longer range (over 100 yards) wireless vibration alarm?

Hello,
I was planning to leave the bike near my building at work. The problem is that I sit on the 21st floor: I may not hear ordinary vibration alarm and Bluetooth alarms are out of range. Is there a non-Bluetooth alarm that could notify me if somebody is tempering with my bike?

I looked at existing WiFi locks but they all have poor reviews.

Perhaps there is a good GPS tracker specifically for bicycles with a vibration alarm? Something that could send a SMS to my phone if they try to take off the bike light, for example? I seemed to see only the one for motorcycles so far.

Can somebody recommend specific products/brands? I am looking for something specifically with a vibration alarm and not only a tracker, so I wouldn't spend time chasing thieves and trying to get the bike back, etc.

Thanks in advance.

It's a little involved, but using a spare/old/used cell phone might work for you.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pimouzdev.mbalarm&hl=en

I don't know all of what's in there, but there's a thread about various GPS / alarm / lock / etc stuff that might help:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71548

There are also a number of threads about antitheft devices/etc
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=theft&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sr=topics&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

and about alarms:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=alarm&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sr=topics&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

It would be much better for you to be able to park your bike in a secure location.

Is there a underground parking area in your building or nearby building with a attendant ?
or
A security Room / Area in your building ?
or
A place where you can lock it up where someone or many people can look out the window ?

Thanks.

I was going to park it in front of a security guard which sits in a neighboring building. The problem is if the guard needs to step out.

Garage is way too expensive where I work. Also, there are youtube videos of bikes getting stolen in broad daylight near other people. Sadly, but I guess people don't care that much about your stuff nowadays

My understanding is that the only way is to use a smaller secure level gold lock and attach both back wheel and frame. This would make it hard to cut with angle grinder without damaging the frame. However, I am worried that they may take front wheel with the motor. So I thought about 2nd secure level gold lock.

Vibration alarm should let me know if somebody is trying to cut the lock, etc. Does this whole setup sound plausible?

montana2436 said:

Thanks.

I was going to park it in front of a security guard which sits in a neighboring building. The problem is if the guard needs to step out.

Garage is way too expensive where I work. Also, there are youtube videos of bikes getting stolen in broad daylight near other people. Sadly, but I guess people don't care that much about your stuff nowadays

My understanding is that the only way is to use a smaller secure level gold lock and attach both back wheel and frame. This would make it hard to cut with angle grinder without damaging the frame. However, I am worried that they may take front wheel with the motor. So I thought about 2nd secure level gold lock.

Vibration alarm should let me know if somebody is trying to cut the lock, etc. Does this whole setup sound plausible?

Click to expand...

Plausible depends a LOT on the area you are in. Consider using a detachable battery that you take up with you to work. That reduced potential loss and makes the bike a bit less attractive. And, of course, making the bike look ratty might be helpful too.
Also, consider electrifying a folding bike that you could take with you up to the 21st floor. I used to sometimes commute on my modified Dahon folder. I'd fold it up and put it in its carry bag to haul upstairs (20th floor). I'd just stuff that bike under my desk.

If the thief uses an angle grinder, even if you saw it from a window, by the time you get down from the 21st floor, I betcha he will be done and gone.

This is what I'd do for that ebike.

Buy the shittiest looking frame that you make so that it operates smoothly and has no logo's on any kind on the bike and the components. Scratch them off!
Dont paint it shitty, buy a steel bicycle that is rusted!
Do not use disc brakes, use V-brakes.
Have a functional but looking shitty pedals and shitty crank arms and a shitty crankset.
Have a rusted rear rim, with rusted spokes.
Have the old school threaded handlebars.
Of course you gotta have a shitty seat, but tack weld that on there.
Have it all running smoothly.

Next up, move to a front hub motor setup with quick release hubs. Take that in with you to your office.
Leave the throttle on the handlebars, but add additional shitty things, like a shitty bell, anything else that looks shitty that people might put on a bicycles handlebar. Try to camoflauge the throttle the best you can.

Install a sturdy rear rack, tack weld it on. Rusted steel rack is your best choice.
Buy a used pannier bag, dingy and shitty looking. Sew it on to the back rack with some heavy thread.
Have a battery that you can easily place in the bag, and retrieve it. You can have it loose in there, then use XT90 connectors because they are large.

Now to the controller, this becomes an interesting dilemma. Buy a cheap $20 controller, hide it in the pannier bag, mount it so it can not be removed in anyway.

Wiring
Battery to controller is easy, up and over, hiding the wiring.

