TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[michih.]

does the software also work for the p860c display? is this a new version? there is an 860c and a p860c at Ali ......

MFG Michael

[chilau2000]

Hi

Can the latest TSDZ2 mid drives be flashed with custom firmware.
I read somewhere that the latest ones can't be flashed.

Not if they have the new controller in them.
If it's a new motor with the old style controller (like PSWPower are still selling), then it's all good.

Ok thanks
Any other way of telling if it has new or old conroller ?

[Evelosimo]

I finally succeeded in installing the v20.1C.3 firmware onto the new version of the TSDZ2 after the 850C display went dead on me with the older firmware and many unsuccessful attempts, thank you everyone who helped figure this one out
I still have not taken the bike out for a ride, it is a cargo bike with 2 motors, a 1000w hub motor in the front along the TSDZ2, the idea is to get the mid drive to help mostly for the climbs so it would be good to fine tune the TSDZ2 so it kicks in only mostly when needed.
I am sure there will be more questions as I learn more and sorry if this has already been covered but I am missing something. The display only shows 100 percent in spite of the battery being half charged, I did measure it separately and it is a 48v battery, I thought that maybe it is because I need to adjust the voltage settings on the display but I don’t seem to be able to access hardly anything on the menu, I hold the up and down buttons and a few things start flashing but nowhere I seem to be able to get to voltage or more in depth settings.
The version I used to flash the controller came from this thread and not being very fluent with firmware uploads I may have flashed the hex files improperly or only partially. I watched a few tutorial on how to do it, yet everyone’s method differs a little, if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great.

Thx for the help and all the good work, ebikes are the future.

[Elinx]

....
Any other way of telling if it has new or old conroller ?

If you have this motor already, you can do this with a multimeter.
You need to measure between 2 lowest pins on the speedconnector.
You will measure 0V for the new or 5V for the old controller. Most controllers are still the old type (5V).

[Blacklite]

I am sure there will be more questions as I learn more and sorry if this has already been covered but I am missing something. The display only shows 100 percent in spite of the battery being half charged, I did measure it separately and it is a 48v battery, I thought that maybe it is because I need to adjust the voltage settings on the display but I don’t seem to be able to access hardly anything on the menu, I hold the up and down buttons and a few things start flashing but nowhere I seem to be able to get to voltage or more in depth settings.

Have you read the excellent instruction manual with the firmware?

To get to settings hold down up and down and tap the power button.

The displayed charge is based on used energy, not measuring battery voltage.

[Evelosimo]

Thank you, I had not come across the instructions yet and have found them. I went for a ride and tried a few different settings unfortunately the power limit seems very low, it feels as if the controller was set to 6 or 7 amps even though I have the motor power set at 750w, battery max current at 16 amps.

[mbrusa]

You are probably in Street mode with a power limit of 250W.
Check the "Street mode" item in the configuration menu.

[Evelosimo]

Got it, it is working great!

The only thing that was difficult to get to was to get into the street mode option, initially the 850C display kept freezing and I had to disconnect it to turn it off which is why I stopped trying to get into it however that was not an issue when I just got it today, not sure why. The other thing is that the street mode seems to kick back in whenever I turn the display on even though I have it disabled upon start as well, that was an easy fix though I just tuned up to 750w and speed to 50km and it seems that it is staying off now anyway, I probably forgot to press on something while setting it up.

Looking forward to fine tuning the bike a little more, it is a dual motor, so the TSDZ2 just mostly kicks in for climbing whenever necessary and this is a bit of an unusual set up but so far it is working awesome for a heavy cargo bike.

Thank you for the great work!

[michih.]

when do you want to release the v20.1C.4?

MFG Michael

[mbrusa]

The new version v20.1C.4 for stock displays has been ready for a while.
Although I mainly use the bike with the 860C version, with the ones with XH18 I have done more than 1000 km from June to today without any problems.
But I don't think about releasing this new version if I don't find the cause of the mosfet problems that have been with v20.1C.3 for stock displays.
Soon I will be releasing an intermediate version based on v20.1C.1 instead of v20.1C.3, but with all the other changes made to the new one.
For 860C, v20.1C.3 remains valid, the new one is ready too but I haven't tried it yet.

[Elinx]

The new version v20.1C.4 for stock displays has been ready for a while.
Although I mainly use the bike with the 860C version, with the ones with XH18 I have done more than 1000 km from June to today without any problems.
But I don't think about releasing this new version if I don't find the cause of the mosfet problems ......

Because you don't experience any problems yourself, you can consider releasing v20.1C.4 for stock displays as an alpha version with a warning (not solved Mosfet problem) and a disclaimer.

[Gogolo]

Hi
I'm planning to buy a tsdz2 with a hx18 and maybe going osf. Am I correct that I only have to flash the motor and not the hx18? Could I revert back to stock?

