new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

The Currie 24V 450w motors, MY1018z etc., are the only direct replacements for your eZip, as requested in your "Re: new eZip motor" thread.
Great basic reliable motor that pushes nicely towards 700w with 36V.
Can be run from 1V ⋙ 50V+ with any brush controller, but limit amps above ~44V or will shear the sprocket key.
Best of all, uses 410 sprockets and chains, so does not require damaging and power robbing chain tightness, I have run daily for years with never any chain problem. Large selection of gearing options helps fit most any needs, motor sprockets\freewheels from 9-24+ and wheel sprockets\freewheels from 16-32+.
My current most used eZip, with Currie motor, is my Snow Beast™, pumped up to 36V 675W pushed through 9/22t sprockets, on studded tires for 20mph through slush, snow and ice.
36V 13.2Ah 3x Samsung "hoverboard" 18650 batteries weigh about 6lb.

The my1018z motor is getting rare and pricey, alternative, as project motor is the 24V 350W MY1016z3.
Very affordable and seems comfortable at 36V 525W. It has a nice mounting plate and works nicely, singly or doubly, on eTrike rears. 48V controller through switch allows parallel to series conversion, higher torque 2x 24V 28A motors to higher speed 2x 48V 14A motors. (TURBO!)



Oh, brush motors reverse easily ...

[calab]

Looks like curtis either deleted his own posts in the other thread named the same title in off topic discussion, to which no one responded to which would have deleted the entire thread....or....

Curtis your new thread in the off topic section won't be as popular.

Is there a list or website that lists all the different versions and variations of those motors?
Trust me I tried looking and looking in order to pinpoint higher power motors.

Oh, brush motors reverse easily ...

edit
Current time is 11:17pm so that is pretty amazing, I noticed you logged in prior to that at 10:24pm.
You are pissed off and wont post but you are still logging in, seeing that your off topic thread got deleted called the same ezip motor I assume you wanted to continue talking about personal matters. No one really wants to hear that, not in detail maybe some like to hear of it in a general short manner but you dont do that. See the thing is its an ebike thread, its not like you could have never have talked about personal matters, its just you talked about it to much.

Last active:
Tue Jan 25, 2022 11:14 pm

I really don't know why I even bother to post here anymore.

College is a waste of time for the most part, you learn way more when not in college. University is a colossal waste of time unless you choose one of three routes, engineering, engineering or engineering. It is not necessary because when it comes to ebikes, there is nothing really technical to learn. Ohms law is elementary, most of the time I have to google the power formulas that usually pops up in a pizza pie graph http://www.olicognography.org/drawings/ ... ormula.jpg so 36v 360w should really be 36v 10a

Yea. Been awhile since college.

[tomjasz]

Yikes! Nearly as ridiculous as the OP.

[Ianhill]

Im losing faith at a rapid pace, is the human race as a whole this weak minded ?, i feel privaliged to even have basic thought process after reading this but for some of us its clearly not as easy to grow up when the guidance in life falls to ourselves at later age we may already be broken or ready to brake keepimg life on track is more like walking a tight rope,
Anyone who is on here has the capability to write a message use the internet so its not a im too dull problem its im useless and thats sad we dont take pride in ourselfs even if failure happens self pride must never die or we go with it, heres a sad example

[latecurtis]

Looks like a very maneuverable ebike, very well balanced too
You are going to end up walking bow legged riding that "ebike"
And that controller is absolutely huge, is that a 24fet to run you 24v 500w motor?

It is an 1,800W brushless motor with 20S - LTOs. Controller is 38 amps and rated at 1,500W. Not able to ride it in 3 feet of snow. Waiting on the weather to change. Then plan on shooting a video with dual cameras. A small Cannon powershot to record all data from a power meter and my sunglass camera for the road ahead and a speedometer.

If DA. wants to he can post a graph on the measured performance vs. theoretical (what it should be for maximum efficiency) of the e bike and EVERY e bike I own. That way I can make improvements / upgrades as needed. That is all I ever wanted. To build and test e bikes first and worry about how they look later.

My 10 gauge wiring is rated at 30 amps continuous which = 53V * 30A = 1,590W (RMS) continuous.
However some wise ass will tell me I need to take the whole thing apart and upgrade to 8 gauge. The insulation on my 10 gauge Cerrowire is rated at 221 degrees F. Sure it can handle bursts of > 40 amps for < 30 seconds but nobody else thinks so.

