Hello All. I picked up one of these cheap Voilamart (ZCRiding) "1500W" to try building an ebike with. Apparently you can flip from 750W to 1500W through the display. The problem is the wiring. It uses waterproof connectors and the power wires are pretty small. I think 14AWG from the battery to the internal controller. The wires from my battery are 10AWG ,much more inline with the 35A internal controller it's supposed to have. But I'm suspecting something is off. I haven't split the hub yet but I was planning to beef up the power wires to at least 12AWG but there isn't a lot of room coming out of this hub. I haven't found much online about this particular model but I'm thinking 1500W with an internal controller is a bit overrated "As is". I went with a 52V battery because this seemed to be the upper limit of what this controller would do. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Voilamart 1500W Internal Controller and Amps
- Thread starter furcifer
- Start date
For anyone interested in these internal hub motors, the power wires running to the controller are 14AWG. They join to 13AWG silicone wires running into the controller and from the controller to the stator. Obviously this isn't ideal for pushing amps. The problem is the control cable on this style is 11 core; 2x-14AWG power wires and 9x-22AWG control wires.
8 of the control wires go into a 10-pin molex connector and into the controller. 1 is cut flush.
Upgrading the wiring is a problem if you want to keep the internal controller. I managed to fish 2-12AWG wires through the axle hole by stripping the control wire casing. Where to wires exit the hub is a problem because it makes it very tight and the edges are sharp.
8 of the control wires go into a 10-pin molex connector and into the controller. 1 is cut flush.
Upgrading the wiring is a problem if you want to keep the internal controller. I managed to fish 2-12AWG wires through the axle hole by stripping the control wire casing. Where to wires exit the hub is a problem because it makes it very tight and the edges are sharp.
MadRhino
100 GW
Hub motors with internal controller can’t be upgraded much unless you get the controller out of them. Then you will have only hall and phase wires in the axle, and air cooling for the controller. External controllers are cheap, worth it if you want to pull the best of your motor.
I have the 1000watt version. I changed the controller to 72v Grin Tech and used a Cycle Analyst display. Running 72v with no issues. 95% of my riding is 750watt and occasionally I will push 1500 or 2000 watts when going up hill. I can go up to 40mph with this setup but anything over 30mph is too fast for a bike. Have about 1100 miles with this setup with no issue with the cheap Violomart 1000 hub motor
cthetoy said:
Sounds great! Did you originally have the Hub with internal controller?
Im currently running 1500W rear hub with internal controller, 52V 20Ah 40A BMS battery and SW900 LCD that came with it. Very happy with the performance but would be good to know that an external controller could be interfaced and performance increased. Only done around 100miles so far but easily reaching 35-40mph for long periods with not much heat from hub. 24miles is the furthest ive done in one hit with 95% full throttle and had a 1bar drop on the battery meter (i need to get an inline voltmeter as im running the controller at 48v and guess the battery meter is determined by that?)
I nearly bought the same kit but changed my mind and went for the hub motor with external controller instead. I figured the controller was the most likely thing to fail and I could easily replace it if it did.
Having opened the external controller I would be a little concerned about pushing yours too hard. The high current tracks were supposed to have extra solder on them but in several places had very little. I added solder to these tracks before partially bridging the shunt, then added lots of heatsink paste where they had also skimped. I could be wrong but I suspect it is now much less likely to fail even though it goes so much better.
As for the throttle you caan change it for a full or half throttle one with voltmeter built in. You'll probably need to cut off the connectors but is easily enough done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9dBksb_K-U
Having opened the external controller I would be a little concerned about pushing yours too hard. The high current tracks were supposed to have extra solder on them but in several places had very little. I added solder to these tracks before partially bridging the shunt, then added lots of heatsink paste where they had also skimped. I could be wrong but I suspect it is now much less likely to fail even though it goes so much better.
As for the throttle you caan change it for a full or half throttle one with voltmeter built in. You'll probably need to cut off the connectors but is easily enough done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9dBksb_K-U
mfifield01
1 µW
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2020
- Messages
- 2
Any issues with the internal controller kit? I've been debating between one of these kits and a BBS02B.
