Bionx controller replacement

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Apr 26, 2019
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Now that I have the motor open (easy to do with a gear puller), I need help identifying some wires.

What are the two fine wires that go from "J5 GAGE" on the controller (first image) to the center of the rotor where they disappear at the rotor under black sealant (third picture)?

What are the three white connectors that have three wires each, span the distance from windings to controller, and are glued down on both sides? (Second pic)
 

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chiefebikeoperator said:
Now that I have the motor open (easy to do with a gear puller), I need help identifying some wires.

What are the two fine wires that go from "J5 GAGE" on the controller (first image) to the center of the rotor where they disappear at the rotor under black sealant (third picture)?

What are the three white connectors that have three wires each, span the distance from windings to controller, and are glued down on both sides? (Second pic)

Those are the Hall sensor connectors.
 
chiefebikeoperator said:
What are the two fine wires that go from "J5 GAGE" on the controller (first image) to the center of the rotor where they disappear at the rotor under black sealant (third picture)?
strain gauge used for torque sensing. if you aren't using the original contorller those wires are useless to you unless you buld electronics to output a signal compatibel with your replacment controller,

What are the three white connectors that have three wires each, span the distance from windings to controller, and are glued down on both sides? (Second pic)

hall sensors. probably the first wire on the left, if holding the motor so the coils are on top and the wires stick out below them, is 5v, middle is probably ground, and right is probably signal output.


if ti helps i just rewired a stromer motor from it's internal controlelr to be able to use an external one though ti's not yet tested with one, over here
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=86600&p=1463762#p1463762
 
I have the proprietary BionX controller removed, and am now ready to wire in the Phaserunner L10 connector. I need some advice on mapping the Hall wires to the L10 connector. Each Hall has three pins. +, ground, signal. The L10 shows the small yellow, blue and green wires as being for Hall sensors. Which leads to these questions...

1. Which pin maps to which color on the L10 connector?
2. Can I solder directly to the Hall pins? If not, what is a better approach?
3. What order are the pins in? I know it is +, ground, signal, but which way is correct? right to left? left to right? looking from where?
4. Do all + map to one color, all ground to one color, and all signal to one color? If so, why do three different Hall sensors provide the same info to the controller?
 
Below is a typical hall sensor pinout. (note the tiny +, -, and o. O is the output signal).

The + and - power wires from all 3 sensors are tied together. This powers them.
The signal wires stay separate and go to the controller.

Hall Sensor orientation.JPG
 
Fechter, Just need a little clarification. The three + pins are connected to each other, and the three - are connected to each other, right? "This powers them". What is "this". What is the power source? Do they not get connected to a power source?
 
Correct. The 5v supply comes from the controller. It should be on the same connector as the hall signals.
 
IMG_20190609_112036~2.jpg
I have the controller removed and the motor rewired. The hall sensor leads slip around in their sleeves. Is this going to be a problem. The sensors don't seat and can slide out and protrude. A little glue maybe? CA glue?
 
Hoping to score some bionX motors on the local el-cheapo 2nd hand website, but am a cheapskate so my offer may not be high enough.

They would be a perfect test vehicle for a new and experimental completely sensorless but with full torque from standstill controller build...
 
Hello All, lately I was given a old Bionx PL-350 with a dead battery.
A new project !

I decided to open it and replace the controller with an external one ( Lyen Edition 9 FET :twisted: :flame: )
Using ebikes.ca youtube instructions, everything went very nicely. :D
Once closed I quickly figured out the phases combinaison required to make the motor turn smoothly.

At first everything was perfect, but just before relacing the motor, while measuring max engine rpm, I noticed that sometimes the motor would "vibrate" at certain positions. You could hear a loud thump, suggesting me that something was wrong. :?

After ruling out the controller by testing with another one, I put some LEDs + 5k resistors on 3 phases hall sensor signal and +5V, and I saw some glitches on the Hall Sensor signals while turning the motor by hand near the position where the thump was heard. :shock:

[youtube]https://youtu.be/hRlc6hcNoiQ[/youtube]

So I reopened the motor, to find ... absolutely no apparent problems.
Every wire is still ok, no wire rubbing or stretching ... :cry:

I don't know , but could it be related to the hall orientation, as the hall sensors were loose and I had to epoxy them down.
One of the hall sensor is not 100% perpendicular to surface, could it be the problem ? Is the orientation important ?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EPtug8nhKdHsCa627

What should I do ?

a) Shoud I replace the hall sensors ?
b) Should I buy a new Sensorless controller ? What ? Where ?
That would be sad, I really liked the Lyen, as it is programmable and powerful.

