new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

Would work just fine! 18,000W continuous.

12V @ 100A 1200W, alternatively, would cook and "burn".

600V rating is more an insulation factor. (electrical arcing resistance)

When I hook up the 70 amp 3,000W controller I might just go with 8 gauge or 6 gauge wire.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[DrkAngel]

That is very difficult to grasp however I don't have a masters degree in electrical engineering. You do.

I have no "masters degree in electrical engineering" ... merely an understanding of some basic electric principles!
'Tis obvious that your irrational fear of electricity is based on your lack of basic electrical knowledge.
People tend to fear what they do not understand!

[latecurtis]

.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DhzWPoSYoQ&t=73s

Did you watch that video ?????

12V @ 100A 1200W, alternatively, would cook and "burn".

10 gauge did hold up but probably would fail if the test was longer.

That is where I got 30 to 40 amps continuous and 50 amps peak. Like the 1,500 watt rating on 16 gauge wire I only go 1/2 of that for real applications. I double up for 500 to 1,000W.

I like youtube videos as it gives me an idea of what I should do. I like being more conservative though so try to double what the test is or in the case of 100 amps with 10 gauge wire < 50 amps so think I am doing it right.

8 gauge wire is only rated for 40 amps and 6 gauge is for 55 amps. I might go with 6 gauge then for the 3,000W 70 amp controller.
Those ratings are very conservative.

10 gauge = 30 amps

8 gauge = 40 amps

6 gauge = 55 amps.

That is continuous or > 30 minutes. Peak power is < 30 seconds. Therefore the 10 gauge wire I am using is perfect for up to 40 amp controllers. I also checked the temperature rating and is 105 degrees Celsius which is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. That is hot.

For an e bike 70 amp controller continuous would be 40 to 45 amps. 70 amps would be the peak maximum for < 30 seconds so 6 gauge should work with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor with the 13S power modules in series with 4S - LiPo.

Not sure what gauge the power wires are for 4S - LiPo. Probably either 8 or 6 gauge ????

Thanks.

LC. out.

[calab]

That is an excellent video by doctorbass I remember it and those high strand count silicone wires are pretty amazing, I would buy 8' each of red and black from hobbyking along with some xt90's but the shipping cost is crazy. A general guideline for wire ampacity is https://www.cerrowire.com/products/reso ... ty-charts/
silicone wire https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... -amp-chart

silicone wire.jpeg (126.63 KiB) Viewed 432 times

[Blacklite]

Would work just fine! 18,000W continuous.

12V @ 100A 1200W, alternatively, would cook and "burn".

600V rating is more an insulation factor. (electrical arcing resistance)

That is very difficult to grasp however I don't have a masters degree in electrical engineering. You do.

All I know is I plan on running 30 to 40 amps thru it at around 50V. It should be fine for that.

When I hook up the 70 amp 3,000W controller I will be using two pieces of that 10 gauge wire instead of one or I might just go with 8 gauge or 6 gauge.

Thanks.

LC. out.

The mistake you’re making is looking at the total power dissipation in the circuit as some sort of measure for the wire. You need to be looking at the power dissipated in the wire itself. Think of the wire as a resistor forming a voltage divider with the actual load.

To work it out -

Power dissipated in the wire = voltage across the wire * current through the wire. (P = V * I)

Voltage across the wire can be calculated with Ohm’s Law - V = I * R where R is the resistance of that particular piece of wire.

Combining these two you get

P = I^2 * R

So the power dissipated in the wire is proportional to the square of the current through it, and the resistance of the wire (which involves the type of conductive material, length of wire, cross sectional area of wire).

Notice how there is no voltage in the equation? The wire doesn’t care if it’s got 6 million volts on one end in terms of its power dissipation. It’s insulation resistance and ability to not arc of course is another thing, which is where the voltage rating comes in.

And some light reading that will might help you understand. Not really even first year undergrad level, let alone masters.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirchho ... rcuit_laws

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

[nicobie]

Sigh...

MONTHLY WARNING/DISCLAIMER!

Do not follow any advise latecurtis posts.

[latecurtis]

Do not follow any advise latecurtis posts.

I really do not get why ?

I am using wire rated at 30 amps and 221 degrees for controllers < 40 amps.

I plan on using 8 or 6 gauge wire for my 3 kilowatt controller which is 70 amps.

thanks.

LC. out.

[calab]

Dropping solder to make an electrical connection

Using 2 smaller wires instead of one bigger wire is not such a big problem as solder droplets.

Buying big and heavy lifepo4 and lto's

Mounting batteries high up with wooden cases

Chain drives is not such a big problem lots of people do that some even do friction drive which is not such a big problem

Can anyone else add to the list?

[latecurtis]

OK.

sounds like a hassle.

