Where to do spotwelding?

eAdrian

100 mW
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
38
Hi

I just bought a sunko 709A and tried it in my house without any good results.
Almost every time I use it it blows the 16A fuse on the most powerful outlet I have in my house used for the owen.

In the instruction it says I need at least 20A.

So what are you guys doing to overcome this problem?
Should I start look for some garage where I can do my nightly spot welding, or should I invest taking electrician to upgrade one of my outlets in the house with the extra cost of having 20A provided to the house?
 
Have you tried lowering the settings on the 709A? I am also thinking about investing in a 709A, but it seems it requires 30A-60A rated outlet to operate. I might settle for the 788H. I am currently using a no-name brand spot welder. Its not the most powerful, but I get decent results by doubling up nickle strips to build 36v packs.

This is the one I use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-held-Spot-Welder-Machine-Welding-for-Mobile-phone-Battery-Pack-110V-/230919460933?hash=item35c3df5845:g:GSAAAOSwMmBVoxwV

Luckily my Kitchen/Dish washer outlet is 20A rated, so have not tripped any fuses yet.

Good luck.
 
You could go camping !
Rent a spot with a 50A RV hookup and make a weekend vacation out of it !

( only ½ kidding )
 
Do you actually have a fuse box? Most houses built since 50 years or more ago use circuit breakers. What gauge wire is on the 16A fuse? IIRC 20A requires 14awg by code here. Maybe you just need a 20A fuse. What country do you live in? Fill in you profile location.
 
wesnewell said:
Do you actually have a fuse box? Most houses built since 50 years or more ago use circuit breakers. What gauge wire is on the 16A fuse? IIRC 20A requires 14awg by code here. Maybe you just need a 20A fuse. What country do you live in? Fill in you profile location.

Providing 20 usable amps at the outlet would require a 25A breaker, and commensurate gauge wiring...

How about a clothes dryer outlet? Got one of those?
 
I tried lowest setting, but it goes every second time, sometimes three times in a row.

House if from 2012 - 16A connected to 2.5mm2 wires. Location sweden.
Having digital fuse, slow ones (C rate).
 
Hi

Yes, sweden is 230.
But getting 50A require upgrade and extra yearly cost due to the amps.
The whole house is on 3x25A.

Upgradering from 25 to 50 increases yearly utility cost of 900$ / year.
For that money I can a battery every year. :)

But isn't there some kind of device one can plug in before the welder that could compensate and accumulate some energy?
 
Parallel the 3 25A circuits for 75A. I'm assuming they all terminate at a larger amperage buss bar.
 
Ouch. I didn't realize Europe was that different. 240v, 200 amp service is the smallest I could get by municipal code in my weekend cabin. it only runs me $180 a year.

Another potability is to run a gas generator. My 6000w unit can supply 240v at 25a. It's common for welders to run a 6000 to 10,000 generator on their work truck as many homes and job sites don't have outlets that can support their equipment.

There really isn't anything you could add to the plug side of the welder to help, but you might be able to add some large capacitors to the DC side of the welder to help it function on your breakers.
 
Long way around but .....
There are 12 Volt DC to 120/220 volt AC inverters on the market that might handle your power requirements. I used have one that I used (along with a deep discharge marine battery) during Florida Hurricanes to keep the Refrigerator on line. Or perhaps a server sized UPS.

A small petrol power generator would probably be simpler.
 
LewTwo said:
Long way around but .....
There are 12 Volt DC to 120/220 volt AC inverters on the market that might handle your power requirements. I used have one that I used (along with a deep discharge marine battery) during Florida Hurricanes to keep the Refrigerator on line. Or perhaps a server sized UPS.


This sounds like a great idea, but are there any affordable UPS out there which can deliver so much power (30A-60A)? Most UPS seems to be rated by wattage. If I were to purchase a UPS which is rated for 1000 Watts at 110V, would that be equivalent to ~ 9A? (eg: 1000W / 110V = 9.09 A?)
 