I was also thinking for my 3,000W brushless motor that it could be possible to run it with 10 gauge wire as 70V * 30 amps = 2,100W (RMS) continuous. That should enable 30 to 35 mph cruising. When > 40 mph is desired It should only pull 40 amps or more for < 30 seconds which should NOT be enough time to heat up the wire even close to 221 degrees F.

However LTOs are expensive and would need to spend > $300 for 70V and would weigh about 70 pounds so was thinking I keep the LTOs for up to 1,500W controllers and go with the 13S power modules in series with NAME BRAND, Ternergy or Multistar 4S - LiPo for the 3 kilowatt motor/controller. 6 gauge Cerrowire. and a 100 amp inline fuse for the negative power wire and a 100 amp DC breaker for positive (hot). (Double protection).

Outside (ambient) temperature also plays a major role in heat so may want to try > 40 mph on a cool day instead of a really hot day. that rule of thumb also pertains to the motors and controllers , not just wiring.

Of course nobody on this forum will agree with any of what I just said. I am stupid and have learned NOTHING in 8 years.


"by Ianhill"

Yea. That was entertaining.

You may want to stay on topic so you don't get banned. Is why I started the other post that got deleted. I am not posting much here anymore as sick of being ridiculed.

No matter what I build it will get picked apart here so am seeking out other e bike forums which I will post a link to in case there are a few members who can follow my thread without negative comments.

The name of my new post will be " As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns" Somebody came up with that many years ago and I just like it.

If I could I would start my own e bike forum like Marty said he was going to do but starting a website is above my computer skill level. I would need some help. DA. could help me but will he ? He also seems to think I am NOT capable of learning anything or doing anything right.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[tomjasz]

No matter what I build it will get picked apart here so am seeking out other e bike forums which I will post a link to in case there are a few members who can follow my thread without negative comments.
LC. out.

You ask for advice, and then don't use it. FFS From day 1. You're not a victim of anyone's criticism. Rather a victim of your own silly ideas. Build ONE GOOD EBIKE! Cobbled up wooden battery cases, ridiculous soldering, and peppered with personal drama. There aren't many that ever hang in when posters discover you are an askhole. (google it)

Every success for me started with actually sorting which posters had the best and most reliable information. Pretty easily sorted. DA's battery thread started me on the way. I soon discovered building batteries isn't all it's cracked up to be. It's clear to me you could've had one fine battery or two for the $$$ spent. It doesn't seem like you're having fun based on all the complaints and drama.

Good land man, do warn us where you're posting. I'm guessing they will not be as tolerant.

[latecurtis]

Not saying I am never posting here again. I was warned to stay on topic so would rather just post videos showing data from a power meter on Voltage , power and current with a GPS speedometer so can get some ideas on how to upgrade for optimum performance.

That is e bike related and on topic. If DA. wants to he can post a graph and then I can upgrade the controller or change gearing , voltage accordingly.

! Cobbled up wooden battery cases, ridiculous soldering,

I do not care what EVERY e bike I own looks like. I have like 7 or 8 e bikes , six running. I did say I want two or three looking professional with factory triangle bags and or factory racks , front wire baskets. (no wood or any other ghetto features)

My main interest is performance. NOT looks.

I will post again when I can ride and shoot a video.

Yea.

I read your post below calab. It does make sense to me. I only recently discovered silicone wire on YouTube just a few days ago. It sounds promising and will use it for my 3 kilowatt motor / controller.

Right now I am just looking forward to the day I can ride and test out my LTOs and start shooting onboard videos.

I have my own youtube channel however am extremally disenchanted that videos > 5 years old get deleted. There were several videos where I achieved 28 and 29 mph on the flat and one with dual motors going up a steep hill in Schenectady NY. that are gone.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChRTA4 ... Oc5O1sU1nA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7K1LSP9sPag&t=120s

That video is the same e bike with the LTOs and 1,800W brushless motor. It had a 36V - 800W motor on the front and 24V - 500W on the back @ 36V 750W. gearing was around 22 mph I think and total power was 750W + 800W = 1,550W.