[calab]

Why do you need the approval of online strangers to figure out if you are going to continue posting or not, you are always up and down like you have bipolar. I just think it would be nice if you knew what the errors in your ways are but the sad thing is you will forget so just down your beers smoke your herbs that will make you forget what just happened. Come back and keep on posting. I just cant remember the long list of mis steps and errors you did.

OK.

I guess I should just stop posting.

Everyone is gaining up on me.

No thanks.

LC. out.

[DrkAngel]

AP.jpg (9.4 KiB) Viewed 395 times

Trouble is, maybe, you just never get "sober".

[Blacklite]

OK.

I guess I should just stop posting.

Everyone is gaining up on me.

No thanks.

LC. out.

Did you not find my post earlier showing the derivation of working out power dissipation in a wire instructive? How is posting basic electrical engineering principles “gaining up on you”?

Surely it’s just knowledge you learnt at college, as you keep reminding everyone. Or wasn’t Ohm’s Law covered in your “electrical technology” course.

[latecurtis]

Yea.

Been awhile since college.

[latecurtis]

yea. Too cold to ride and too much snow.

LC. out.

[tomjasz]

Do not follow any advise latecurtis posts.

I really do not get why ?YOU HAVE YET TO POST OR PULL OFF A CONSISTENTLY WORKING EBIKE

I just don't get it. YES That's clear

I am beginning to think that some of the members here life's goal is to make me look like an idiot. YOU NEED NO HELP THERE

Thanks.

LC. out.

Another string of pie in the sky ideas. I'd be impressed if you actually stop posting these supercilious designs and builds. And actually built a safe and sane usable bike. FFS my 350W mid-drive from 2014 still runs like a champ. it's dragging my fat arse along at a solid 20mph for 40-50 miles with a well-made 10s5p battery. Good land man! All this bullcrap and you're mileage limited and chasing clouds. You've had brilliant posters advising but you still go crashing through buildings like a bull in a china shop.

Nicobe knows that lots of greenhorns cruise through. Deity protect them if they take most (any) of your posts as useful.

And stop the victim crap. Your choices, your decisions, and your faux pas. No one else.

[DrkAngel]

Well ...
When you make the seemingly ridiculous assertions that you have some training as an electrical technician and sport a 160 IQ ...
but then display a pitiful lack of understanding and fear of the most basic electrical functions or circuits ...

I would think you have primed yourself to be the recipient for well deserved disparagement and ridicule!








Better face it boy ... you ain't no friggin' Einstein!

The stunted intellectual-cognitive growth after these 7 years of personalized instruction and tutelage makes your 160 IQ claim ridiculously unbelievable, even your revised 116 IQ stretches the imagination ... unless you blame numerous head beatings combined with decades of pervasive drug and alcohol abuse for your present condition? Honestly, from what you present, most would more believe an IQ of 60.

Please stop labeling yourself as "genius" every time you half understand something new or find another half-assed way to cobble something together ... you are just begging for ridicule and scorn!

[tomjasz]

And so it began. It reads like the responses to the madness today. Unreal. Not listening from week 1 8 years ago?!?!?

EZips can use the:
MY1018Z 24V 450w or 36V 450w
or
XYD-16 24V 450w

You, apparently, had a My1018Z motor and overvolted it to 36V.
This would push the 450w 16mph peak output to 675w ~23mph.
Unfortunately, going up a hill full throttle at say ... 10mph, damaging heat output might be triple.
(You later admit to a 2mph? prolonged uphill torture-destruction)
(When you "Put the front tire against a wall and held full throttle till battery was dead" ... might not have been good for motor, batteries either?)


If you want to run the 450w motor at 36V up hills you need to gear it lower.
You can swap the 20T freewheel for a 22Tor
Swap the 20T freewheel for a LHS freewheel and 27T sprocket - might need to extend mounting bracket for good clearance.
Both available from Staton-inc.com.

And please ... pedal assist on hills!
You can even burn up a motor at 24V on hills.

Some of my eZip specific threads

eZip - iZip Specific Threads

eZip Trailz Commuter - 2014½
EZip Trailz LS - 2013
Re-volting the eZips ... Simple Mods!
The New EZip "StepThrough"
Currie-EZip ebike Kit $289.88 - Amazon.com
eZip-iZip-Currie parts-n-such
13T Drive Sprocket - Currie, eZip, iZip
Re-gearing the eZips - Simple Mods!
EZip Trailz - On Sale!
Multi-Voltage Testbed - eZip
eZip-iZip Usable Controller Voltages
Should I lube my izip motor?
EZip - IZip 20mph Upgrade $20!
eZips - 15T drive sprocket
Currie-eZip-iZip Mods & Such - 5 Year Journey
Currie - IZip eBike Kit - Price Tracking
EZip Trailz - Continuous Price Tracking
Broken Spokes - EZip - Solutions!
14ga to 12ga Spoke Upgrade
EZip Basics ... Electric Bike or Electric Assist Bike
Currie MY1080Z 450w Motor - capabilities (EZip-IZip)
11T Mod - 20mph (25.9V)

