Any recommendations about a durable tire/tube combination?

Well, the day after finishing an E-bike, I got a flat on the front wheel (where the motor is).

Now that just stinks. But, the valve stem went bad (not sure how, but where the stem meets the valve it leaked).

So, any suggestions on avoiding this problem in the future?

Thanks

Not sure about the stem problem, might be a bad install. Take a file to remove any burrs around the stem hole when installing the new tube. Be sure the tube is lined up correctly.

Thorn tubes are a good choice for puncture resistance. Slime has an extra thick tube with the stuff inside it. I didn't like the regular slime tube, since I got a pinch flat with it and it just became one big mess that you could not patch due to the slime leaking out. Swore off using it, but ended up getting the thicker version last year because I could not find any thorn tubes in local bike shops and didn't want to wait. So far it been good, and I expect a pinch flat wouldn't happen with the thicker tube. It's a heavier setup, but worth not having flats. I'm also using a tire liner; it's a thick plastic layer between the tire and tube. Suppose to be puncture resistant. I had so many rear flats last year that I was determined to stop it, even if it ended up heavy. Never had a front flat though, less weight and torque probably.

MikeFairbanks said:

So, any suggestions on avoiding this problem in the future?

Click to expand...

Mike,

Don't hit trees! I'm not being smart ass here, well, maybe a little. There's no way to know with any certainty, but it's likely that the tremendous force when you hit the tree deformed the tire and tube to the point that the stem was damaged by the valve hole in the rim. If the damage to the wheel was only the valve stem of the tube, you are almost unholy lucky. When you checked the wheel for true, did you look not only for wobble, but for any difference in the distance of the outside of the rim from the axel? I don't know what that's called but someone else will chime in on that. As the wheel spins and you are looking at it from the side at a reference point, perhaps the top of the forks, does the rim look like it's going up and down as it spins? If so, you need some truing to avoid a rougher ride and perhaps a repeat of the damage of the valve stem.

For my ebike, I just buy the thickest downhill tubes that i can fit under my tires. I don't care about the weight and flats are a huge pain.

Also i would suggest using presta valve tubes as they are an all around better system.

The rim hole didn't cut the valve stem.

The leak is right where the brass valve meets the rubber at the top of the stem, a good inch or more above the hole.

What I think happened is partially what you said, Doc. The force of the wheel hitting the tree probably put too much pressure, causing the seal between the valve and the valve stem to tear a bit. Just bad luck.

I'll put a new tube on it today and get riding again.

Thanks

I have the hardest time getting thick Presta tubes to seat properly around the valve stem. I finally said screw-it and drilled my rims for Schrader stems. Use 21/64" or 8.3mm drill bit...

Mike - take a very, very serious look at that rim. I'm with Ron and I've had a few crashes that I thought everything was okay with the wheel/rim/motor but under more careful inspection revealed some damage.

One incident was enough unseen damage to my tire bead that about 3 weeks later the tube slipped in between a small rip that started along the bead and blew out. Luckily, that was on rear of my kick bike but still, goes to show that unseen accident collision damage can and will result in some related component failure down the road.

Think about the amount of force it took to bend and break that fork stem? That was a hard shot to the front wheel.

check out my flat protection system

https://sites.google.com/site/shelbyelectro/bike-design/design/tires-and-flat-protection

over 3000 flat free miles

I agree, fat tires are the way to go. Going higher speeds increases the probability of pinch flats, and bigger tires are more comfortable at those high speeds anyway. Plus they handle large braking loads better, especially in the wet.

Has anyone tried these new Michelin Protek Max innertubes?
I don't think anyone has them in stock yet. They are only 8 dollars too.


http://www.cyclingnews.com/features...tain-cross-tires-coming-to-you-in-2011/143637

MikeFairbanks said:

The leak is right where the brass valve meets the rubber at the top of the stem, a good inch or more above the hole.

Click to expand...

I have had this happen more than once, usually with the cheap tubes like they have at Walmart, Target, and the like (as opposed to the slightly better ones by Cheng Shin usually found in Slime brand products as well as on some walbikes, etc.).

My least favorite two times this happened were in the middle of the night when the brass valve stem actually blew out of the rubber and shot across the room, with the bang scaring the dog (and me), and when I was on the way home from a long day at work on the hot canal path (both of these were prior to my ebike experiments, IIRC).

In the first case it was probably a pressure thing. IIRC I'd aired the tire up cuz it was feeling low when I was out riding in cooler weather, then brougth it inside where it was a lot warmer, and after a while the increased pressure was too much for it, blowing the stem out. This is likely the most similar to your tube's failure mode.


I have not had this happen even with cheapy thin tubes off junk bikes, in the couple of years since I had a run of tube/stem problems, so I'm not sure of exactly why it happened several times in fairly quick succession to me around then.


