Anyone used the 1500w ebay hub motor?

F

flat tire

100 kW
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Feb 25, 2014
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So I started with a ebay 1000W hub motor, it's still working fine, I put between 2 and 3KW thru it for brief periods of time with a lyen 12 fet and only issue I've had with the hub is a blown hall. I've pulled the lids a few times so we'll see how the bearings hold up. 19S5P 18650-25R controller set to 40 amps continuous phase current is near 100. Top speed on a fresh pack is 44 MPH, high 30s is more realistic once the pack discharges the first couple miles.

Now I'm looking on ebay and see a inexpensive 1500w direct drive hubmotor. Anyone used one and have comments? I'm especially interested in your top speed and pack type, and anyone who's used higher voltage like 30S I'd be very interested to hear from. Of course, any comments at all are welcome. Thinking about throwing one of these on the mountain bike. I take it on the trails and for most things there the 1000W has had very adequate torque for climbs with my light weight (130 lbs). For roads the 1000W has been a dream, I'm beating traffic even if it's just during rush hour!

Here's a link to the hub in question:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1500W-Threaded-Brushless-Gearless-Hub-Motor-Rear-Wheel-Electric-Bicycle-/172223877753?hash=item281957d279:g:0IAAAOSwdsFXS-EL

It looks like the Leaf motor but is it really the same?
 
Leafbikes 1500w motor is 7.18kg, with 35mm stator and thin laminations. Brags about 90% efficiency.

That Ebay 1500w motor is 7.2kg (basically the same). Doesn't look like it says anything about stator size or the laminations, or make efficiency claims (however specious), so who knows.
145 cm dropout width for 7 speed freewheel I think sounds comparable to leafbike one (meaning some dropout spreading will be necessary, esp. with a 7 speed freewheel).
Doesn't say anything about phase wire size, and who knows about bearings. I don't know enough to interpret that Magnet Body Size info. Also nothing about motor winding, though I guess it give rpm from which a braver soul might infer something.

It could be a comparable motor to the leafbikes, but I wouldn't know how to tell from that info. Maybe someone else will find a clue.
My guess (since they haven't bragged otherwise) is it's more like the 1000w motor you already have, just ~50% beefier (so more copper, etc.). It's reasonable to assume it can handle more power without overheating (and probably that you'll get more torque out of it?)

It claims 600 rpms max speed, which would be crazy fast on 26" tires if it actually delivers anywhere close to that.

----
Of course, if you're that satisfied with your current motor, I hardly see much reason to buy and install a new one (though I understand the urge!). I guess if you're planning on really upping the power like you're suggesting, such an acquisition might make sense.
 
The 600 rpm at 48V makes it a 12.5Kv rated motor which is a pretty fast wind. Should be fine for normal use but too fast of a wind for mountain climbing. It's probably the same motor as the leafbike 1500W or very similar. Looks like a good deal to me. I'd try it if I needed another motor. :)
 
I'm always looking for more speed...I need much better acceleration to compete with cars and a peak speed over 50MPh to really thread the needle in traffic. The bike can already overtake cars at lower speed but only if they accelerate slowly and momentum overtakes are risky with a normal top speed of only just under 40. The plan is to upgrade to 1.5KWh 30Q cell battery and get a more powerful controller after I fabricate a new swingarm for my sugar 4+. I feel like the 1KW motor is being pushed about hard as it can be at this voltage without having a big risk of cooking it. This motor isn't exactly a low speed winding but it has more than adequate torque for 99% of the MTB trails here in Houston (extremely flat). So I'm pretty optimistic the 1500 will be workable for that too.

Think I can hit 50+ in a tuck with one of these 1500w hubs and the above upgrades @ 20s voltage? Ideally I'd like to see 60 but I realize that's pushing it on something as draggy as a non streamlined MTB.
 
According to their stats, it should reach 46mph on 48v, however I guess that's unloaded. 72v (20s) might just get you 55mph or more on the road. The wind drag will be the big challenge but somewhere between 2 and 3kw (30-40a battery current) should suffice and there's absolutely no reason I can think of why the hub wouldn't work great @ 20s and >40a.
 
