Making a truing and wheel building stand for most motors

999zip999

100 TW
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Jan 10, 2010
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Dana Point So. Cal
:wink: So getting rid of my old turning stand out of a bed frame this one is going to be a little more custom.IMG_20221218_162927285.jpg[attachment=2]IMG_20221218_162927285.jpg[/attachment
So the first two are my original bed frame stand where it was already riveted and I just used it and made one weld at the top then cut it open for 10 mm axle.
The last two are the new frame that I had to cut up differently one where I put a little 1 inch filler and the other for a 7-in filler which would make the bottom pivot 22 in I'm going for 15 in high.
I'm going to make it for front motors I believe are 110 mm and all the way to 170 mm for the 50 mm magnets. I guess that should cover it ?
Anybody have anything to add before I start welding and cutting this thing up I might want to make it thicker at the top with a plate up there that would be wider and enough room to put a big axle nut on.]
 

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Okay finally got back around to making this wheel stand out of a bed frame and two in. square post materialIMG_20230116_165841209.jpgView attachment 2
Here's some pics where I got to so far I'm going to figure out how high I want to place the wheel up in the air but I can adjust this for front wheels of 110 mm 135mm 142mm and 150 mm
 

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The reason for these is the park tool stand I have barrowed is where the axle meets the V for round axles on the park tool and needs a 10mm slot with a U slot for the 10mm flats and
U shape bottom. To hold the heavy motor straight
 
999zip999 said:
The reason for these is the park tool stand I have barrowed is where the axle meets the V for axles on the park tool and needs a 10mm slot with a U slot for the 10mm flats and
U shape bottom. To hold the heavy motor straight.

I like the idea of a ebike hub specific truing stand, with heavy duty parts like you're using. I thought of adding some bracing to the cheapo stand I bought, since it can wobble or get skewed easily since it's flimsy. I'd rather have fewer bells and whistles and adjustments if they aren't going to be precise anyway, and opt for a solid platform that won't budge. I have an old bedframe in my hall closet, so interested in how you go about putting this together.
 
I like the fact that it's adjustable in and out and to hold the axle properly I want to have to make some thicker plates thicker than the bed stand angle iron. I'm having a hard time welding it as the steel seams of a harder brittle type that needs more heat to mig weld. Plus I'm using the cheapest harbor freight welder with a transformer on 100 ft cord 14 gauge. I might need a hotter outlet. I guess that's what my 4-in angle grinders for.
P.S. I went to the A.W. , dogman School of welding I have a certificate.
 
More pics.
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This is how far I gotten I want the top to be 16 but it turned out to be 15 as my cutting skills and how to go about this what's wrong first you cut the bottom flap of the angle iron facing you both the same measurement and also square everything up because there's some movement in this 2x2 that I made that center line in to bolt both of them together they just got a square that helps everything line up.
Then cut the angle with a square after you find the center of the two arms so after three different cuts it came out perfect but not 16 in I had a settle for 15 in but that's okay I'm putting that 3x3 plate there because it's thicker than the angle iron and I can actually get a bolt on the axle and tighten it down the angle iron on the bed frame is too thin and to the combine the angle iron and the thickness of this 3x3 metal would make a mess when I was grupping around I found some D.D magnets if someone wants 1or 2 as they brake when you have to reglue them. Plus the cord is to long and makes just spates. I got that harbor freight welder in a trade
Plus thoughts 3x3 pieces of iron will let me make a better 10 mm slot and I'd have one more time to true everything up. When I weld it on top.
 

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That horse didn't work for truing the rear rim I'm going to have to complete this project the reason I stopped is my welder is just making water droplets more than a bead. It's a cold weld.
Once I weld this together I want to put plates to put on top I have the three by three inch plate already I need it for its thickness to better hold the motor and Axle in place. Plus it gives me a better chance of getting straight.

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Got my 12ga 25ft. Cord and borrow my neighbor's outlet and it welded a lot better. Still need my 4in grinder. And made my plates on bend plywood table ???
Here's what I made. These will give me some room to correct things. I still have to cut the 10mm slot to the drill holes. Will cut narrow and file tight after welded. Or better cut the slots then file after ?

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Okay got brave and welded the fat adapters for running big and small motors. From 110mm to 150mm or bigger just square it up ez-erer.

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Cutting the slots made me nervous as this is where at the end you can actually f****** up. You can see in the picture I use want a dog mens 9215 motors maybe I can rewire that little 28 mm rotor or just move on.

Adjustable yaa.
 
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