I took it up one of the steepest hills in Schenectady NY. back then and performed flawlessly. it was the same hill I burned out the stock Currie 450W motor a few years before as it was before I joined the forum and had no clue how to gear an e bike. I could not find that video.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

[calab]

A new term rms root means square instead of continuous or max, that is an improvement somethings changing I can feel it.
Wire is rated for amps, the voltage is for the insulation and the temp well I always figured it was a factor of the amps which is how much the wire insulation heats up due to the current passing through it along with environmental temp factors. I would not be so focused on the temperature rating but I see where you get that from. DA did post on what improvements you can do, but I doubt he has the time to spend to make graphs for you, he has done a lot of work for you, did you thank him? even though he put you down, its called tough love because people get frustrated when time and time again things arent followed. What is the other forum you are going to? its quite tough to gather up a collective of people willing to help you whether you think they are helpful or not. My point on schooling was only the brain washed view that everyone should go to university, thats why there is such a huge gap in the trades uptake and skilled labor, god forbid you get dirt under your fingernails for high 5 digit income from the get go vs a paper cut pushing paper in a cubicle. People getting into huge debt yet working at starbucks is not a positive career move. The guy stuffing childrens food down his throat is a big problem today.

So you see what I did there? I really do hope you did see what I did there. I pounded out some on topic shit and tried hard to keep the off topic shit short and sweet without any long story about my day or how I feel, but hey I could do that and keep it very short. I woke up at 9:30am, now charging me ebike up to go out and ride. I use hobbyking silicone wire because its flexible and it has many thin strands to make up the wire, I cant remember what doctorbass said in the video but it makes the cross sectional area of the conductive material larger compared to a wire with few large strands that you might find at the home depot wire rack you can buy by the foot. That silicone wire is also very easy to bend and not deform or lose current capabilities, like solid core wire can break inside. Locally I can buy the same silicone wire with lots of thin strands but its 2 times the cost. Temperature rating would be more important for an application such as phase wires inside the motor for hub motors. I see with hobbyking it says Specs: Diameter: 24AWG Length: 1m Temperature Rating: 200°C Diameter: 10AWG Length: 1m Temperature Rating: 200°C

https://www.anixter.com/en_us/resources ... tings.html
https://iaeimagazine.org/features/wire- ... minations/

This is the temperature rating that most cable users think of first. It is usually defined as the maximum continuous temperature that the wire can withstand during its lifetime. It is generally limited by the thermal aging characteristics of the polymers, i.e., the plastics used to insulate and/ or jacket the wire. The metallic components of the wire seldom limit the temperature rating except in high-temperature wire where oxidation of the metal begins to become a significant factor at approximately 250° C.

For a new person starting out, tom is right building batteries isnt all its cracked up to be.
Its well worth it to buy a quality battery, well well well well worth it.

If DA. wants to he can post a graph on the measured performance vs. theoretical (what it should be for maximum efficiency) of the e bike and EVERY e bike I own. That way I can make improvements / upgrades as needed. That is all I ever wanted. To build and test e bikes first and worry about how they look later.

My 10 gauge wiring is rated at 30 amps continuous which = 53V * 30A = 1,590W (RMS) continuous.
However some wise ass will tell me I need to take the whole thing apart and upgrade to 8 gauge. The insulation on my 10 gauge Cerrowire is rated at 221 degrees F. Sure it can handle bursts of > 40 amps for < 30 seconds but nobody else thinks so.

I was also thinking for my 3,000W brushless motor that it could be possible to run it with 10 gauge wire as 70V * 30 amps = 2,100W (RMS) continuous. That should enable 30 to 35 mph cruising. When > 40 mph is desired It should only pull 40 amps or more for < 30 seconds which should NOT be enough time to heat up the wire even close to 221 degrees F.

Outside (ambient) temperature also plays a major role in heat so may want to try > 40 mph on a cool day instead of a really hot day. that rule of thumb also pertains to the motors and controllers , not just wiring.

Of course nobody on this forum will agree with any of what I just said. I am stupid and have learned NOTHING in 8 years.


"by Ianhill"

Yea. That was entertaining.

You may want to stay on topic so you don't get banned. Is why I started the other post that got deleted. I am not posting much anymore as sick of being ridiculed.

No matter what I build it will get picked apart here so am seeking out other e bike forums which I will post a link to in case there are a few members who can follow my thread without negative comments.

The name of my new post will be " As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns" Somebody came up with that many years ago and I just like it.