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
hello folks im in manchester uk
i have a 1500watt voilamart rear hub kit bought recently with internal controller and sw900.
using a 13s 14 p battery pack
got error09 (controller error) . stripped hub down- cannot see anything obviously wrong except some of the connectors had
corrosion on them. cleaned the corrosion off with cotton swabs and wd40. still get error09.
the entire controller has been dipped in see-through waterproof silicon gel.
there are three hall effect connections and three phase wires
will probably get an external controller. gonna try and put pics up
i have a 1500watt voilamart rear hub kit bought recently with internal controller and sw900.
using a 13s 14 p battery pack
got error09 (controller error) . stripped hub down- cannot see anything obviously wrong except some of the connectors had
corrosion on them. cleaned the corrosion off with cotton swabs and wd40. still get error09.
the entire controller has been dipped in see-through waterproof silicon gel.
there are three hall effect connections and three phase wires
will probably get an external controller. gonna try and put pics up
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
dont fancy stripping out the waterproof silicon goo so
gonna get an external controller thats compatible with the sw900
if that all goes well i wont add to this thread.
if it goes wrong or if it gets interesting will let you all know.
as mentioned earlier in this thread - some of the wires are too thin so im goona use the
fattest phase wires that will fit through the axle hole.
the moral is still and always has been - chinese controllers are not the best
gonna get an external controller thats compatible with the sw900
if that all goes well i wont add to this thread.
if it goes wrong or if it gets interesting will let you all know.
as mentioned earlier in this thread - some of the wires are too thin so im goona use the
fattest phase wires that will fit through the axle hole.
the moral is still and always has been - chinese controllers are not the best
mfifield01
1 µW
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2020
- Messages
- 2
How long have been using it (curious about reliability)? What dropouts are on your bike? I've heard it won't fit a 135mm.
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
used it once its done 29kms
but have had it for ages because was building a massive battery pack
very frustrating i dugout the silicone a bit and the mosfets checkout fine and the hall efect power is good
at 5volts. im sure i could fix the controller given time
but ive read about silicone degunking chemicals and its just not worth the hassle
the original ebay seller has been helpful - its a big seller - but they want videos
of the problem.
at this point i want to cough up for a decent external controller and im in touch with a really helpful knowledable ebay seller who is fully uk based .
dont buy a kit with chinese in hub controller cough.
but have had it for ages because was building a massive battery pack
very frustrating i dugout the silicone a bit and the mosfets checkout fine and the hall efect power is good
at 5volts. im sure i could fix the controller given time
but ive read about silicone degunking chemicals and its just not worth the hassle
the original ebay seller has been helpful - its a big seller - but they want videos
of the problem.
at this point i want to cough up for a decent external controller and im in touch with a really helpful knowledable ebay seller who is fully uk based .
dont buy a kit with chinese in hub controller cough.
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
the interior distance between the rear forks is 15cm
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
dug away the silicone sealant with knife then immersed controller in white spirit for four hours
it definitely loosening up. especially where i hacked away.
will leave it for 24 hours. and report back.
it definitely loosening up. especially where i hacked away.
will leave it for 24 hours. and report back.
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
ok white spirit has been totally successful in breaking up the silicone
not sure how that is possible. maybe its not silicone?
pcb detached easily. gonna leave pcb soaking for another 24hours.
then will try some fault finding.
By the way im doing all this because there seems to be no uk stock of the sort of external controller i need.
china virus situation etc. so ive got nothing to lose in having a go.
the battery pack has 208 reclaimed 18650s in it . had to name it
because it took months. the idea is i cut all my hair off if the bike cannot do 100 miles in one charge.
"haircut100" and im obviously old because its a band reference from the 1980s.
or it could be "HighCapacity100" whatever.
not sure how that is possible. maybe its not silicone?
pcb detached easily. gonna leave pcb soaking for another 24hours.
then will try some fault finding.
By the way im doing all this because there seems to be no uk stock of the sort of external controller i need.
china virus situation etc. so ive got nothing to lose in having a go.
the battery pack has 208 reclaimed 18650s in it . had to name it
because it took months. the idea is i cut all my hair off if the bike cannot do 100 miles in one charge.
"haircut100" and im obviously old because its a band reference from the 1980s.
or it could be "HighCapacity100" whatever.