That said, I don't know what tubes are commercially available right now, but I have yet to have any problems with the Cheng Shin brand ones, (or their tires), which includes all the Slime brand tubes I've had, IIRC.

The only thing that stopped all my flats are the super thick slime tubes. I've had bad luck with punctures on my 20 mile commute and these tubes have saved me from road side repairs at least 4 times. I have found the thinner slimes also work, but tend to be more puncture prone and do not re-seal as many times as the thicker ones.

As for tires, I'm now running Continental Town&Country which reduce rolling resistance in comparison to the original, WTB Moto Raptor knobbies. Even my knobbies were punctured by road debris. I also had a sidewall blow-out on a Serfas Drifter City tire. I found tube protectors, STOP flats2 tire liners, provided insufficient protection and I've pulled wires and debris out of the tires and liners more than a few times.

Get the heavier, Super Thick Slime tubes.

Eric

I can't say how this will hold up (yet) because I am still building my bike and have no miles on it...but this is what I am going with:

Sunlite Bicycle Thorn Resistant Tube 26 x 2.35-2.75 Extreme 2.25mm Thick
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Bicyc...TF8&coliid=I38BI7ZPH4WUFG&colid=3OKJ21KQD131X

Stop Flats 2 Bicycle Tire Liner / Tube Protector (Sage Color 26 X 2.25 - 2.5)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/STOP-Flats-Bi...TF8&coliid=I327RW4U7MQ3EJ&colid=3OKJ21KQD131X

Maxxis Holy Roller BMX/Urban Bike Tire (Wire Beaded 60a, 26x2.4)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Roller...TF8&coliid=I1STPFPWEQ6CNL&colid=3OKJ21KQD131X

Link to the whole shopping list on amazon: http://amzn.com/w/3OKJ21KQD131X

I should have pretty good luck & I think I will pick up some "SLIME" to put in the tubes too

Swalbe Marathon plus tyres!! I've done over 2000miles on one set flat free! Tubes are standard though, and it's on a normal hybrid bike, not electric. But I swear by them!

While this doesn't address the op's stem issue it is a new development by a respected manufacturer. Third party testing should bear more info in good time.

http://www.gizmag.com/michelin-protek-max-presses-punctures-closed/18333/

Oh crap! I got the tires and tubes below:

thenate1 said:

I can't say how this will hold up (yet) because I am still building my bike and have no miles on it...but this is what I am going with:

Sunlite Bicycle Thorn Resistant Tube 26 x 2.35-2.75 Extreme 2.25mm Thick
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Bicyc...TF8&coliid=I38BI7ZPH4WUFG&colid=3OKJ21KQD131X

Stop Flats 2 Bicycle Tire Liner / Tube Protector (Sage Color 26 X 2.25 - 2.5)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/STOP-Flats-Bi...TF8&coliid=I327RW4U7MQ3EJ&colid=3OKJ21KQD131X

Maxxis Holy Roller BMX/Urban Bike Tire (Wire Beaded 60a, 26x2.4)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Roller...TF8&coliid=I1STPFPWEQ6CNL&colid=3OKJ21KQD131X

Link to the whole shopping list on amazon: http://amzn.com/w/3OKJ21KQD131X

I should have pretty good luck & I think I will pick up some "SLIME" to put in the tubes too

Click to expand...

But I went to install my Avid BB7 brakes on my front wheel tonight and found that the disk doesn't appear to screw on my cheapo quick release hub. Any recommendations on which wheel I should look at that will let me screw on the Avid BB7 disk? I had no idea that I would have to make sure it was compatible...I just assumed lol

The disc should mount on the hub motor in your case, if the motor does not have a disc mount cover, you'd have to look for one. The brake caliper mounts on the fork and might need an adapter to fit with the disc, if your fork does not have a caliper mount you'll have to shop for a new fork.

MadRhino said:

The disc should mount on the hub motor in your case, if the motor does not have a disc mount cover, you'd have to look for one. The brake caliper mounts on the fork and might need an adapter to fit with the disc, if your fork does not have a caliper mount you'll have to shop for a new fork.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice MadRhino...and bwt your avatar pic always distracts me - whats the story behind that?

Anyway...My frame is the Tidalforce S-750 frame, it definitely supports disk brakes. I originally wanted to put my disc braked on the rear wheel, my motor does support disk brakes but over time I am concerned about "slop" on the motor housing so I wanted to install on the front just to be on the safe side. But my front wheel (the center hub where all the spokes connect) has no holes to screw in the disc. So I need a new wheel with a compatible mounting holes in the center. Sorry if I was unclear about my problem.

thenate1 said:

MadRhino said:

The disc should mount on the hub motor in your case, if the motor does not have a disc mount cover, you'd have to look for one. The brake caliper mounts on the fork and might need an adapter to fit with the disc, if your fork does not have a caliper mount you'll have to shop for a new fork.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice MadRhino...and bwt your avatar pic always distracts me - whats the story behind that?

