200mm I.S. Adapter on a 203mm rotor? --- Fixing up the ole ebike

markz

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I have a 203mm disc rotor for the front fork that has a I.S. mount using a Avid BB7 caliper.

Would this work?
A "LifeLine Disc Brake Adaptor - IS to Post (IS Front 200 or IS Rear 180)" work then figure out how many washers and which side to put them on.

In my parts bin, if I run into an adapter that has Rear 180 printed on it would be good for 200.

My parts bin just has a 203 post mount adapter that I never used.
 
200mm adapter will work for 203mm rotor, you will just need 2 washers under each side of 1.5mm thickness roughly.
 
Shim shim shimminiy shim it.

The real trouble stars when you try to put 223 rotors on 220mm adapters.

203mm rotor on 200mm adapter is easy.
 
No worries in that department, I hooked up the L-Brake electric brake and it works wonders and will save lots of money on brake pads. Though I found some cheap Avid BB7 pads and bought a couple of various materials to test out.
I just wish I hooked up L-Brake years ago, would have saved a rim or two with rim brakes, dont ask :oops:
I did a test run when I first hooked up L-brake, going slow there is little to no stopping/slowing down power, that is where traditional brakes come in to stop you the last bit. The faster you go the harder the ebrake kicks in.
So at 330lbs I went down various steep slopes and never touched the lever brakes.
What I did and want to do for L-Brake ebrake is I got a big rocker switch and taped it to the lever, and used for a cpl wks.
Then bought a Normally Off Momentary switch but lost it but would have epoxied it to the lever, but now I want to see if I can hook it up to Wuxing brake cutoff levers and see what needs to be done. Since its normally off, probably a logic switch, invertet "NOT" chip or op-amp maybe, operational amp. Its in the preliminary stages as I just thought of that last night, still need to search ES and figure out what chip/circuit is needed.

Currently I have a 180mm rear rotor with Avid BB7 caliper spaced correctly as it didnt come with concave/convex spacers which Iearned when I bought my used bike. Guy had shoved a nut in the drop out to space wheels disc not to hit caliper. When I took off wheel to change a flat the bolt fell, put wheel back, disc hit caliper. 4.5 minutes to take a drink of Stevia Cola, pick my nose and spin the tire I figured the problem. The stock caliper was a Jak Superbrake that I swapped to a Avid BB7.

Be nice to get dimensions in a nice PDF format on the various adapters to see the difference between a 160 f adapter and a 180 and 203 f adapter.


DogDipstick said:
Shim shim shimminiy shim it.

The real trouble stars when you try to put 223 rotors on 220mm adapters.

203mm rotor on 200mm adapter is easy.
 
:D
markz said:
I hooked up the L-Brake electric brake and it works wonders and will save lots of money on brake pads. Though I found some cheap Avid BB7 pads and bought a couple of various materials to test out.
I just wish I hooked up L-Brake years ago,

Yeah same here, I’m glad I connected the regen. Like you said at fast speeds it works great and slower speeds normal brakes are better. Although if you hook up an E brake switch you can use that at slower speeds as well but I still like the traditional brakes at slower speeds.

You lost your momentary pushbutton but you could test it out with the old and off switch to see if you have an E break.
Edit: Or just close the circuit by touching the wires together
 
Big ole rocker switch worked well for a week, I half ass soldered the wire to the terminals and it was solid, its just the metal tabs of switch came loose, maybe I put to much heat to the tabs.

My bad, I've been calling it a rocker switch when its a toggle.
https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/42-210-0.htm


toggle switch.png


This is the one I lost, a $2-$4 SPST (normally off)/on momentary switch, I wanted one that was a certain size. Not to small not to large. Black button of course to blend in with the pivot base of Tektro lever in black, silver levers. I would have epoxied the crap out of it to secure it to the levers.
https://www.be-electronics.com/searchresults.asp?Search=momentary+switch


switch1.png


Well I guess I will have to show you the setup and testing the Wuxing brake cutoff levers for use as a L-brake. Works good in garage, havent tested it out riding if the L-brake kicks in. Wuxing wires are very thin. Tektro cutoff levers are on the shopping list. Not sure why I thought Wuxing needed a reversed signal.

