Finding a cheap but goodish affordable ebike kit....

Jamessaki

10 W
Joined
Jun 28, 2017
Messages
97
Location
Howard lake MN USA
I got a 48v 20amp battery
Is there any cheap but goodish kits out there I need something easy to install n would prefer front wheel and if possible using my LCD screen if I can't oh well I guess
 
Take your pick. If your bike has front disc brakes, make sure the kit you get has mounts for the disc.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+1000w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+500w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
NOTE: if a front wheel pops out while riding, you're looking at possible serious injury, including death. So you better do it right.
 
wesnewell said:
Take your pick. If your bike has front disc brakes, make sure the kit you get has mounts for the disc.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+1000w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+500w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
NOTE: if a front wheel pops out while riding, you're looking at possible serious injury, including death. So you better do it right.


Yep, those are about the least expensive kits you can find.
 
wesnewell said:
Take your pick. If your bike has front disc brakes, make sure the kit you get has mounts for the disc.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+1000w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+500w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
NOTE: if a front wheel pops out while riding, you're looking at possible serious injury, including death. So you better do it right.

I'm buying 1.without disc brakes
 
Jamessaki said:
wesnewell said:
Take your pick. If your bike has front disc brakes, make sure the kit you get has mounts for the disc.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+1000w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+500w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
NOTE: if a front wheel pops out while riding, you're looking at possible serious injury, including death. So you better do it right.

I'm buying 1.without disc brakes

Do you have a " fast charger" for your lifepo4 battery ?
 
rumme said:
Jamessaki said:
wesnewell said:
Take your pick. If your bike has front disc brakes, make sure the kit you get has mounts for the disc.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+1000w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=48v+500w+front&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc&LH_FS=1
NOTE: if a front wheel pops out while riding, you're looking at possible serious injury, including death. So you better do it right.

I'm buying 1.without disc brakes

Do you have a " fast charger" for your lifepo4 battery ?

Not fast but it works

999zip999 said:
A lifepo4 20ah battery. What battery ? As a link. A123 or generic Chinese cells ? Or 100amp draw or 15 amp limit ?

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/281571516784

docw009 said:
Did you give up on your 1000W rear wheel kit? Or did you get that running so nice that you;re ready to build another ebike?

I gave up wires are toast motors gone I think a lot broke on bike and didn't realize it so I'm going at it again but simpler
 
I built a e-bike using a 1000w 48v kit from China several years ago. This is before a PAS (pedal assist systems) were put in so the older bikes was capable of about 30 MPH. The E-bay sellers now have to sell the 1000w systems using PAS, but they are still bare bones. Not to scare you off, but depending upon the type of bike you are converting you might have additional cost, like good street tires/inner tubes, head/tail lights, helmet, fuses, horn, etc. After 16,000 miles the bike is still running, e-bike conversions can put a strain on many parts of the bike of my bike had to be replaced during the years. I use Lipo batteries which allows to vary how many batteries I need to carry, sometimes only 10AH, other times 25AH. Best of Luck.
 
docw009 said:
Did you give up on your 1000W rear wheel kit?

He spun the axle by riding it wesnewell style (no torque arms), and horked up his Hall sensor leads.
 
Oh heck, Jamesaki. I saw the pic of your motor with the rear derailleur all wrapped around it and suspected the wire side was all twisted up too. Had hoped otherwise. Makes for a bad e-bike experience, but hey, it wasn't too much money. A bad battery buy is worse, and I've done that. Keep going. EBikes are still fun and can be good exercise.
 
Chalo said:
docw009 said:
Did you give up on your 1000W rear wheel kit?

He spun the axle by riding it wesnewell style (no torque arms), and horked up his Hall sensor leads.
As usual, you know nothing. He didn'tt do it riding it. he did while screwing with the wiring with the battery still connected and the wheel wasn't even on the bike at the time. I'm getting f*cking sick of insults. And if you would have actually taken the time to look at his photos, you would have seen he actually had a torque arm installed (when it was on the bike). Actually, since he also had 2 torque washers on it too, I guess, that's 3 torque arms in your benighted mind. And if I get banned for this response to your BS, it's worth it. Now give him your phone number so you can help him. If you got time tyo post crap like this, you should have time to actually help someone instead of wasting it posting crap that you know nothing about.
 
By the way, I'm not recommending that anyone else do this, but I've been running my 1000w YES rear hub kit with a Luna 52V, 10 a-h battery in an aluminum Tidal frame (admittedly thick dropouts) for two years with no torque arms. No regen of course, just check the bolts every three months and no problems.
 
