Frame for Gates Carbon Belt Drive and seat post battery?

APailthorp

10 mW
Joined
May 25, 2009
Messages
31
]This is a really nice custom frame:
English_Cycles_Wht_Electric_001_0011.jpg


I can't do custom at this point. I like that it has an openable rear dropout so a belt can be fitted, and that there is room to mount a battery behind the seat post. I don't like that it is build for Bosch not a standard bottom bracket that can take a Bafang mid drive.

Anyone know of a frame like the above? I have an eZee Forza, aluminum so can't be modified for Gates, but it is two of three also:
4961587_orig.jpg


TL;DR seeking frame with:
- Standard bottom bracket
- Extended Rear Wheel Stays / room behind the Seat Post
- Sliding openable gates compatible dropouts / cheap steel frame that can be retro fit
 
Sure and modifying an existing frame means I could install sliding dropouts to tension the belt at the same time.

I think about having that done to my Forza, but I don't think I could find a reputable frame builder who would modify an aluminum frame. The tempering characteristics of aluminum seem to preclude this as a recommended course. Dropouts take a lot of stress.
 
So replace the aluminum dropout on that side with a steel one, with tubes attached to it that fit over your stays.

The chainstay-side can be a single tube with a split in it that allows it to clamp down on the existing tube.

The seatstay-side can be a two piece tube, inboard half welded to the dropout, outboard half bolts onto it after the dropout unit's been slid onto the chainstay and rotated onto the seatstay from the inboard side, then clamped down over the stay tube.
 
Cuffing instead of welding to the existing frame? Similar thoughts have crossed my mind, but I'm really hoping it is possible to find a factory frame that is half eZee Forza, half Soma Wolvarine. Marin Fairfax SC6 DLX meets Yuba Boda Boda. I'm not in immediate need to solve this problem (the chain works) but would like to do a really clean build, like that English bike (that I can't afford to commision).
 
FWIW, it's not terribly hard to weld steel stuff up with a decent relatively cheap wirefeed welder, like the $200-300 one HarborFreight sells. I've even used their crappy <$100 units for a lot of stuff, though they are harder to work with as they don't have any settings other than wire feed speed.

You could chop up a few cheap steel yardsale or thriftstore finds (or even garbage frames thrown out on trash collection day or bent/broken ones tossed out at bike shops), and build the bike you actually want this way.

It might not be as perfect as a pro-built frame on a jig (whcih you can also build pretty cheap and easy if you need to), but it'd do the job.

I build my own out of various scrap, and junk bikes, and for the most part they do pretty well. As long as I choose my parts carefully (no built-in defects) and design it correctly (or copy something someone else already did that does that part of the job), then I don't have problems with the frames.

Anything that has broken on my stuff was severely overloaded for it's design, and badly designed for that kind of load, or just not made out of parts good enough to handle the stress. I'm really hard on stuff, and abuse the vehicles on a fairly regular basis hauling stuff most bicyclists would drive their car for. (or rent a u-haul!) ;)
 
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