LandRider Autoshift

Hi, my name is Rob and this is my first post. I have been planning an e-bike build for several weeks now and have found this forum an excellent resource for information and ideas. My bike will be a lipo mid drive hubmotor full suspension. On to my question. After reading through one of AmberWolf's build threads he mentioned using a Landrider automatic shifting derailleur, and the concept of this piqued me as I had been previously unaware of such a device. I am not opposed to conventional shifting, I am however intrigued by what could be considered a lightweight incremental cvt. Upon googling Landrider it would seem the bike itself is a home shopping special of high price incommensurate to the parts and qualityof build. As i understand it from the information i have found is that the derailleur moves as speed increases when the flyweights move apart and that the problem for more serious riders is that gearshifts happen at around a cadence of 45. For my build and gearing the ideal motor driven cadence would be 105. Does anyone who has more experience with this system believe this shifting cadence could be adjusted with heavier flyweights or an increase in flyweight arc. Apologies if this is in the wrong section or doesnt make sense, it's more than half my life away since I studied physics.

I haven't seen a Landrider up close before but...

Why is your ideal cadence 105?

Many people find it quite uncomfortable to maintain a cadence over 100.

Most cycle between 60-80 rpm, athletes around 90 rpm. Lance was an oddball maintaining 110. Sprinters max out around 170.
Stats from the wiki page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_(cycling)

Apologies for not making it clearer, the crank cadence of 105 is when driven by the downtube mounted hub motor on a freewheeling crank. This is at its calculated maximum motor efficiency. It is more than possible my assumption is wrong.This is an idea I am thinking outloud after hearing of the autoshift last night. My hypothetical idea being that it could be possible to modify the autoshift through increased mass to flyweights or increased arc of movement to maintain roughly constant crank cadence ensuring less stress on the hub motor and greater electrical efficiency. Not having one to hand to visualize, and at this moment in time not seeing any obvious reasons for it not to work. I would appreciate anyone who has experience of the system to offer their input. A quick search of ebay USA last night yielded no autoshifts for me to buy and experiment with. For my build I will go ahead with a standard derallieur. This idea is something I will play around with, as and when I can find one to play with.

While auto shifting may offer acceptable performance for some (few) cyclists, automatic shifting of a motor powered system requires some sort of slip mechanism to give it a chance to last.

I think the weights need to be smaller, not bigger. If there are springs involved, then stiffer springs may help do what you want. I tuned my Comet Torq-a-verter CVT to better match an electric motor by changing the springs. I didn't fool with the weights.