New build: looking for setup without an LCD display required

I have a Huffy Venice (headed for the big time!) that I'd like to convert for small runs here in town. It seems this would be a useful and fairly easy build to get my feet wet.

Desired max speed on level ground. 15 mph with light to moderate pedaling, especially from stops.
Desired max range. 8-10 miles
Bike wheel size. 20" (rear)
Brake type of motor wheel. V-brake
Rider weight. 230 pounds; occasionally I'll be pulling a trailer hauling 40 pounds at the most.
Terrain. Paved neighborhood roads, mostly flat.

I'm looking at a 36v / 350w geared hub motor for the rear 20" tire; maybe PAS at a later point.

My biggest question is: is there a setup that that doesn't require an LCD display? Simplicity and (relative) stealth are preferable: motor, controller, battery, thumb throttle, brake cut-off. Ebikeling had the most appealing kits I've found yet, but they require a display to operate. I'd prefer to work with a US dealer or order from Amazon. I'd like to stay under $450 for everything but the battery.

Recommendations for a BMS are welcome, too; I'm planning on building a battery with Vruzend's connectors. And if I need a 500w motor, let me know.

"My biggest question is: is there a setup that that doesn't require an LCD display?
maybe PAS at a later point. "
If you're adding PAS, then without a display, you may only have one PAS level, which usually isn't as usable than adjustable PAS levels. If not, or if you live with one level, then there are many controller that would work.

"I'd like to stay under $450 for everything but the battery. "
Does the $450 include purchasing the bike?

If $450 doesn't include purchasing the bike, then $450 can get you a pretty decent kit, but I'd go with the 500W or more if you're going to be towing a trailer.

I think that you will find that current trends are toward controllers having display especially at the lower end of the scale. They need some method of setting various parameters such as wheel size or PAS level. Also some manufacturers are designing their controllers to always use PAS ... even if that hardware is NOT installed (case in point eBikeLing). Even if the bike is built as "Throttle Only", that throttle "feeds" the PAS system.This may be because so many foreign jurisdictions (i.e. Europe, Australia, Canada) are trending to require PAS.

Point being: A more practical approach for stealth may be to look for the smallest (less obvious) display unit.

Now just to prove how much a fool I am:
I believe that Leeds Bikes has bafang hub motors and controllers without displays.
Their choice however is generally limited to nominal 250 watt and 500 watt systems.

Leeds Bicycle Solutions
99 W Center St,
Logan, UT 84321
Phone: (866) 933-8716
Email: leedsbikes@gmail.com
https://leedsbikes.com/

E-HP said:

.... but I'd go with the 500W or more if you're going to be towing a trailer.

Click to expand...

Ditto :thumb:

https://www.amazon.com/EBIKELING-1200W-Direct-Waterproof-Electric/dp/B08BBKC6F7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=NM15JFW7IAP2&dchild=1&keywords=electric+bike+kit+20+inch+rear+wheel&qid=1627119869&sprefix=electric+bike+kit+20+inch+%2Caps%2C245&sr=8-3

This one from what is on Amazon looks like the best choice to me. Its controller has the modern, more waterproof plugs and wiring harness. Installed, the controller, display, and all wiring will look neater installed.

Don't get hung up on the display, the modern displays are quite good. 10 years ago, the typical display was useless clutter.

And yeah, get a larger direct drive motor to pull a trailer. This kit has the 500w rated motor and 22 amps controller. Run it on 36v, for about 750 watts to the motor. The motor can easily handle 1500w, and pull a heavy trailer.

The main reason for going without a display is to avoid one more indicator of electric bike-ness. I guess I could throw what looks like a grubby covid mask over top of it when I go into a store. No one would mess with it then. :lol:

Leeds stuff is looking good. I had seen their name but associated Leeds with England and assumed they were a British company. That's what I get for assuming.

And I already have the bike -- the Huffy Venice.

Thanks for the info -- I don't know if I'd seen that Amazon listing, but that's quite a viable option.

Its going to look a LOT like an electric bike. Period. You can hide batteries in panniers, and motors behind panniers if you want stealth. But guys who will mess with your bike will mess with an ordinary bike.

Don't go into the store when low lifes that are up all night stealing are awake. Shop in the AM.

