1Kw GEARED hubs finally here: New Bafang g0hs.1000.dc

Do you know what 48v rpm its wound for? In a slower wind, not crazy slow but just not fast, this could be what pedicabs and longtails have been waiting for.

No point in wound for go fast, it would just be noisy. But crazy torque has its uses!
 
70 Nm torque is stated on the spec sheet,
I read on a few threads here that Bafang supposedly overstates their torque #s, anyone real world dyno #s out there?
How is this different than the g062?
 
dogman dan said:
Do you know what 48v rpm its wound for? In a slower wind, not crazy slow but just not fast, this could be what pedicabs and longtails have been waiting for.

No point in wound for go fast, it would just be noisy. But crazy torque has its uses!

Bafang has it's own weird specifications; though on the pdf you can read "10T". Assuming gearing is the same, you should end up with approximately the same speed as a 10T classic bpm.
 
Where did you buy one?

They have had a fat bike 1000W for a while but this is for 135mm OLD by the looks of it.
 
electric_nz said:
Where did you buy one?

They have had a fat bike 1000W for a while but this is for 135mm OLD by the looks of it.

gomax on alibaba

check the pdf: OLD ist 138mm
 
In the market for something like this! Anyone have a direct link? Maybe I am a fool but I can't seem to find it.
 
Braddudya said:
In the market for something like this! Anyone have a direct link? Maybe I am a fool but I can't seem to find it.

Unfortunately it doesn't work like this. Uncommon bafang models like the new g0hs or the g360.500 (<--also a very good motor) can only be bought via an official bafang reseller. You have to contact someone like gomax, discuss all the details of the system you want before placing the order. They will deal with bafang. It makes things slow and expensive, but bafang is very very annoying to deal with. Reminds me of some government employees in my country.
 
probably will shop up aliexpress soon,

so the new motor is for a regular bike rear with 135mm OLD, nice.
 
qwerkus said:
New bafang motor: rm g0hs.1000.dc
At 5.5kg this thing should be a beast! Check out the data pdf. M14 axle, side exit - all the correct design choice. Only that exotic julet 11pin cable sucks. A 1019 would have been much better.

csm_H640_RM_G0H0.1000.DC_4de400bed7.png

RM G0H0 1000 DC电机外形图-模型.pdf

Ordered one; will try to post some pictures upon arrival.

Where did you order one?
 
Motor arrived today! First good news: it's super easy to take apart. All you need is a fancy t25 holed bit and a 17mm wrench. First bad news: would it kill you to actually grease the thing, bafang ?

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Clean bafang build with an O-ring seal like we've seen on all newer models. Also 6 magnets hall speed sensor.

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Gears leave an overbuilt impression, especially if you've seen the inside of bpm style motors. Here a comparison between an mxus GDR-19 clutch (left) and the new g0h0.1000 DC (right). Diameter roughly equal be notice the larger teeth of the gears on the bafang clutch. Sadly this also translates into a lower ratio. I count 72T ring, 18T sun and 37T carrier, which means 18/72=1:4 ratio.

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Now to the motor unit: definitely a bpm-like outrunner with 8 pole pairs. Stator width approximatly 20mm and diameter 145mm; motor unit weight including axle: around 2.8Kg.

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Interestingly enough, there is plenty of room for more signal wires. The motor comes with an exotic G11 connector, which looks very similar to L1019 connectors on ebikes.ca bikes but has one more signal wire. Sadly I could not get a tech specs file from the manufacturer, although this vendor on aliexpress claims its made by Julet (Model JL-F-L1121A) and comes with 3x2.5mm2 motor wires and +8x0.2mm2 signal wires. That's not nearly as good as 4mm2 L1019 motor wires. I briefly considered swapping the main motor cable, but it's super well potted so it would be a painful process.

Also note that only 6 out of the 8 signal wires are used. There is actually one grey stub left that looks accessible on my model, with maybe just enough wire length to solder a temp sensor. The last (purple) wire seems lost somewhere in the potting. Sad - I would have loved 2 temp sensors

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My plan with that motor is quite simple: given the additional weight (total motor + cable weight = 5.3KG), the better-than-average sealing, I ordered my motor with a spare clutch which I plan to weld to built a regen-capable geared hub. In terms of performance, I don't expect miracles, due to the rather low number of poles and the 1:4 gearing.

Fun fact: the forwarder forgot to included the extension cable(which I paid extra) into the parcel. I needed that cable to connect the controller, and I don't have fancy G11 (or bafang H640) female connectors laying around ... so now I have to wait another 3 weeks to test the motor... :shock:
 
I’m wondering if this motor would handle 2kw or so for brief periods; the fat bike version of this motor apparently will.