Attachments please read title of pic and comments if any.
 

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  • bare wire l-brake.jpg
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  • diode beep mode, open circuit closed lever.jpg
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  • diode beep mode, open lever connects.jpg
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  • for future reference, greentime evfitting white and black wire L-brake.jpg
    for future reference, greentime evfitting white and black wire L-brake.jpg
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  • how much movement to activate and connect circuit.jpg
    how much movement to activate and connect circuit.jpg
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  • open.jpg
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  • tabs on back of toggle switch.jpg
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  • Wuxing ebrake cutoff installed.jpg
    Wuxing ebrake cutoff installed.jpg
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So after a second of testing out the cuttoff levers I realized I didnt have my torque arm on
Saw and felt the axle rotate.
Brought it back, took a look, dropout separated a bit. But I caught it in time.

So had to cut off the slot in the old steel plate and make me a snugger fit t.a.

New ones ALL fit very snug, almost have to hammer tap it in. Way better then the previous ONE I had on b4 which had lots of slop to it because I was just to lazy on the angle grinder. This time I took my time, measured 100 times all the way through the process while shaving metal off, measuring, shaving metal off again and repeat. Can't be doing to much more grinding as rust spots appear on the driveway... so clean up the best I can, hose it down and mop it up.

The first one is real snug and has an even slot, the second ones slot is a bit waving but very little slop.
So all done on an angle grinder, I did use the rotary with cut off wheel at the last 9.50mm but I doubt it really took anything off to make 10mm. I believe the good one I got to 9.85mm did a quick one timer on the angle grinder and it did its job.

1/4 steel x 1.5" by say 3.5"

I need to buy some more hose clamps, all my remaining ones have a large area where no slots are to shorten the diameter, I guess they were probably big large hose clamps that I just cut down. You can see in the first pic, slots come right up to the bolt, I believe that was a fresh new small hose clamp.

The problem I see with the brake side is the torque arm will probably get in the way of the caliper.

My latest masterpieces
Professional yes
Enjoy


20210801_210107.jpg




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Check out this momentary switch you can screw the wires down instead of soldering. I’m using this switch for my E break. And yeah I don’t like soldering those little tabs neither because if you move them around too much the Solder will break off from the tab 😅
Recently I put a different momentary switch for my horn and I had to solder that one.

APIELE 16mm Momentary Push Button... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZDW47Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
L-Brake is not strong with the Wuxing power cutoff levers
Connect the L-Brake wires one way to the the wires of Wuxing and it acts a certain way, pulsating ebraking. The other way the L-Brake isnt strong like it was with the toggle switch I had. I dont know if the Wuxing has a fancy component inside the lever that its not beefy enough to handle the current (if thats the way it operates, or just turns pwr off and connects phases) or if the lever has some fancy P or N channel something or other, or if its just a simple push button switch like the power cutoff lever I had (not Wuxing) in the brushed ebike I bought years ago. Either way I am not impressed with the braking power when the Wuxing levers are hooked up.

I buy local whenever I can, rather support my local business then some stranger on Amazon in another city let alone probably another country. Besides $3 for a local switch for a biz that requires a $5 minimum purchase which I just grab some electrical tape because its near the cashiers, or I'll grab heat shrink because you can never have enough various sizes of heat shrink laying around. And yes I do need to utilize it, on 2 chargers I have on the solder bowls of the XT90, utilizing the cap cover.

Well it aint that hard to solder the spades of a toggle switch which stick out and wiggle.
What I might do, is put two momentum switches on, one for the left side and one for the right side... just depends which hand the beer is in.... A&W diet root beer can that is
 
markz said:
What I might do, is put two momentum switches on, one for the left side and one for the right side... just depends which hand the beer is in.... A&W diet root beer can that is

Have you considered putting magnetic switch like people do on the hydraulic brake levers? I’ve never like this option too much because there very finicky and the ones I’ve purchased both sensors are not the same sensitivity so you have to get the magnet placement almost perfect. That being said once you get them working they seem pretty solid as long as you have everything glued/JB Weld.

The only downside, you engage the E break every time you touch the brake lever compared to using a momentary switch. That was the main reason I went for a push button.
 
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