Controller sparks on connection..

Hello!

So im trying to get my motor to work with my controller and this have been kind of a struggle. First of, the instructions are super minimal and half chinese so I have very little to work with. I connected everything that maked sense to me. But when I connect the battery it sparks. (only 1 time, untill u wait a bit and try again) for me this seems horrible like something is terribly wrong but someone told me this is the capistors charging? After it sparked it does nothing like its disconnected. No movement, no 5V into the throttle.


this is what im working with.

Ive gone through all the wires.

power lock - ??
low level brake - braking
cruise - ??
high level brake - also braking (?)
throttle - makes sense and its connected
hall - connected motor hall by colors
reverse - speaks for itself
anti theft - powered on makes the wheel not be able to move.
[no text] - ??
high / low speed - different power options
self study - ?? (something to do with hall sensors)
display - i dont have a display
motor phase - Connected to motor colors
battery - - connected to battery ground
battery + - connected to battery positive

Ive recorded the sparking aswell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjKPpxOqA_g&

I hope someone has experience deciphering chinese controllers
Thanks for reading

The spark is from the inrush current into the capacitors. It's normal.

"Power lock" is the system enable wire. Connect or switch it to the positive power terminal. Self-study mode is only for initial setup; after the motor operates smoothly and quietly in the correct direction, disconnect it.

thanks for the quick answer! connecting the power lock system did the trick. The motor is going backwards full speed when i connect it but i suppose i can fix that will the reverse and the hall cables.

damnub said:

thanks for the quick answer! connecting the power lock system did the trick. The motor is going backwards full speed when i connect it but i suppose i can fix that will the reverse and the hall cables.

Click to expand...

Look up a guide on self-study mode. That will probably get you what you need without changing wire assignments.

http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373

damnub said:

thanks for the quick answer! connecting the power lock system did the trick. The motor is going backwards full speed when i connect it but i suppose i can fix that will the reverse and the hall cables.

Click to expand...

If it is a car you are working on,you can also fix the backward motion by swapping the left and right wheels. We had a similar problem with our electric car and we solved it by swapping.

Hello Everyone!

Controller spark on the B+ and B- terminals of my QSKEB72801 controller.
After connecting the QSKEB72801 controller to my 3Kw electric motor it sparked. Ever since the spark the controller has been giving low voltage error signal 1,3 (low voltage signal).

I am supplying 72V through (1PWR & 2RTN) which is fairly high, simultaneous I am supplying the same (72V) volts via the B+ and B- terminals. I discharged the controller, measured the resistance between B+ and B- terminals and found it to be 0.5Ω. Ever since the spark, when the controller is connected the voltage reading between the B+ and B- terminals is 0V. I am told that the Mosfets between B+ and B- are all damaged. I am not sure about this...

Is my controller damaged? Is there a fix to make sure voltage starts flowing via B+ and B- terminals? Someone help!!!!

Controller specifications
Serial# 1703-16059263
Part# QSKEB72801

Zedlee said:

Is my controller damaged? Is there a fix to make sure voltage starts flowing via B+ and B- terminals? Someone help!!!!

Controller specifications
Serial# 1703-16059263
Part# QSKEB72801

Click to expand...

If you see a steady .5 ohms, it's a bad sign. With a good controller, the ohm reading should be rising when you first hook up the meter (as the capacitors charge).

One test is to disconnect the controller and measure ohms between the B+ wire and each motor phase wire (the fat ones). Repeat test using the B- wire. Swap the meter probes and repeat test. A good controller will measure like a diode between the power wires and the phase wires. If you see any that are near zero ohms in both directions, it means the FET shorted.

Thank you for the immediate reply. Lets say the FET shorted, is the a fix?

Zedlee said:

Thank you for the immediate reply. Lets say the FET shorted, is the a fix?

Click to expand...

The fix is to desolder the failed part and solder in a replacement.