On 20s 40A you should see about 1000rpm unloaded speed. Depending on load.wind resistance, etc., I think you'll be doing good to 48 mph from it on level ground. No chance of much more than that imo unless you're going downhill or you're extremely light in a tuck. You'll need 650 rpm for 50 mph.
 
Good stuff...I think I'll order a Leafmotor 1500 since the price of the ebay hub is about the same once I lace a rim on.

Also, re. dropouts, I haven't had any problems with my aluminum dropouts at my power level BUT I've used decent frames (Raleigh M50 / Gary Fisher Sugar 4+) AND I've torqued the axle in rather snugly which I believe is the main factor. Still, I'm keen to fabricate a more resilient swingarm so I can really turn up the amps on this next motor.
 
To update this thread I purchased a Leafmotor, will give my thoughts after it arrives.
 
I bought this 1500 watt unbranded and pretty much stat-less eBay motor. Will tell u how it goes.

This has the leads coming inside the dropout. Pretty much the only reason I bought it instead of leaf.
 
With your light load that should be plenty of motor to get you to the performance you want, but due to the high wind load of the speed you want along with the desire for good acceleration in the mid range, I'd still suggest lacing it into a smaller wheel than a 26. If you can live with a 24" bicycle wheel or better as light a, 18" moto wheel and tire as you can find you'll see a significant performance increase over a 26", enough so that you'll hit a much higher % of no-load speed and it should get you well past 50mph as a top speed on 20s or 21s. Just be glad you don't have the load that makes a 20" or smaller tire needed like I have to run despite bigger motors.
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
This has the leads coming inside the dropout. Pretty much the only reason I bought it instead of leaf.
Click to expand...

I greatly prefer the wire harness coming out of the axle end. Sure you have to take steps to protect it, but you get none of the problems associated with fitting the wire harness between the bike frame and spinning parts of the motor especially the sharp edged brake disc.
 
I’m doing rim brake in rear but that makes sense. I’ll add one of these to hold the leads and run them under the chain stay.

https://takeahikeshop.com/products/race-face-chainstay-pad?variant=36853163726&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw4rf6BRAvEiwAn2Q76kX1S7L94IMkA_7YkjmoNJesXNpPUSh9Xc43ejBBtPIaStL9nUqerxoCQqkQAvD_BwE
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
This has the leads coming inside the dropout. Pretty much the only reason I bought it instead of leaf.
Click to expand...

Well, Leaf 1500W motors are like that too. But they have a good reputation that they earned.

39dcf9ea01.jpg
 
John in CR said:
Hummina Shadeeba said:
This has the leads coming inside the dropout. Pretty much the only reason I bought it instead of leaf.
Click to expand...

I greatly prefer the wire harness coming out of the axle end. Sure you have to take steps to protect it, but you get none of the problems associated with fitting the wire harness between the bike frame and spinning parts of the motor especially the sharp edged brake disc.
Click to expand...

You also have inherent limitations on wire gauge (not a problem for me because I’ll only use up to 40A, but almost certainly an issue for you with your all-fast-winding philosophy), and a weakened axle end that can’t withstand as much torque from a torque arm before it gets squashed out of shape.

I have two torque arms on my X5305, but only one on my Leaf front motor, because why bother with a torque arm on the weak side of the axle?
 
I thought i bought the motor you linked, but i got a different one...its 48v 1500w off ebay
s-l500.jpg
 
Balmorhea said:
John in CR said:
Hummina Shadeeba said:
This has the leads coming inside the dropout. Pretty much the only reason I bought it instead of leaf.
Click to expand...

I greatly prefer the wire harness coming out of the axle end. Sure you have to take steps to protect it, but you get none of the problems associated with fitting the wire harness between the bike frame and spinning parts of the motor especially the sharp edged brake disc.
Click to expand...

You also have inherent limitations on wire gauge (not a problem for me because I’ll only use up to 40A, but almost certainly an issue for you with your all-fast-winding philosophy), and a weakened axle end that can’t withstand as much torque from a torque arm before it gets squashed out of shape.

