Recoiling a small geared Bafang rear motor

Hello
It has been said that recoiling a dc motor is one of the most labor consuming thing one could be doing with the motor. I'm at this stage that I'm considering buying a new rear motor for my 2wd bike or recoiling the old one. The gearing went bad and I managed to find a new set of gears from Ali. After replacing the gearset I noticed that the new gears were "stuck" when rotating the wheel and by more thorough inspection I found out that the copper coiling has given through and the motor was shorted.

I decided to recoil the motor and I would like to know how should I do it?
I understand one could increase the torgue with thicker coiling wire but haven't got a clue how much should I order or should I do it at all, considering that I cannot put any beefier motor cable wires anyhow because the motor cable fitting is already tight.
Any threads here that could help me with the same issue?

It is cheaper to buy a new hub motor look for good internet deals there is a great deal on a used rental geared hub motor for 40$ at batteryclearinghouse https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/search?type=product&q=NOT+tag%3A__gift+AND+hub*

He's in Finland. That might change the equation somewhat.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=114604

Motors do burn up either from defect or excessive abuse.

The first thing you need to do is identify exactly what you are dealing with as far as the wire thickness and number of turns.

And then you must buy the wire which is a special wire designed for electric motors and has a very high temperature covering for insulation. Buy the highest temperature they sell.

Then you need to physically do the work which might sound easy but I'm struggling to do it because the curves are very tight and it's a very tight fit.

The RC forums for Radio Control cars and airplanes are really up on this and so you can check them.

My advice would be to replicate the Stock windings EXACTLY and begin by taking lot's of pictures to be sure you remember because it's easy to get lost and forget what you need to do.

For what it's worth, the kind of heat that burns the varnish off of stator windings can also partially demagnetize the permanent magnets in the rotor.

Chalo said:

For what it's worth, the kind of heat that burns the varnish off of stator windings can also partially demagnetize the permanent magnets in the rotor.

Click to expand...

True.

In his case it was broken gears throwing something against the coils and destroying them.

My motor seems to have burnt because the Stock windings were loose enough that a wire got outside and started a chain reaction of failure.

Another motor I had of the same type threw a magnet after being abused for thousands of miles.

Cheap stuff breaks. And the harder you push cheap stuff the quicker you need to find work arounds to improve on the base product.

I find that if I don't personally pay close attention to just about everything on my home built ebike that everything I was NOT involved with previously will be the weak link. It took me a long time to modify a bicycle hub to handle the large loads in the rear wheel because of the extra motor power but eventually with three sealed bearings I have fixed that problem as far as I can tell.

So the last area left now is rewinding the motor... but I could just shell out another $60 and likely go another six months before something breaks.

These cheap mass produced products can sometimes work fine and sometimes they fail rapidly.

With the RC (Radio Controlled) crowd they are focused on their motors and make rewinding them an artform.

But most ebike folks are not interested in this and would rather just pay the money for replacement parts.

Thanks for the replies. What is the name of the insulator plastic(?) sheet that comes around the windings at bobbin? I'm trying to finally order the needed equipment to do this. Anything handy I should consider buying along with the obvious copper and insulation?

Ok. I have done some calculations and measurements while disassembling the old coil winding.
I want my motor to operate best at the 52V instead of the original 36V voltage. I would like to get this increase of power to the torque and not so much max speed because I have a DD rear motor and this is the front motor of the 2WD bike. If I understand correctly, by decreasing the number of turns, I can get more torgue out of the same slot space. I'm not going to use 36V battery for this anymore so how should I wind my motor to best suit my 58.8V max battery voltage and address that to torgue more than max speed.

The old motor winding was:
- 0.5mm coated copper wire
- 5 wires per bundle
- 10 turns per slot
- Total: 900 turns
- 7A (rated from controller)
- 36V (rated motor specs)
- 250W (rated motor specs)

I was driving it with max:
- 7A (from S06S controller)
- 58.8V (from battery)
- Total: 411.6W

The motor has:
- 18 slots
- 20 magnets(poles)

Battery:
- 14S battery
- 7A rated controller (max 15A)

Is this the correct way to do the winding?
How should I change the turn count? What limit's are there with the thickness of the copper, other than the challenge of making the turns?

Can I use Barley paper for the winding insulation? I'm having hard time finding a proper product...

Re-wind of a turnigy 80/100 (Now-tutorial w/Video)" (Thud, 17 pages)
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=20618