Thx for your help,
Olivier

[Elinx]

.. Am I correct that I only have to flash the motor and not the hx18? Could I revert back to stock?

Yes and Yes

Before flashing make a backup of the 3 "tabs"with STVP for Windows with the setting STM8S105x4
Close STVP for Windows
Setup the desired configuration values with the Java configurator and hit "compile&Flash" for flashing OSF

Revert back
Open STVP for Windows with setting STM8S105x4
Flash the 3 backup files once at a time.

If you forgotten to make a backup
You find the stock files here too

[Gogolo]

.. Am I correct that I only have to flash the motor and not the hx18? Could I revert back to stock?

Yes and Yes

Before flashing make a backup of the 3 "tabs"with STVP for Windows with the setting STM8S105x4
Close STVP for Windows
Setup the desired configuration values with the Java configurator and hit "compile&Flash" for flashing OSF

Revert back
Open STVP for Windows with setting STM8S105x4
Flash the 3 backup files once at a time.

If you forgotten to make a backup
You find the stock files here too

Thx very very much! I'm looking forward to upgrade my kona dew to a e-tourer. Hope everything fits.

[Peacepirate]

Hey guys.
Maybe some of you don’t know there is a new display firmware for sw102 displays available:

https://github.com/anszom/SW102_LCD

Looks like quite nice with those graphs. Maybe an inspiration to adapt it for this firmware too…

[fietstasss]

I do have a very weird issue with my TSDZ2 project.


Before, i had succesfully ran with a 14S setup, using the ESP32 kit from MSpider65, and have had quite some fun with it. This (offcourse, as expected) ruined my plastic gear, but this wasn't an issue, as I quickly managed to replace it with the Brass variant.

But, after putting in the brass gear and reassembling everything i've seen some strange electrical issues, shorts/sparks in the controller, replaced the controller with a new one (that's #2), double-checked all wiring and assembled again. Mind you, this controller was already 'modified' by me from new, to be working with the ESP32 wiring.
Again, some sparks going around, but i had already installed a fuse now between controller and battery, that fuse jumped out quite quickly.

To be safe, i then ordered a new motor (that's also #2), and installed it, unfortunately i still did see issues with short circuits and other strange behaviour.

To be sure and go all the way, I then ordered a new motor AND new controller (that's #3 for both!), with the plan to install them 'as default' and get the TSDZ2 running 'as should be from factory' first. This should give a good, fresh base-line to get going from again first.

This controller and motor have come in, and i've installed them. I've drained my battery to as far as 54.49v (it's a 14S / 52V battery), then for the first time switched on the battery, switched on the controller and it looks fine.
Only problem; It gives a E02 error, not sure why this happens.

Well, in a try to get rid of the E02, i then uploaded the OSF firmware, and with the JAVA configurator set the battery to be 14 cells large.
Uploaded the firmware, and tried the working of it.

Although i did get some E04 error at first, it seemed to be working on the next try anyway.

I'm not 100% sure if did get some 'assistance' from the motor but i'm quite sure it did (i tested it with my bike hanging from the ceiling). This also caused my small 5A fuse to burn out cause the motor offcourse draws more than 5A when giving proper assistance. I've introduced this fuse just as a extra safety-margin to prevent major currents going over the motor or controller in case of any further short circuits etc.

So far so good, let's put in a bit larger fuse (10A this time) and see if we can get the motor to be running again.

Put in the fuse, turned on the battery, then turned on the display (VLCD5), and after a few seconds (without further touching the bike), bam! fuse is out.

Now, everytime I put in a new fuse, it burns out immediately (with a bang!) a few seconds after turning on the display.

I don't see short-circuit (continuity between my main-power-in leads (with battery disconnected offcourse) all the time, altough sometimes i do see continuity with roughly 470 Ohm resistance in between. When I then back-roll my wheel, which moves the motor slowly, it seems to dissapear into no-continuity.

I'm not sure at all what to do now and what else could cause these issues. Basically i've replaced the motor and controller two times already, the last time being both together at same time.

I'm still able to program the controller by the way, as long as i don't turn on the display.

Hoping anyone here can help me out on how to get this issue captured, maybe anything to get started with checking/measuring, etc.

Thanks a very, very lot in advance!

[mbrusa]

Fireworks with three different firmware versions?
Stock firmware error E02 = Motor hall fault or motor short circuit.
OSF (you should specify which version) error E04 = Motor or wheel blocked, excessive current absorption without motor rotation.
Similar errors, the cause may be the same.
It could be a mechanical problem, with brass gear it happens.
ry to disassemble the motor leaving the electrical connections and see if with walk assist the motor turns.
If that still doesn't work, remove the battery and try to disconnect the three motor wires.
Check with a tester the wires coming out of the controller, there must be no continuity between them.
One question, when you replaced the motor, did you use the original screws for the connection? Longer screws touch the bottom causing a short circuit.