I've got ~25K miles and over 6 years running an 88.8V battery pack on mine with a 40A controller using regen and never had a problem at spees up to 61.4 mph downhill. I do have steel dropouts and put jam nuts on the inside of the dropouts, and did use the torque washers. But wtf do I know, my IQ's only a little over 150, and I've never worked in a bike shop. Jet aircraft mech at 17. Lot's of things in the next 53 years. Telecom, designd computer hardware and software. I used to get bored easily. Still do. :)
 
wesnewell said:
Chalo said:
He spun the axle by riding it wesnewell style (no torque arms), and horked up his Hall sensor leads.
As usual, you know nothing. He didn'tt do it riding it. he did while screwing with the wiring with the battery still connected and the wheel wasn't even on the bike at the time.

OK then, he wasn't riding the bike, only running the bike. But if the wheel wasn't in the bike, how then did the dropouts get pried open, and the derailleur pulled out of its mounting? The motor was pretty clearly in the bike, without a torque arm or at least without one attached to the frame at that time.

I have seen you advise noobs that they don't need torque arms for rear hub motors in steel framed department store BSOs more times than I can remember. And here we have Jamessaki with a rear hub motor in a steel framed BSO, just having demonstrated clearly why this advice you dispense so frequently is bad.

Since you brought it up... we can all claim whatever IQ we like in the absence of verification, but I will say this: You sure don't write like someone of substantially above average intelligence. Maybe you should try harder.
 
You don't know the whole story about his attempted build, and you sure as heck don't know me. See some of his other post for photos. Eventually had the bike working fine. Before he pulled the wheel off the bike with the battery still connected. Only disconnecting the throttle and messing with the wiring is when the wheel spun and wrapped the motor wires. And i'm not going to waste my time with my life story. if you want to know a little about me listen to this podcast. Then you will know just a little.
http://ataripodcast.libsyn.com/antic-interview-212-wes-newell-newell-industries
 
If you are looking for a cheap hub motor kit, just get one that runs in the right speed and power range for your needs. There's not much to distinguish one kit from another at the low end. All the cheap kits (and most of the expensive ones) have bad quality wheel builds, but that's a problem you can deal with yourself if you're so inclined. I like to build wheels, so I would always prefer a bare motor over one built into a wheel.

But do use torque arms, closely fitted to the axle and security anchored. They'll keep you from having to get a third kit.
 
Chalo said:
If you are looking for a cheap hub motor kit, just get one that runs in the right speed and power range for your needs. There's not much to distinguish one kit from another at the low end. All the cheap kits (and most of the expensive ones) have bad quality wheel builds, but that's a problem you can deal with yourself if you're so inclined. I like to build wheels, so I would always prefer a bare motor over one built into a wheel.

But do use torque arms, closely fitted to the axle and security anchored. They'll keep you from having to get a third kit.

Evidently, I have had great luck buying these inexpensive motor kits laced into the rims....not 1 of them I have used , has had loose spokes, wobbly rims, etc. They have also
lasted a long while, with my 240 lb bodyweight. In fact, I think a lot of these overseas vendors have been using automatic spoking machines, which probably do a decent job of spoking/ truing up the wheels at the factory.
 
rumme said:
Chalo said:
All the cheap kits (and most of the expensive ones) have bad quality wheel builds, but that's a problem you can deal with yourself if you're so inclined.

Evidently, I have had great luck buying these inexpensive motor kits laced into the rims....not 1 of them I have used , has had loose spokes, wobbly rims, etc. They have also
lasted a long while, with my 240 lb bodyweight. In fact, I think a lot of these overseas vendors have been using automatic spoking machines, which probably do a decent job of spoking/ truing up the wheels at the factory.

Machine built wheels are better than truly terrible handbuilt wheels, but they're always inferior to carefully handbuilt wheels. Usually they haven't been properly stress relieved or tension balanced compared to a wheel built by an experienced human worker.

Maybe your wheels work well for you and the mileage you put on them, in which case you don't have a problem. But all else equal, hub motor wheels are less reliable than conventional bicycle wheels, cheap Chinese wheels are way more problematic than those built by a bike service professional, and wheels built with 12ga spokes exhibit a lot more failures and maintenance needs than wheels built with 14ga or thinner spokes. Usually, cheap hub motor kit wheels are all three of these things.
 
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