I will try first to redo the wiring, just in case that one wire is broken, but I doubt that this will fix the problem...

Any advice is welcomed !

Fred
 
fredo gauvino said:
At first everything was perfect,
What, specifically and exactly, was changed between the time it was "perfect" and the time the problem started?

but just before relacing the motor, while measuring max engine rpm, I noticed that sometimes the motor would "vibrate" at certain positions. You could hear a loud thump, suggesting me that something was wrong. :?
What exactly do you mean by "loud" and what exactly by "thump"? To me, that phrase would be something like a book being dropped from a height and landing flat on the ground, or a fist on big wooden table, or a small explosion, or someone hitting my ribcage, etc.

If I heard a sound I could describe as a "loud thump" from a hubmotor, I would expect to see pieces of it strewn about. ;)

I"m asking because if the sound is related to the problem, or causing a problem with operation, then knowing exactly what that sound is may be very important.

I myself wouldn't call it a "thump" but I have heard a sound from a motor with poor timing control of the phases by the controller, that would cause the controller to actually try to reverse direction instantaneously just for one cycle, and that can be rather loud. Some have had this and called it a bang, which may also be called a thump if it was a bit less loud. :)

This kind of timing problem is often caused by a problem with hall sensor positions, vs what the controller expects, but it isnt' likely to be the problem you describe further down with orientation; rather it is where the sensors are placed vs which phases and magnets interact for each cycle. Sometimes it is an offset, and sometimes it is directional (works fine with one rotation direction, problematic in the other).

After ruling out the controller by testing with another one, I put some LEDs + 5k resistors on 3 phases signal and +5V, and I saw some glitches on the Hall Sensor signals while turning the motor by hand near the position where the thump was heard. :shock:
In order to test the halls, you would have to put the LEDs and resistors on the hall wires, not the phases. THe phases will only give much of a signal if you spin the motor relatively quickly, while the hall signals can be read this way with only single-magnet-position movements.




[youtube]https://youtu.be/hRlc6hcNoiQ[/youtube]
I don't hear any thumps in the video. I can hear what might be scraping of wires or windings on the covers. Is there abrasion of any kind on any of the wires, windings, or covers, inside the motor?

I couldn't tell what the hall signals were because the camera kept moving around, and the LEDs are dim, and I can't see the motor and the halls at the same time to see the relative changes vs the motor speed/rotation.

What is the specific "glitch" that you see? Is it a change in the pattern? If so, what pattern do you see, vs what you expect to see?


don't know , but could it be related to the hall orientation, as the hall sensors were loose and I had to epoxy them down.
One of the hall sensor is not 100% perpendicular to surface, could it be the problem ? Is the orientation important ?
It is unlikely to be that; there is significant variation in orientation in cheap hubmotors and they generally work ok. If it was very far off, it would probably not get a signal at all, or would have the wrong timing/etc. vs the other ones, all the time not just at one specific sound point.

You'd have to move the sensor to match the others to verify this though. (I would save that as a last step though).


https://photos.app.goo.gl/EPtug8nhKdHsCa627
I can't access the image. If you attach it to your post, anyone that can see the post can see the image.
 
Hello, thanks for the answer!

Yes, sorry, my LEDs were on the HALL sensors and not the phases, my mistake. Doh.

I think that you are right the Thump or Bang that I hear is exactly that, the controller reversing direction momentarely.
You hear it in the video, @ 38~40s, but it is a low-frequency sound. Maybe cheap head phones wont play it.

The video does not show the glitches I saw, but I could clearly see some flickering on the LEDs (hall sensors) at some spots, while slowly turning the wheel by hand.