I have two torque arms on my X5305, but only one on my Leaf front motor, because why bother with a torque arm on the weak side of the axle?
Click to expand...

Definitely not an issue. Big motors have big axles to bring out bigger wires. My HubMonsters have a 25mm axle and the factory fit 6 8gauge and a pair of 6 conductor shielded cable, and I did an upgrade once using magnet wire to bring the equivalent of 6 gauge out for the phase wires. It's the same amount of axle material taken (though I think the channel type uses a bit more due to the non-round shape) for the same cable to fit through the bearing. I'm pretty sure the one on the right below is the weaker form. Sure some of the motors that use too small an axle for the job could be crushed in a torque arm, but those I use have plenty of meat on both sides of the wire hole.
Axle types.JPG

Bringing the harness out via channel type wire routing not only is problematic in most cases, but it wastes the most valuable piece of real estate on our ebikes...the space between the dropouts.
 
Balmorhea said:
Hummina Shadeeba said:
This has the leads coming inside the dropout. Pretty much the only reason I bought it instead of leaf.
Click to expand...

Well, Leaf 1500W motors are like that too. But they have a good reputation that they earned.

39dcf9ea01.jpg
Click to expand...

I got both. I think the reason I didn’t get the leaf before was the insane shipping cost being over the cost of the motor.
It’s faster at 600rpm at 48/52 volts, which is vague, but they do a better job of saying anything.
I’ll at least spin both and get the motor Km and see if the leaf is more efficient at producing torque

Leaf should get a distributor for USA and surely would sell a lot more as the cost would be at least 100$ less
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Balmorhea said:
Hummina Shadeeba said:
This has the leads coming inside the dropout. Pretty much the only reason I bought it instead of leaf.
Click to expand...

Well, Leaf 1500W motors are like that too. But they have a good reputation that they earned.

39dcf9ea01.jpg
Click to expand...

I got both. I think the reason I didn’t get the leaf before was the insane shipping cost being over the cost of the motor.
It’s faster at 600rpm at 48/52 volts, which is vague, but they do a better job of saying anything.
I’ll at least spin both and get the motor Km and see if the leaf is more efficient at producing torque

Leaf should get a distributor for USA and surely would sell a lot more as the cost would be at least 100$ less
Click to expand...

Agreed. Leafs shipping to the United Kingdom is as bad as the cost of the motor itself!
 
Personally I prefer an axle channel to a drilled axle, because it is protected better in a crash. Both are a design flaw anyway. The wiring should exit the motor through a bushing between the axle and the bearing.
 
https://imgur.com/a/ZnoHGvD

There’s a lot of really nice steel26” bmx bikes I never knew existed or when bmx started doing bigger bike unfortunately almost all use 14mm dropouts. I see no hubs for that except maybe grin.

This black frame is the rare 10mm dropouts with standard bmx 110mm spacing in back bent to fit the 135mm eBay info-less motor.
I only bent the frame using the nuts on the threaded rod. Push out one side 4 quarter turns then locking it and doing the same on other side back and forth. Measure with the string. This is a smaller 24” wheel.

Bending bmx frames for 135mm hubs seems no problem but need an adapter for the 14mm dropouts.

You can get a complete strong steel bmx bike for under 500$. a resource of steel bikes I never knew. But the geometry is so steep.
 
The Mighty Volt said:
Agreed. Leafs shipping to the United Kingdom is as bad as the cost of the motor itself!
Click to expand...

The listed cost of the motor isn't bad. It's probably a bargain.

I love free shipping, but everyone knows that shipping isn't free, so the cost is just embedded in the price. So " Shipping costs" in an ad can be used to market it. If shipping costs are embedded in the price, and the cost is subject to sales tax, then you would be better off with all the costs being attributed to shipping. So the psychological impact and the financial impact may not be consistent.

I'm not saying the shipping costs of a Leaf motor are reasonable; only saying that when buying stuff, just look at the fully loaded cost and determine if you're getting what you're willing to pay for. $400 isn't cheap, but you're getting higher quality than a typical 1500W hub motor, and it's still half the price of something like a BBSHD mid drive.
 
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