I remember seeing someone on YT connect up to 2 outlet.
I was a bit confused at the time, seeing as the guy mentions the power has got to be in phase.
But I now learned it was just the input to the transformer.
I have no clue what the European electrical code states, but I can only assume they are a progressive country and adopted/copied Britains, or Germany or France. And it cant be all that different then North America, except for the power itself. You should google what the code states, I would bet a microwave outlet is on its own circuit, along with vac outlet. You could also try a panel outlet if you have one next to it. $900/yr is outrageous, I bet thats your panel upgrade tax. So whats coming in, is stated in amps. 100A service, 200A service etc.
 
sonnetg said:
This sounds like a great idea, but are there any affordable UPS out there which can deliver so much power (30A-60A)? Most UPS seems to be rated by wattage. If I were to purchase a UPS which is rated for 1000 Watts at 110V, would that be equivalent to ~ 9A? (eg: 1000W / 110V = 9.09 A?)
They are out there but they are NOT cheap. I used to buy them in 2000 to 2500 watt sizes (I still have a 1500). About the only chance at an affordable one is the used market. It may also have a separate battery pack that may be missing. Might try Ebay (I assume that there is a Swedish Ebay) ... also you do not want to pay for shipping one very far.
 
LewTwo said:
Long way around but .....
There are 12 Volt DC to 120/220 volt AC inverters on the market that might handle your power requirements. I used have one that I used (along with a deep discharge marine battery) during Florida Hurricanes to keep the Refrigerator on line. Or perhaps a server sized UPS.

A cheap 12v inverter won't drive a spot welder. They're a hellishly inductive load that looks for all the world like a short circuit when they hit.

I've got a $500, 2000W 48v inverter, and it grumbles and is generally unhappy with my 788+ (110v). It runs it, but I had to turn up the power significantly because the first cycle or two has some serious voltage sag, and I end up putting a lot more heat into my connections than I care to.

They're just hard to get to function on some houses.
 
I will try to investigate some garages that allow charging of electrical cars.
We have those garages in my office.
 
Somewhere in the Battery Thread, or , the For Sale Thread,
is
A thread by someone in one of the countries South of Austria,
that makes and sells a welder that uses a 12 volt deep cycle battery for the power .

It looks like that would be a better/cheaper solution than doing any electrical work on the house, or Governmental extra charge ( $ 900 ) for being able to use more amps.

Just over $ 100 U.S. for the spot welder, and around the same for a good deep cycle battery. and 12 volt charger to charge the deep cycle battery.
So around $ 200 compared to $ 900






eAdrian said:
Hi

I just bought a sunko 709A and tried it in my house without any good results.
Almost every time I use it it blows the 16A fuse on the most powerful outlet I have in my house used for the owen.

In the instruction it says I need at least 20A.

So what are you guys doing to overcome this problem?
Should I start look for some garage where I can do my nightly spot welding, or should I invest taking electrician to upgrade one of my outlets in the house with the extra cost of having 20A provided to the house?
 
I am in sundbyberg.

What is 380V inlet ?
 
A quick google search suggests the 3x25A configuration in Sweden is 3-phase, so definitely don't connect anything in parallel ;)

I'd assume your wall sockets/outlets are run from one leg of the 25A supply, which should be sufficient to power your welder. If the C-type MCB isn't working for you, I would try a D-type... Your electricity supply will be capable of much more than 25A, it's just the MCB that's stopping it.
 
230VAC in Sweden is single phase. Using multiple outlets to increase amperage will not cause a problem. 400/690VAC is 3 phase. You can verify thius by either calling the electric company or simply looking at the fuse/breaker panel wiring.
http://www.apiste-global.com/enc/technology_enc/detail/id=1268
 
I am not sure how to connect multiple outlets in secure way.
Will the 230V sunko709n spotwelder manage this voltage?
 
wesnewell said:
230VAC in Sweden is single phase. Using multiple outlets to increase amperage will not cause a problem. 400/690VAC is 3 phase. You can verify thius by either calling the electric company or simply looking at the fuse/breaker panel wiring.
http://www.apiste-global.com/enc/technology_enc/detail/id=1268

What comes from the wall socket it of course single phase, but the supply to the building is likely to be 3-phase. If you search for "3x25A domestic electricity supply" you will find several references to it being a 3-phase supply - which makes sense considering the 3x25A designation.

Connecting the welder to multiple wall sockets is unlikely to help unless the consumer unit is radially wired with each socket having its own MCB. Most likely a number of sockets share a single MCB, which is what is tripping when the welder powers up.
 
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
http://www.thecircuitdetective.com/basic_house_wiring.htm
 
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