I don't remember exactly which hall was flickering, but I found out that one is badly oriented and covered with epoxy.
It is going to be hard to move them, since they are glued :(

There is no visible abrasion of any kind once that I re-opened the motor, but the motor did not turn for very long...
I also agree with you that it sounds like if something is dragging.
Maybe my bearings are old... There was a lot of corrosion on the casing. That would not explain the problem.

Here are some attached photos, don't know how to embed them :
 

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fredo gauvino said:
I think that you are right the Thump or Bang that I hear is exactly that, the controller reversing direction momentarely.
I actually broke a motor axle from that when beta testing a sensorless FOC controller whose software lost track of the motor position/direction. :oops: Sheared it right off. Not likely to happen in your situation (not enough torque and load)

The video does not show the glitches I saw, but I could clearly see some flickering on the LEDs (hall sensors) at some spots, while slowly turning the wheel by hand.
That kind of problem can cause the issue you see, if the hall signal combo the controller sees at any instant represents a motor position that tells it to send phase signals out of sequence.

When things are working right, you should see *only* the clear on/off sequencing of the LEDs.


I don't remember exactly which hall was flickering, but I found out that one is badly oriented and covered with epoxy.
It is going to be hard to move them, since they are glued :(
From what I can see in the pic, the actual sensors aren't glued, nor their actual wires or leads, just the insulation tubes. So you can probably very carefully (the leads are very fragile, especially at the base of the sensor!) move the leads/wires inside those tubes to reposition the sensors.

There appears to be a tiny bit of epoxy on one of the sensor bodies, but a sharp razor blade can be used to carefully cut thru that, very gently, between the sensor and the motor laminations.


Maybe my bearings are old... There was a lot of corrosion on the casing. That would not explain the problem.
No, it wouldn't. However...if a bearing is corroded enough to actually flake metal off the races or the balls, that metal can end up sometimes rolling between a ball and a race, and *that* can make a heck of a noise, especially with a big hollow "bell" of the motor casing.

When you have the covers off, you can put a finger in one, then hold the finger out horizontally, cover vertical, and spin it with your hand. You shouldn't feel much of anything with your finger that's inside the bearing hole, but if it feels bumpy, or vibrating, there is probably stuff in the bearing. If that's the case, you can buy new bearings from places like Mcmaster-carr, if you don't have any local sources.
 
Hello all !

I finally had some time this weekend to retry a third time.
I was able to completely remove the old epoxy, freeing the hall sensors and re-glued them more precisely.
I also rewired the internal phases, and I discovered that I had finally some rubbing occuring...
I overestimated the space available on one side of the controller.
So I re-routed some wires more inteligently, and Voilà ! No more rubbing or thumping.
Now I don't know if the problem was cause by wires or hall placement, but who cares, it works now.
Next step is to relace the wheel, put some statoraid in the hub, and find a suitable cargo bike...
I was thinking of the Mongoose Envoy cargo bike or something like this.
I have set the max amps parameter to 30 amps, for a start.

Thanks for the help amberwolf !
Fred
 
I really don't think this motor is all that suitable for a cargo bike. IMO you need the bionx D or a geared hub motor. I think this will overheat if you run it in hilly terrain
 
Hmmm...Even with statoraid in it ? :cry:
The wire gage is very thick! :p

With the remaining two wires I have added a 10k thermistor, but I have not figured yet how I am going to be monitoring the temperature.
My current Lyen controller does not have a temperature input.
Maybe something like this could do the trick :

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...ThmDElg9CSOrtGjWWVhI0mIcxLNARzJsaAgZaEALw_wcB

but it can only display temp up to 70 celcius, which is not very high.

Also, I live in Montreal Canada, which is not very hilly. I will try it anyway and keep you inform of how it behaves !
 
Well try and take a look in here and check your parameters :)

https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
 
€ 1,09 15%OFF | DC 0-100V 0.36" Digital Voltmeter Panel 4 Digit High Accuracy Car Voltage Meter 12V 48V 60V Battery Capacity Tester Detector
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKMtRQT

Buy an Lm35 and this voltmeter. Get the 5volt from the hall connector. This is the cheapest - no bbq - method.

I am sooo fcked with this bionx motor. I put the halls back into their place but the hall sequence is just wrong no matter what I do. Can you confirm it's 120 degrees? I am starting to think it isnt.
 
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