Controller suggestions??

Archer321

10 W
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
94
I recently acquired a new brushless motor that I am considering using for a future Electrathon car build.
The vehicle in question would be 3 wheeled and lightweight. Probably about 300lbs with driver.
This motor is only rated at 1400 watts max and is currently sensorless. It is a two stator axial flux Heinzmann PMS 80 motor.
My average power usage would likely be between 700 and 800 watts.
I would like to be able to have a voltage range of 36-60v
I'm looking for recommendations for a controller.
I looked at some RC types and a few e-skateboard ones but I am concerned that they won't hold up long term. I don't need a bunch of options (cruise control, regenerative braking, etc.)
There are lots of controllers out there and I'm not looking to spend a bunch of money, but I'm also not interested in throwing money away on junk.
Anybody got personal experience and could recommend something?
Or tell me what to avoid?
IMG_20190227_180724486_crop_825x864-618x647.jpg
 
Archer321 said:
This motor is only rated at 1400 watts max and is currently sensorless. It is a two stator axial flux Heinzmann PMS 80 motor.
My average power usage would likely be between 700 and 800 amps.

700 to 800 watts?
 
Chalo said:
Archer321 said:
This motor is only rated at 1400 watts max and is currently sensorless. It is a two stator axial flux Heinzmann PMS 80 motor.
My average power usage would likely be between 700 and 800 amps.

700 to 800 watts?
Uhhh...
Yes watts... Sorry.
I have corrected the original post.
Thanks for the heads up.
:oops:
 
3 wheeled vehicles are the worst of all worlds. Same space as a 4 wheeler but terrible handling compromises. Go either 2 or 4 wheels, you will thank me later.
 
flat tire said:
3 wheeled vehicles are the worst of all worlds. Same space as a 4 wheeler but terrible handling compromises. Go either 2 or 4 wheels, you will thank me later.

No I won't.
For Electrathon racing 3 wheels is the only way to go.
Still looking for controller recommendations, not so much chassis design tips.
 
a regular KLS7230N should do fine. but i would recommend using a mounting plate and a 12v fan to activly cool it. that way you dont lose power due to termal issues. due to construction of the kelly with all the mosfets on the bottom makes it easy to cool that way.

edit i just see your motor is sensorless. i would recommend getting one with sensors. that makes controlling it a lot better, especially from dead stops and switching between power and regen.
if you are going to use it as a racecar then i would use regen as much as you can. it recharges the battery and helps you slow down removing load from the brakes. with a proper controller you can regen almost to the point of locking the tire.
 
I'd suggest one of the PowerVelocity controllers. Their 12 FET version would be plenty for that power level. I run one at over 2kW.
Sine wave output will be efficient and it is easily programmable. Maybe more features than you need, but price is reasonable. I don't have the Bluetooth on mine and just use a cheap programming cable and a laptop to make changes.
 
Thanks for the controller suggestions.
I'll check them out.
Yeah this motor is sensorless but it was CHEAP.
I couldn't pass it up at that price.
Fortunately in Electrathon racing, we don't do starts and stops much so I don't bother with regen.
In fact, if I have to use my brakes more than twice in a race something is wrong.
A typical race is 1 hr of pretty consistent speed so I don't expect the fact that it's sensorless to be much of an issue.
I just have to select the right controller.
 
So I looked on Powervelocity's website but couldn't find anything I felt wasn't overkill for such a small motor as this. Then I stumbled across this thread https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=89673&start=25 from last year. That controller sounds pretty ideal but I'm confused as to why I can't find it on their site. I contacted them through the website but have yet to hear anything back.
 
I agree the 6F version would be more than enough for your needs. But if the 12F is the only one available, having excess capacity won't hurt anything, other than your wallet. You can program the current limit as low as you want.
 
rayadientes said:
Looks difficult to install---

It shouldn't be too bad, I'll just make up a mounting plate to hold it by the four threaded holes on the front.

I'm following up on the Powervelocity 2kw controller, but I'm still open to other suggestions.
 