If I could I would start my own e bike forum like Marty said he was going to do but starting a website is above my computer skill level. I would need some help. DA. could help me but will he ? He also seems to think I am NOT capable of learning anything or doing anything right.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[tomjasz]

My main interest is performance. NOT looks.

How do you get F’d up batteries to perform? Where is ONE high performance build? It’s not the look of the boxes as much as the sloppy build quality and cobbled cell connections. My 2014 BBS01 350W and 6 year old battery will outperform everything you’ve posted and will get better mileage. Come on. Show the thread you can GTFU and actually read and follow directions. DA has carried you for YEARS!

[calab]

Gtfu means Grow The frock Up copied from internet slang website.
The batteries don't seem to take him far so he must of lost half the capacity due to damage and the resistances adding up (solder joint resistance, internal resistance, interconnect wire resistances) I remember when I had a really shitty battery that did not get me far, it was a real pain in the ass and it was not fun at all because I would always have to recharge the battery for an hour which was a total waste of time. Total distance for me was 15-20km which is half to 1/3 the distance I normally ride. When its cold out I got much less total distance ridden, with bad and weak batteries the cold makes it even worse, less off the line punch and way less total distance traveled.

[latecurtis]

My 2014 BBS01 350W and 6 year old battery will outperform everything you’ve posted and will get better mileage.

Come on. Show the thread you can GTFU and actually read and follow directions. DA has carried you for YEARS!

The batteries don't seem to take him far so he must of lost half the capacity due to damage and the resistances adding up (solder joint resistance, internal resistance, interconnect wire resistances)

First of all the 12S to 15S - LIFEPO4 packs do work. They just are limited to 10 miles or so. I can recharge them to about 97% in 20 minutes flat from 25%. You can not do that with 18650 - lion. Perhaps Lion has greater energy density (range) and less SAG for better performance but the way I see it it is a trade off. They do 20 mph at 12S and 25 mph at 15S.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7t_g7naAiuQ&t=226s

Here is the video that nobody probably bothered to watch. The e bike is > 40 pounds with both motors on the scale. + 18 pounds for 12S - LIFEPO4. Yea I had a conversation with the guy downstairs. I told him to buy a hub motor kit. I figured that was good advice. It is what most of you would tell someone new to e bikes.

It is the last time I rode and if any of you can take the time to watch the entire video you would know I am not some A hole as I can carry on an intelligent conversation and my social behaver is acceptable. You will also see that the LIFEPO4 packs I built are not complete junk. They will probably last many years.

I am happy with 10 miles and mediocre performance here in the city. Factor in potholes and traffic and the fact that there is a federal speed limit of 20 mph and 750W my 26" Diamondback Outlook with dual 350W Bafangs is ideal , very reliable and 100% street legal. It is a VERY GOOD BUILD. NOT junk or something I cobbled together like DA. said and so many ES members on this post keep saying.

Of course I want some of my e bikes to go faster and be higher performance. That is why I have LTOs. However Tomjasz has 350W 18650 Lion packs that will out perform $600 - 20S - LTOs.

OK. If you say so. I really do not feel like arguing about that. It seems everyone has an opinion. Has anyone here that posts ever rode any of my e bikes. That would be NO. In my opinion you can not judge a horse until you have rode it. You just do not have enough information. I have real life issues I need to deal with. I do not feel like wasting my time and energy having to constantly stick up for myself here on this post. When the weather improves I will try out the LTOs , then I will go from there.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[Ianhill]

Theres telling a guy to get help and settle himself if he can and then theres belittling them, if some can puff up their feathers by picking on someone thats down then shows the type of person to begin with.

Loss of patience walk away dont call his work out it just makes things worse, curtis honest stop building for five clear your mind and learn a new approach dont let this thread dictate who you are and no one is a loser till they accept they are, shrug yourself off and focus.

[calab]

How many ah and wh is your

12s lifepo4 battery that gets you 10 miles?

15s lifepo4 battery that gets you 10 miles?

Whats your voltage of the LTO Lishen 2.3v nominal 18ah ?

[latecurtis]

FullSizeRender_clipped_rev_1copy_a1abf097-5f18-4d66-9cfb-36965f592a84_1024x1024@2x.png (3.09 MiB) Viewed 283 times

[latecurtis]

I built two 6S - 5P - packs for 12S and a 3S - 5P for 15S. 19 Ah is total capacity (advertised) I am guessing about 1/2 of that.

