Leaf 35H (1500w) - Axle threads damaged

calab

1 MW
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
2,036
Over the years I have seen different processes done in media to fix components, what is the process called where you weld multiple beads to the axle to make it a wider diameter only to then make your threads. Just want to get a quote for the damaged threads which is only 1/2" of threads in one section but also a smaller section where the nut bottoms out while tightening and skips threads, right where threads are needed the most!

What I will have to do is buy new nuts and see how the threads are. I have tried buying them before from a specialized fastener store, and they did not fit, perhaps because the threads are boogered.

Plan B is to buy a new stator from Leaf which aint cheap, better to spend extra and just get a new Leaf 35H, this time a front hub so no more mandatory fat forks :thumb: for my rear hub in the front. Its been a real challenge to find fat forks locally, used fat forks are even harder to find for QR, straight, either forms of brake mounts, both would be nice but even rarer. Sunlite fat fork is reasonably priced but those axle threads.
BIG MISTAKE - Those stators are to small for the 35H Leaf 1500w.

I might just get a fork made, I found a guy locally who only welds steel bicycles and claims to be a bike builder, I tried to get him to fix my alum framed bike but he does steel only. He probably would only work from pre-purchased, pre-curved tubes. Those wont do, if I will get it made, an extra pound of steel wont hurt, big beefy dropouts, perhaps build in clamping ta's.

Re-threading the hollow axle (for the wires) for smaller threads came to mind but wont be wise for my needs of 1850w max at w.o.t
Its not even wise for low power people because its a safety item, to not mess with.
 
Just get out the 4in. grinder and make a clamp then weld two nuts of size and drill one to clamp may be attached to frame with hose clamps and or anchor to disc brake mount Or.
Show us some pics.
 
I am embarrassed completely with my inattention to this problem, laziness bit me in the ass cheeks again 999zip. I will have to review the Ausy Engineering Channel to find that technical term he used, for the heavy duty stuff on Cats he was doing railroad type welding of powders being blasted out of a nozzle, on another he did the same but even more technical he had it automatically spin and it was in the I.D. such a tight fit. Another less critical fix he just welded beads like pipe-liners or structural bead layers doing multi-passes/overlap. I am not a good enough welder at all.

I've been having problems with my pc for a week now, first it was I needed a new monitor as the old 27" ips LG bit the bucket as it would turn off for 4 seconds and turn on for 1 second. I hit up Walmart for some fun times in their aisles with their customers, looking at their generic pos Onn. brand of a whopping 20" (circa stone ages) but its to small, then I surf the web for local stores and snag a 24", narrow edges and its perfect, except my usb's arent recognizing anything. I brought all monitors home be ebike, one handed riding and going slow.


I may have to spring for some clean looking Grintech ta's, perhaps my steel plate is plainly to thick, so she says.
Maybe be able to grab some fresh, high, threads :mrgreen: with new nuts. :lol:

999zip999 said:
Just get out the 4in. grinder and make a clamp then weld two nuts of size and drill one to clamp may be attached to frame with hose clamps and or anchor to disc brake mount Or.
Show us some pics.

http://www.repairengineering.com/thread-repair.html



welding on new threads.jpg



[youtube]loXBMG9qppY[/youtube]

Re-thread to clean up threads
Get a Thread File from shytown.
then phone around.
 
999zip999 said:
How about a pic of the problem ?

Its real bad, be kind to me.


IMG_0209.JPG




IMG_0212.JPG




IMG_0213.JPG


Some more context, woke up this morning early and got to cleaning the house and finally got around to the ebike. Flat front tire, perfect timing as I got one good spare free found tire to put on, then go on the hunt for another free found wheel/tire. Not sure if I posted this in another thread, but I found a nice 16" ladies Infinity that I literally stripped everything except threaded fork stem and crank. Hopefully someone snagged it to use, I left it in a very good, spot, slightly hidden in the center courtyard.

Next up the hub need 3 spokes replaced and an extra 2 for spares.