So I went with a Powervelocity 12f controller without the Bluetooth option based on earlier suggestions.
Now to make it work...
What is the bare minimum to run a sensorless motor with this controller?
No wiring diagram came with the controller which is disappointing.
So I assume the large red and black wires are main power and ground.
I also assume the blue, green, and yellow large  wires are the motor phases.
I expect the two wires in the two-pin connector labeled "ignition" have to be connected to each other to turn the controller on.
Are the red, green, and black wires labelled "throttle" intended for a potentiometer type throttle?  With the red as voltage, black as ground, and green as signal? 5k potentiometer perhaps?
I tried connecting all the previously mentioned wires in the manner also previously mentioned but nothing happens.
What am I missing?
I have emailed Powervelocity directly but as I have a rather short time to get this up and running I'm also asking on here in hopes that it saves some time.
Thanks.
 
Throttle wires will be +5V (red), GND (black), and sense/wipe (green). It will probably work with either a pot throttle or a Hall throttle. If it's a conspicuously Chinese controller, start with a Hall throttle.
 
Archer321 said:
So I went with a Powervelocity 12f controller without the Bluetooth option based on earlier suggestions.
Now to make it work...
What is the bare minimum to run a sensorless motor with this controller?
No wiring diagram came with the controller which is disappointing.
The diagram is posted on his web site:



I have the same controller on my A2B only mine does not have the sensorless feature. The throttle is a standard hall effect type. Signal line is the green wire. You can permanently connect the wires for the 3 position switch or leave them disconnected for speed 2. The settings for each speed can be adjusted in software. The cruise and reverse can be left disconnected.

If you don't have the bluetooth like me, you should get the USB programming interface and download the programming software. It's a little user unfriendly, but typical for all programmable controllers.
 
I have ordered a hall throttle and a programming cable, now where do I find the software download?
I didn't see it on the Powervelocity website.
 
I took a look and didn't see it either. Best to contact him and make sure you get the most recent version. If all else fails, I can find my copy somewhere.
 
The PV app only works with the PowerVelocity Bluetooth module.

  • If you are using an iPhone, it will be on the Apple app store. (see: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/powervelocity/id1220201461?mt=8)
  • If you are using an Android, it will be on the Android app store.

M
 
If you don't use the Bluetooth dongle, you can plug a TTL-232 cable to the plug and there is PC software you run on a laptop that allows programming. It's been a long time since I did it, but I see the files here on my computer.
 
Well I tried a hall throttle and still got nothing.
My CycleAnalyst powers up when I switch on the ignition, but that's all that happens.
I guess I'll have to take a look at the programming when my cable gets here later today. Maybe he left in in sensored mode or something.

I asked Powervelocity about getting the programming software but haven't heard back.
Can anyone else hook me up?
 
Archer321 said:
Well I tried a hall throttle and still got nothing.
My CycleAnalyst powers up when I switch on the ignition, but that's all that happens.

What wiring have you made to the PV controller?
Can you list everything you have done and note which connectors you used?
Hard to assist when we are sitting here blind.

M
 
I have the large red wire as main power, and the large black as ground.
The large yellow, green, and blue wires are connected to field windings on my motor.
The little two wire connector labeled "ignition" I have a toggle switch on that connects the two wires together.
The throttle is a direct plug in as is the CycleAnalyst.
I have tried both 36v and 48v battery packs.
 
Archer321 said:
I have the large red wire as main power, and the large black as ground.
The large yellow, green, and blue wires are connected to field windings on my motor.
The little two wire connector labeled "ignition" I have a toggle switch on that connects the two wires together.
The throttle is a direct plug in as is the CycleAnalyst.
I have tried both 36v and 48v battery packs.

N.B. The orange "ignition" pin (to power the MCU) must be wired to a (switched) power source that matches the battery voltage.

Also, Which brand of motor are you using?

M

P.S. this is how I wired up my PowerVelocity controller.
Notice how I had to swap the green/blue Phase & Halls because it is a QS Motor):


NESE Modules 20p pack.v7d.1680.jpg
 
Back
Top