I have a 10 amp 43.6V - LIFEPO4 charger for 12S - and a 54.6V - 15 amp Lion charger I use for 15S - LIFE and 20S - LTO.

Rocky1198
New member
Joined May 31, 2021
Last seen Friday at 9:41 PM

Can you post a link to the actual cells you bought?

Did you do an actual capacity test on any of those cells?
I personally never had good luck with Tenergy.
That seems like excessive sag.

That said, the nominal voltage on LiFePo4 is 3.2v
Full charge is 3.6v so for your 36v battery you need 12S to get the same as your higher voltage LiIo.

Which you did.

Do a capacity test. I'd bet your cells are significantly less capacity than advertised.
Test ONE cell under the max load rated and see what you get. If they can even handle the rated load.
Also, if you didn't test each cell, how do you know you don't have a bad one (or two) ?

My gut feeling here is the cells are not up to par./quote]

https://ebikesforum.com

Yea. I mixed it up and told him it was Ternergy. It is K2 energy. The point is he came to the same conclusion as me that the cells are not as advertised. I searched youtube and did not see any capacity tests on those cells. DA. said to do a test but I see no sense as I cant not change anything.

If the cells are not up to par from the start I cant magically give them more capacity by waving a magic wand. Or if I did damage them soldering I can not go back in time and do it over so I choose just to run them. They charge up in about 15 to 20 minutes and go about 10 miles. I might be able to squeeze 15 miles but don't want to push my luck.

I am hoping the 20S - LTOs are good for 20 miles. Also I plan on buying the prismatic cells with the proper bus bars and nuts.



I have learned my lesson trying to build battery packs. I will never solder batteries ever again. Also I am done with cylinder type batteries. The prismatic cells will stack vertically and can build a much smaller box and can easily assemble it. It will be used exclusively for professional , clean builds. I will also be using silicone wire exclusively for every and all new builds.

Regardless to what Tomajsz seems to think I have GTFU. I have learned from my mistakes and will be building The Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt motor as well as the Giant Roam with the dual e bikeling motors and am contemplating building the 20" Diamondback Viper with a fat tire in the rear and low profile chrome chopper forks in the front.

Right now though I need to save my money and move so will be attempting to upgrade and improve the performance of the e bikes I already built. The Currie needs that 40 amp 36V controller for the rear chain drive and the Dual suspension needs the 750W gear reduction motor on the front which will run 20S - LTOs with the 1,000W direct drive in the rear.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[Chalo]

Those are rated to charge at 3.8A and discharge at 12A.

[calab]

Funny you never answered my question as to what size in amp-hour (ah) your batteries are
12S lifepo4 are 3.2v nominal.
15S lifepo4
LTO is figured out its 20s, at a minimum the LTO is 18ah and you stated the lto's are 20s at 2.3v is 46v nominal. Listen LTO's are the ones curtis bought, they are the 18ah you can find the specs at the osnpower website, but curtis could have been defrauded and what he really has is counterfeit or Z-grade if not damaged by some other method

I tried looking again but you never mentioned it at all, ever.

At 10 miles you have 3.5ah for the lifepo4 or 170wh so if your batteries for lp4 are 10ah you lost 75% capacity which is really really bad and really really unsafe. If your batteries are suppose to be 15ah or 20ah, then its even worse. I hope your van doesnt mean much to you if its not insured for complete loss it should be quite the fireworks display with the added solar panels and lead acid batteries lets hope there is no damage to buildings or other vehicles.

Curtis never did do a capacity test which he was told to do but he does not know how to do it which he was told how to do it. Even if its 0.01c discharge test it will give him a good ball park to ramp up to 0.1c and 1c which is harder to do without melting the toasters heating element, but a stove element would work.

There could be a bad cell, this is why you test them but curtis does not know how to do it. I would mail him some stove elements if I find any because I need to find a nema cord off an appliance and I could send them off to canton ohio.

[latecurtis]

It shows in the picture. 3.8 Ah.

3.8 * 5 = 19 Ah for the LIFEPO4 cells.

I have not even run the LTOs yet. They are rated at 18 Ah. I doubt they are fake. I think the LIFEPO4s are old cells that sat around awhile but still brand new. Never run. I just do not think they are 3,8 Ah.