Attachments
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
shifting all the silicone stuff is a pain.
got 90% of it off. soaking the board again.
when it does swell up its like a tree root breaking tarmac
so far its pulled out one copper bus bar thingy and a large watt resistor thingy
got 90% of it off. soaking the board again.
when it does swell up its like a tree root breaking tarmac
so far its pulled out one copper bus bar thingy and a large watt resistor thingy
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
got all silicone off. resoldered the stuff that was loose ( a large resistor and copper busbar thingies)
now getting error 10.
so thats it . given up on internal controller.
ideally what i now want is a voilamart external controller that is a genuine 35amps
that is compatible with sw900. but there is literally no uk stock.
so second choice is external controller that can run any lcd screen.
best wishes to everyone
now getting error 10.
so thats it . given up on internal controller.
ideally what i now want is a voilamart external controller that is a genuine 35amps
that is compatible with sw900. but there is literally no uk stock.
so second choice is external controller that can run any lcd screen.
best wishes to everyone
markz
100 TW
Why do you want a screen at all?
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
i like the little lcd screens.
OK the world situation seems to be really bad and ebay uk is selling out of all inexpensive controllers.
(and dont wanna be stuck with just an 800 watt ebike)
so last week i bought a 1500watt external controller and lcd and brake and throttle kit.
it was £59 delivered but they aint that anymore!!! they have gorn up in price
and yes its probably not 1500watt and yes its probably crap - but with external one ive got a chance of fixing it
its taken me 6 hours to wire it all up. had to solder lots of joins
so yes succesfully gone to an external controller
its wasnt THAT hard to put three phase wires and 5 tiny hall waires down the axle shaft.
im gonna put miles on it then will return here with details / pics
my 800 watt ebike also has a crazy home built battery . . but thats for another thread
best wishes to everyone - and follow them government guidelines
OK the world situation seems to be really bad and ebay uk is selling out of all inexpensive controllers.
(and dont wanna be stuck with just an 800 watt ebike)
so last week i bought a 1500watt external controller and lcd and brake and throttle kit.
it was £59 delivered but they aint that anymore!!! they have gorn up in price
and yes its probably not 1500watt and yes its probably crap - but with external one ive got a chance of fixing it
its taken me 6 hours to wire it all up. had to solder lots of joins
so yes succesfully gone to an external controller
its wasnt THAT hard to put three phase wires and 5 tiny hall waires down the axle shaft.
im gonna put miles on it then will return here with details / pics
my 800 watt ebike also has a crazy home built battery . . but thats for another thread
best wishes to everyone - and follow them government guidelines
I dont understand what you’re trying to accomplish. Seems to me that leaving the original wiring the way it was would yield better reliability than molesting the thing so thoroughly. Phase wires don’t have to be thick if they’re short. What do you think the wire gauge of the PCB traces is, or the FET legs? They are thin, but they’re also short.
I say, go ahead and fuss over your plugs and your long cable runs. Those things can make a measurable difference, and it doesn’t hurt anything to upgrade them. But through-the-axle wiring? Mess with that and you are likely to swap your non-problem for a show-stopping failure.
I say, go ahead and fuss over your plugs and your long cable runs. Those things can make a measurable difference, and it doesn’t hurt anything to upgrade them. But through-the-axle wiring? Mess with that and you are likely to swap your non-problem for a show-stopping failure.
dastardlyman
1 mW
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2020
- Messages
- 13
Balmohea - have you actually read ? internal controller has failed cannot get another one
there is no stock. comprehend? the helpful ebay seller has none. there is also no stock of controllers that will
work with the sw900 . . . . . . .
I cannot fix the original controller.
could just sit on it and do nothing and wait for stock from seller - no thanks - who knows when that will be.
what im trying to accomplish is to get the ebike working.
which is done - wired up new external controller and new lcd and throttle.
been out and put some miles on. all good so far.
the new external controller pictured is noisy - so its a square wave one.
the original failed controller was lovely and quiet .
whats good :
schwalbe fat frank tyres
M65/T brake pads
1500 supposed watts
whats bad:
controller noisy during acceleration (but fine on cruise)
best wishes to everyone
there is no stock. comprehend? the helpful ebay seller has none. there is also no stock of controllers that will
work with the sw900 . . . . . . .
I cannot fix the original controller.
could just sit on it and do nothing and wait for stock from seller - no thanks - who knows when that will be.
what im trying to accomplish is to get the ebike working.
which is done - wired up new external controller and new lcd and throttle.
been out and put some miles on. all good so far.
the new external controller pictured is noisy - so its a square wave one.
the original failed controller was lovely and quiet .
whats good :
schwalbe fat frank tyres
M65/T brake pads
1500 supposed watts
whats bad:
controller noisy during acceleration (but fine on cruise)
best wishes to everyone
