Scott Drive SD300 (300+KW)

Rovii

1 kW
Joined
Mar 13, 2017
Messages
434
Hi everyone,
now I have ordered and payed my next controller type. This high power controller will actually have the best price/power ratio on the market.
Maybe here are guys who build more powerful controllers, I don’t know but I do not have the experience to do this. Therefore I decided to go whith this type!
Of course Zilla2K can provide more power but he is 3k€ more expensive and I wanna go with bldc motor technology. Of course, up to 800V is much more than I handled before (175VDC/118VDC) but it seems to be easier to get the high power. Maybe I will get the controller in 4 week (Shipping shall be take place in two weeks). So I will update from time to time parts of installation and parameterisation. Well I have not yet decided for a motor type. This topic I want to handle by next year (Safe money)!
 
Got it now!
Can operate up to 800VDC and will deliver up to 600Arms motor phase current.
Manufacturer statement. If cooling temp will be not higher than 25°C, around 400kW will be possible.
So a real statement will be of course above 300kW and the more interesting part is the price (1/3 costs of RMS PM250DZ)!
The controller power is more than I need for future.
I will start with less power to see how it will works.

The motor I am planing was postboned to 2020.
 
Nice controller my friend!
 
Very nice controller!
I have a question why didn't you go for the SD100 or SD200 instead to save some space?
I think you will never use all this peak power because even for a car is alot!

I saw at your photos this controller takes 1/3 of your battery space.
 
Thx Luke, thx icherouveim and yes he is really huge!
I am absolutely not sure how much power is really needed for drag racing but I think at the end you can not have enough!
It’s maybe better to have it!
The other point is to get 200KVA it was also possible to buy another EmDrive500 to get up to 1600Arms @ 120VDC.
But what I have learned in the past. Too much current will destroy a motor and I talked to Roman from Emrax to go with LV268 and two EmDrive 500 and he said that I will definitely destroy the 268 with that high current even with this short bursts of it. The other point will be the cost of one EmDrive 500. It´s half the cost of SD300 and you have only 1/3 or 1/4 of power at the end.
As you can see I have a huge choice of controllers and maybe after this build I will take the EmDrive500 and implement it to my bicycle (Straightliner) with another QS273 80H. But actually this project far far away!

I also wrote it in the other thread that I will start with less power.
Actually I can play with 800VDC and 5Ah but more than 200A DC will not come from this battery pack.
But I think I will start with 200VDC and 600A DC (48S3P)to be sure to provide full amps (600Arms) to the motor later on!
I also now that I will not reach max turns of the motor.
Its also possible that 600ARMS will be too much by causing spinning wheel. Then I have two other options:
1. Shorten the wheel base or
2. reducing the current
But I think it’s better to have full acceleration power, so shorten the wheel base will be more accurate!
Well I really have not so much space for the battery pack, therefore the next steps after having the planned motor and first tests I have to think about another frame size. There I also will have two options:
1. Stretching the actually frame and make some modifications to the fairing and fuel tank cover or
2. building a new frame and thinking about a special front fairing

At the end we will see what future will bring to me and how SD300 will really work!

My plan is to get a "light weight" drag racing bike, not as high weight as Killy Cycle or Silverbullit.
So if you follow electrical drag racing you will know Jeff Disinger, who will operate on 300V and 4000amps (he is working with a special controller company who build his controller). He said he already has tested Zilla2K and therefore decide to go with this company. But he is also using old batteries and used dc wound motors I think.
Also Silverbullit team is working actually on a new chassis wehre two Zilla 2K and up to three motors can be mounted.
They also made me an offer for their especially build motor. The price will be around 4600€ without shipping and you need two of them running with Zilla 2K to get up to 1400Nm, they told me but the max turns end at 4k-to 4,5k rpm and it´s better only drive it on the 1/4 mile. Half mile and standing mile will be a big problem for these motors´. They have seen so many guys with dc wound motors who destroy it about the longer distances.

Also Zilla 2K is only available in the USA and to get it here in Europe you will be around 8000€ at the end.
So the overall weight of such a vehicle will be around 300kg and that´s to heavy for me.
Ok their benefit will be to go into the 6 seconds!
My plan is stay below 200kg and it will be only possible by the used battery pack.
So maybe in future there will be new super capacitors on the market which have more power density than actually LiPo´s. Or there will be LiPo´s which are good enough to hold the power in a 1P version. So if it´s possible to get from 400A DC battery pack 600Arms for a long time I can go 2P with my actually setup of batteries I will stay around 200kg overall weight. But the oldest ones are going now into the 4th year. Therefore I will see it later on how it works.
 
wow this is was a long answer, Thanks for sharing your future plans with us!

Have you thought to install the controller somewhere else to have more space for this powerful battery pack ?
For example if you change cover design maybe it can fit at the top.
Anyway to make any changes you have to know first the dimensions of your final battery pack.
 
Yes at least I think I have to made my own frame.
Cause actually I tried to install it on the top of the frame but the controller is wider than main frame at seat position and also the cabling need some space.
As I said let me start first to get all stuff together and working with things I already own.
And the batterie size, if I go 186S2P, will have the square of controller but 20cm deepness.
That´s I am actually calculating.
And yes the controller should come to the top to get the balance point as deep as possible by mounting the battery pack below.
But I also want to have the cooling for the race or better to say before and after the short race.
So it will be not so easy to handle this stuff because I also like the design of this GSXR but maybe in future I will change my mind and build my own simple front fairing and I wanna go with my extended swingarm an new rear tail. But that´s future stuff!
 
How do you like the setup and configuration of this controller? I'm considering the little brother SD100 for my EKart project after reading about all the issues with the Sevcon controller support.
 
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