I got both the LIFEPO4s and the LTOs at battery hookup.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[calab]

I still do not see anything. So you have 12S 5P lifepo4 19ah battery so that means you lost 82% capacity, so its on its last legs

You can only use 3 to 3.5ah of your battery that should be able to use 19ah
very dangerous indeed

lifepo4 from batteryhookup 12S 5P 38.4v 19ah and you can only ride 10 miles which is 170wh but you should have 730wh which should get you 42 miles, not 10 miles.

lifepo4 from batteryhookup 15S 5P is 48v 19ah and you can only ride 10 miles which is 170wh ................ 912wh which should get you 53 miles not 10 miles. So we can assume the 15S battery pack is more damaged then the 12S if you get 10 miles from both.

lto from batteryhookup 20s 1P is 46v 18ah which you havent ridden yet

It shows in the picture. 3.8 Ah.

3.8 * 5 = 19 Ah.

I have not even run the LTOs yet.

I got both the LIFEPO4s and the LTOs at battery hookup.

[latecurtis]

I get 15S by running two 6S in series with 3S. All 5P.

Well I am not 100% sure what is going on. I would need to buy 5 more boxes and have someone professionally spot weld them and then compare them to the ones I built. Also like I said I might be able to push 15 miles out of them maybe. I just know I go to Wall-Mart which is about 5 - 1/2 miles. They are 97% charged before I leave and around 25% when I get back.

Half the cells I soldered with the Weller 100 watt iron and the other with a 60 watt iron and heated the cells up excessively.

They do hold a voltage though when fully charged. There is not a lot of self discharge. Just a couple cell banks discharge to around 79 or 82% after a week or so and all the rest are at 96 to 97%.

My guess as well as the guy on the other forum is they are not as advertised. Even though Battery Hookup is reputable it is possible they got a bad batch. I think they are new and undamaged but no where near the capacity they are rated at.

I have active equalizer balancers hooked up which is a band aid like DA. said. The LTOs are perfect though. NO SOLDER. Also when I build the prismatic cells it will be NO SOLDER.

I just tested the 12S LIFEPO4 and voltage is 42.7V which is 3.558V per cell. The 3S is 10.1V so 3.36V per cell so there is some self discharge. It was about two weeks since I run the 12S and 5 or 6 weeks since running the 3S.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[calab]

Yes, yes you could push 15 miles out of them and you could also push 30 miles out of them, all depends on how much you pedal.
Please do not bother buying the same shit. Buy your bolted down battery packs and be 100% sure you get the fasteners that go along with them from the same seller. Osnpower has those lto listen 2.3v 18ah cells and I know they would sell the fasteners to go along with it but please please please dont bother, just do not bother

JUST BUY A READY MADE BATTERY FROM EBIKES.CA, EM3EV.COM, LUNACYCLE, UNITPACKPOWER

Its literally a waste of time and money to continue doing what you are doing.
$650 - 36V 16.5 Ah Downtube Battery with Samsung 35E Cells, Low Profile Reention Casing with on/off Switch
They go on sale once a year and you can save $100, this is what credit cards are for curtis if your so lucky to get one. I know some people cant get a normal credit card. Capitol One will give you one, they are the easiest.
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle ... im-dt.html

Well I am not 100% sure what is going on. I would need to buy 4 more boxes and have someone professionally spot weld them and then compare them to the ones I built. Also like I said I might be able to push 15 miles out of them maybe. I just know I go to Wall-Mart which is about 5 - 1/2 miles. They are 97% charged before I leave and around 25% when I get back.

Half the cells I soldered with the Weller 100 watt iron and the other with a 60 watt iron and heated the cells up excessively.

They do hold a voltage though when fully charged. There is not a lot of self discharge. Just a couple cell banks discharge to around 79 or 82% after a week or so and all the rest are at 96 to 97%.

I have active equalizer balancers hooked up which is a band aid like DA. said. The LTOs are perfect though. NO SOLDER. Also when I build the prismatic cells it will be NO SOLDER.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[latecurtis]

Well there are reviews on the prismatic cells. I have not watched them all yet. Right now Battery Hookup seems to be out of stock. Basically I will be running the LTOs. I also got three 22 Ah - SLAs which I have not run an e bike with yet. The LIFE packs for short trips.

Also I am not riding much and probably buying a 4 cylinder car this spring. One reason is there is a lot of rain/ snow and the roads are very dangerous riding e bikes. That plus people yelling out windows and heavy traffic. It just sucks riding an e bike around here.