Controller to throttle, going to have to match the color of the wire to the brake/der housing and hide it because that will stay in place.

Phase, Halls from Controller to motor will have to do the same. There might be something you could do there in terms of ??? I was thinking shrink wrap over the brake/der housing. Heavy duty shrink wrap. If you are in a city of I'd say 250K+ there are stores that sell that. For example, in Calgary Alberta Canada, 1.3M there is a store called B&E Electronics, they are also in Regina I think, probably 400K. They sell what you want, and can mail it to you, paypal, cheap shipping. Can also checkout digikey and mouser.

Remember to have a spare rear wheel with you in your office, just in case.

Next up, I would buy the expensive Kryptonite NYC U-Lock, but take the logo's off, and have no yellow showing at all.

Lock up the bicycle next to other bicycles that are locked up.

No one will care about your bike, they wont even stand next to your bike to even smoke a cigarette. No one will even touch your bike it is so ugly. They wont even look at your bicycle its so ugly.

I forgot, have everything match in color and use color matched grips, that are rubbed and worn good.

If you go the "shitty" bike route outlined by markz, consider painting the controller black and mounting it underneath the rear rack. It pretty much disappears visually when you do that.

As for the throttle, this is where a PAS system can be a real benefit. I run about PAS only about 90% of the time these days and only use the throttle for added boost. I could get by without the hand throttle pretty easily. The PAS sensor is hard to detect. Also, I keep my batteries in plastic weatherproof cases similar to "Pelican" cases. If you could figure out a quick disconnect for those, that would work out pretty well for carrying a battery inside ... along with your motor wheel.

Also, If you want the actual components to be better, you might want to consider a uglifying the bike.

[youtube]R2QzusbKlGM[/youtube]

Uglification and taking the front wheel, etc are definitely good ideas.

I am just trying to add as many layers as possible. I hope they won't wait for hours until the guard steps out or ignore the vibration alarm.

Was anybody able to get any assistance to get stuff back with GPS trackers? What is the point of them then, if nobody will help you?

wturber said:

consider painting the controller black and mounting it underneath the rear rack. It pretty much disappears visually when you do that.

Click to expand...

Then I would suggest that controller be a cheap generic controller, like on ebay, the seller "hksunwin" has cheap controllers. But that seller increased their prices so find another one that someone has purchased and likes.

The ugly bike is the only reasonable solution to working on the 21st floor with no secure bike locker.
2nd up is a folding bicycle, but 20" wheels for commuting is not fun, I never ridden one. You could also buy a 26" wheel folding bicycle, you can look at the Montague folders which are good units.

https://youtu.be/LF_yMF5bC98?t=134

montana2436 said:

Uglification and taking the front wheel, etc are definitely good ideas.

I am just trying to add as many layers as possible. I hope they won't wait for hours until the guard steps out or ignore the vibration alarm.

Was anybody able to get any assistance to get stuff back with GPS trackers? What is the point of them then, if nobody will help you?

Click to expand...

It is just an annoyance to people passing by, its like when anyone hears a car alarm go off, no one cares, no one even looks.

Your best options are as mentioned. If you want a good looking ride, and have the space for a folding 26" Montague, then that is a great option.
I wouldn't trust an audible alarm from a movement of the bike, unless I can hear it.

I will give you a scenerio. I was at the 7-11, ran outta juice. This guy comes up, asks if I have $0.50, I say no sorry. He was looking at the payphone for the time, then he puts his hand in to see if there is any coins, then goes in to the bathroom. I go in, 1 minute later he walks out, so I just noticed him leave, so I am behind him by 15'. There were delivery people. I had my bike locked up at the wheel, he saw me locking it up. Nightime black lock, not a bright yellow NYC U lock. Come out, charger is on the ground, thick accented delivery guy says he attempted to take it. I knew. I stand waiting for charging maybe 10 minutes to get me home. Punk comes back, I am chill, no problem. He is now in for a long time, shooting up whatever in the bathroom. Crappy neighborhood, near the c-train station. Audible alarm would have worked there! Also works for bike rack lock, at McDonalds. Wheel lock at Subway, either across parking lot in sight for charge, or in front of floor to ceiling window. Home Depot, locked to the wheelbarrow bays, or trailers. Lots of foot traffic.

21st floor has its dilemma's man, it just does.
No styling and profiling points when your kicks are stolen. I can understand you not leaning more heavily towards the fugly bike idea.


I came up with another idea. Call it plan A. Hidden small rear motor.
Fugly E-Bike
Cheap controller painted black under the rear rack.
Cheap rear hub motor, that is small, so geared perhaps 500W.
Dingy, molding rear pannier bags big enough to cover everything in the back. Literally a bag that goes below the rear axle.

