Controller for QS205 50H V3 4t

j bjork

100 kW
Joined
Aug 31, 2018
Messages
1,995
Location
Linköping, Sweden
I am trying to narrow down my best options for a controller for a "stelth bomber" build with a QS205 in a 17" motorcycle wheel.
I have looked at several options, but it is a jungle out there..

The nucular 24fet seems real nice. But it seems to be a long wait to get one, and I guess it will be a rather untested design.

Adaptto max-E, seems like some people have problems to get them set properly?

Powervelocity 24fet looks interesting.

Kelly has a lot of controllers.. kls 7230s might be something, but maby too weak? KLS72501-8080H maby would be better, if it fits..

I plan to use 20-24s battery. I hope to get my hands on some electric car batteries, but if it does´nt happen I will probably use rc lipos. I would like to have a display, if it is not included I could use a phone.
It would be nice if it is possible to use pas, for a legal look..

What do you experianced people think?
 
ASI 4000 or the big boy ASI 8000 wold be my first choice. Those two can pump over 700 amps into that motor.

I run a MaxE on my 205 3.5T and it’s the tits! Works incredible but I’m sure the aforementioned ASI 8000 controller could punk my set up.

Tom
 
Thanks, some say the ASI is difficult to set up. But other than that there seem to be no real complaints.

Mobipus, users seem to like them. But it is a bit worrying with this dealer login and factory log in for some settings. Especially when it seems uncertain if they will continue to sell to the public.
 
what is your actual target speed? average and peak i mean.
 
i would start by cranking up the voltage. 30S or more. that means a 120v controller. more volts means less amps between battery and controller and no need for field weakening, that is something that should be avoided.

KLS12301-8080I should be the target. there is no real gain above 300A for the motor. you are just using it as a space heater, blow it up or just spin out with 30kW going into the motor. a 205 limit is around 15kW at best. you need a bigger motor for more amps.

75~85kph requires 4kW or more. that is basically the limit of that motor for sustained speeds. i would get some statorade to improve cooling. or just choose a bigger motor.
 
Higher voltage doesn't mean lower amps without sacrificing acceleration, that is unless you run a smaller wheel.

Torque is torque and rpm is rpm. Just because torque X rpm equals power does not me equal power rides equally. Current means torque, which means acceleration. Voltage means rpm which means speed.

There is somewhat of an exception to the above, but not really. An increase in voltage only will get you some increased acceleration in the mid-range even with current limits held constant. That's because the tapering of the torque curve will be more spread out due to the higher voltage, and in actuality the phase currents in the mid-range speeds will be greater.
 
From what I have read about kelly, they all have speed throttle? And there seem to be a slow start, where you don´t get full power until you get up to some speed. Or is that just on kls-s series?

It would also be very difficult for me to fit a controller over 150mm wide. I did look at the kls 7250h (I think) It was not to wide, and didn´t have wires to the side if I remember correctly.
But I was put off by speed throttle and lag (from what others have said)

I am a little hesitant to go so high in voltage too, for safety reasons. But I guess I can if it comes to that.
What do others use, solenoid breakers that cuts all high voltage?
A separate 12v system to turn it on? (Like in an electric car)

Edit, I can see the point with higher voltage :shock:
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=true&motor=MX4503_SA&batt=cust_126_0.03_25&cont=cust_200_300_0.03_V&hp=0&wheel=20i&cont_b=cust_300_300_0.03_V&motor_b=MX4503_SA&batt_b=cust_84_0.03_25&wheel_b=20i&hp_b=0
 
personally i dont find the slight ramp up a problem, i prefer it actually. it keeps the front down and saves you from wiping out during launch. after 5 meters or so you still get full power so you better have the wheels pointing the in right direction when it really ramps up.
many people here complain about this when using regular e-bikes where this is more of an issue. but with proper scooters/motorbikes that can put down 10+kW during lanuch you need a bit more "soft" response off the line just to keep the scooter/motorbike with both wheels on the ground.

you can use a simple 12v meanwell dc-dc converter that is "always on". you iginition drives 2 relays, one activates the main 12v contactor to the controller and the other one drives a smaller one to turn on all the regluar 12v bike electronics like lights and whatever else.
 
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