[Gogolo]

One question: does the osf still has the problem of random motor bursts or has this been solved? This sounds really dangerous. Thx, Olivier

[mbrusa]

If you mean the burnt mosfets problem, there have been reports with v20.1C.3 and v20.1C.3.NEW for stock displays, these versions have been suspended.
Then there is the problem of the motor that sometimes turns without pedaling.
This is a rare issue and has been reported in all versions of OSF for stock displays.
When that happens, with v20.1B just turn off the display.
In the case of v20.1C.1, turning off the display with the motor running can cause problems with the controller, better disconnect the battery.
I have not identified the cause, but in the new version I am testing, I have added cross-checks of the motor parameters to stop it in the case of incompatible values.

With versions v20.1C.3 and v20.1C.3.NEW for 860C and LCD3 displays, these problems have never been reported.

[Gogolo]

If you mean the burnt mosfets problem, there have been reports with v20.1C.3 and v20.1C.3.NEW for stock displays, these versions have been suspended.
Then there is the problem of the motor that sometimes turns without pedaling.
This is a rare issue and has been reported in all versions of OSF for stock displays.
When that happens, with v20.1B just turn off the display.
In the case of v20.1C.1, turning off the display with the motor running can cause problems with the controller, better disconnect the battery.
I have not identified the cause, but in the new version I am testing, I have added cross-checks of the motor parameters to stop it in the case of incompatible values.

With versions v20.1C.3 and v20.1C.3.NEW for 860C and LCD3 displays, these problems have never been reported.

Thx, I meant the motor running without pedaling, which may be fatal in the mountains or on a stop signal. I think it is a very good idea to implement a crosscheck, e. g. also to never turn the motor on when there is no force on the pedals.
Thx for your great work!

[Nrgbod]

Hi could anyone help with the following problem.
I've been running OSF on my tsdz2 and sw102 on my enduro mtb for a few weeks problem free and it is superb.
I set my sons bike up with an identical setup a week ago but while out on a ride yesterday the SW102 display locked up while trying to use walk mode. Now, apart from "on" none of the buttons work and the bike is stuck in the last used mode ie. Emtb mode2 and the battery has to be unplugged to turn it off. We managed to ride back home with it locked up and since then I reflashed sw102-otaupdate-20.1C.3.zip but nothing changed. I then reflashed it with sw102-otaupdate-0.19.11 but that has put it in power mode and level 0. The buttons are still not working so now the bike is not usable as its stuck in power 0.
I swapped the keypad board temporarily from my bike and everything worked fine with my board installed. I've tested the buttons on my sons board with a meter and they are switching but the chipset or software is not responding to the presses.
Is there any key combinations that could cause this lockup and does anybody have any ideas how to fix this or do I have to order another sw102???

[andyb]

Hello and please can someone advise/help.

I shifted my motor and 860c to a new bike and now it doesn't work, the main problem I am having is that I can't reflash the 860c to try old version etc (see below)

It started with RX error, I had the Rx and Tx backwards, now I get Brake error

Here's a list of things I have tried in no particular order.

Re-flashed the motor (TSDZ2 48v), this worked with no problems.
Checked the wiring many times
Built a new cable tried that.
Tried to re-flash the 860c, I have flashed this previously with no problems.
Run software as admin
restarted laptop
tried with only the flasher connected to the laptop.
Checked the connections again

When I try to flash the 860c the Rx stays at zero and then goes up by 1 or 2 (long and short) on the power button of the 860c wired controller. I kept at this for quite a while.

The 860c powers on and 'works' i can access all the menus, but with 'brake error'.

Please can someone advise.

Thanks.

[mbrusa]

The "Error brakes" error is a bit ambiguous, I left the original description even if it would be more correct to define it "Error comms", it means that there is no communication between the display and the motor controller.
I am thinking of a wiring problem.
But if you fail to flash, the com port may be damaged.
Didn't you unplug the connector with the display on?

[andyb]

Thanks for the reply.

I'm not sure about unplugging with the display on, I could have done so.
When you say the com port do you mean on my laptop. i'm going to try another computer tonight.
The thing is that i have flashed using the same kit before.
I'm going to re-flash the motor back to stock all 3 tabs and then re-flash it with the OSF to see if thats it.
In terms of wiring I will go back and check, i hope i missed something but I have tested.

In case I might need to replace the unit, before I do so, is there any chance that your OSF will at some point be compatible with Cass' wireless display unit?

Thanks again, really appreciated the response.

[mbrusa]

...
I'm not sure about unplugging with the display on, I could have done so.
When you say the com port do you mean on my laptop. i'm going to try another computer tonight.
...

I meant the com port of the display.
If there is no communication with the controller and neither with the laptop, using different cables, the problem is in the display.

In case I might need to replace the unit, before I do so, is there any chance that your OSF will at some point be compatible with Cass' wireless display unit?

No, it doesn't work, major changes would be needed.