I also severally damaged my right shoulder back in 2019 when I flipped an e bike as there was a foot deep drainage hole with tall grass all around it so I am only riding in perfect weather. I do not want to get hurt again. I do not want shoulder surgery.

I want to go 40+ mph but really should NOT. I should just stick to < 30 mph and only ride on good roads where there is minimal traffic. I am going to be 57 years old and have heart issues. Also diabetes so should be walking for exercise whenever I can.

I will wait for the prismatic cells to go on sale some time in the future a few months from now if I do order them.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[calab]

Well if it burns you once, twice, three and four times why not go for five times the charm. Do you eat Lucky Charms Cereal?

Are you going to use blue loctite on the new prismatic cells?

I really hope you dont buy from batteryhookup again. Its like a girlfriend going back to an abusive boyfriend, thats all she knows.

Well there are reviews on the prismatic cells. Right now Battery Hookup seems to be out of stock. Basically I will be running the LTOs. I also got three 22 Ah - SLAs which I have not run an e bike with yet. The LIFE packs for short trips.

Also I am not riding much and probably buying a 4 cylinder car this spring. One reason is there is a lot of rain/ snow and the roads are very dangerous riding e bikes. That plus people yelling out windows and heavy traffic. It just sucks riding an e bike around here.

I also severally damaged my right shoulder back in 2019 when I flipped an e bike as there was a foot deep drainage hole with tall grass all around it so I am only riding in perfect weather. I do not want to get hurt again. I do not want shoulder surgery.

I will wait for the prismatic cells to go on sale some time in the future a few months from now if I do order them.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[latecurtis]

Are you going to use blue loctite on the new prismatic cells?

I really hope you don't buy from batteryhookup again. Its like a girlfriend going back to an abusive boyfriend, that's all she knows.

Well I think DA. recommends Battery Hookup. Not sure. I know the 13S power modules came from there he recommended. It could just be a fluke. A bad batch. I can still get my moneys worth for short trips as 90% of the riding I do is < 10 miles round trip.

It is possible I damaged the LIFE packs or built them wrong. Or could be a combination of all of it. All I know is I will not buy any more cells that need solder or spot weld. Also prismatic cells take up less space and are more compact.

Also the capacity testing is going to happen. I bought the SLAs to compare the LIFEPO4 packs I built to. I plan on running them separately and bought a new power meter with a shunt. I will record data with a mini pocket camera and run a GPS speedometer with my sunglass camera.

I will be building a compact battery box for the three 22Ah SLAs which will go on the bottom bar for lower center of gravity and run the 12S - LIFE I built in parallel for 20 miles total and will also record and compare data. Later on if I build the 12S prismatic cells I can lose the SLAs and run all the LIFEPO4 in parallel for 20 or 25 miles. The prismatic cells are rated at 25 Ah but need to watch the reviews.

We will see what happens. My goal is to have fun. Not turn it all into a big stressful situation like some members here seem to like to do. Life is stressful enough. Building and riding e bikes is supposed to be therapeutic. A stress reliever. Arguing with certain members and blaming Battery Hookup for selling me bad batteries is counter productive.

I just want to build , ride and test.

Just waiting on all the snow to melt.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[kuz]

...It doesn't seem like you're having fun based on all the complaints and drama.

Quite the contrary. It just takes a bit of an effort to see it:

...I like talking to intelligent people. Most everyone here has a good brain and is educated. I can not change the fact I have a gangster mentality. I spent two years in NY state prison in 91 and 92. I am a bad boy for life. However I went to the community college before I did my state bid and after I got out.

My mother told me my IQ is 160 but think she mixed it up. My guess is 116. You know how mothers are.

...

...In reality I am just an average guy. Just like the guy next door you might sit down and have a beer with during a summer barbeque. I mean nobody any harm. Yes I was an asshole in my younger days and I like talking a lot of shit because I like the way it sounds. sometimes I will hit a nerve.

This world is a frocked up place. I am only tying to fit in...

I can certainly relate to it.

Like his occasional self deprecating humor. "Curtis is the middle name, and I've been late most of my life." Aren't we all.

I would not have been doing what LC is doing EXACTLY the way he is doing it, or even close. But so what? I still come to this thread when I have a minute.

Don't despair, LC. Keep the lid on though.