bike 1.0 - soliciting suggestions on wiring

renstyle

1 mW
Joined
Apr 5, 2016
Messages
18
Location
B.F. Iowa
bike 1.0 is nearly finished.

500W front hub, still using the stock kit rack (for now). Trying to get the wiring to look good, open to suggestions...

The controller seems to work well on the rack-as is. Went for a 3-4 mile test run today and it performed perfectly.

Wanted to know if anybody has tried to create a quick-disconnect on the front forks for the phase & hall sensor wires to make changing a flat tire easier? if so any pics you can share?

I'm tempted to hack off the stock wiring harnesses on the controller and replace with something more compact, but not sure if this is a good idea. I could tape over everything as-is, but would prefer something prettier. The phase wires are all connected with 14/16ga bullet connectors, which makes me wary.

I've already swapped out the stock power connector for a standard XT60. Have a 30A in-line fuse and spark arrestors planned for further up the line to the battery pack.

Thanks in advance!
 

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...just an obvious approach - Anderson PP + JST
Has worked without trouble for 12K miles in rain, snow, whatever...

That said, most flats fixed w/o removing the wheel - pop the bead, pull tube section out in-situ, patch, restuff, re-inflate, curse mightily...

01_22_iv250.jpg
 
One option for the 5-wire 5V hall sensor cable:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2767#p741496

rr-mcb-ext-xxg.jpg
 
Got over 8500 miles on my front hub motor....On the few occasions I had a front tire flat I just dropped the rim and left it connected. I pulled the tube from the non-wired side. No need to disconnect the wiring. In our setup just leave enough wiring to allow you the length to drop the front hub without disconnecting the wiring

Although, if you have a nice setup, please post it when you are done making it.

:D
 
I hate to state the obvious but what about the molded 9 pin barrel connector used by many of the hub motors?
a-pair-of-9pin-waterproof-male-female-connector-cable-for-motor-parts.jpg

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/....html?search_query=9Pin+Waterproof+&results=1

If you want something for the motor phase wries to match the XT-60 power connector:
51F%2Bn9nDQ2L.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRRPFGO

Here is yet another alternative for the other stuff (signal cables):
414GBrSfmwL._SX425_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HXR34NS

I needed something for the signal cables that would pass through 3/8 or 1/2 brass grommets so I used 4 pin audio connectors:
61VwcG7dWDL._SL1100_.jpg
 
Wrap up the plugs in some wide electric tape. You are worrying too much about looks. It will be fine.
 
You might want to reposition the wires coming out of the axle so that they exit the side 'slot', and not out the end where they can get pinched by the end of the axle if your bike falls over. Also, you'll want to make a 'drip loop' to encourage water to drip down instead of feeding into the axle.

images
 
BTW, I didn't see any torque arms on your forks. Waaaaay more important then a disconnect wiring harness.

:D
 
I think you need a small plastic box beside your controller for all them plugs to hide inside.
If your a bit more skilled, you can pop the pins out the plugs with a pin, and slip some shrink tube over the wires. No need to shrink it. It will look better without taking on the contours of what's inside.
The main cables along the top tube can go through a tube to keep them straight, and such a tube would only require a couple of fixings.
Group individual cables in groups and sleeve them together.
Use spiral wrap not only round the cable but round the bike tube your following. Like the bike tube got fatter not had something pinned to it.
 
e-beach said:
BTW, I didn't see any torque arms on your forks. Waaaaay more important then a disconnect wiring harness.

:D

There is a single torque arm on the opposite side of the front wheel. It's pretty beefy, even for a 500W motor.
 
My solution for access to work on the front wheel was to use longer wire routing, held in place with Velcro wraps. It's quick and easy to release enough wire to allow the the wheel to be set down on the ground, next to the bike:

q6g3.jpg


At the controller end, I shortened all of the wires to avoid too much bulk, and covered everything with Velcro and neoprene wraps (used a wrist support wrap to keep things and away from the brakes:

QWRqDM.jpg
 
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