Brake High / Brake Low

shenzhen_ex

100 W
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
224
Location
Shenzhen, China
I am 2 days away from getting my battery pack delivered for my first E-bike. I need help setting my bike up so when the battery gets hooked up it will run.

My controller has a connector for "Brake Low Level" that is normally 5V+ (see first image below). Can I leave this disconnected or do I need to add a 5V+ to turn on the controller. If I need the 5V+ where can i get it from?

I also have a "Brake High Level" connector that is normally 0v (see second image below), can I just leave that disconnected :??? .

I swear if this bike runs it will be in large part due to the help I am receiving here on endless-sphere.

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Shen -

Brake High Level = Normally 0 (or Default as we say). If you use this for your brake signal then you will need to pull it High -> to +5V. Most of us don't use that route, though it's nice to have.

Brake Low Level = Normally +5V (defaults to +5V). To activate brake we pull that one down to GND. This is the one most of us use because GND is easy to find.

Depending on whether you use a Hall Effect or Microswitch or some other method to invoke brakes, your normal/default condition will be the one used when riding normally, and you'll want to change the state to the opposite when braking.

Use which ever is convenient, but not both :wink:

Best of luck on your integration, KF
 
Kingfish said:
.....your normal/default condition will be the one used when riding normally, and you'll want to change the state to the opposite when braking....

OK, Thanks KF. That means I can ride with both brake types disconnected.

Someday I may connect them, perhaps after I get a more powerful setup. For now I will count on my 203mm hydraulics to stop me. Oh yeah, and I also have 3 kill switches :roll:
 
On my controller, the brake -hi line actuates electronic braking when pulled to battery positive voltage. It provides powerful braking to a halt, but uses battery power to do so. The brake-lo actuates when a ground is applied to it. It provides regen braking that puts energy back into the battery, but only works down to ~5-10mph depending on the voltage you are using. On my 72V controller for either to work properly the battery pack voltage has to be at a range close to the default voltage of the controller. At default settings both would stop working once battery pack voltage got above ~78V. Worked perfect on 18s lipo which maxed out a little over 75V. When I went to 24s which maxes out at 100.8V I had to change the LVC voltage from ~ 62V to ~84V for it to work again.
 
wesnewell said:
On my controller, the brake -hi line actuates electronic braking when pulled to battery positive voltage. It provides powerful braking to a halt, but uses battery power to do so. The brake-lo actuates when a ground is applied to it. It provides regen braking that puts energy back into the battery, but only works down to ~5-10mph depending on the voltage you are using.....


wesnewell, On my controller (shown in the first post images) I only have the 2 brake connectors, high and low. I assume at least one is the brake cut-off. Maybe one is regen, or that electronic braking? But I have 2 geared hubs so I wont be hooking that up.
 
The functions are normally hooked up through the ebrakes, and both will also cut power to the motor. Even though you can't get regen or braking with a geared motor, you should still hook up the ebrakes to cut the motor when you need to stop fast. Either will do that.
 
The low level brake connector is for a normal switch. When you join the two wires, the controller cuts power. Leave them disconnected if you don't want to use brake cut-off switches. You can also use the wires to connect a switch to put your controller in standby mode (no power output), but it will still draw a bit of power because everything is active except output.

IMPORTANT
You controller also has the dreaded ignition wire that catches out a lot of noobs. If you look at the battery connector, there's three wires. The thin red is the ignition wire, and it must be connected to the thick red for the controller to be active, so, if you put a switch on it, that can also work as a standby switch. It's better than the above method because it cuts nearly all the power into the controller, so you can leave your bike off for a longer time without draining the battery, although it's best to disconnect the battery if you won't be using your bike for a longer time.
 
d8veh said:
T
IMPORTANT
You controller also has the dreaded ignition wire that catches out a lot of noobs. If you look at the battery connector, there's three wires. The thin red is the ignition wire, and it must be connected to the thick red for the controller to be active, so, if you put a switch on it, that can also work as a standby switch........

d8veh, Im using those dreaded ignition wires for my thumb kill switches ( i have them hooked up to B+)for each controller!! I am a total noob, darn I hope this will run. 48 hrs and my battery will be here.
 
shenzhen_ex said:
I am 2 days away from getting my battery pack delivered for my first E-bike. I need help setting my bike up so when the battery gets hooked up it will run.

My controller has a connector for "Brake Low Level" that is normally 5V+ (see first image below). Can I leave this disconnected or do I need to add a 5V+ to turn on the controller. If I need the 5V+ where can i get it from?

I also have a "Brake High Level" connector that is normally 0v (see second image below), can I just leave that disconnected :??? .

I swear if this bike runs it will be in large part due to the help I am receiving here on endless-sphere.

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file.php

high brake= active braking
low brake= regen?
 
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