2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor

[knutselmaaster]

It isn't a motor for throttle only usage, you will need more power to achieve that.

If the motor stops at full throttle it might be the throttle voltage that is too high, does it give an error on the display?
If not, it might be the throttle that has a problem, does the motor run without problems if you run it with PAS sensor?

For the settings, check your display manual. It is important to set up all parameters!

[max3d]

Hi, thanks for thinking along.

I never use only throttle, I'm so used to cycling that I can't

No errors on display, the PAS sensors is not yet installed as I'm not sure how to do that correctly.

I have the KT-LCD3 display and can't find any reference to P settings; maximum riding speed, wheel diameter, metric units. Nothing else.

[knutselmaaster]

Search for the full manual, not the user manual. You'll probably find it here with the forum search.

[max3d]

Found it

Current P1 parameter setting is 104 (off factory) that's for a 700C, 48V, 15A KT controller, rear wheel motor. Should that be changed to 88?

I see that P1 = motor gear reduction ratio×number of rotor magnet pieces. Would they have made a mistake in the factory by setting it to 104?

[knutselmaaster]

I believe that it is the right setting, I'll check tomorrow when I'll be back in my shop.
This setting doesn't influence the functioning of the motor but if it is way off, the max speed limit kicks in too soon thus stopping the motor.

If you ride without PAS, you should also check P4 and C4 settings.

[max3d]

My plan is to certainly install the PAS sensor as it's an obligation as well as something I prefer. The gas handle would only be used for steep hills if I have to (re-)start halfway.

[Ecyclist]

My plan is to certainly install the PAS sensor as it's an obligation as well as something I prefer. The gas handle would only be used for steep hills if I have to (re-)start halfway.

You will also find it handy at busy intersections.

[max3d]

Well, after installing the PAS sensor no progress. Power was still cut at a certain resistance (hill / grass).
Swapped the controller for another brand new one: same issue.

Tested the battery; it's perfectly capable of producing the needed amperage.

The power is cut not above a certain wattage (I can see it going as high as low in the 700W area), but in relation to a certain resistance. Up until level 3 it delivers continuous power depending on PAS rotation. Above level 3 the power is there for a second or two and then immediately the drive stops. I need to stop rotating the pedal and restart to get the motor going again with the same result.

The gas handle behaves in an identical way, but is more difficult to precisely control the cut off point.

Resistance is here defined as either going up a steeper hill, driving through grass or using the brake in a mild way. I use the pedals with limited force as it gets me going and then the motor stops. Putting more power on the pedals makes no difference.

So the only thing left is the engine, but I'm clueless as in what could cause this.

I'm stuck with this problem which occurred after a trouble free 45 mins of first riding and is now persistent

[knutselmaaster]

That indeed is a strange problem.
Does the problem occur in both High and Low?

[max3d]

Tested; seems to only happen in low gear. In high gear I can keep delivering power at @700W for a few mins while going up a hill until the resistance is too high to get up even while heavy pedaling. Then the power cuts as well, but that makes sense.

In low gear the power cuts already at lower wattage and while still pedaling at a 10km/h rate at Pas level > 3. When using the gas handle while moving (so not from standstill) the power cuts immediately. Again this only happens if there is such resistance like a hill or driving through grass.

The controller doesn't get hotter than 32 degrees Celcius and the motor at its hottest spot (at the axle where the cable leaves) will be 42 Celcius max so far.

[knutselmaaster]

This motor isn't equipped with temperature sensors, nor any other "overcharge" protection. (At least, the versions that I know)
Maybe there is a HAL sensor that is moving, a bad isolated motor winding or a mechanical problem.
You could try opening the motor to check the internals for loose or damaged elements.
If you bought the motor new and it never functioned correctly, you could just ask your seller to swap it under guarantee.
700W is a lot for this small motor by the way, I never let them pass 500W and most of the time I keep them below 400W.

[max3d]

Thanks for thinking along. This topic is no longer very active so I guess I will have to go back to Xiongda and ask Bonnie for a solution. Wish I had a clearer understanding of the issue to report.

(btw, I ordered it specifically for 48V / 15A and power in low gear cuts much earlier, somewhere above 250W)

[knutselmaaster]

Indeed, with 48v the power will get (33%) over the values that I stated in my previous post.
I mostly use 36v motors.
Bonnie will help, don't worry, she is very kind.