But you can easily get a controller that requires no display, buying it seperately. It won't be waterproof, or very high quality. It will have the hugely obvious bundle of plugs intended to be mounted inside the shrouds of a scooter.

Just buy a decent kit with a water resistant, neat to install controller and display. The whole thing once installed will not stick out like the cheap ass kits do. Hang either your helmet or hat on the display while in the store. Nobody is going to steal your helmet.

Well, I pulled a bit of a hard left. Ebikeling had a 48v 1200w refurb kit at an unbeatable price (I did get the rear kit, not front):

https://ebikeling.com/collections/ebikeling-ebike-refurbished-kits/products/waterproof-48v-1200w-26-direct-drive-front-ebike-conversion-kit

Since it's only a 3-month warranty and it's a 26" wheel, I'll put it on my Electra Townie through the warranty period and make sure everything is skookum, then have the motor laced into a 20" wheel for the Huffy Venice.

Then I found this battery setup -- 48v 12-13ah with BMS for $125:

https://batteryhookup.com/products/fully-tested-13s-48v-14ah-673-4wh-w-bms?_pos=3&_sid=47d36b5f1&_ss=r

This charger should work after I make an interconnect, correct?

https://lunacycle.com/luna-charger-48v-advanced-300w-ebike-charger/

Anything else I need other than a better set of brake pads?

I use controllers from PSW Power;
https://www.pswpower.com/collections/controller
They have a good selection of low powered styles (sine or square) and displays are optional (They ship with a jumper).
Personally, I use their LED displays, which are sm. and inconspicuous, so I have a way to select PAS/cruise speed and to turn the system off and on.
I put blk. tape over the LED lights I don't care about.

Can you go throttle only and select a cruise speed?
Thats just the thing I am looking for.

I find with the Greentime EVFitting controllers on Aliexpress that I use, when I enable cruise by connecting the cruise wires, the sensitivity of enabling the cruise by a steady throttle for 5-10 seconds is sometimes a challenge on a bumpy pathway. Then when I am going up a hill at w.o.t. then of course cruise is enabled when I dont want it. Of course a simple flick of the throttle turns cruise off, and when in cruise mode and wanting more speed its quick to do so without having to flick the throttle off, its only a matter of being in cruise and giving it more throttle its seamless with 0.5s delay and moving faster.
I was thinking of a way I could just hit a button and have a set cruising speed. Seems like it would be easy to implement, resistance, voltage for giving speed/throttle position with switch in parallel of throttle would change values, so maybe diodes, or more switches soon to have a dashboard of switches on my rig. :lol: one to turn off thumb throttle, one for cruise one for L-brake.

This is just a quick, easy, lazy switch for L-eBrake. SPST switch. I bought a momentary switch (normall off) to try out it stays latched when the button is pressed. I do have Wuxing levers but they feel cheap.
As you can see I do like my black electrical tape

motomech said:

I use controllers from PSW Power;
https://www.pswpower.com/collections/controller
They have a good selection of low powered styles (sine or square) and displays are optional (They ship with a jumper).
Personally, I use their LED displays, which are sm. and inconspicuous, so I have a way to select PAS/cruise speed and to turn the system off and on.
I put blk. tape over the LED lights I don't care about.

Click to expand...

LongRyder said:

This charger should work after I make an interconnect, correct?

https://lunacycle.com/luna-charger-48v-advanced-300w-ebike-charger/

Click to expand...

I have that charger ... big, heavy, burned out and totally useless. Cut the cables for use elsewhere.
I have gone through several of their chargers.
You could not sell me another charger from Lunacycle on a bet.

FYI:
Best $20 I ever spent was a Drock Power meter. With XT60 Male/Female connectors I can put it between the charger and the battery to tell what is actually going into the battery or move it between the battery and controller to tell how much power I am actually using (also sold under brand names of HiLetgo, Baylite, Knarro and others):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017FSED9I

They also have them in a 50 Amp version but that requires and external shunt.

Not the waterproof controller on that kit, and the cheap display not worth having. Maybe it will work without it?

But its got the good wiring harness. Thats a definite plus. And the display could be upgraded.

Bummer about the Luna charger. Eh, as much as I saved on the battery, I should probably just spring for the Cycle Satiator and be done with it.