Washers are homedepot, that came with a smaller center hole. The process there was trying out multiple washers to find which ones fit good to the spokes J-head. Hubs flanges for spokes are always to large, the hubs I worked on, personally 5 but also other peoples builds. I was offered to build a perfect stranger an ebike a few days ago and I refused. I used to rarely if ever get offers like that, only the determined diyer willing to spend a bit of cash. Now its just poor folk who dont know the costs invloved but think ebikes are cool and bicycle gas motors are off their radar. Everyone I seen of those, always in low networth neighborhoods and the riders look like bums, which I can see turns the potential buyers off big time.

What I might do, is relace hub into 21" mc rim x 1.40 or 1.60 wide, but I dont know the way I will move forward. There are a few options and 1) I still just might buy a front hub stator and see if my rear magnet ring fits it from Leafbike. 2) Could just buy a new or used bso fat bike, using its fork, which I may do today fixing it all, depends on price. The ebay Sunlite is about half the price of a new steel fat bike I found, steel fork is what I need.
 
Yes it is, its garbage now. Only crawl like a baby to the corner store and back now.
I'm buying a used bike only for the fork to have it instantly to install on my ebike. Good news is I will have an almost ready to ride bicycle without the front fork. I have spare forks to install and sell the whole bike, the bso isnt made for tall folks, like the old Acura Integra's.

999zip999 said:
This is a rear motor on the front fork ?
 
The low down on the axle threads, now fixed.

I went to a real fastener store (Not hd/lowes), and asked the clerk to double check the nut is 14 x 1.50 fine thread with a same bolt.

I wasnt a 4 minute bike ride (or 15 blocks from the store, distances just seem to fly by) I was waiting for the train when I tried to put the nut on.
I just couldnt resist, it didnt get on until I got home.
The threads were damaged all along, more so near the end and where the the torque arm was.
The new nut was very very yes very tight at first, at torque arm and near the axle flats
Was a hair degree less difficult but not by much between those points along the threads.
It felt like a cross-thread but I checked the depth of the nut to the axle end and it looked fine.
I just cranked on it the entire way, so much so I needed a break and it wasnt a "me being lazy break."
Looking back now, some oil as lubricant would have help out, perhaps more in and out to clear shavings out.
Machinist oil or cutting oil the machinists use, my case would have been to use wd40.


Spun the the nut in and out only twice..... on the first go I saw metal shavings fall onto my hand, and do a quadruple check threads, threads looked normal a bit shiny from straightening out and loosing a bit of material.

The cheap cheap yes cheap nut from a kit, the nuts inner threads werent as pronounced, they had a large movement wiggling the nut stationary side to side to see how much play is there, there was a lot, it would jump threads. Cheap nuts fault.

Even using the large adj wrench as a ta, the edges of the axle bent a bit, trying to take it off with hose clamps off was very very hard. The axle spun a hair and jammed it up. Takes hitting it with something hard and hammer-like, about two solid hits. The hub rotates when getting going and jammed the axles flat edge. I am getting Grins ta's.

Conclusion for me is to have tight fitting ta's from here on out and using 2 ta's.

I did take pics but this pc aint secure with my cell plugged into the pc.

----
edit
Its probably best the nut lost thread material then the axle losing MORE thread metal material then edges of the flats getting damaged, interferring with the nuts threads, making it all very tight. Buying the Grintech ta's would have been a great purchase when I was wasting money on this hobby like buying 50-80w hobby chargers for example is waste of money. Lots of money wasted buying other stuff but well worth the price paid to log-off, turn the screen off and look up at the birds and clouds along with looking down only to look at the grasshoppers.
Fun times!

If I could run my fingernail to compare the thread depths of the nut vs axle, the axle threads always felt it had sufficient thread height.

The only concern I have now, having a quality nut is damaging the threads, but zero play side to side stationary.

Surely theres got to be a caliper to measure thread depths of nuts.
 
So you basically used a new nut as a thread die to clean up damaged axle threads?
 
Back
Top