Anyway...My frame is the Tidalforce S-750 frame, it definitely supports disk brakes. I originally wanted to put my disc braked on the rear wheel, my motor does support disk brakes but over time I am concerned about "slop" on the motor housing so I wanted to install on the front just to be on the safe side. But my front wheel (the center hub where all the spokes connect) has no holes to screw in the disc. So I need a new wheel with a compatible mounting holes in the center. Sorry if I was unclear about my problem.

Click to expand...

Yep, I didn't realize that you had a rear motor. You need a disc hub, either lace one in your wheel or trade a new one. Regen switch should be on the rear brake lever. I recommend 2 disc brakes and mounting the best in the front, on my bike a rear BB7 because the cable matches an E-brake lever, and a good Hydro in the front.
The pinup idea is from the automobile salon, where they used to show the fancy cars with sexy babes besides, that made the car stealth to me. :wink:

So decided to just break down and call niagaracycle.com and explain my problem. They gave me 3 different choices (a high medium and cheap) cost choices.

I got the WTB Dual Duty shimano 6-Bolt Disc Front Wheel 26 x 1.75 32H Blk/Blk


* For either rim brakes or disc brakes
* This is a front wheel

Rim: WTB Dual Duty FR, 28mm Width, Pinned, Double Wall, W/Eyelets, Black Hub: Shimano Deore, Cass, 6 Bolt Disc, Black. Spokes: Stainless

http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=20793

It was on sale for $45!!! So I am happy!!!! Thanks for all the help everyone!!

i was ripping 2 or 3 stems a month.i would get to work pull my bike into the warehouse with the tire up
go to lunch come back and it would be flat. so i think sombody is screwing with me
then it starts at my home too
i spent a lot on tubes only too have them rip when the bike is not moving-i swear-
so now i running bells no mor flats soild tubes
no air
no valve-you can take a drill to them
they ride like cement - real hard witch i don't like- but no more flats
slim

I should of have avoided the thicker slime tubes, even though I knew better. My impatience got the better of me. I got ready for my first ride of the year, temps reached 80 degs today. Only 2 miles out from the house heading to one of the local trails when I notice the rear tire bouncing badly. Sure enough it was my first flat of the year. I tried pumping it several times with no results. I knew better than to try to patch it, since all you get is slime oozing out, ruining the patch. Walked it home, never again will I use a slime tube. At least with a regular thorn tube I could patch it and keep going.

Once the air is out, if you flat-squeeze the tube to squish away the slime from the hole, then wipe off the slime with a cloth, you can do the scratch-up-and-patch to it same as any regular tube.

But if the slime couldn't plug the hole, it must've been a fairly large one. I've had holes as big as the 1/8" they specify for it plugged up ok with just the slime, though I have had to pump it just a couple strokes and then spin, or even let the hole sit at the bottom for a couple minutes till the slime runs down to the bottom (longer in cold weather), and then pump it a couple strokes, wait for any hissing to stop, pump some more, slowly until I've got it staying aired up. With any of the slime-only pluggings, though, I have to not try to take the tire off and check it, as that usually loses some of the slime that would've otherwise plugged the hole.


Since I use the chunky slime for tubeless tires in mine, though, it stops even bigger holes, up to 1/4" claimed, I think, though I don't recall the largest I've ever had plugged.

Of course, none of that helps with sidewall problems. (well, it can, if you can get the bike or wheel laid down on it's side to where the slime will pool in that spot, but it's usually too high up the side to work for me).

But the last couple years or more (three, actually, I think) I haven't had a flat on the main bikes because of the slime protector strips, except for that one roofing nail in teh swarm of them that made it thru, and the blown valve stems on teh crappy tubes.

I really like the Panaracer DH tubes. Good tubes, a little on the heavy side, however, they hold the air, no need to fill them up all the time. They are not cheap but worth the money.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TU408A01-Panaracer+Supertube+-+Double+Thick.aspx

I use 5x thick tubes with slim inside in the rear. Served me fine for almost 2 years. But the Big Apples I have are serving no puncture protection whatsoever so its a catch 22.

+1 on super thick slime tube..

20 THOUSAND miles in 3 years, same TUBE AND TIRE!
(24" front (no hub motor))

Rear tire (hub motor) I use basic slime inside tube..
(rear tire is 20 x 4.25; slime doesnt make a super thick 20x4.25 tube )
I get about 5 (smallish) punctures till I have to replace tube in the rear, although my max has been up to 9 before needing replacement!