1) Do you use male or female on your battery controller whether be xt's or bullet connectors?
edit - Female connector on the battery side is the safe way.
1a) What would the industry norm, or an E/E would do? Yes I know it doesnt matter.
edit - Female, someone posted about your wall outlet, and I say thats by code/law
*It would be best, I would think, to have the safest (male or female) connector on the battery side, which would probably make the female best for battery side, and male side for controller.
edit - That is the correct assumption
2) Are XT90 Anti-spark only on the female side?
*I have 2 sets of Amass, probably legit as I probably bought from Grintech. But I opened the pacakage long ago and plugged m+f together for storage in my pile of xt's. It looks to me as though the male side has no destinguishing features stating its apart of the anti-spark.
edit - The anti-spark circuit is only in the female side.
3) What is the best material to place between the controller and case when reinstalling?
edit - Any non conductive material, it feels as though it might be parchment paper so there could be an electronic alternative to cooking parchment paper.
4) For the battery side of things, which side of the battery cables should have the fuse?
edit - Fuses go positive side, otherwise, from what I read, there will be a buildup of electrons on one side
4a) Which fuse is best for 36v 35a to match the controller I am repairing and the 36v has always seen that controller.
edit - 40a is common and would work.
4b) Does the voltage rating of the fuse matter?
edit - Any fuse rated for dc, 12v or 24v automotive blade fuses, you can also look at the solar industry.
*Best fuse, 40a? Of course dc rated. I will just buy whatever Grintech has and they probably have the automotive 24v 40a. Lots of others to choose from of course from Mouser and other sources.
edit - Grintech had automotive fuses, I cant remember if they were the 12v or 24v versions but I do not see it on their website for sale anymore.
edit - For question below, I was thinking theres gotta be some compact, outer sides insulated, pcb mounted connectors that would keep the wires unplugged and out of the way. Mouser.com is the place to see if such a thing exists, not seen but theres gotta be.
Just a comment - Be nice to have a pc psu style partial modular system for the nest of wires that 80% are unused. Keep the battery and phases and sense wires soldered on the pcb.
edit - Female connector on the battery side is the safe way.
1a) What would the industry norm, or an E/E would do? Yes I know it doesnt matter.
edit - Female, someone posted about your wall outlet, and I say thats by code/law
*It would be best, I would think, to have the safest (male or female) connector on the battery side, which would probably make the female best for battery side, and male side for controller.
edit - That is the correct assumption
2) Are XT90 Anti-spark only on the female side?
*I have 2 sets of Amass, probably legit as I probably bought from Grintech. But I opened the pacakage long ago and plugged m+f together for storage in my pile of xt's. It looks to me as though the male side has no destinguishing features stating its apart of the anti-spark.
edit - The anti-spark circuit is only in the female side.
3) What is the best material to place between the controller and case when reinstalling?
edit - Any non conductive material, it feels as though it might be parchment paper so there could be an electronic alternative to cooking parchment paper.
4) For the battery side of things, which side of the battery cables should have the fuse?
edit - Fuses go positive side, otherwise, from what I read, there will be a buildup of electrons on one side
4a) Which fuse is best for 36v 35a to match the controller I am repairing and the 36v has always seen that controller.
edit - 40a is common and would work.
4b) Does the voltage rating of the fuse matter?
edit - Any fuse rated for dc, 12v or 24v automotive blade fuses, you can also look at the solar industry.
*Best fuse, 40a? Of course dc rated. I will just buy whatever Grintech has and they probably have the automotive 24v 40a. Lots of others to choose from of course from Mouser and other sources.
edit - Grintech had automotive fuses, I cant remember if they were the 12v or 24v versions but I do not see it on their website for sale anymore.
edit - For question below, I was thinking theres gotta be some compact, outer sides insulated, pcb mounted connectors that would keep the wires unplugged and out of the way. Mouser.com is the place to see if such a thing exists, not seen but theres gotta be.
Just a comment - Be nice to have a pc psu style partial modular system for the nest of wires that 80% are unused. Keep the battery and phases and sense wires soldered on the pcb.