[latecurtis]

viewtopic.php?t=20044

by LCNMRider » Sep 01 2010 2:30pm

I have been running the 24/900 watt motor on 37 volt lipos and a 60 amp controller. To date I have measured it to pull 77amps with a voltage drop to 35.7 volts on my son's OSET trials bike. This is significantly more power out than its stated 900 watts. I have a motor test data sheet on the 600 watt motor which lists a stall current at about 150 amps. Of course there is no efficiency at this output and the motor would not last long in that state.

If anyone has the motor test data on the 24v/900 watt or the 36v/1000 motor please let me know.

Rick

I have been very interested in that motor for a long time. If I were to get a 10S - LTO charger I would only be hauling around about 23 pounds of LTOs instead of about 46 pounds. From what I read the motor is pretty decent. A big step above the 450W Currie motor that came stock with my Currie. The motor DA likes.

Monster Motion 24 Volt 900 Watt XYD-13 Electric Motor with 11 Tooth #25 Chain Sprocket
Brand: Monster Motion
5.0 out of 5 stars 2 ratings
$149.99

c80-8757_3.jpg (13.21 KiB) Viewed 323 times

Can we just talk about 24V motors instead of my shortcomings. I know I am frocked up. You guys just like rubbing salt in the wound. I suck at math. I like math but not any good at it. I barley passed Algebra 2. Think I got a C in it. Don't remember. I could re learn it but would need a tutor and would really have to put effort in studying.

There are a lot of people out there 10 to 100 times more frocked up then me though. Most people have no clue how to build an e bike.

Two of those motors would be 1,800W @ 24V. One on the front and one on the back. 35 mph gearing. It would last much longer than the idea above by LCNMRider overvolting and over amping a single motor.

Just an idea.

I will also be building the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and running the 13S power modules in series with 4S - LiPo as soon as I move out of this shithole. Eventually I will be able to test the LTOs when the snow melts and I get my new motor sprocket.

That is what I have to look forwards to. I spent > $600 on those LTOs so plan on running them a lot this spring and summer. I will probably be building more e bikes as well and as long as the cyber cop don't ban me I can post them here. I also got a new power meter but is different than the one I got that DA. recommended. The new one has a shunt.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[nicobie]

I really don't know why I even bother to post here anymore.

Either do I.

I do not appreciate the blatant insults.

See above.

Easy to accomplish hiding behind a computer screen.

Is this a threat? 5 minutes on google will get you my address.

[latecurtis]

No.

LC. out.

[nicobie]

Is this a threat? 5 minutes on google will get you my address.

You want to intimidate people with your position. You all get your kicks picking on someone online.

You all need to get a life.

[latecurtis]

I am not threatening anybody.

[nicobie]

In the future I am going to require you to stay on topic or your post will be deleted.

This is an forum about electric bicycles. It is not about you, so can the personal crap. I am quickly getting tired of your behaviour.

[calab]

Lots of people are getting tired of his behaviour.

This is an forum about electric bicycles. It is not about you, so can the personal crap. I am quickly getting tired of your behaviour.

Curtis your new thread in the off topic section won't be as popular.

Whenever I see the pic of the huge ass gear on the rear wheel with the motor under the seat I just think its a meat grinder or tenderizer.
Looks like a very maneuverable ebike, very well balanced too
You are going to end up walking bow legged riding that "ebike"
And that controller is absolutely huge, is that a 24fet to run you 24v 500w motor?

latecurtis meat grinder.jpeg (39.83 KiB) Viewed 243 times

[DrkAngel]

A big step above the 450W Currie motor that came stock with my Currie. The motor DA likes.

The Currie 24V 450w motors, MY1018z etc., are the only direct replacements for your eZip, as requested in your "Re: new eZip motor" thread.
Great basic reliable motor that pushes nicely towards 700w with 36V.
Can be run from 1V ⋙ 50V+ with any brush controller, but limit amps above ~44V or will shear the sprocket key.
Best of all, uses 410 sprockets and chains, so does not require damaging and power robbing chain tightness, I have run daily for years with never any chain problem. Large selection of gearing options helps fit most any needs, motor sprockets\freewheels from 9-24+ and wheel sprockets\freewheels from 16-32+.
My current most used eZip, with Currie motor, is my Snow Beast™, pumped up to 36V 675W pushed through 9/22t sprockets, on studded tires for 20mph through slush, snow and ice.
36V 13.2Ah 3x Samsung "hoverboard" 18650 batteries, weigh about 6lb.