Here comes the interesting part. So plan B. Lock motor, or motor and frame all in one!
Wont work with geared, but will with direct drive. Drill hole through cover plates, use a long ass U lock. Paint inside the motor.
Cant really weld on securement between the flanges, balancing issues.

Just spit balling ideas here for ya.

how long is your commute? What are the road conditions?

wturber said:

how long is your commute? What are the road conditions?

Click to expand...

Good point, because if its short, then a 20 or 24" folder may work, if space is a requirement in the cubical/office.

Oh ya, going to say about the locking motor part, just through the spokes, and over the wheel all the need to do is have tin snips. Thats why I mention two holes, on both coverplates, that line up, with the holes big enough for a large U lock.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/U-Lock-HEAVY-DUTY-Anti-Theft-Extra-Long-For-Bike-Bicycle-Glass-Door-With-3-keys/223052675099?hash=item33eef9b81b:g:SgYAAOSwfbRbZ7DK:rk:2f:0
Lock max length: 290mm (11.5")

https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Bulldog-U-Lock-Black-11-50/dp/B008OHBE8S


More crazy ideas!

All the kryptonite yellows are 10.5" or less in length. Buy the Kryptonite NYC, and fabricate your own U or just extend it by welding. Could even add more thickness to the U while your at it. Welding makes it stronger then original material.

markz said:

wturber said:

how long is your commute? What are the road conditions?

Click to expand...

Good point, because if its short, then a 20 or 24" folder may work, if space is a requirement in the cubical/office.

Click to expand...

I used to ride about nine miles on my commute downtown using my modified 16" wheel Dahon folder. It was very doable given that the streets were in relatively good shape. The fun thing about small wheel bikes is that they accelerate quite nicely. I plan on putting a small motor on the Dahon in the near future - just for fun.

Smaller wheel means more torque, more get up and go from a stand still. I never ridden one myself, I dunno if it can handle 390lbs of pure muscle, cough cough I mean fat. Then a 6'4" / 6'5" on a small bike like that, hehehehe hiccup. Club Soda I just finished a nice cruise, just rode around with no where to go. Went 15km on a slow cruise, juiced up at a Walmart, looked at some winter coats to get an idea of what will be 75% off in a few months 8) Went into dollarama to find some fluerescent nail polish or markers, for my battery/cont connection at night. Then went another 13km. Nice round trip and I never felt no real slack from the controllers LVC. Only thing with my setup with the added shunt from another cont, is it tends to hesitate. I never used that cont without the shunt mod. Basically went from a ratty 35A generic, to a 45A rated, added another shunt to the already 3, so assume its like 50-55A to be on the lower side. Its really the difference for the hills, especially my fat ass. Be nice to get a feel for when a smaller wheel diameter. I couldnt imagine a 16" bicycle rim, be tremendous torque. A 16" scooter rim is 20" bicycle, thats what I got, waiting for 104mm spokes instead of 100mm I got yesterday.

wturber said:

I used to ride about nine miles on my commute downtown using my modified 16" wheel Dahon folder. It was very doable given that the streets were in relatively good shape. The fun thing about small wheel bikes is that they accelerate quite nicely. I plan on putting a small motor on the Dahon in the near future - just for fun.

Click to expand...

It isn't the torque that matters. It is the lower rotational inertia. And no, I don't think it would be a good idea for someone weighing more nearly 400 lbs to get on my little ol' Dahon folder. It was less uncomfortable to ride 25 years ago, but never was super-comfortable. But I could carry it up to the 20th floor. :^)

(61 x 11) top gearing to make up for the small wheels.

I would love to have a 60T in my gearing pile., just got a bunch of 52's.
20th floor add battery, cont, motor for that extra bit of sweat producing muscle tone.

wturber said:

It isn't the torque that matters. It is the lower rotational inertia. And no, I don't think it would be a good idea for someone weighing more nearly 400 lbs to get on my little ol' Dahon folder. It was less uncomfortable to ride 25 years ago, but never was super-comfortable. But I could carry it up to the 20th floor. :^)

(61 x 11) top gearing to make up for the small wheels.

Click to expand...

Finding that chainring was hard back in the early 90s. In fact, I made a 72 tooth ring myself for the first go-round. But Mr. Bill at Landis Cyclery on Indian School went hunting through his catalogues. He found the 11 tooth freewheel, hooked me up with the crank conversion kit to get rid of the one piece kit, etc. Would have been very hard to find stuff without help from a guy like that.