with throttle only, cruise function is helpful but can also be undesirable because it engages when you dont want it to. The ones I've used are if your throttle is in the same position for X amount of time then cruise control engages. But like I said it can be very helpful and save strain on your thumb for thumb throttle which is what I use. I find myself sometimes having to wave/flick my hand to loosen it up, call it the throttle hand.
MikeSSS
1 kW
I ride a comfortable cadence and human power output and add some epower, using the throttle, as well to get a comfortable speed.
During a ride the bodies natural power output and cadence vary depending on where you are in the natural rise and fall of your bio power output ability. In pedal riding we try to monitor our own bio peaks and valleys and those of the opposing rider, you try to climb toward a peak as the other rider has peaked and is on the decline. That's when you attack. I mention this because it is what happens on a ebike ride as well as on a pedal only ride.
Using the cruise control on a CA V3 fits in extremely well with the natural rise and fall of bio power output. Speed slows on a climb and watts increase as epower increases, over the top on on the descent watts decrease and epower decreases as speed increases. It's all very natural and very much like pedal power only, except your average speed is higher and your range is longer.
Unexpected cruise has never been a problem for me, it usually happens when I'm using epower to help me push the bike up steps. On a walking alongside climb I use cruise, it helps move me up the grade.
During a ride the bodies natural power output and cadence vary depending on where you are in the natural rise and fall of your bio power output ability. In pedal riding we try to monitor our own bio peaks and valleys and those of the opposing rider, you try to climb toward a peak as the other rider has peaked and is on the decline. That's when you attack. I mention this because it is what happens on a ebike ride as well as on a pedal only ride.
Using the cruise control on a CA V3 fits in extremely well with the natural rise and fall of bio power output. Speed slows on a climb and watts increase as epower increases, over the top on on the descent watts decrease and epower decreases as speed increases. It's all very natural and very much like pedal power only, except your average speed is higher and your range is longer.
Unexpected cruise has never been a problem for me, it usually happens when I'm using epower to help me push the bike up steps. On a walking alongside climb I use cruise, it helps move me up the grade.