It will be interesting to see what top speed will be; what wheel size do you intend to run?
 
electric_nz said:
I’m wondering if this motor would handle 2kw or so for brief periods; the fat bike version of this motor apparently will.

It will be interesting to see what top speed will be; what wheel size do you intend to run?

27.5" Would probably make sense to use a smaller wheel, but I don't have a 26" frame left... Also, no Idea which winding they shipped. The stickers reads 26/27.5/28" 52V if it means anything.
 
I counted 27 teeth on the nylon planetary gears. Is that going to be hard to find spares when they eventually wear out?
 
Thanks for pulling this one apart for the world to see. I wonder what the lamination thickness is and what the efficiency looks like.

The lower pole count would make this motor more ideal for 20" and smaller wheels with a lot of volts.

I think for a 26" wheel, the lighter, higher pole count MAC is a better motor, but i'd like to see what your results are before judging it, also i cannot find a dyno graph for the motor, so the real performance numbers are an unknown.
 
Mine has arrived. Accidentally ordered the freewheel model instead of cassette but never mind. First impressions are that it’s solidly made but not too heavy, with chunky phase wires (as big as my leaf motor 1500W) so they are expecting some serious phase current!

1AF292F5-E07C-4038-BB7F-01775A7AAD8B.jpegE3DE349C-6FBA-4858-B166-A1CB38A5CF54.jpeg

Size compared to a Bafang BPM 500W. The cable is about twice the thickness.

Next question is lacing- need to get spoke sizes as they are different offset for drive side and brake side according to the diagram.
 
Thanks for posting this!

20mm x 145mm means compared to MAC/BMC, this stator is a hair narrower (20mm vs 22mm), but perhaps a hair larger in diameter? 145mm vs 135 for MAC/BMC

I wish I has seen this earlier so I could have asked how thick the laminations are. Posting a pic of the stack allows the number of lams to be counted, then divide by 20mm to get the thickness of each. 0.35mm is good, 0.50mm is evil...

The narrowness might be to accommodate the freehub, which "could" hold as many as nine gears. Once it's narrowed, one way to keep the same torque is to make it a little bigger in diameter.
 
Any tips for how to connect a g0h0 to a 9 pin controller? Or a controller that would work with 11 pin?
 
This post
indicates only six of the eight non-phase wires are actually used, so you only need 9 pins.


Unfortunately bafang has removed all the info from the motor's page on their site, so you'd have to open up the motor and continuity test which of the non-phase pins goes to which non-phase connections inside. The phases will all read connected to all three phase pins because of the internal motor wiring.

If you are cutting the connector off and replacing it with a different one, the "best" way to do that is to remove the cable from the inside and replace it with a new one (like this one from ebikes.ca Male L1019 Cable (25cm) if it's suitable for the current you need; this is the matching controller-side cable Female L1019 Cable (50cm) ).
 
mine came with a half metre extension cable and matching plug/ socket to suit the motor plug. Wiring is standard- 3 phase, 3 hall, power for hall sensors and one other white wire. I have ordered a 40A KT controller to test
 
New bafang motor: rm g0hs.1000.dc
At 5.5kg this thing should be a beast! Check out the data pdf. M14 axle, side exit - all the correct design choice. Only that exotic julet 11pin cable sucks. A 1019 would have been much better.

View attachment 314890

View attachment 314889

Ordered one; will try to post some pictures upon arrival.
Those motors are like no other bldc motors these have more of a turbine wind in the freewheel not like the older ones who would get stuck these are awesome 👍
 
First test ride completed. Goes well at 52v 41A as measured by a wattmeter. Feels punchy but the KT s12sn controller has slow throttle response (are there any good ones out there!!). It feels as powerful as my leaf motor @2500W (50A) but better acceleration possibly? Top speed was approx 50kph but not measured. Showed 57kph with wheel unloaded.

Only issue is heat- an epoxied temp sensor I have mounted in the windings shows very rapidly rising temps when using 2kw continuous up a hill. It’s winter here (10C) and still the windings showed close to 80C, which is probably not too bad but time will tell. I might look at soaking the windings in enamel or something to try and get some heat conduction

Self laced 26” wheel held together ok (pic shown before awesome Grin v4 torque arm added!). I’ve used 12/13 ga butted spokes and a Mavic ex729.

7 speed DNP freewheel with 11t smallest sprocket fits perfectly for this motor.
 

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